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Posted: 8/4/2021 3:44:39 AM EDT
[#1]
I compared fired shells to light-striked rounds, and let me tell you, some of those fired rounds were lighter hit than the unfired rounds. I was noticed a lot of fired rounds that were inflated near the end of the round, like they were being shot while they were still a millimeter not seated in the barrel, but I definitely checked my dead zone and it still fit the criteria of folded piece of paper. My feeler gauges came in today, but USPS bent the hell out of them so I need to deal with that before I can use them.
I'm kinda thinking my CMMG sear trip my be causing issues, as two of the corners are super bent up, and I feel like they might be getting caught on the receiver every once in a while, causing the reset bar to be tripped earlier than it should be sometimes, like it got caught on something. I might order a few more just so I'm at square 0, since I'll have feeler gauges to get it perfect. Other than that, I know someone said something about a lighter hammer spring, but I have no idea where to find one, as the hammer springs FRT uses is quite specific. If someone posts a link, I'll get it. I'm honestly out of things to try, I hate that this thing works sometimes but not consistently, and I plan on putting a suppressor on it since I've gotten the form 1 approved, and I already know I'll have to go back to the drawing board for running sub rounds. I really think my issue is coming down to timing, but I don't know how that could be given that the sear trip is timed well enough. I've also noticed that the reset bar spring on the FRT 15 is starting to look a little crimped, like I can push it around and it seems 100% fine, but I can definitely see where the spring is compressed in one loop. Guess I'm getting another spring while I'm at it. I would also love to find an upgraded trigger spring, the fat small one that sits under the trigger, as I think that would help with the ghost trigger pulls. |
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Posted: 8/5/2021 5:38:10 PM EDT
[#2]
OP here, I still haven't been able to make it reliable. As I stated earlier, it functions great with 9mm uppers and 5.56 uppers.
I was able to get BHO working on the Better Mag adapter, just had to remove it and file a rough spot off the BHO. Eventually I'll pick it up and start trying to get it going again with 22LR. One thought is to purchase a 9" to 16" CMMG barrel, because my 4.5" is a Taccom3g which uses a different collar with the CMMG bolt assembly to engage the barrel, not to mention a longer barrel might run better. Unfortunately, I have only found 20" CMMG 22LR barrels in stock. I have also thought about picking up some CMMG or BD mags to try running it without the Better Mag adapter. I have considered trying to tune it for lower powered ammo, maybe Tac22, which I have a lot of. To others who are experimenting with FRT & 22LR, please keep posting your experiences. Edited to add: When it fails, I nearly always pop up open the upper, cock the hammer, and slightly pull the bolt back to verify a round is chambered, which it always it. About 50% of the time, the round in chamber and extractor are not engaged, i.e., the round remains in chamber as I ease the bolt back. I always resolve the issue by removing mag, pulling bolt back fully, and then letting it slam onto round in chamber. |
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Posted: 8/5/2021 8:03:58 PM EDT
[#3]
I have also considered installing a red trigger disconnect spring that will take it from 3.5 lb to 5 lb trigger pull, because sometimes I wonder if I'm pulling too hard on the trigger and causing issues with the RFT.
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Posted: 8/5/2021 11:45:49 PM EDT
[#4]
It's just come to my mind that dry firing a 22lr is bad for the firing pin, and I can't believe I didn't realize that just because its a conversion doesn't mean it's immune to dry firing, so I'm ordering another taccom fp and I'll file the one I'm using right now to be sharper or something.
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Posted: 8/6/2021 12:56:00 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's just come to my mind that dry firing a 22lr is bad for the firing pin, and I can't believe I didn't realize that just because its a conversion doesn't mean it's immune to dry firing, so I'm ordering another taccom fp and I'll file the one I'm using right now to be sharper or something. I unfortunately learned that the hard way after damaging the tip of my Taccom firing pin from all the testing I did with different bolt weights, springs, mags, etc. and didn't realize that until after my .22 FRT setup started having more and more light primer strikes. If the last round bolt hold open fails to engage after firing the last round in the mag then that will cause a dry fire with the FRT unless you're able to pull off singles. Also, if anyone's using the Black Dog drum mag which lacks a bolt hold open feature then that will also cause dry fire damage as well unless you load a dummy round as the last round. |
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Posted: 8/6/2021 12:57:52 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's just come to my mind that dry firing a 22lr is bad for the firing pin, and I can't believe I didn't realize that just because its a conversion doesn't mean it's immune to dry firing, so I'm ordering another taccom fp and I'll file the one I'm using right now to be sharper or something. Also, you switched back to the FRT's original hammer spring right? Because the POF one will definitely cause more dry fire damage and make it even harder to reset the hammer properly. |
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Posted: 8/6/2021 10:29:39 PM EDT
[#7]
I used the POF hammer for around 150 rounds with various weight configs before deciding it was not working better, and decided to switch back to the stock spring. I've just had some better trigger springs and reset bar springs arrive from McMaster, and right now, that issue I described with pressure on the trigger causing a fire on close is no longer happening, so maybe I'll get some better results.
