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Well, we can't be letting this bullshit stop the CQBR signal :D.
Time for an SFMB/RC Update! It's been just short of 2k rounds since switching to the SFMB and I'm finally starting to see some subtle changes in the wear pattern on the RC. Seems there's some very gradual erosion on the high points between the old 4P erosion channels, but it's very minor and it doesn't appear the "chips" where there's actual baffle penetration have enlarged despite how hard I've been running it. I originally thought I'd see some minor erosion around the bore, but it's happening so slowly that it's really only started to be apparent recently. Also kinda interesting to note that the 4P erosion channels are starting to fill up with carbon. Woo, baffle time-lapse: 13,300 (All 4P, prior to the SFMB) Attached File 14,000 Attached File 14,500 Attached File 15,000 Attached File Overall, I'm extremely happy with the switch and the reduction in erosion has surpassed any expectations I had. I've been running it much harder than I ever did with the 4P and there's barely any sign I've even been shooting it; that's pretty awesome. There are a few downsides, like carbon being blown into the locking collar threads and possibly a bit more fouling in the action, but the trade-off is more than worth it IMO. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt Looking for a taupe anodized KAC 99051 front sight. |
Originally Posted By krdt: If you guys haven't already, add AR15.com's direct IPs to your hosts file or save the IPs to go there directly. 3.138.255.236 ar15.com 3.139.193.203 ar15.com 3.20.37.167 ar15.com While they'll possibly get around to pulling the AWS hosting, it's still up and accessible directly for now. There is also: https://www.ar15-backup.com/ View Quote |
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Originally Posted By krdt: If you guys haven't already, add AR15.com's direct IPs to your hosts file or save the IPs to go there directly. 3.138.255.236 ar15.com 3.139.193.203 ar15.com 3.20.37.167 ar15.com While they'll possibly get around to pulling the AWS hosting, it's still up and accessible directly for now. There is also: https://www.ar15-backup.com/ View Quote I don't know what any of that means but |
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Without blood, it doesn't count!
"A gun, like any other source of power, is a force for good or evil, being neither in itself, but dependent upon those who possess it." |
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I don't know what any of that means but View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By krdt: If you guys haven't already, add AR15.com's direct IPs to your hosts file or save the IPs to go there directly. 3.138.255.236 ar15.com 3.139.193.203 ar15.com 3.20.37.167 ar15.com While they'll possibly get around to pulling the AWS hosting, it's still up and accessible directly for now. There is also: https://www.ar15-backup.com/ I don't know what any of that means but Open Notepad (choose "run as administrator"). You can do this by going to Search, typing "Notepad" and then right clicking on Notepad and choosing "Run As Administrator". Once in Notepad, go to File>Open; at the bottom of the window that pops up, to the right of "File Name" will be "Text Documents (*.txt)". Click the drop-down and select All Files (*.*) and navigate to: C:\Windows\System32\drivers\etc Open "hosts" and paste in the IPs/hostname as above. It'll look like this (you can add a comment as I did, or not -- comments are any line beginning with # and will be ignored/aren't part of the config file): Choose "Save" and you'll now have the DNS for ar15.com resolved locally rather than relying on your ISP DNS server or an external DNS server. This will only work as long as Arfcom still has an active host at those IPs. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt Looking for a taupe anodized KAC 99051 front sight. |
Originally Posted By krdt: Open Notepad (choose "run as administrator"). You can do this by going to Search, typing "Notepad" and then right clicking on Notepad and choosing "Run As Administrator". Once in Notepad, go to File>Open; at the bottom of the window that pops up, to the right of "File Name" will be "Text Documents (*.txt)". Click the drop-down and select All Files (*.*) and navigate to: C:\Windows\System32\drivers\etc Open "hosts" and paste in the IPs/hostname as above. It'll look like this (you can add a comment as I did, or not -- comments are any line beginning with # and will be ignored/aren't part of the config file): https://www.ar15-backup.com/media/mediaFiles/72167/hosts_example_jpg-1775386.JPG Choose "Save" and you'll now have the DNS for ar15.com resolved locally rather than relying on your ISP DNS server or an external DNS server. This will only work as long as Arfcom still has an active host at those IPs. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By krdt: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By krdt: If you guys haven't already, add AR15.com's direct IPs to your hosts file or save the IPs to go there directly. 3.138.255.236 ar15.com 3.139.193.203 ar15.com 3.20.37.167 ar15.com While they'll possibly get around to pulling the AWS hosting, it's still up and accessible directly for now. There is also: https://www.ar15-backup.com/ I don't know what any of that means but Open Notepad (choose "run as administrator"). You can do this by going to Search, typing "Notepad" and then right clicking on Notepad and choosing "Run As Administrator". Once in Notepad, go to File>Open; at the bottom of the window that pops up, to the right of "File Name" will be "Text Documents (*.txt)". Click the drop-down and select All Files (*.*) and navigate to: C:\Windows\System32\drivers\etc Open "hosts" and paste in the IPs/hostname as above. It'll look like this (you can add a comment as I did, or not -- comments are any line beginning with # and will be ignored/aren't part of the config file): https://www.ar15-backup.com/media/mediaFiles/72167/hosts_example_jpg-1775386.JPG Choose "Save" and you'll now have the DNS for ar15.com resolved locally rather than relying on your ISP DNS server or an external DNS server. This will only work as long as Arfcom still has an active host at those IPs. Again |
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Without blood, it doesn't count!
