So I just bought the warrior x pro and the Armytek predator pro to monkey around with.

I just got them and I have plenty of 18650’s for the predator but so far only the one 21700 that comes with the warrior.

There isn’t much info out there and I want to make sure before I buy batteries that won’t work.

One review said normal 21700 batteries won’t work period with the warrior. But a post on candlepower said a normal 21700 will work, it just won’t charge using the magnetic charging system that comes with the warrior.

So those two posts seem to (maybe?) indicate that I can use a normal 21700 in the warrior but I’ll have to take the battery out to charge it, and the special 21700 battery that comes with the Olight won’t charge on a normal charger (I have nightcore chargers) because it’s dual polarity.

Can anyone confirm?

Oh, if anyone is interested I can toss up some pics comparing the two.

Not going to be much help, but the only other 21700 I own is fenix and it’s too long for my warrior x pro. I like what olight has been doing with the upgraded pro line of lights so I own the seeker 2 pro the M2r pro and the warrior x pro they all share the same batteries and I have one extra battery just in case.

And I can charge olights proprietary 21700 battery in my UMS2 just fine. The positive button isn’t nearly as recessed as much as other proprietary battery’s with the plastic separator. Obviously just be careful not to short it out.

Holy crud, I only got to play with this for about 30 seconds today (busy day) but I can’t even begin to fathom what they were thinking with the programming of this. Unless I’m missing an option to reprogram it.

A light press if the button turns on low power mode, 300 lumens. I don’t care about that option at all.

To get to high you need to completely depress the button to where it actually clicks. Wtf?  With a couple of practice clicks I got it to go into high mode momentary, but it makes a freakin clicking noise. Hiw would this be even remotely useful in a tactical situation?  If you were in a quiet setting that click could be heard from a mile away.

Unless I’m missing a way to reprogram it, this is completely useless in a tactical application as a rifle mounted light. What the hell were they thinking?

And I won’t even start on the glowing ring by the bezel of the light. This is a work flashlight only.

Very dissatisfied with those two “features”.

I’ll probably keep this for camping, or night hikes. That’s about it though.

I don’t know, there’s a slight click but mines not that loud at all. My biggest issue with it is the gimmicky gas pedal switch. It definitely doesn’t come close to the feel of a surefire. I think all the lumens are going to give you away before the “click” is even heard. Its going to get pretty hot to hold on to keeping it on full output all the time. You can run it on 300 lumens  for 8 hours straight without any drop in output and it still punches out pretty far, and intermittently punch out all the lumens to make sure everything is good down range. How did you miss all the reviews? Every YouTube personality has one of these things.

I dunno. I guess I just figured it’d be like the other bunch of olights I have. I like everything else about it but man what a dumb set up (imo). At least make it programmable so I can make it high only.

Ok, so playing with it some more now, the click compared to my olight m22 warrior is a lot quieter but it’s still fairly loud, especially in a quiet environment. And for some reason, on mine at least, the click that occurs when you’re letting off the button is louder than when you depress it to activate it *shrugs*. Kinda odd. I guess.

Dunno. Jury is still out on this for me. I haven’t been out to actually compare the two, but so far I like the ArmyTek a lot more. I take that back, I like the switching and weight more on the Armytek.

From what I recall from a M4D M4X video - the Olight WXP battery has + and - on the same end, separated by a raised plastic ring. So pretty sure only the OL 21700 will work, but depending on your desk charger contact size - it *may* work to charge - but check his video.

As far as the light - I use the pressure pad, so I don't even remember the tail switch "gas pedal". I'll have to take mine off and see what's what. I love the light, but if you want a more conventional unit with ~same output (2,000L / 91,000 C) - Acebeam L16's are awesome. Even the pad is nice, once you cut out the curly section (basic wiring skills required). They beat the snot out of the WXP during development though.

Oh wait, so the tape switch negates that stupid gas pedal?  That’s my answer right there!

I’ll pick up an acebeam too for my.....whatever classification you want to call them(midrange, budget, chinesium, etc).....light shootout.

Yes, the Tape switch magnetically attaches where the "gas pedal" is and takes over. The one thing that it can't do (well, I've done it accidentally, but couldn't tell you how - need to email Olight) is the 300 Lumens - it's full bore Turbo, or nothing - which is fine for a WML IMO. You *DO* absolutely *Need* to put a wrap or two of electrical tape w/ a tab, around it though - otherwise it *will* move. Before tape = I've had no worky, after tape = never had it not work. The tab on the tape makes it easy to remove, when you want to slap on the charger.

I friggen love Acebeam L16's - I like "Whiter" colored lights - either one is awesome though. I put the 16 on my .300BLK and am slowly acquiring round counts on it to test.