Also, I did make sure that the POF spring was being locked back, and it didn't seem to have any trouble cycling rounds, it still ended up coming down to light primer strikes. Even with all tungsten, thunderbolts would still full reset the hammer, but I felt like the bursts I was getting was way more inconsistent. |
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Posted: 8/8/2021 3:09:28 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I used the POF hammer for around 150 rounds with various weight configs before deciding it was not working better, and decided to switch back to the stock spring. I've just had some better trigger springs and reset bar springs arrive from McMaster, and right now, that issue I described with pressure on the trigger causing a fire on close is no longer happening, so maybe I'll get some better results. Also, I did make sure that the POF spring was being locked back, and it didn't seem to have any trouble cycling rounds, it still ended up coming down to light primer strikes. Even with all tungsten, thunderbolts would still full reset the hammer, but I felt like the bursts I was getting was way more inconsistent. I suggest getting Taccom's firing pin since it's slightly longer to account for the light primer strikes and has a lighter firing pin spring. Have you checked out my advice on timing earlier in this thread for the conversion kit? When I got mine to work the CMMG sear trip tab was bent so the trigger can be pulled (but barely) with the bolt held opened with a 0.015" gap, but the hammer won't release with a 0.020" gap. Try using some pieces of 0.005" shim stock or ideally feeler gauges to see if you can get the timing closer to that. Also, check out the spreadsheet I linked earlier that shows the weights used on successful builds, which my research shows shorter barrels tend to work better with lighter weights so you might want to try that. |
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Posted: 8/9/2021 9:11:20 AM EDT
[#9]
Has anyone tried the Armamentusa upgrade ?
I’m at the same place 3-5 round consistent, light primer strike that doesn’t look so light but the round will fire after reload. I have also had a light primer on the first round. I did notice when it stops shooting I am unable to put it on safe which is a indication it is not reset. I have the timing set and my sear tab is reinforced to not flex. Just in case this was an issue. Fostech spring, Taccom firing pin, 16” dedicated, all tungsten weights, black dog mags and it holds on last round. |
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Posted: 8/9/2021 10:57:43 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Has anyone tried the Armamentusa upgrade ? I’m at the same place 3-5 round consistent, light primer strike that doesn’t look so light but the round will fire after reload. I have also had a light primer on the first round. I did notice when it stops shooting I am unable to put it on safe which is a indication it is not reset. I have the timing set and my sear tab is reinforced to not flex. Just in case this was an issue. Fostech spring, Taccom firing pin, 16” dedicated, all tungsten weights, black dog mags and it holds on last round. Sounds like you're getting hammer follow which I'd suspect the Armamentusa upgrades may help with that, though unfortunately I'm not aware of any .22 FRT users that have this upgrade yet. I'd love to get it done myself but hate the thought of parting with my FRT even if it's just for 1-2 weeks lol so I'm also hoping to see if any other .22 FRT users have had success with this upgrade as I'm starting to get light primer strikes even on the first round (happens more often than not now), and this is after I replaced my firing pin and with running all of the exact same parts I used when I did have it running successfully. Not sure why my reliability went to crap out of the blue :'( |
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Posted: 8/9/2021 12:28:04 PM EDT
[#11]
I spoke to Nick yesterday, he said he thinks few 22lr users have the upgrade and it works successfully. But that doesn’t mean it will work in mine. He stated it will put extra force on the carrier which makes its own issues. This is by far my most expensive build. I’d hate to do the mod and it not work. Then it’s back to the drawing board.
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Posted: 8/10/2021 1:26:22 AM EDT
[#12]
Just got back from a range, it's still running terribly, I got some CCI stingers, as far as I know it doesn't really get better for 22lr than stingers, and they didn't solve the issue, at all. Upon doing cleaning, I've discovered that my FRT 15 isn't even operating correctly anymore; the hammer will still fire if you pull back the trigger with maybe 8 lbs of force. Like, when the upper isn't even on the lower, so nothing is pushing the trigger reset bar forward, which means it should practically be on safe. So that means timing doesn't even matter if it'll shoot no matter what when I hold down the trigger, I'm starting to hope my trouble was just a defective FRT from the get go. I've emailed rare breeds customer support, but they immediately replied with a "limited email access soon" and just linked to the basic troubleshooting and installation videos, so I don't except an email any time soon, and they even state on the website repairs are on a 4-6 week wait, I'm starting to think the FRT is a poorly executed product that they tried to create as fast as possible so that nobody else could, and has a lot of room for improvement. My dad came down this weekend and brought his 300 blk ar pistol with an echo sport trigger, and while we were at the range we swapped lowers, and with all the exact configs I've been trying to get working on the FRT, it worked perfectly with the echo. I ran a whole 50 round drum mag at a fast speed, not as fast as hypothetically working FRT or full auto, but fast enough to scratch the itch I've had since I've bought this dumb trigger system. From thunderbolts, stingers, and blazers, not a single light primer strike, just a few fail to feeds. I'm thinking about getting an echo sport for my 300 blk rifle, and whenever I feel like it I can swap lowers to waste 22lr at light speed, but that feels the same as giving up, and I'm not doing that yet.