"A gun, like any other source of power, is a force for good or evil, being neither in itself, but dependent upon those who possess it." |
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Originally Posted By krdt: Choose "Save" and you'll now have the DNS for ar15.com resolved locally rather than relying on your ISP DNS server or an external DNS server. This will only work as long as Arfcom still has an active host at those IPs. View Quote Just do this, as well as for those places that are critical to YOU. Don't go nuts with your hostfile; making it too big will defeat the purpose. But consider that 2 of the most ginormous DNS servers in use belong to Google, this is a sound precaution. And resolving to those places will run like a turpentined cat. |
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Originally Posted By krdt: Open Notepad (choose "run as administrator"). You can do this by going to Search, typing "Notepad" and then right clicking on Notepad and choosing "Run As Administrator". Once in Notepad, go to File>Open; at the bottom of the window that pops up, to the right of "File Name" will be "Text Documents (*.txt)". Click the drop-down and select All Files (*.*) and navigate to: C:\Windows\System32\drivers\etc Open "hosts" and paste in the IPs/hostname as above. It'll look like this (you can add a comment as I did, or not -- comments are any line beginning with # and will be ignored/aren't part of the config file): https://www.ar15-backup.com/media/mediaFiles/72167/hosts_example_jpg-1775386.JPG Choose "Save" and you'll now have the DNS for ar15.com resolved locally rather than relying on your ISP DNS server or an external DNS server. This will only work as long as Arfcom still has an active host at those IPs. View Quote Thank you!! |
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What we do in life echoes in eternity.
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Originally Posted By Badger52: I know "not tech" but given events today most relevant. And better than a pic of a CQBR Burro. Just do this, as well as for those places that are critical to YOU. Don't go nuts with your hostfile; making it too big will defeat the purpose. But consider that 2 of the most ginormous DNS servers in use belong to Google, this is a sound precaution. And resolving to those places will run like a turpentined cat. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Badger52: Originally Posted By krdt: Choose "Save" and you'll now have the DNS for ar15.com resolved locally rather than relying on your ISP DNS server or an external DNS server. This will only work as long as Arfcom still has an active host at those IPs. Just do this, as well as for those places that are critical to YOU. Don't go nuts with your hostfile; making it too big will defeat the purpose. But consider that 2 of the most ginormous DNS servers in use belong to Google, this is a sound precaution. And resolving to those places will run like a turpentined cat. Whoa, whoa, whoa... let's not start talking crazy :\. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt Looking for a taupe anodized KAC 99051 front sight. |
@krdt
looks like you have a way to go. he is holding a mk18 with an elcan for the majority of this video 80,000 ROUND SUPPRESSOR REVIEW (Spec Op's suppressor) Surefire SOCOM RC |
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Originally Posted By JLAudio: @krdt looks like you have a way to go. he is holding a mk18 with an elcan for the majority of this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0z93mBtECA View Quote |
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Who said that?
