MK 12 MOD 0 clone with non-clone temporary optic:

TA01NSN/JP (4x DOS PIP):






SU-230/PVS-C:






Haven't really gotten a chance to fire with either, test-fired the rifle after assembly with iron sights for function, 50 foot indoor range only, but hopefully I'll have an opportunity to stretch her legs soon.  The planned TS30-A2 will most likely not be a possibility until at least next year.  

I've been thinking about picking up a cheap scope to throw on her, but I can't seem to find anything that looks like it would be worthwhile, fit in the ARMS #22 rings (30MM tube) that's not halfway to the price of the MK4 anyways.  

~Augee

Looks great. Looks like you managed to find one of the older collars.

I like the Elcan on it better than the TA01.

Yup, still no older PRI front sight, though.  

Will probably give it a spray over of tan as it is, just because it doesn't look right black to me, but I'll still be on the lookout for other parts!  

With any luck, by the time I find all the new parts and get the optic, it'll be time for a touchup anyways.  

~Augee

Decided to go with the BFG sling mount which is spec for the A4 and made a few minor adjustments.



















 

That's the route I took as well. Seemed to be the best solution as far as sling mounts go.  Later on I may get the PRi QD picatinny rail piece.

Off to climb a tree with my Mk12 for the opening day of gun season.

Just a heads up ARMS rail and other Mod 0 parts in the EE

Is the Nightforce 2.5-10x24 kosher for a Mod 0 build or were they only seen on Mod 1s?

Planning my journey to Mk12 Mod 0 ownership and would like to know thoughts on going with a PRI upper or one built by High Caliber Sales LLC. I see the latter is a bit higher. Any reason for the price difference? Does the hive have a preference?

I'm not to worried about cost on this build

High Caliber makes their uppers 100% to spec, even down to sourcing their barrels from the same mfg.  PRI makes their facsimile thereof, but it's still "close enough" for membership in this thread.



 

Thank you for the reply. High Caliber it is because "close enough" just wont cut it for my OCD ways

Really?

Looks like things have changed since I bought my Mod 0 upper from HCS.

perhaps those items are no longer viable options from a availability standpoint?  They do say on their website

"Please note that this is a custom built item.  If you would like some other combination of accessories, or  parts added or deleted, please contact us for a quote." so maybe they can use those if the buyer is willing to pay he price

Not knocking Kevin. HCS is top shelf in my book. I got my upper a couple of years ago. March or April of 2011 if I remember right.

what height Badger rings on a Mod1 with a NF 2.5 -10 X24 ? Thanks
or Arms rings?

Rainier Arms has the Pri Gen III tubes on sale.  FDE is sold out now, but they have the rifle in natural finish and the delta in black.  There are other sizes as well on sale.

Arms 22H (high)




Regrettably I have to get rid of my HCS mod 1 for know (I need some cash to put towards some NV items). If anyone is in the market for a mod 1 upper I have mine for sale in the EE......

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_159/1238331_High_Caliber_Sales_MK12_Mod1_SPR_Upper.html



I also have the Arms 22H rings and a like new Leupold LEUPOLD Mark 4 MR-T 2.5-8x36mm (30mm) M2 - TS-30 A2 Matte Illum. TMR (112633) with the mk12 77gr knobs that I will be selling but not until the upper sells. Same goes for the colt lower with geiselle ssa and lmt sopmod .

Man, hunterex, those rings are looow.  Was that the intent, to get the optic as low as possible with the Sleeve?  Do you have issues with the caps?

You guys are a lot closer than I am, but this was close enough for me. DDS2W 18 inch middy.  DDM4 lower,

All of you w/ the Ops Inc brake, do you have Ops Inc suppressors?  I had that break on my 6.5 Creedmoor and it was awful.

I have the OPS suppressor.  I think if the brake wasn't part of the clone build most would opt for something else.

Pretty much...and amusingly they're listed as high rings by the manufacturer. I'll replace them with ARMS#22M rings after the season is over but in the meanwhile I went with the lowest Maximas that would clear. No problem at all with the caps. There's a few millimeters of clearance.

I went this route so they would continue being useful to me on a bolt action after I pull them. Warne's Extra High rings are the same height as the #22 Medium, though.



Seconded.  I tried really hard to get around using the 12th Model Brake.  I would loved to had used an Ops Inc A1 flash hider but they don't seem to make them in 5/8X24.  
I'm very curious to find out how bad this brake is without hearing protection.