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Posted: 8/10/2021 1:27:54 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Has anyone tried the Armamentusa upgrade ? I’m at the same place 3-5 round consistent, light primer strike that doesn’t look so light but the round will fire after reload. I have also had a light primer on the first round. I did notice when it stops shooting I am unable to put it on safe which is a indication it is not reset. I have the timing set and my sear tab is reinforced to not flex. Just in case this was an issue. Fostech spring, Taccom firing pin, 16” dedicated, all tungsten weights, black dog mags and it holds on last round. The spring loaded one looks really interesting. I guess the point is so that there is extra height on the trigger, forcing the hammer to push it down further to improve the odds of it resetting the hammer correctly? I guess that would be a problem if you were getting hammer follow, but you could test it with a 1 round mag and a mag that will hold the bolt open on empty, so that when you take the mag out and the bolt closes the rest of the way, if you can switch it to safe, that means the hammer didn't follow through and correctly reset, and you wouldn't need a mod like that. Like you said, a perm mod like that is a little scary, if rare breed sold the trigger part by itself and if armament had more detailed videos on installing, I'd give a crack at it. |
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Posted: 8/10/2021 9:45:40 AM EDT
[#14]
I already pulled the trigger out and packed it up. I didn’t purchase the upgrade yet. I’m assuming I could remove the mod and plug the hole with a set screw if it didn’t work. Seems like all of us with the 22lr set up is missing 1 piece to the puzzle. I don’t want to give up yet. But I’m almost ready to start using the FRT on other calibers I have.
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Posted: 8/10/2021 11:54:33 AM EDT
[#15]
I have made a mod for my Rarebreed that implements an adjustable locking bar. I'm pretty confident it will help with hammer follow issues and be better for a 22lr. I'm not sure how durable the mod will be against 5.56 though
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Posted: 8/10/2021 2:37:38 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have made a mod for my Rarebreed that implements an adjustable locking bar. I'm pretty confident it will help with hammer follow issues and be better for a 22lr. I'm not sure how durable the mod will be against 5.56 though Any pics or details? I do plan on using this lower with multiple calibers. |
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Posted: 8/11/2021 4:27:39 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any pics or details? I do plan on using this lower with multiple calibers. I posted this in the main thread. It works with 5.56 without shifting or breakage. I'm assuming it should be g2g with 22lr. The higher rated hammer spring won't work though, but the timing adjustments will. 
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Posted: 8/11/2021 7:01:36 PM EDT
[#18]
Just curious, how does the mod mess with the bar? Does it let you tighten or loosen to make it easier or harder to push the trigger reset bar back, or does it allow you to slide the pivot point of the bar so you can fine tune how much it needs to be pushed before it starts working? Very interesting indeed, but it looks like you would need some lower modification to get it to fit
 https://youtube.com/shorts/tiBI4bZ3VhE?feature=share Video about the frt firing when the bar isnt being held forward, for anyone interested. Rare breed support emailed back seeming like they wanted to help me get this mess sorted out, so I'm staying hopeful. |
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Posted: 8/11/2021 7:23:58 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just curious, how does the mod mess with the bar? Does it let you tighten or loosen to make it easier or harder to push the trigger reset bar back, or does it allow you to slide the pivot point of the bar so you can fine tune how much it needs to be pushed before it starts working? Very interesting indeed, but it looks like you would need some lower modification to get it to fit https://youtube.com/shorts/tiBI4bZ3VhE?feature=share Video about the frt firing when the bar isnt being held forward, for anyone interested. Rare breed support emailed back seeming like they wanted to help me get this mess sorted out, so I'm staying hopeful. It will not be any more difficult to push back. I implemented a pin in the front so the aluminum doesn't bend and the locking bar doesn't bind on the sides as a result. The locking bar doesn't need to be modified, but I had to modify the cassette. Essentially the way it works is the pivot pin can be moved up, down, forward, or back to fine tune timing, which makes it free floating in a sense. This would only work if the trigger pocket is milled all the way back in the lower around the safety. My Anderson lower doesn't have this and wouldn't be compatible but all my other lowers will work no problem. I think most billet lowers will be no problem. This particular mod has my POF Rebel spring upgrade (not for 22lr), return spring upgrade, and my V2 bolt catch/spring upgrade. |
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Posted: 8/12/2021 4:41:36 PM EDT
[#20]
Update - customer support got back with me and upon showing them that video, have offered to replace the product if I ship it back to them. Here's hoping a new working frt will solve my timing issues and light primer strikes.