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Originally Posted By FONTY: I picked up 1 of those surplus DD MK18 rebuild kits. Included parts Barrel Bolt MK12 gb Gas tube Firing pin Retaining pin https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/236598/4E476B32-3B3D-4DCD-9D99-528D386439C4_jpe-1768615.JPG View Quote Nice How much were these surplus kits? Anymore coming? |
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Originally Posted By krdt: Well, we can't be letting this bullshit stop the CQBR signal :D. Time for an SFMB/RC Update! It's been just short of 2k rounds since switching to the SFMB and I'm finally starting to see some subtle changes in the wear pattern on the RC. Seems there's some very gradual erosion on the high points between the old 4P erosion channels, but it's very minor and it doesn't appear the "chips" where there's actual baffle penetration have enlarged despite how hard I've been running it. I originally thought I'd see some minor erosion around the bore, but it's happening so slowly that it's really only started to be apparent recently. Also kinda interesting to note that the 4P erosion channels are starting to fill up with carbon. Woo, baffle time-lapse: 13,300 (All 4P, prior to the SFMB) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/72167/CQBR_091520_RC_Baffle_13300-RSC-01_jpg-1775307.JPG 14,000 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/72167/CQBR_112120_RC_Baffle_14000-RS-05_jpg-1775311.JPG 14,500 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/72167/CQBR_122520_RC_Baffle_14432-RS-03_jpg-1775313.JPG 15,000 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/72167/CQBR_010921_RC_Baffle_15000-RS-06_jpg-1775315.JPG Overall, I'm extremely happy with the switch and the reduction in erosion has surpassed any expectations I had. I've been running it much harder than I ever did with the 4P and there's barely any sign I've even been shooting it; that's pretty awesome. There are a few downsides, like carbon being blown into the locking collar threads and possibly a bit more fouling in the action, but the trade-off is more than worth it IMO. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By JLAudio: @krdt looks like you have a way to go. he is holding a mk18 with an elcan for the majority of this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0z93mBtECA View Quote Yeah, I saw it; pretty disappointing if I'm being honest. A very generic review with surprisingly few observations of interest and startingly little info/data provided as a result of hitting such a high round count. No mention of what sort of erosion he had by 40k or how many baffles he'd penetrated by the time he elected to rebuild (if used hard with mostly pronged mounts, I'd be very surprised if he hadn't burned through multiple baffles by 40k). No observations on performance loss over the life of the can from erosion and/or carbon accumulation, how often he was cleaning it (or the method), nor any mention of if/when he reached a point he was unable to remove a satisfactory amount of carbon/copper accumulation. Hell, not even an explanation of what finally motivated him to rebuild -- I'm assuming accumulation, but even that isn't made entirely clear. Aside from the few passing references to the 80k total and rebuilding at 40k -- a number I consider nearly meaningless since it isn't accompanied by any other relevant data -- the high round count was basically immaterial to the content of the video. I expected he'd have at least one or two interesting insights gleaned as a result of reaching the end of the life of the can nearly twice over; but apparently not. Not to toot my own horn, but I'd submit that I've put out significantly more hard data and useful information after 15k than his review at 80k. I realize not everyone is as interested in detailed data as I am, but it seems almost ridiculous to make a big deal of doing a review at 80k and then only provide generic information without a single meaningful observation on long-term wear or performance. What's the point? All in all, he could've done the same review after 2-3k and it wouldn't have made any significant difference. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt Looking for a taupe anodized KAC 99051 front sight. |
Originally Posted By krdt: Yeah, I saw it; pretty disappointing if I'm being honest. A very generic review with surprisingly few observations of interest and startingly little info/data provided as a result of hitting such a high round count. No mention of what sort of erosion he had by 40k or how many baffles he'd penetrated by the time he elected to rebuild (if used hard with mostly pronged mounts, I'd be very surprised if he hadn't burned through multiple baffles by 40k). No observations on performance loss over the life of the can from erosion and/or carbon accumulation, how often he was cleaning it (or the method), nor any mention of if/when he reached a point he was unable to remove a satisfactory amount of carbon/copper accumulation. Hell, not even an explanation of what finally motivated him to rebuild -- I'm assuming accumulation, but even that isn't made entirely clear. Aside from the few passing references to the 80k total and rebuilding at 40k -- a number I consider nearly meaningless since it isn't accompanied by any other relevant data -- the high round count was basically immaterial to the content of the video. I expected he'd have at least one or two interesting insights gleaned as a result of reaching the end of the life of the can nearly twice over; but apparently not. Not to toot my own horn, but I'd submit that I've put out significantly more hard data and useful information after 15k than his review at 80k. I realize not everyone is as interested in detailed data as I am, but it seems almost ridiculous to make a big deal of doing a review at 80k and then only provide generic information without a single meaningful observation on long-term wear or performance. What's the point? All in all, he could've done the same review after 2-3k and it wouldn't have made any significant difference. