Down to these two muzzle devices for a 13.7 barrel. Any first hand knowledge with either, or both? I've done the prerequisite searching for vids/reviews and found some...but for every 1 review there are 10 on the Warcomp LOL.

I'm not interested in "making" any device below 2.7" work with a bunch of shims or an ADCO spacer. I've accepted I have a 13.7 barrel and I will be limited into the devices that will get me to 16.1 OAL pinned/welded. From my rough calculations of sticking a measuring rod down the bore to the bolt, the NOX should work with a .10 washer. The KX-5 is listed as 3.1" so it would be G2G. The only other option I've found is JP's 3-prong.

Here is my question on the KX-5...I know it's named the 'Flaming Pig' but of the few videos I've seen it's not throwing massive fireballs (even at night). I know this can be ammo dependent as well, but is it just a true linear comp? I'm fine without the flames all the time.

On a side note...I called SOLGW yesterday on a question about timing the NOX...Mike actually answered the phone and we talked for about 15. Cool dude...had no idea he would be answering calls directly.

I’ve got a 13.7 solgw/BCM mashup and I went with the nox. I timed it for a rh shooter (ports up and 90 degrees to the right.

I haven’t put a lot of rounds through it (around 300) and I have done some fast shooting. I read over and over that it overdrives the muzzle, but that hasn’t been my experience.

My rifle has the a5h2/sprinco green setup and the muzzle barely moves. While getting used to the larue trigger and trying to feel the reset, I had a couple of unintentional double taps and both rounds were right on top of each other at 20 yards.

There’s another muzzle device you can use. I believe it’s a BE Myers. Look up the faq section on solgw website. There’s a section about the 13.7. All of the muzzle devices are listed there.

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Damn...who did that p/w job? That looks fantastic.

I've read about the overdriving too, but it seems fewer than more say that. My only question would be how to time it. I'm RH, but I was thinking just go neutral. I may need to just try both.

I was looking at the BE Meyers...but 1) it's no longer in production and they are fetching $200+ on EE, and 2) I like the option with the NOX of DA can compatibility.

P&W was done by Kody at Weapon Genetics. One man shop (and a hardcore ak guy) but last time I was there I got to hold a Thompson, a ppsh, and an mg42, all full auto.  

He’s part of an ak group down here and they have machine gun shoots. I’ve got an open invitation for me and my 2 boys.

Kody was wanting to clock it so both ports were at upward 45 degree angles. He said if I was shooting over night vision, I wouldn’t want those ports pointing straight up and messing with my vision.

The bottom tang on the nox is wide to keep from kicking up dirt. I had done my research and asked him to time it for right hand shooting. I agreed to pay him to remove it and re-time it when I came to my senses lol.

I really just wanted it to be symmetrical. I think the weight of the light also helps.  Ymmv.

What else are you doing with your build?  Gonna suppress it?  A5?  Trigger?  3rd hole?

I forgot about the wider tine on the NOX so I get it in terms of timing it that way. I will likely do the same.

Suppressing it down the road with a Sandman K is on the table, but I'm also a fan of SF cans so who knows. I might try the Pyro too for no other reason than cool factor as SF has discontinued the Warden. But the Pyro gives you the "brake" factor and then when you take it off you still have FH capability.

I plan to run a spare Geissele Super 42 with an H1 I have, along with an ALG ACT trigger. This was supposed to be my "cheap" build LOL, but it may not stay that way. I wasn't even planning to do it until I found a new 13.7 on the EE and took the plunge.

What rail are you running? I've got a Geissele MK4 13" flat and it damn near comes right to the shoulder when I mock it up.

I went with the Midwest Industries Combat rail. It’s a 12.625” or something like that. It’s designed to fit behind a front sight post type gas block but was also a perfect length for the 13.7.

Can’t go wrong with the geissele. That 13” will be cutting it close for mounting a can, but I don’t have a ton of experience with that.

My vote is the Nox.  I’m not interested in adding more back pressure and I see no need for a forward blast muzzle device on a 13+ inch barrel.

JP just introduced their version of the BE Meyers 249f, which while cosmetically different should hit the 16” oal requirement.  They bought the rights to the design from BE Meyers in late ‘19 if I remember right.  For what it’s worth, think the 249f looks way better than the JP version, but it is what it is.

Barring that, I’d be really tempted to go with a Nox suppressor mount.  I’ll probably do that on my next 13.7” build.

https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPFH-556L

Good point...I forgot it does technically do that. And from a purely vain perspective, I’d have to get a rail that would cover a good 2” of it (which also adds a tad bit more weight). I don’t like the look of it as it meets up with the threads. Then, that would cover the pin which idk if it would/wouldn’t be a problem.

I read about them acquiring the rights too and it would absolutely work. But agree on look...the BE version was much sexier

The big selling point to the NOX is the keymo compatibility. Nice bonus since it will be p/w.

OP -  I have a factory Noveske upper 13.7 in .300BK with a p/w KX5 which is about 2/3 under the Novesle MLOK handguards (it was a custom order).  Very slick set up and no flash at all (granted .300BK is not high flash at that barrel length but still a great set up IMHO.