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Posted: 9/21/2021 8:58:43 AM EDT
[#21]
Hey guys, I finally got mine working.
Like everyone else, I was getting LPS. Firing just a single round was 50/50. POF spring actually made things worse. Was ready to sell everything and start looking at registered lower receivers.  While it was apart I noticed that, when the hammer is released, it was resting on the bolt catch. Other triggers have a larger relief cut that makes it rest on the receiver. This shouldn't matter with a standard 5.56 BCG (and my other FRT confirms that), but with the CMMG 22lr BCG... Fuck it, out comes the dremel... Figured modifying the milspec bolt catch would be better than part of a $400 device. Instant improvement! After messing with the weights, I found a decent combo in the list below. Only stoppages I had were stovepipes (about once per magazine) that I think I can eliminate by fine tuning the Borebuddy weights and/or a Catch22 mag well clip.  Attached File Attached FileConfiguration: FRT trigger with stock hammer spring and McMaster-Car spring Dedicated CMMG 22LR BCG and 4.5" barrel Dead Air Mask Suppressor Better Mag Adapter Borebuddy: 2 small steel, 1 large steel, 1 large aluminum (still dialing it in though.) Standard carbine buffer spring and buffer. NOT using Borebuddy buffer NOT using pressure plug in tube Federal bulk pack ammo I have the Catch22 clip on the way. I noticed that there is a little wiggle room on the magazine remaining with just the BMA. Going to use both to make the mag retention rock solid and perhaps eliminate any stovepiping. |
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Posted: 9/22/2021 10:45:09 AM EDT
[#22]
Wow, great to hear that was a success in your case! I had mine running previously which is very similar to your build except I do have a pressure plug, all stainless steel weights, and Echo's recoil spring, but after I had thought I figured it out and had it running successfully it randomly started having light strikes out of the blue again.
I also suspected the bolt catch was interfering with the hammer's full range of motion and removed the bolt catch, but it didn't seem to help when I tested it at the range so I reinstalled the bolt catch (though I still filed off a bit of material off the bolt catch just in case, but not nearly as much as you did, so thanks to your post I will revisit that and see if filing it more helps along with tweaking the timing). But do you have an aftermarket extractor? I think that should help with the stove pipes which the Bore Buddy Extractor with 200% extractor spring is what I'm using now since I suspect the 500% spring has enough resistance to prevent the bolt from fully closing before the hammer drops. Also, does your bolt catch still retain its full function? What about with 5.56/centerfire uppers assuming you swap uppers? Thanks for the info! |
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Posted: 9/22/2021 11:14:31 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wow, great to hear that was a success in your case! I had mine running previously which is very similar to your build except I do have a pressure plug, all stainless steel weights, and Echo's recoil spring, but after I had thought I figured it out and had it running successfully it randomly started having light strikes out of the blue again. I also suspected the bolt catch was interfering with the hammer's full range of motion and removed the bolt catch, but it didn't seem to help when I tested it at the range so I reinstalled the bolt catch (though I still filed off a bit of material off the bolt catch just in case, but not nearly as much as you did, so thanks to your post I will revisit that and see if filing it more helps along with tweaking the timing). But do you have an aftermarket extractor? I think that should help with the stove pipes which the Bore Buddy Extractor with 200% extractor spring is what I'm using now since I suspect the 500% spring has enough resistance to prevent the bolt from fully closing before the hammer drops. Also, does your bolt catch still retain its full function? What about with 5.56/centerfire uppers assuming you swap uppers? Thanks for the info! You may want to remove the pressure plug. I think my BCG is seated forward enough to where I didn't have to mess with the sear trip, but also forward enough to where the hammer can't quite get a full strike on the firing pin. The plug exacerbates that forward seating. I do have a Taccom extractor. It's also possible that things were getting pretty dirty by the time I started figuring it out the weights. The bolt catch retains full function. You may notice that I had to dremel the BMA catch to properly get that working with my particular BCG. Also had to file down the BMA itself so as to not interfere with the front of the sear trip. This is a dedicated build. I have another FRT in a 5.56 lower and yet another in a future 9mm Banshee build. 