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By FailureToFun: Have you seen a difference in back pressure, gas to to the face, and a change to your recoil impulse after changing muzzle devices? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By FailureToFun: Originally Posted By krdt: Well, we can't be letting this bullshit stop the CQBR signal :D. Time for an SFMB/RC Update! It's been just short of 2k rounds since switching to the SFMB and I'm finally starting to see some subtle changes in the wear pattern on the RC. Seems there's some very gradual erosion on the high points between the old 4P erosion channels, but it's very minor and it doesn't appear the "chips" where there's actual baffle penetration have enlarged despite how hard I've been running it. I originally thought I'd see some minor erosion around the bore, but it's happening so slowly that it's really only started to be apparent recently. Also kinda interesting to note that the 4P erosion channels are starting to fill up with carbon. Woo, baffle time-lapse: 13,300 (All 4P, prior to the SFMB) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/72167/CQBR_091520_RC_Baffle_13300-RSC-01_jpg-1775307.JPG 14,000 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/72167/CQBR_112120_RC_Baffle_14000-RS-05_jpg-1775311.JPG 14,500 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/72167/CQBR_122520_RC_Baffle_14432-RS-03_jpg-1775313.JPG 15,000 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/72167/CQBR_010921_RC_Baffle_15000-RS-06_jpg-1775315.JPG Overall, I'm extremely happy with the switch and the reduction in erosion has surpassed any expectations I had. I've been running it much harder than I ever did with the 4P and there's barely any sign I've even been shooting it; that's pretty awesome. There are a few downsides, like carbon being blown into the locking collar threads and possibly a bit more fouling in the action, but the trade-off is more than worth it IMO. Gas to the face, no; changes to recoil impulse, no. It's possible there might be a minor increase in backpressure fouling in the action, but I'm starting to doubt that and think it was almost entirely a result of ammo. Unfortunately, the MD switch corresponded exactly with me switching from 55gr to 62gr bullets and a higher pressure powder charge, which made any initial observations pretty useless. I did have some issues with my safety locking up and the BCG coming close due to hard carbon fouling (which had never been an issue prior to switching), but I've since lowered my powder charge and the issue has disappeared. I put 400rds through it a couple of days ago and fouling was no more than usual prior to the switch. The main difference that stands out at this point is carbon getting into the locking ring threads. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt Looking for a taupe anodized KAC 99051 front sight. |
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So has anyone run into any issues w/ surplus uppers? It seems there has been allot of them flooding the market and I have an opportunity to snag a pretty cool / rare one so I was just wondering. Maybe @Combat_Diver can shed some light on the process of these upper parts becoming surplus?
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Originally Posted By LsuJon: So has anyone run into any issues w/ surplus uppers? It seems there has been allot of them flooding the market and I have an opportunity to snag a pretty cool / rare one so I was just wondering. Maybe @Combat_Figer can shed some light on the process of these upper parts becoming surplus? View Quote I dunno about @Combat_Figer, but perhaps @Combat_Diver can weigh in |
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Originally Posted By Badger52: So basically just something that becomes another routine PM task, yes? (non-can owner here) View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Badger52: Originally Posted By krdt:The main difference that stands out at this point is carbon getting into the locking ring threads. Yep, pretty much. A slight bit of a pain because you have to pull the collar apart to clean the threads, but not a terribly big deal. I'm sure if you left it long enough it'd start to be an issue and require a strap wrench to loosen the collar. So far, I've been pulling it apart and sticking the base in the ultrasonic with the collar removed when it starts getting noticeably sticky. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt Looking for a taupe anodized KAC 99051 front sight. |
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Originally Posted By LsuJon: So has anyone run into any issues w/ surplus uppers? It seems there has been allot of them flooding the market and I have an opportunity to snag a pretty cool / rare one so I was just wondering. Maybe @Combat_Diver can shed some light on the process of these upper parts becoming surplus? View Quote I haven’t heard on what Crane is doing. All my excess goes back to Crane. CD |
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De Oppresso Liber
Iraq: 91,03,04,05,06,08,09,15&16' Afghanistan: 09,10,11',14',17',18',19',20'&21' |
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De Oppresso Liber
Iraq: 91,03,04,05,06,08,09,15&16' Afghanistan: 09,10,11',14',17',18',19',20'&21' |
Originally Posted By LsuJon: So has anyone run into any issues w/ surplus uppers? It seems there has been allot of them flooding the market and I have an opportunity to snag a pretty cool / rare one so I was just wondering. Maybe @Combat_Diver can shed some light on the process of these upper parts becoming surplus? View Quote Where are you all sourcing the surplus ones from mainly? Not your specific rare one but in general |
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Originally Posted By JohnnyUtah427: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50818375916_b76df6efdc_c.jpg View Quote Very nice |
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Those who would give up essential liberty, to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety
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Where are yall getting these surplus kits?
