I had two projects for today: A4 and a top end M4.

I used a SOLGW LPK for the A4, I'm unhappy with their
freaking pins. I wanta cuss at them right now.

The pin for bolt hold REALLY sucks.

I had had a difficult time driving the pin. BUT, that
pin had zero tapper to it. Here's what happened:

The pin bent when I was attempting to drive it in.
It did catch but, now it will will need fixed. I'm not impressed
with SOLGW's LPK's. I bought two of them in response
to PSA buffer retainer snapping on me.

Crap.....Now I'm only sold on CMMG and Geisselle LPK's.

ETA: That pin was NOT tapered

1: That pin is hammered dogshit.
2: I'd say the pin is hitting the bolt catch preventing forward movement.(I always use a slave pin inserted from the backside).

You should have stopped beating on it long before you did.....

I usually use a pair of slip join pliers wrapped in electrical tape to install this particular pin. Electrical tape gives it some purchase on the pin and protects the anodizing of the lower. Between that and a pilot pin, they go in a lot nicer than... well, better than with a hammer.

I only use the coil style stainless pins,they seem to work better.

Used more than a few SOLGW blaster kits and they have been excellent.

I have to agree with the first response to this thread.

Best of luck, glad PSA works for you.

Looks to me like the bolt latch hole was not properly aligned with the holes in the lower and caused the roll pin to collapse. If you look at the picture it shows the lower end of the latch is a couple of millimeters higher up (relative to the cutout in the lower) than it needs to be. After building several thousand lowers over the last five years, all the while using a slave pin, I've never had this problem. Not trying to ding you OP, but I'm going with operator error on this one bud.

I've had a couple pins that weren't tapered. I just crimped one end to get it started. Then use a set of plyers to squeeze it in.

Same here.

This right here. The never fail,none marring solution.

I just bought 2 for the opposite reason... used to use CMMG kits but the last one that same pin went in a little easier than I thought it should. I'm sure it will hold but tighter is better IMO. The SOLGW kits will be here tomorrow, I'll see how it goes.

I’ve had nothing but positive experiences with the SOLGW LPKs.

I use these for lower roll pins and they make my life so much easier. They are a little pricey but they make a lower build smooth as silk.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-12-in-Pliers-Wrench-with-Nickel-Plating-86-03-300-SBA/203202208

I do agree that it seems like you didn't have the bolt catch hole aligned with the roll pin. What I normally do is use a starter punch and punch in the roll pin enough to where it's almost going past the middle but not. Then I put in the bolt catch and lightly tap it in until I feel it catch on the hole. From there you can drive that right on in smoothly.

However, I have learned after my first build to crush the roll pin a little prior to hammering it in. What I mean is you get a plier, and simply press down on the roll pin a little so it goes in a little easier. Some LPK tend to have really oversized roll pins (or maybe the receiver itself might be a little tight or maybe both the LPK and lower). I think by crushing the roll pins a little, it makes it easier to drive in without damaging your lower or pin.

ETA: sorry took so long to get back to thread. Got real busy for a minute

This pin seemed to be a tad bigger than the previous three lowers
I've done before this one. It was not tapered and there was a extra
pin in kit as well (not tapered either).

Lesson learned to use a punch to help alignment. I did have the side of the lower covered
with heavy tape to prevent marring the lower. Otherwise, everything went together
as it should've.

Every builder's set I've used prior the pin was tapered. I have another set of the SOLGW
and that pin is not tapered. I have (3) spare sets of CMMG and their tapered.
I have a set of Geisselle awaiting my next build and it's tapered.

With the tapered pins previously, I've not had any issue with this.

Honestly, I didn't realize pin was bending until i became frustrated and
stopped to reassess what was happening.

This was a Aero lower. It's the first Aero brand I've used. Maybe tolerances stacked
against one another (pin & lower). Maybe I'll know more tomoorow; when I have
time to go visit my smith to remove that bent pin and have him install a new one.
He needs to install the RAS as well. I had hell trying to install the last set
of M5 RAS on my A2. This is last gun gun that I'll have M5 RAS installed on
so, I'll leave it to smith to install this set.

Again, lesson learned.

But, I DO know I want freaking tappered pins dammit.

@Tigwelder1971

1A) Yep, it's dogshit alright.

2A) Lesson learned using slave pin.

It seems like it should be aligned since it is in receiver
bolt catch. I was holding it down as well.

I also need a better set of punches. I've bought two sets;
one set came in that Wheeler kit and then I bought a
builders set of Real Avid and while I like it alright,
i still don't have the pin punches with the nipple on the ends.

Who has those? I just need dedicated roll pin punches.

Brownells has quality options and they will replace if you damage.

If you need a new pin call SOLGW and they will send one no charge

I have the Real avid ones as well.  The alignment tool they include helps but i prefer the holder/starter punches for some things.  Real Avid does also offer a more AR specific punch set now too

THIS one has the roll pin punches as well

Shit happens.  

Last Colt LPK that I used was the same, roll pin felt oversized and fought me even with a slave pin.

I just swapped it with another.  Thinking I'm going back to RRA LPKs, I prefer the coil/spring pins.

I usually file a nice bevel on mag release pin.  

I really like Aero Precision threaded pins. Never had an issue with one. I use a little blue loctite.

A slave pin is not needed but a little common sense is needed. You should have known your parts weren't lined up properly.