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Posted: 9/22/2021 11:28:36 AM EDT
[#24]
"Today I'm trying to get it working with 22 upper, but having hammer follow issues,"
I would think the forced reset is robing to much of the blow back force. Preventing enough rearward movement to catch the hammer reset. ETA Or is there not any additional mechanical actions during the rearward movement? Quoted: Does anybody know how to properly tune BoreBuddy Weights to work with a Rare Breed FRT-15 in a dedicated 22LR AR? Yesterday I function tested the lower with forced reset trigger using 5.56 and 9mm uppers. The trigger is fun. Today I'm trying to get it working with 22 upper, but having hammer follow issues, which I contribute to bolt bounce. I am seeing FP mark on unfired rounds. Registered SBR; PSA Lower, H3 Buffer, standard carbine spring; Taccom3g pressure plug; Redi-Mag Better Mag adapter; Rainer Arms 22 upper, Taccom3g barrel, Taccom3g barrel collar, CMMG Dedicated Bolt Assembly, CMMG Sear Trip; BoreBuddy Bolt Weight. The 22LR barrel is 4.5", and running a SilencerCo Sparrow. Without BB Bolt Weight, one round would fire, eject, and new round would load. Dead trigger, safety could not be rotated, meaning hammer was not cocked. This continued with BB Bolt Weight housing installed with no weights, and continued with aluminum weights installed in BB. Started getting occasional bursts after swapping out one small aluminum with small stainless weights, but most of the time it was single shot with hammer resting on fresh round. Got a little better after swapping out one large aluminum weights with stainless weight. Will try swapping the remaining small aluminum rod with a small stainless weight, and will continue playing with the weights as needed, to include working into the tungsten weights that came with the BB Bolt Weight set. At the moment I'm running the lower without Redi-Mag Better Mag adapter to insure it isn't interfering with anything. Ammo is loading and ejecting properly. Not having any FTF, or FTE. I'll report back what I learn, and I'm hopeful others who are getting these forced reset triggers to work in dedicated 22LR AR will share their experiences. Using CCI Mini Mags, but I did briefly try CCI Standard, Stingers, and Federal bulk box. |
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Posted: 9/22/2021 9:22:58 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have also considered installing a red trigger disconnect spring that will take it from 3.5 lb to 5 lb trigger pull, because sometimes I wonder if I'm pulling too hard on the trigger and causing issues with the RFT. I did increase trigger disconnect spring by placing a milspec spring inside factory FRT spring. It didn't help. I took pictures of the trigger assembly disassembled, but I can't figure out how to attach a picture, and I do not have a link to them. BTW, I'm very intrigued by recent bolt catch discussion. |
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Posted: 9/23/2021 10:59:48 AM EDT
[#26]
I use https://imgur.com/upload to upload photos so you can paste the link to them here, but for some reason it only works on a computer unless you enable "Desktop Site" in your browser.
But I use the mil-spec disconnector spring placed inside the FRT trigger spring and it helps pull off singles. |
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Posted: 11/29/2021 10:58:16 PM EDT
[#27]
Bore Buddy has released a 'lightweight' system, using an aluminum Bore Buddy. It uses the same weights. Two other people on the net are having success using this 'lightweight' bore buddy with half steel & half tungsten weights installed, shooting CCI Standard. CMMG trip is bent to not allow firing > 0.005. Ordered the lightweight bore buddy yesterday.
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Posted: 12/6/2021 11:57:40 PM EDT
[#28]
Aside from a lot of break-in, my 10.5" 5.56 barreled upper running a CMMG conversion wanted one each carbide and aluminum weights. Nothing else changed. The biggest issue is timing the auto sear trip. Rather than bending mine, I welded onto it and filed it down until it would not fire until the bolt had less than a .030 gap. Then I took off just a little more. At this point, I'm getting far more successful mag dumps than I am full mags with even a single issue.
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Posted: 12/9/2021 9:19:29 AM EDT
[#29]
Still trying random samplings of ammo to see what it will and will not run. So far, absolutely will not run Federal auto match, loves CCi Blazers and 40gr standard velocity. Obviously, 40gr minimags are also 100%. Winchester super X would be fine if they would all fire. Out of 900 rounds at least 20 would not fire at all. Pulled about a half dozen of hem apart. Either the priming compound was not in the Rim at all, or the firing pin knocked it loose instead of setting it off. All of them had chunks of priming compound loose and mixed in the powder.