It is awful with 223/556 as well.


I love my Ops 12th.

BAD.





Right after I finished my mk12 I hurried out to go shoot and forgot my ear pro... for the last time. I keep a pair of plugs with it at all times.
 

Not even remotely close to a Mk12 clone.  You'll have good success in the recce, SPR, and, and midlength threads.



 

   Off to research electronic ear plugs.   This may not had been the wisest build for a deer rifle, but it was that or put it off another year.

I hang a pair of plugs around my neck and pop 'em in when the time comes.
   

Should've cleaned it first...



 

Aye, and I'll likely do that as well.  Problem for me is that most of my shots are within 40 yards. They're literally on top of me before I know they're there. Don't really have the luxury of a lot of movement.

Where I am in my pic on last page I can see about 650 yards so that's kind of fun. Still, the second deer I got there a couple weekends ago surprised me at about fifty yards. Just had a brief window to get my rifle up in when he looked over his back... so definitely wouldn't had been able to get plugs in on that one.

Same here, that's why I got "sly" and bought a bow.



 

SEI makes the vortex threaded for the ops inc can. I got it for mine, should be a little easier on the ears. g6a2-sbv
http://www.smithenterprise.com/products06.05.html

Good recommendation. They were one of the options I looked at but never saw one in 5/8-24.  Just 1/2-28 and 11/16-24.

Got the brake and the suppressor...   I'm very pleased with both.  The brake is loud as fuq but does a good job.

Just as a heads up for you guys, ADCO has the Allen Engineering versions of the OPS suppressors up on their site. Apparently, Allen used to manufacture suppressors for OPS and now that the patents have expired, they are going to do them on their own. The prices beat the OPS too! Should be a nice development for those of us interested in the Mk12 and variants.

Price is right.  Hmm....

Don't like the way it mounts, though. Doesn't look as though it uses the Ops Inc muzzle device threads. I do see that they have a clone of the 12th model brake for $100.

I think the AEM5 mounts the same way as the 12th.

Bet you're right.  Okay, I'm tempted now.

One step closer (thanks Augee), most of the other parts will come off the mod1.  It should be done in a couple weeks.

Can't wait to see her done!  

Couldn't stand to see the MOD 0 black, so even though not all the finalized parts are in - I decided to give her a temporary rattle-can job:








Certainly not the best job I've done, and you can see some places where I accidentally handled it before the Krylon fully dried, but like I said, it's only a temporary job for the time being.  

If I were more patient, I would've at least waited to find the proper "full address" PRI front sight and DD Burnsed Loop, but I figured I'd need to re-do the job when I got an optic in the ARMS rings, so "why not."  

Will probably throw either the TA01NSN or SU-230 on her this weekend and get some rounds through her besides test firing, probably no more than 150-200m, though.  

~Augee

Looking good, fellas!



 

Wish I could find a PRI tube at a decent price....it sucks being poor

If you think the price of the tube is bad then the rest of the parts are absolutely astronomical.  




You're killing me, man.  Looks great.  Can't wait for the end of January to be able to paint mine.  For me right now it's either cope with it or paint it and not see a deer for the rest of the season.

You all make me sick.

Damned BRD.  Hopefully my new upper will show up sometime soon.

Looks good Augee.

 

I swear this is not a cryptic WTS ad, but I currently have two PRI reproduction PEQ sleeves on the EE, since KOBK offered me the proverbial "offer I couldn't refuse" and I found myself the proud owner of an ARMS sleeve, but I just got a question about the differences between the Direct Mount and Rail Mount PRI sleeves, and it occurred to me that it's probably pretty rare that all three sleeves are in the same place at the same time, and it wouldn't hurt to take some general comparison photos so everyone would know what the differences were, and decide for themselves whether they wanted to hold out for an ARMS sleeve, or which PRI they might prefer to use.  

First, general comparison with the ARMS sleeve:



The one on the left (painted and mounted) is the ARMS SPR-PEQ-2-3 (obviously ).  The center is the PRI Rail Mount Sleeve, while the Direct Mount is on the right.

Unfortunately, I didn't think to do this before I painted the ARMS sleeve, but the first difference to many is the color - the ARMS sleeve uses the typical ARMS blue/gray hue, versus PRI's deeper flat black.

