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Posted: 4/2/2020 1:49:09 PM EDT
[#1]
Welcome to the black rifle. I like m pro 7 cleaners and use their oil. People have a lot of opinions on this and there is a lot of "it depends". Try some small bottles of different lube and see how it runs in your environment over the year.
The AR can go a few thousand rounds without cleaning but if it's your end of the world rifle you might want to clean it every time you shoot and check for good lube often. |
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Posted: 4/2/2020 3:10:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Most any cleaner will work. I like Hoppes and also use mineral spirits for cleaning. Occasionally a squirt of brake cleaner here and there. I also keep Kroil around and use it for bore cleaning and squirt it on before removing hard to remove fasteners and pins.
There are more opinions on lubricants than there are lubricants. Most will work fine. I have used Militec, SlipEWL, Lucas gun oil, tons of military CLP. For a do it all product, you can’t go wrong with military CLP. Pick something you like and use it. Keep your rifle lubed and it’ll keep working. Just don’t use crap like Froglube and you’ll be fine. Also don’t use grease....it’s not needed. Lubricants are an emotional topic for some gun owners so expect lots of opinions with lots of emotional arguments thrown in. Nothing runs forever. Eventually any rifle that gets shot a lot will need parts replacement. The only guns that run forever are the safe queens many people around here own that they never shoot. I clean after I shoot it. It’ll go longer between cleanings but since I actually rely on my rifle (patrol rifle) I don’t take chances and keep it clean and lubricated. Cleaning it also allows me to inspect it closely and when I see the start of wear on parts, I replace them. Cleaning for me isn’t just about cleaning but also includes inspection. If you just shoot your rifle at the range and you like to brag about how you never clean it....do that if it makes you happy. |
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Posted: 4/2/2020 4:33:30 PM EDT
[#3]
Thank you!!
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Posted: 4/2/2020 4:34:05 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Most any cleaner will work. I like Hoppes and also use mineral spirits for cleaning. Occasionally a squirt of brake cleaner here and there. I also keep Kroil around and use it for bore cleaning and squirt it on before removing hard to remove fasteners and pins. There are more opinions on lubricants than there are lubricants. Most will work fine. I have used Militec, SlipEWL, Lucas gun oil, tons of military CLP. For a do it all product, you can’t go wrong with military CLP. Pick something you like and use it. Keep your rifle lubed and it’ll keep working. Just don’t use crap like Froglube and you’ll be fine. Also don’t use grease....it’s not needed. Lubricants are an emotional topic for some gun owners so expect lots of opinions with lots of emotional arguments thrown in. Nothing runs forever. Eventually any rifle that gets shot a lot will need parts replacement. The only guns that run forever are the safe queens many people around here own that they never shoot. I clean after I shoot it. It’ll go longer between cleanings but since I actually rely on my rifle (patrol rifle) I don’t take chances and keep it clean and lubricated. Cleaning it also allows me to inspect it closely and when I see the start of wear on parts, I replace them. Cleaning for me isn’t just about cleaning but also includes inspection. If you just shoot your rifle at the range and you like to brag about how you never clean it....do that if it makes you happy. Thank you. |
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Posted: 4/2/2020 4:35:50 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Most any cleaner will work. I like Hoppes and also use mineral spirits for cleaning. Occasionally a squirt of brake cleaner here and there. I also keep Kroil around and use it for bore cleaning and squirt it on before removing hard to remove fasteners and pins. There are more opinions on lubricants than there are lubricants. Most will work fine. I have used Militec, SlipEWL, Lucas gun oil, tons of military CLP. For a do it all product, you can’t go wrong with military CLP. Pick something you like and use it. Keep your rifle lubed and it’ll keep working. Just don’t use crap like Froglube and you’ll be fine. Also don’t use grease....it’s not needed. Lubricants are an emotional topic for some gun owners so expect lots of opinions with lots of emotional arguments thrown in. Nothing runs forever. Eventually any rifle that gets shot a lot will need parts replacement. The only guns that run forever are the safe queens many people around here own that they never shoot. I clean after I shoot it. It’ll go longer between cleanings but since I actually rely on my rifle (patrol rifle) I don’t take chances and keep it clean and lubricated. Cleaning it also allows me to inspect it closely and when I see the start of wear on parts, I replace them. Cleaning for me isn’t just about cleaning but also includes inspection. If you just shoot your rifle at the range and you like to brag about how you never clean it....do that if it makes you happy. Question: what's the difference between Slip 2000 EWL and SLip 2000? I can't tell off of Amazon. |
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Posted: 4/2/2020 5:14:20 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Question: what's the difference between Slip 2000 EWL and SLip 2000? I can't tell off of Amazon. EWL is a little thinner but probably burns off a little slower. The 2000 is a little thicker. Between the two, I’d pick the EWL but even the 2000 is good stuff. Slip products are good. Use with confidence. |
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Posted: 4/2/2020 5:24:55 PM EDT
[#7]
I've tried lots of cleaners and lubricants, but keep coming back to CLP and occasionally Tetra gun grease/spray.