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Attached File
The placement of these numbers seem off (too far forward), has anyone seen anything that would suggest these weren't an attempt to make normal uppers look legit/cooler? Edit: specifically looking at the top upper there seems to be something blotted out where the numbers are typically found |
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Originally Posted By julyAZ: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/cd558451d7ad79655d841beae16f0a75.jpg View Quote Attached File |
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I should have my stamp for my Surefire Socom RC very soon (hopefully). While messing around on Youtube, I came across this video
Suppressor Bore Alignment Rods I'm kind of annoyed that I have to spend $70 on a single steel rod after I just bought the suppressor, a surefire flash hider, a reaction rod, and paid for a stamp. Are these bore rods necessary, or is this just one more thing for Surefire peddle? Thank you in advance. |
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Originally Posted By LsuJon: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/316069/7F17C9FC-677B-4CFB-AC55-EE3559424F0B_jpe-1777902.JPG The placement of these numbers seem off (too far forward), has anyone seen anything that would suggest these weren't an attempt to make normal uppers look legit/cooler? Edit: specifically looking at the top upper there seems to be something blotted out where the numbers are typically found View Quote Thought the same thing. Placement is off, font is off, Missing UID (which could have come off) and within this serial range they are FN uppers |
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Originally Posted By rcfallen: Thought the same thing. Placement is off, font is off, Missing UID (which could have come off) and within this serial range they are FN uppers View Quote |
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Originally Posted By LsuJon: Is there a place to check serial number ranges? I always thought that the numbers were matched to the lowers. View Quote Not that I'm aware. I dont think the serials match the lowers either. Unless you have heard different. I think its just a sequential number assigned as they are assembled and inspected. |
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Originally Posted By rcfallen: Not that I'm aware. I dont think the serials match the lowers either. Unless you have heard different. I think its just a sequential number assigned as they are assembled and inspected. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By StowaNewb: I should have my stamp for my Surefire Socom RC very soon (hopefully). While messing around on Youtube, I came across this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktwt-6J-Zro I'm kind of annoyed that I have to spend $70 on a single steel rod after I just bought the suppressor, a surefire flash hider, a reaction rod, and paid for a stamp. Are these bore rods necessary, or is this just one more thing for Surefire peddle? Thank you in advance. View Quote Most new production barrels should have concentric threads unless you bought some no name bottom of the barrel, barrel. Make sure your muzzle device is properly threaded on and the shims mate to the shoulder of the barrel all the the way around and you should be good. I have several suppressors and have never used a rod. I use 3 methods to double check before shooting for the first time. 1. remove the upper from the lower, mount suppressor, look down the business end and you should be able to see clearly from the suppressor all the way out the back of the receiver. No half moon or obstruction, should be a complete circle. 2. Same as above but from the receiver end down through the suppressor - perfect circle. 3. Place the upper on the lower, lock the bolt back and shine a flashlight from the suppressor end cap and it should project a perfect circle on the bolt face. Again, no half moon, a perfect circle. 4. Buy a couple boxes of ammo with the $70. |
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Originally Posted By StowaNewb: I should have my stamp for my Surefire Socom RC very soon (hopefully). While messing around on Youtube, I came across this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktwt-6J-Zro I'm kind of annoyed that I have to spend $70 on a single steel rod after I just bought the suppressor, a surefire flash hider, a reaction rod, and paid for a stamp. Are these bore rods necessary, or is this just one more thing for Surefire peddle? Thank you in advance. View Quote I only do a visual inspection. Attach the can, remove the BCG, and hold the upper up to a light background looking down the bore from the rear. Any serious misalignment is going to be immediately apparent as described above, i.e. a visible 1/4-1/2 moon. However, you also want to look for any less obvious misalignment by visually centering the bore and then slowly moving the rear of the upper to the right, back to center, to the left, back to the center, and so on; then the same up and down. Even if you have no indication of an obstruction when centered, you still want to verify one side isn't noticeably closer to the center than the other (you can still have misalignment short of a full-on visible obstruction). You can also look from the muzzle end and verify the bore is centered inside the can -- again you don't want it to be biased more or less in any direction. To summarize, I don't feel alignment rods are really necessary, but I suppose it comes down to how much faith you have in the calibration of your Mk-1 Eyeball. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt Looking for a taupe anodized KAC 99051 front sight. |