You can see here that the PRI Rail Mount sleeve matches the ARMS sleeve very well in top profile - the biggest difference is the use of hex head screws with the PRI sleeve versus the slotted head screws on the ARMS, there are other smaller differences as well.  

The Direct Mount sleeve, however, has some bigger differences in the profile of the AN/PEQ-2 mounting area - the removable rail section is shorter, with the screws located in slightly different places to correspond with the holes in the PRI forearm rather than the 8.5" top rail with bushings.  Unfortunately, I don't have an AN/PEQ-2 to install, but it would appear that the LAM would mount slightly further back on the Direct Mount sleeve versus the ARMS and the Rail Mount sleeve.  

Another comparison of the PRI sleeves alone - Rail Mount left, Direct Mount right:



The biggest difference, of course, between the PRI Direct Mount sleeve and the ARMS and Rail Mount sleeves is how they attach to the forearm:

The ARMS is dovetailed to mate to the PRI 8.5" top rail, and is secured to the top rail by two screws that mount to bushings in the PRI "rail with socket."




The PRI Rail Mount mimics the ARMS rail's mounting system, as you can see it here "installed" on the bottom rail - the offset between the sleeve and the rail section is due to the way the bottom rail mounts, which is offset from the top rail - the PRI rail is the same length, and would look nearly identical when mounted.  




The Direct Mount, on the other hand, eliminates the 8.5" top rail section completely, and rather than mounting over it, replaces it entirely, in this photo you can see the fasteners that go inside the PRI tube to secure the sleeve to the forearm:




This photo compares the front end side of the PRI Direct Mount with the ARMS:




Here the front ends of the PRI Rail Mount and Direct Mount are compared:




The major functional differences out of the way, there are a couple of cosmetic differences between the ARMS and PRI sleeves.

The ARMS rail features a shallow scalloped area on the right side with the manufacturer's information inside.  On the right, the PRI sleeve has a similar scallop, but it's in a slightly different location, and a slightly different dimension (Direct Mount pictured, however, the shape and location of the scallop are identical on both PRI sleeves):




On the ARMS sleeve, this scallop is only on the right hand side, however, the PRI sleeves have them on both sides:




The other major difference is the receiver mounting area:

On the left side, the ARMS rail has a removable "plate" in which screws are permanently affixed and is removed for assembly and disassembly, with three slotted bolts that are secured on the right side, on the PRI, three hex head screws are inserted from the left side, securing a plate on the right side of the receiver:






As a result the profile of the mounting area is different between the two, and the screws located in slightly different places (the PRI rails are identical in this area as well).  On the photo above, you can also see the ARMS "Swan in a Circle" logo ahead of the bolts.  

Hope this is helpful to anyone who was curious about the differences between the PRI and ARMS PEQ sleeves.  

~Augee

Techy posts like this are what make this thread AWESOME.  Thanks Augee!  I might edit my OP with a link straight to your post so that everyone can easily find this comparison.  It's probably the biggest part to a Mod0 build.



ETA: Okay, I started a new category in my OP called "Specific Mk12 Tech" for posts like Augee's.  I'd also like to add to that list any posts that have addressed the differences in optics as well as the slight changes in the OPS Inc. 12th model collars, and I'd even consider adding the differences in the Mod0 flip-up front sight / gas manifold.  So if anyone knows exactly where that post is in this massive thread, go right to it, click "link to this post", copy it out of the address bar and PM it to me so I can make more edits.  THANKS!





 

Here's mine.

Specs
Colt upper, BCG, lower, gas tube, H3 buffer
HCS Douglas Mk12 barrel with Crane gas block
KAC 30mm scope mount, QD sling mount (front), bipod adapter, BUIS, trigger guard
Harris 6-9 BRM-S
Geissele SSA trigger
Ops-Inc muzzle brake/collar (12th Model pending )
PRI M84 charging handle
NF 2.5-10x32 mil-mil with Zero Stop

I know the lower is A2, which is a minus. I didn't want to break the Colt RE staking so I just went with a TangoDown PR-4 sling mount.

I'm tempted to punch out the KAC trigger guard and put the stock one back in, but I'm in no hurry to do that (the KAC was put in prior to my deciding to go Mk12).

I am thinking about getting the correct A.R.M.S. rings, but I will have to bridge the gap for eye relief. Luckily, I have seen a few pics of Marines bridging the gap so that shouldn't be too big a deal.