Not sure there's a ton of difference, to be honest. I will recommend Bear Metal G-Tip cleaning swabs, though. Those things are freaking awesome. |
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Posted: 4/2/2020 6:06:33 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Welcome to the black rifle. I like m pro 7 cleaners and use their oil. People have a lot of opinions on this and there is a lot of "it depends". Try some small bottles of different lube and see how it runs in your environment over the year. The AR can go a few thousand rounds without cleaning but if it's your end of the world rifle you might want to clean it every time you shoot and check for good lube often. +1 for Mpro 7. Their LPX is great stuff that sticks and lasts very long. I use to be in the CLP camp but have been using Mpro 7 stuff solely for a number of years. ETA. I also use Tetra gun grease on sliding parts like rails. Very good stuff but not cheap |
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Posted: 4/2/2020 10:09:11 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: +1 for Mpro 7. Their LPX is great stuff that sticks and lasts very long. I use to be in the CLP camp but have been using Mpro 7 stuff solely for a number of years. ETA. I also use Tetra gun grease on sliding parts like rails. Very good stuff but not cheap Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Welcome to the black rifle. I like m pro 7 cleaners and use their oil. People have a lot of opinions on this and there is a lot of "it depends". Try some small bottles of different lube and see how it runs in your environment over the year. The AR can go a few thousand rounds without cleaning but if it's your end of the world rifle you might want to clean it every time you shoot and check for good lube often. +1 for Mpro 7. Their LPX is great stuff that sticks and lasts very long. I use to be in the CLP camp but have been using Mpro 7 stuff solely for a number of years. ETA. I also use Tetra gun grease on sliding parts like rails. Very good stuff but not cheap Thank you all for your advice. Very helpful!! |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 9:59:06 PM EDT
[#10]
In my first experience with gun cleaning I always used Breakfree CLP then an automotive grease. Did it for about 10 years before I switched products. A tube of grease will last you for a very long time.
Now I go with Boretech products for cleaning, then Tetra grease & clp for protection and lubrication. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 1:34:40 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: EWL is a little thinner but probably burns off a little slower. The 2000 is a little thicker. Between the two, I’d pick the EWL but even the 2000 is good stuff. Slip products are good. Use with confidence. i think that's backwards. EWL is a tad thicker so it stays in place better. then theres the EWL 30w that's even thicker. i noticed slip 2000 tend to creep a lot threw cracks but any of them are perfectly good. i on the other hand have gone with more breakthrough products as of late. seems to be just as good and even has a nice needle applicator. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HNAYPV4/ 
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Posted: 4/4/2020 2:05:59 AM EDT
[#12]
Weaponshield Hands Down THE BEST I have ever used on my guns.
