I came into this super skeptical because there's a lot of "miracle products like Dyna-Tek Bore Coat/Gunshield, Sweetshooter, and Frog Lube. Whole the first two actually show promise, and appear to work, if slightly (I've used both), Micron Gun Juice seems to be worth the squeeze.

Treating:
1. Clean product really well, and remove all copper and carbon, make sure free of all oil (using alcohol or non chlorinated brake cleaner)
2. Heat metal part (don't let it touch metal or polymer). I heated to around 240F - 300Fish
3. Shake the bottle really well
4. Wet patch, bore mop, or bore swab type applicators
5. Apply to metal surface, if it's still warm then it will almost instantly dry the film
6. Take heat gun to surface and watch it dry quickly
7. Repeat 4 - 10 times

Claims:
1. One time treatment
2. Leaves behind a super slippery film
3. Improves accuracy and consistency
4. Increases muzzle velocity
5. Prevents rust and corrosion
6. Will be thermally stable until 725F

My Observations:
1. Too soon to tell
2. This is true, and is apparent after about 2 or 3 coats
3. On BRN180s 10.5" I saw a 0.3 MOA improvement out of 50 rounds with about 2 minutes between 5 shot groupings
4. I don't have the tool to measure velocity
5. Too soon to tell, didn't test
6. Cranked my heat gun to 650F, didn't burn of melt off

Other Observations:
- Appears to be resin based
- Completely free of copper deposits in barrel, using bore scope to check
- Extremely easy to apply and reapply, just time consuming
- Drys at around 200Fish and dries quickly
- Doesn't smell like it contains isopropyl alcohol like Dyna-Tek (ceramic) products
- Used < 1/3 of the bottle and coated 4 rifles barrels, a suppressor, and a BRN180 BCG
- The BRN180 complete BCG and barrel extension were semi-glossish prior to coating (after cleaning) but after a few coats, you could visible see and feel a dry film that felt slipperyish. The visible aspect made whatever color the surface was, more "flat" and "cloudy"
- BRN180 became noticeably easier to charge
- Only about 150 rounds through the suppressor, never fired previously, could simply wipe off the carbon

Final thoughts:
I think it works. The fact that the BRN180 carrier and bolt look and feel so different is extremely impressive, along with the slight accuracy improvement. I'm very surprised at this product. I can post pictures of the bores, carrier, and bolt, but I think it would be a little more difficult to notice in pics than with eyes. Bore would be hard to gauge. While I haven't tested for corrosion, velocity, or longevity, I think this treatment is awesome and will likely coat all my bores. Coating uppers might prove useful too.

https://microlon.com/collections/guns/products/microlon-gun-juice

Interesting, but not interested.   Froglube had similar claims.  It was trash, I know cause I bought the trash.

Miltec 1?

Agreed. . .but Frog Lube was a CLP. This is a treatment and is not meant to be a lube. It is completely dry when you cure it. When it's not heated, it's obviously wet. However it's meant to be cured. Not curing it would be like using Cerakote without baking

What does this gain me over the usual brush and patch cleaning?


How do you apply this stuff to the barrel and heat it appropriately without pulling the hand guard?

Heating metal to “soak in” lube is truly snake oil level garbage.

It's not lube.

The internal diameter of the barrel gets heated (ie bore), not the external.

LoL !
Wrong...
By heating the metal, it de-gasses, and as the metal cools, what ever you are treating with is pulled into the pores in the metal.

May have to give it a try.
Thanks ahrion.

Look I'm not a shill for these products, but I'm amazed at the facts that you can both see and feel the difference. Its too early to tell about the claims made to the bore so I'll hold off on that opinion on that and longevity. However if you treat it on clean (degreased/dry) products and heat you will see and feel a difference in whatever is treated and will see the resin dry before your eyes in the "dull" and "ashy" hue.

@ahrion
I'm in the beginning of a new build, and will be breaking in the barrel before doing this.
The barrel will be an interference fit, which would require heating the receiver to take it apart.
Instead of disturbing the barrel/receiver fitment, I am going to try heating the barrel from the inside using my industrial heat gun with the tip necked down to the chamber diameter, and blowing hot air through the bore until 250°-300° temp is reached.
Will let you know how it works out.

Lol.