Broke the screws on the borebuddy weight kit and snapped the auto sear trip. Luckily I can weld and the borebuddy comes with a spare set of screws.  Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 1/4/2022 9:16:32 AM EDT
[#30]
@tripntx
Any updates? My suppressed taccom3g 4.5" is having the same issues. I'm currently leaning towards the bolt not coming far enough back to fully reset the hammer. I get a few 3-5 bursts every once in a while if the CMMG weight is out, but add the weight and it's single shot only with a dead trigger. I'm wondering if a reduced power recoil spring mat help. |
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Posted: 1/19/2022 1:45:48 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Bore Buddy has released a 'lightweight' system, using an aluminum Bore Buddy. It uses the same weights. Two other people on the net are having success using this 'lightweight' bore buddy with half steel & half tungsten weights installed, shooting CCI Standard. Where can I read more about the success of the “lightweight” bore buddy? Is there a consensus on which one to get? Anyone have any updates with their FRT in .22? |
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Posted: 1/19/2022 4:27:15 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @tripntx Any updates? My suppressed taccom3g 4.5" is having the same issues. I'm currently leaning towards the bolt not coming far enough back to fully reset the hammer. I get a few 3-5 bursts every once in a while if the CMMG weight is out, but add the weight and it's single shot only with a dead trigger. I'm wondering if a reduced power recoil spring mat help. Quote HistoryQuoted: @tripntx Any updates? My suppressed taccom3g 4.5" is having the same issues. I'm currently leaning towards the bolt not coming far enough back to fully reset the hammer. I get a few 3-5 bursts every once in a while if the CMMG weight is out, but add the weight and it's single shot only with a dead trigger. I'm wondering if a reduced power recoil spring mat help. Quoted: Where can I read more about the success of the “lightweight” bore buddy? Is there a consensus on which one to get? Anyone have any updates with their FRT in .22? This is still a work-in-progress, but it should get you running to at least 90%-95% reliability: *EDITED 1/24/22* I finally reached >99% reliability and updated my guide to reflect my recent developments, so now it should have all the info needed to get most people up and running successfully. The links below will stay the same for any future updates. .22 FRT How-To Guide: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B9GTcz62RdCUDDWGrOekxLUfZ5SGsqZL/view?usp=sharing Successful .22 Build Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18LoQ3-tV3gtSNURjyPtqmbc3S23pfA5PSwMuz3ByWEk/edit?usp=sharing Original Source: https://www.facebook.com/groups/846909159411487/posts/976930253076043/ |
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Posted: 2/8/2022 6:43:54 PM EDT
[#33]
Ordered the bore buddy trip kit and currently on the hunt for an FRT. Running a CMMG conversion kit in a 16" upper. I read through the PDF guide, seems pretty easy with a lot of trial and error. Any tips? I haven't picked up the weight kit, buffer plug, or the firing pin from BoreBuddy yet but im considering it.
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Posted: 2/9/2022 11:49:36 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ordered the bore buddy trip kit and currently on the hunt for an FRT. Running a CMMG conversion kit in a 16" upper. I read through the PDF guide, seems pretty easy with a lot of trial and error. Any tips? I haven't picked up the weight kit, buffer plug, or the firing pin from BoreBuddy yet but im considering it. My guide is fairly thorough and should cover all of the key points, just be sure to read everything since a lot of it is build-specific troubleshooting, but other than the bore buddy adjustable sear trip at minimum you'll need a bore buddy bolt weight (get the heavier stainless steel body for 16" barrels and start with all tungsten weights first) and a bore buddy pressure plug. You'll also need some feeler gauges to get the timing on the sear trip adjusted properly. Beyond that, anything else you'll need will depend on your your specific build along with some trial and error. Also, FYI rare breed is releasing a 3 position FRT soon might want to consider waiting for that to be released. |
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Posted: 2/9/2022 3:31:36 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My guide is fairly thorough and should cover all of the key points, just be sure to read everything since a lot of it is build-specific troubleshooting, but other than the bore buddy adjustable sear trip at minimum you'll need a bore buddy bolt weight (get the heavier stainless steel body for 16" barrels and start with all tungsten weights first) and a bore buddy pressure plug. You'll also need some feeler gauges to get the timing on the sear trip adjusted properly. Beyond that, anything else you'll need will depend on your your specific build along with some trial and error. Also, FYI rare breed is releasing a 3 position FRT soon might want to consider waiting for that to be released. Got all that stuff in my cart, outside of the sear trip kit which I already ordered. I saw in your guide, you talked about the premium firing pin. Do you think its necessary? I've got feeler gauges on hand too so thats covered. I thought about waiting for that trigger but I saw somebody over on reddit say their 3 position didnt work at all whereas their original one ran perfectly. Also, the 3 positions are gonna be $500-$600 which is seems a little pricey for blowing through cheap ammo. Im hoping to grab a used FRT for cheap when people want to offload them to get the new one. |
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Posted: 2/9/2022 3:48:26 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My guide is fairly thorough and should cover all of the key points, just be sure to read everything since a lot of it is build-specific troubleshooting, but other than the bore buddy adjustable sear trip at minimum you'll need a bore buddy bolt weight (get the heavier stainless steel body for 16" barrels and start with all tungsten weights first) and a bore buddy pressure plug. You'll also need some feeler gauges to get the timing on the sear trip adjusted properly. Beyond that, anything else you'll need will depend on your your specific build along with some trial and error. Also, FYI rare breed is releasing a 3 position FRT soon might want to consider waiting for that to be released. Also, I see in your spreadsheet of what people are using, the top row that is a 16" barrel with a conversion kit is using the BoreBuddy recoil springs. But he's also using a suppressor. I won't be using a suppressor so do you think the stock spring in the conversion will suffice? |
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Posted: 2/10/2022 3:43:35 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Got all that stuff in my cart, outside of the sear trip kit which I already ordered. I saw in your guide, you talked about the premium firing pin. Do you think its necessary? I've got feeler gauges on hand too so thats covered. I thought about waiting for that trigger but I saw somebody over on reddit say their 3 position didnt work at all whereas their original one ran perfectly. Also, the 3 positions are gonna be $500-$600 which is seems a little pricey for blowing through cheap ammo. Im hoping to grab a used FRT for cheap when people want to offload them to get the new one. You might as well get the bore buddy firing pin (it's a gamble if one of them will work better but the round tip is the standard design so might as try that first) since it should last longer than the CMMG one, but really when it comes to parts it will require some experimentation and trial and error to see what works and what doesn't since it seems different things work for different users. The Rare Breed 3 position isn't released yet and the price is still unknown so that person on reddit is likely referring to the tommy triggers one. |
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Posted: 2/10/2022 3:44:07 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Also, I see in your spreadsheet of what people are using, the top row that is a 16" barrel with a conversion kit is using the BoreBuddy recoil springs. But he's also using a suppressor. I won't be using a suppressor so do you think the stock spring in the conversion will suffice? Its difficult to say what springs work best since there are so many factors involved, but I do believe that user you're referring to is able to run it both suppressed and unsuppressed without any issue. Doesn't hurt to also get the bore buddy spring kit so you can experiment to see which one works best. I personally use the fostech echo recoil spring but haven't done a spring comparison between the different springs since I've gotten mine to run with consistent reliability. |
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Posted: 2/10/2022 6:50:51 PM EDT
[#39]
Well, I just ordered all of the parts... now to get a RBT. Was hoping to find them at a gun show but no luck so far.