Buy a maintenance kit and call it a day. Weapon Shield Maintenance Kits |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 7:28:44 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: i think that's backwards. EWL is a tad thicker so it stays in place better. then theres the EWL 30w that's even thicker. i noticed slip 2000 tend to creep a lot threw cracks but any of them are perfectly good. i on the other hand have gone with more breakthrough products as of late. seems to be just as good and even has a nice needle applicator. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HNAYPV4/ https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/716RR5EcriL._AC_SL1500_.jpg I have bottles of both and the Slip2000 is definitely thicker than the EWL. I don’t have any of the EWL30 so can’t compare it. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 9:19:42 AM EDT
[#14]
Go a few posts down from yours and you will see how lubrication posts turn into a heated debate where people defend what they like or have invested $$$ into.
I have used CLP since I got my first AR and have never had any issues. But there will be people coming in to tell me that CLP is not a lubricant, and that it does not work, and that my AR will fall apart for using it. I have recently switched to Lucas extreme gun oil and gun grease for all of my firearm needs. No scientific testing I just feel like it stays in place better than CLP. So far I have shot it from 0 - 95 Deg F and been happy with its performance at those temps. I dont really use the grease on the AR but sometimes if its a 100 deg F day and I am going to the range to larperate I will put a little bit on the carrier rails. New ARs or new builds I will clean and inspect ever couple hundred rounds. Just gives me a chance to make sure its all working and no excessive wear or issues. After that everything gets cleaned 1-2 times a year, or I may get bored and clean them at random. I dont clean the barrel unless accuracy degrades. Now someone come tell me I am wrong and that I need to be using *insert gucci non gmo organic oil* |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 9:44:35 AM EDT
[#15]
It's just Ballistol.
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Posted: 4/5/2020 4:28:26 AM EDT
[#16]
http://www.slip2000.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=S&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60387
https://www.amazon.com/Twod-AR-15-Cleaning-Supplies-Accessories/dp/B07CFQJ3KZ/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=ar15+cleaning+kit&qid=1586075236&sr=8-17 Order these two and your good to go! |
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Posted: 4/8/2020 9:38:53 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's just Ballistol. This. For general cleaning - Ballistol. Will take care of everything on the outside, 90+% of the time. If for some reason you need something more than that, then Hoppes #9 should be plenty sufficient. I'm not a fan of super aggressive stuff like brake cleaner. It's simply not necessary, IMO. Beyond that, for inside the bore, you can use a bore-specific solvent like Shooter's Choice. A number of others to choose from as well. For lube, whatever floats your boat. Something that works well in cold temps is good, IMHO. ETA: Some people choose to use a CLP type of product as a one-thing-that-does-it-all approach. But if you're at home, and not stuck out in the boonies, then it's nice having choices beyond CLP. |
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Posted: 4/16/2020 4:32:06 PM EDT
[#18]
Any of the regular cleaning agents. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner works well as a degreased too. For lube, the most important factor is that you use it and in the correct places. I personally have switched from high zinc Amsoil Z-Rod 10w30 to cherrybalmz.
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Posted: 4/22/2020 12:48:55 AM EDT
[#19]
Firearm specific grease (cherrybalmz) is my go to. I find that oil runs and dries up too quickly.
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Posted: 4/22/2020 7:29:21 PM EDT
[#20]
Good point it’s shitty having runny oil on guns that will be in storage.
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Posted: 4/22/2020 9:46:42 PM EDT
[#21]
I suggest you read an article called filthy fourteen on the Slip 2000 website and you will learn very much about truth versus myth.
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Posted: 4/23/2020 1:59:01 AM EDT
[#22]
Can't go wrong with Hoppes and CLP.
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Posted: 5/16/2020 4:06:34 PM EDT
[#23]
Don't use WD40 anywhere on that gun. Look up Mike Pannone as he has articles on Defense Review which talks about how the rifle is very reliable and what he does to make it so.