Originally Posted By rcfallen: Thought the same thing. Placement is off, font is off, Missing UID (which could have come off) and within this serial range they are FN uppers View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By rcfallen: Originally Posted By LsuJon: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/316069/7F17C9FC-677B-4CFB-AC55-EE3559424F0B_jpe-1777902.JPG The placement of these numbers seem off (too far forward), has anyone seen anything that would suggest these weren't an attempt to make normal uppers look legit/cooler? Edit: specifically looking at the top upper there seems to be something blotted out where the numbers are typically found Thought the same thing. Placement is off, font is off, Missing UID (which could have come off) and within this serial range they are FN uppers Have seen a couple with that number placement. Edit: Don't think the bottom pic has the forward number placement |
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Originally Posted By thelegend1: Have seen a couple with that number placement. Edit: Don't think the bottom pic has the forward number placement https://i.postimg.cc/768QDGFc/FB-IMG-1594317833540.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/L66QHMWH/VZrJyam.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By thelegend1: Originally Posted By rcfallen: Originally Posted By LsuJon: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/316069/7F17C9FC-677B-4CFB-AC55-EE3559424F0B_jpe-1777902.JPG The placement of these numbers seem off (too far forward), has anyone seen anything that would suggest these weren't an attempt to make normal uppers look legit/cooler? Edit: specifically looking at the top upper there seems to be something blotted out where the numbers are typically found Thought the same thing. Placement is off, font is off, Missing UID (which could have come off) and within this serial range they are FN uppers Have seen a couple with that number placement. Edit: Don't think the bottom pic has the forward number placement https://i.postimg.cc/768QDGFc/FB-IMG-1594317833540.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/L66QHMWH/VZrJyam.jpg |
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Originally Posted By thelegend1: Have seen a couple with that number placement. Edit: Don't think the bottom pic has the forward number placement https://i.postimg.cc/768QDGFc/FB-IMG-1594317833540.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/L66QHMWH/VZrJyam.jpg View Quote |
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Originally Posted By thelegend1: Have seen a couple with that number placement. Edit: Don't think the bottom pic has the forward number placement https://i.postimg.cc/768QDGFc/FB-IMG-1594317833540.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/L66QHMWH/VZrJyam.jpg View Quote Haven't seen those pics before, good find! Font is still not the same though on the uppers in question. Doesn't seem as thick |
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Attached File
Attached File Attached File Navy guns from 16' Todays range training, 600 rds of 5.56 and 260 rds of 9mm Attached File CD |
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De Oppresso Liber
Iraq: 91,03,04,05,06,08,09,15&16' Afghanistan: 09,10,11',14',17',18',19',20'&21' |
Originally Posted By Combat_Diver: Todays range training, 600 rds of 5.56 and 260 rds of 9mm https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32677/IMG_3879_jpg-1778791.JPG CD View Quote Jeez, that’s like $700 worth of ammo here stateside right now. |
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Originally Posted By StowaNewb: I should have my stamp for my Surefire Socom RC very soon (hopefully). While messing around on Youtube, I came across this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktwt-6J-Zro I'm kind of annoyed that I have to spend $70 on a single steel rod after I just bought the suppressor, a surefire flash hider, a reaction rod, and paid for a stamp. Are these bore rods necessary, or is this just one more thing for Surefire peddle? Thank you in advance. View Quote You don't have to spend $70. Get one from McMaster-Carr for $5.12. The other ones are a scam. 8893K193 Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod, 0.2188" Diameter, 3 Feet Long 1 $5.12 *ETA: if anyone wants the size for .300 BLK: 8893K219 Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod, 0.2969" Diameter, 3 Feet Long 1 $6.67 |
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