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Posted: 2/10/2022 11:45:28 PM EDT
[#40]
You can order directly from them.
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Posted: 2/11/2022 6:38:24 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can order directly from them. Was trying to avoid that and pay cash |
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Posted: 2/12/2022 5:03:38 AM EDT
[#42]
Buy Visa gift cards, order under the name Rusty Shackleford, and ship it to an address that isn't associated with you like an empty house.
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Posted: 2/16/2022 8:20:09 PM EDT
[#43]
So I took it out for its maiden voyage today. Ran good at first, 3 shot bursts before a malfunction but I think it was just me. Then, all the sudden, I couldn't get the the conversion kit to set off a single round. No matter what ammo I tried (Blazers, mini mags, automatch) it would not set a single round off. I am going to play around with it tomorrow and see whats going on. I was using the bore buddy weight kit with 4 tungsten weights, buffer tube plug, bore buddy sear trip kit, and the bore buddy enhanced firing pin with the lighter of the two springs. I may switch back to the original CMMG firing pin and see what happens. Anybody have any ideas?
In other news, it ran like a top out of my buddy's 22" 6arc
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Posted: 2/16/2022 9:12:23 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:In other news, it ran like a top out of my buddy's 22" 6arc Sounds very expensive. |
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Posted: 2/16/2022 11:54:40 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sounds very expensive. It was, very. But he really just wanted the brass and we wanted to make sure the trigger was functioning okay. I brought a 556 upper with me, but it didn't function well. Im pretty sure it was due to the light buffer I completely forgot was in the lower. Gonna stick a heavier one in there and im almost positive it'll run just fine then. I also think that my 22 conversion wasn't firing because of a buildup of wax and other shit on the "chamber" of it. I don't think the rounds were seating completely and it was keeping the firing pin from striking them just enough. I will take it apart tomorrow and see. |
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Posted: 2/17/2022 11:56:13 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It was, very. But he really just wanted the brass and we wanted to make sure the trigger was functioning okay. I brought a 556 upper with me, but it didn't function well. Im pretty sure it was due to the light buffer I completely forgot was in the lower. Gonna stick a heavier one in there and im almost positive it'll run just fine then. I also think that my 22 conversion wasn't firing because of a buildup of wax and other shit on the "chamber" of it. I don't think the rounds were seating completely and it was keeping the firing pin from striking them just enough. I will take it apart tomorrow and see. Definitely give it a thorough cleaning, then generously lube all moving parts. When you say it wasn't firing even a single round can you specify whether the hammer dropped and there was a light strike, or was the hammer not dropping at all when you pull the trigger? What is the sear trip timed to (Based off thickest feeler gauge that fits in bolt while trigger can still be pulled to drop hammer)? Do you have a better mag adapter? |
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Posted: 2/17/2022 4:44:45 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Definitely give it a thorough cleaning, then generously lube all moving parts. When you say it wasn't firing even a single round can you specify whether the hammer dropped and there was a light strike, or was the hammer not dropping at all when you pull the trigger? What is the sear trip timed to (Based off thickest feeler gauge that fits in bolt while trigger can still be pulled to drop hammer)? Do you have a better mag adapter? It wasn't firing as in, the hammer was dropping and it was giving me a light strike. I haven't messed with the sear timing yet because I dont have a set of feeler gauges. I'll grab some either today or tomorrow. I do not have a better mag adapter, I am just using the CMMG magazines. Just got back from the range. I took the conversion completely apart, scrubbed out the carbon ring, generously lubed all moving parts, and I swapped back to the standard CMMG firing pin as opposed to the BoreBuddy firing pin. Seemed to work a little better but I was still getting some light strikes. Some were on the first round chambered, some were on the subsequent rounds after the first one went off. I can't quite tell, but it seems like the hammer may be hitting the mag catch on the Aero lower which is keeping from going forward all the way by just a hair. I also found that I had better luck getting it to run if I dropped the bolt on the round after inserting the mag and then using the forward assist to ensure the whole conversion unit is forward. I am not sure why this is because I am also using the BoreBuddy buffer plug. I am using the Blue recoil spring from BoreBuddy so maybe stepping up to the next weight will force the bolt closed a little better. I am going to go through and thoroughly clean out the firing pin channel and see what I get. When it sets off the first round, it almost always runs perfectly. But its 50/50 on if it will set off that first round. I also noticed that it was very picky about ammo, worked more often with Federal Automatch and Aguila Super Extra as opposed to Blazer, and surprisingly Mini-mags. Wonder if it’s finicky in terms of rim thickness. Any ideas? |
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Posted: 2/17/2022 7:42:02 PM EDT
[#48]
I couldn't get mine to run at all with auto match. It really liked the CCI AR Tactical and Blazers like nearly 100%. 40gr mini-mags were pretty good.