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Posted: 6/28/2020 9:59:22 AM EDT
[#24]
after trying several products throughout the years, ive settled on Slip 2000 EWL and M-Pro 7 gun cleaner.
i usually clean every 500 or 600 rnds although i dont lose sleep at night if its been 1000. just keep it lubed. i sometimes run a patch or two with a flexible otis cable before each use but its not necessary. a dry boresnake pass is my dry patch. i might run some copper cleaner (bore tech) when bored in the winter. some people clean the rifle after every session. |
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Posted: 6/30/2020 7:10:45 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Don't use WD40 anywhere on that gun. When I had my gunsmith shop in Wisconsin, many yeas ago, every once in a while someone would bring in a firearm that was frozen solid (wouldn't open, cycle, etc.), That they assured me they kept it well lubed over the years with WD40. As it always turned out, the weapon would free up after letting it sit in acetone overnight. Once re-lubed it worked like it was supposed to. WD40 seems to turn to gum, or varnish over time, and repeated applications will layer up, and eventually, stopping the function of tight tolerance mechanical parts. I think everyone should read both the ‘Educate Yourself – The Science’, and ‘History of Gun Lubricants’ on cherybalmz's web site. It helps understand where we started with firearm lubrication, and some of the wrong turns we took along the way (starting about the mid-'60s). Browning, Garand, and Thompson understood firearm lubrication...That so many have forgot. |
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Posted: 6/30/2020 8:48:52 PM EDT
[#26]
Keep it simple. I kept many a rifle running perfectly in harsh conditions with nothing more than CLP and a military cleaning kit. CLP never failed me for 30 years. I've recently gotten very low on the CLP that followed me home from service and now I'm using Ballistol. Smells funky but works very well, cleans easy, runs about $1 an ounce and is skin safe. If you want to pay crazy prices for other oils, feel free to do so, but the performance won't actually be any better.
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Posted: 7/2/2020 12:03:16 PM EDT
[#27]
Breakfree clp or ballistol for cleaning and oiling. superlube grease on the bcg.
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Posted: 7/2/2020 10:41:37 PM EDT
[#28]
Go to slip2000 website and read and article called filthy fourteen and you will learn much.
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Posted: 7/3/2020 5:12:45 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Go to slip2000 website and read and article called filthy fourteen and you will learn much. Instead of relying upon propaganda from companies trying to sell you something, how about us taking a look at what has worked in rough conditions, PROVEN, not a sales pitch. Ballistol (1905) Seems to have kept 2 of the 20th Century's most combat proven armies running (WW1&2 German). Lubriplate (1942) US grease of choice from WW2 until who knows when. Kept those M1s, M14s, Thompsons, M1 Carbines, M3 grease guns, and probably everything else running until the 60s. LSA (1960s?) Still in use, and works very well, probably better than most and available at surplus prices. CLP (early 1980s) been working through several formulas now for 40 years. I don't need snake oil to keep firearms running. Most of them are mineral oil based anyway and most of them are the same 3-4 ingredients. |
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Posted: 7/4/2020 1:12:31 AM EDT
[#30]
I've been using Break Free CLP for years. Bought several large spray bottles from a previous FFL years ago and just recently bought a gallon container. I also use M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner for soaking bolts, slides, etc. And finally, I like the Mil Comm TW-25B grease and MC2500 oil for precision lubrication of slides, connectors, and triggers.
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Posted: 7/10/2020 7:19:40 PM EDT
[#31]
Instead of relying upon propaganda from companies trying to sell you something, how about us taking a look at what has worked in rough conditions, PROVEN, not a sales pitch.