Pretty sure I have the yellow recoil spring. The factory CMMG firing pin (the bore buddy was hitting too far in from the rim) doesn't seem to care if I use the buffer plug or not. I run 1 each tungsten and aluminum. It was a little slower with all tungsten, but I think that's the best place to start. She likes to be dripping wet too. Like spray the ammo, the mags and every orifice. I put well over 1500 rounds of various ammo through it with anything from a bunch of clicks to a random burp trying tho. So don't give up, keep trying. With the bore buddy kits, you have about 100 combinations available. One of em is bound to run. |
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Posted: 2/17/2022 7:56:59 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I couldn't get mine to run at all with auto match. It really liked the CCI AR Tactical and Blazers like nearly 100%. 40gr mini-mags were pretty good. Pretty sure I have the yellow recoil spring. The factory CMMG firing pin (the bore buddy was hitting too far in from the rim) doesn't seem to care if I use the buffer plug or not. I run 1 each tungsten and aluminum. It was a little slower with all tungsten, but I think that's the best place to start. She likes to be dripping wet too. Like spray the ammo, the mags and every orifice. I put well over 1500 rounds of various ammo through it with anything from a bunch of clicks to a random burp trying tho. So don't give up, keep trying. With the bore buddy kits, you have about 100 combinations available. One of em is bound to run. Yep. Just went down and looked it over. I switched back to the original CMMG firing pin but im using the light BoreBuddy firing pin spring. I put some empty cases in the gun and that combination seemed to give me the hardest hits. I also took out the bolt catch/release from the lower just completely eliminate the idea that the trigger isn't coming far enough forward to hit the firing pin. I swapped the recoil spring from the 3lb blue one to the 4lb yellow one. I will take the 5lb one and the factory CMMG 6lb one with me as well to try them all. Also, do the triggers take regular hammer springs from an AR? My next venture may be to put a stronger hammer spring in the trigger but I dont have any clue how to disassemble the trigger. Trying to avoid that at all costs. Will take it out tomorrow and see what happens! Got a plethora of different 22's to test it out with. I also got the feeler gauges as I had just eyeballed the timing and it was actually good. Hammer wouldn't drop above .012" of gap. |
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Posted: 2/18/2022 2:16:32 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep. Just went down and looked it over. I switched back to the original CMMG firing pin but im using the light BoreBuddy firing pin spring. I put some empty cases in the gun and that combination seemed to give me the hardest hits. I also took out the bolt catch/release from the lower just completely eliminate the idea that the trigger isn't coming far enough forward to hit the firing pin. I swapped the recoil spring from the 3lb blue one to the 4lb yellow one. I will take the 5lb one and the factory CMMG 6lb one with me as well to try them all. Also, do the triggers take regular hammer springs from an AR? My next venture may be to put a stronger hammer spring in the trigger but I dont have any clue how to disassemble the trigger. Trying to avoid that at all costs. Will take it out tomorrow and see what happens! Got a plethora of different 22's to test it out with. I also got the feeler gauges as I had just eyeballed the timing and it was actually good. Hammer wouldn't drop above .012" of gap. I expect a heavier recoil spring (4 or 6lbs) should help push the bolt fully forward to help reduce the light strikes on the first round. Also it can be very picky with ammo so be sure to bring different types of ammo to experiment with. How did you get the forward assist to work with the bore buddy adjustable weight? Since it's smooth and doesn't have the necessary cutouts Also, does your FRT assembly wiggle at all if you try to move it front-to-back or side to side? If so, get the WOT shim from Bore Buddy to help with timing and also to prevent the wiggling from taking away energy that should be going towards the hammer strike. |
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