Apparently you have not read the article or your interpretation skills are not quite there, it's not about the oil only it's about many other things. |
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Posted: 7/10/2020 7:22:45 PM EDT
[#32]
double tap
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Posted: 7/10/2020 7:36:52 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Instead of relying upon propaganda from companies trying to sell you something, how about us taking a look at what has worked in rough conditions, PROVEN, not a sales pitch. Apparently you have not read the article or your interpretation skills are not quite there, it's not about the oil only it's about many other things. Do I need to write this in crayon for you? Companies don't put out information as a PSA, they do so to sell you a product. Propaganda and advertising follow the same formulas. I have used about every gun lube on the planet at one point or another, and I know quite a massive amount about lubricants, I work with them every day. Most gun oils differ in really the most minute ways, most actually work in the same ways, most keep the firearms working in the same ways. It's up to you do decide if you want to spend $.50 or $10 pre ounce to keep those firearms running. At that point it's really a no brainer. |
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Posted: 7/11/2020 10:48:50 AM EDT
[#34]
Just don't be like me when I first started and oil everything. I learned the hard way I went I took my shit to the BLM sand got EVERYWHERE. I live in the desert and it was a windy day.
I've used just about anything for oil, grease, cleaning. To clean in the barrel I use Breakfree CLP after a patch of Hoppes Synthetic Bore Cleaner. Stay away from harsh bore cleaners that can ruin the cerakote/anodizing. I used to oil everything, but now I only oil hard to reach parts that require it, or the barrel itself with Breakfree CLP. I switched to synthetic food grade grease a few months back and I love it. SuperLube is awesome and I would take a look if I were you. It's clear (not messy) in its store bought form, safe for your skin and contact, non toxic, etc. Heat resistance is below freezing to around 450 F. It already has micro amounts of PTFE. I mix SuperLube with Hexagonal Boron Nitride (for the extra heat resistance + lubricity properties) with Tungsten Disulfide (for the lubricity properties + corrosion resistance + leaves film coating). It turns SuperLube into a "tackier" thick grease that becomes dark (think sniper grey) so it's a little messier, but it's smooth as butter (in thin or thick coatings), and becomes way more water resistant. I didn't have the same problems with getting it mucked with dirt when I take my firearms out to shoot in the desert. I don't claim to know what's best, but the above works for me and I love it. |
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Posted: 7/13/2020 11:59:18 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Instead of relying upon propaganda from companies trying to sell you something, how about us taking a look at what has worked in rough conditions, PROVEN, not a sales pitch. Ballistol (1905) Seems to have kept 2 of the 20th Century's most combat proven armies running (WW1&2 German). Lubriplate (1942) US grease of choice from WW2 until who knows when. Kept those M1s, M14s, Thompsons, M1 Carbines, M3 grease guns, and probably everything else running until the 60s. LSA (1960s?) Still in use, and works very well, probably better than most and available at surplus prices. CLP (early 1980s) been working through several formulas now for 40 years. I don't need snake oil to keep firearms running. Most of them are mineral oil based anyway and most of them are the same 3-4 ingredients. I get where you’re coming from but a lot of advances in lubrication have been made since the grease of the 60s or the CLP of the 80s. Base stocks are better, add packages are better, hell even CLP has been through several iterations over the years. Not to mention firearm materials have also advanced and some of them have tightly fitted tolerances that won’t run right just slapping some of grandpappys grease in it. But I do agree that all the talk of “gets into the micro-pores” and such is nonsense and just marketing at its finest. |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 12:44:51 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Also don’t use grease....it’s not needed. Lubricants are an emotional topic for some gun owners so expect lots of opinions with lots of emotional arguments thrown in. Spot on but I would add that grease does have a place on sliding components, perhaps not required for the safe "queens" but proven to outperform oils under extreme (tactical, automatic) applications. I am using the Milcom system, very happy with it, zero issues. As ColtRifle noted, an emotional topic for sure. For me, what they issue, what has been proven in the field was a good starting point, I am curious about a few others noted in detail here, a lot of excellent knowledge and practical experience is shared, appreciate it all. Thanks. |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 7:15:38 PM EDT
[#37]
Hoppes #9 and Weapon Shield have always worked well for me in all my handguns. I started using CLP on the AR when I first got it, but found it a gooey mess during clean up, (probably over lubed). I switched to the Hoppes and Weapon Shield and it's been fine for me with easier cleanup. However, I've never shot more than 250 rounds in one session at the range so YMMV.
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Posted: 8/10/2020 9:16:00 PM EDT
[#38]
For all small parts (carrier, FCG, etc) I use food grade SuperLube grease. For bore cleaning I use Synthetic bore cleaner (Hoppes) followed by Breakfree CLP to protect. If it's gonna sit and not be touched for a long while, the bore will be coated with grease rather than CLP
To my understanding the Hoppes synthetic bore cleaner isn't super harmful like some of the other stuff available when it accidentally touches cerakote, silicon, anodizing, polymer, etc. Some of the other stuff is super harmful and toxic to organic and other inorganic or ceramic materials. |
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Posted: 8/10/2020 10:23:53 PM EDT
[#39]
Instead of relying upon propaganda from companies trying to sell you something, how about us taking a look at what has worked in rough conditions, PROVEN, not a sales pitch
Perhaps you need to read out instead of talking smack as it's not propaganda and it shows facts not heresy and BS. |
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Posted: 8/10/2020 10:26:15 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Instead of relying upon propaganda from companies trying to sell you something, how about us taking a look at what has worked in rough conditions, PROVEN, not a sales pitch. Ballistol (1905) Seems to have kept 2 of the 20th Century's most combat proven armies running (WW1&2 German). Lubriplate (1942) US grease of choice from WW2 until who knows when. Kept those M1s, M14s, Thompsons, M1 Carbines, M3 grease guns, and probably everything else running until the 60s. LSA (1960s?) Still in use, and works very well, probably better than most and available at surplus prices. CLP (early 1980s) been working through several formulas now for 40 years. I don't need snake oil to keep firearms running. Most of them are mineral oil based anyway and most of them are the same 3-4 ingredients. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Go to slip2000 website and read and article called filthy fourteen and you will learn much. Instead of relying upon propaganda from companies trying to sell you something, how about us taking a look at what has worked in rough conditions, PROVEN, not a sales pitch. Ballistol (1905) Seems to have kept 2 of the 20th Century's most combat proven armies running (WW1&2 German). Lubriplate (1942) US grease of choice from WW2 until who knows when. Kept those M1s, M14s, Thompsons, M1 Carbines, M3 grease guns, and probably everything else running until the 60s. LSA (1960s?) Still in use, and works very well, probably better than most and available at surplus prices. CLP (early 1980s) been working through several formulas now for 40 years. I don't need snake oil to keep firearms running. Most of them are mineral oil based anyway and most of them are the same 3-4 ingredients. Instead of crapping on other people's comments you should educate yourself and read it, your ignorance is incredible. |
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Posted: 8/11/2020 1:33:11 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Instead of crapping on other people's comments you should educate yourself and read it, your ignorance is incredible. Stop being emotional. Post what you use. Others can either take your advise or not. Most oils and cleaners work. Some MIGHT work better than others. Post your experiences and stop getting emotionally attached to oil. |
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Posted: 8/23/2020 8:34:04 PM EDT
[#42]
The article is about the rifle itself apparently you haven't read it either.
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Posted: 8/23/2020 8:35:28 PM EDT
[#43]
Are you like 2 years old?
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Posted: 8/24/2020 1:35:23 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are you like 2 years old? I have a rather extensive experience with AR15/M16 type weapons in a very wide range of climates. I’ve experimented a lot with a lot of different products. I don’t get emotionally attached to oil. What I have posted, works well for me. What others have posted, works well for them and would, no doubt, work well for me too. I just happen to like something different than some people. Some people like what I use and use the same products too. Once someone gets all emotionally bent out of shape on what oil to use or how to clean a weapon, it’s clear they really don’t know what they are talking about or are regurgitating some sort of emotional nonsense they found on the internet somewhere. I’ll say it again in case you missed it....post what you use and, if you like it, how you use it. Others will either take your advise or take someone else’s advise. Either way, it’s not a big deal. It’s really just oil. Don’t cry about it. |
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