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Posted: 4/30/2019 9:21:47 PM EDT
[#1]
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Posted: 4/30/2019 9:29:04 PM EDT
[#2]
Synthetic motor oil, froglube, slip 2000 ewl, cherrybalmz.
Many other great options as well. I personally use Mobil 1. My old ladies car uses just shy of a 5qt jug for an oil change, so I use the rest on the guns. |
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Posted: 4/30/2019 9:36:27 PM EDT
[#3]
I have been using this. Slicker than goose crap and stays put.
I also have this and it works great too. 
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Posted: 4/30/2019 9:48:44 PM EDT
[#4]
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Posted: 4/30/2019 11:28:00 PM EDT
[#5]
The flash point of the current Breakfree CLP is very low. Ballistol and hoppes original gun oil also have very low flash points and don't last long.
For oil, I like Corrosion-X or Super Lube Multi-purpose oil. For most of the high heat, high wear areas on an AR, you may want to try grease. For grease, I like Super Lube grease. |
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Posted: 4/30/2019 11:41:57 PM EDT
[#6]
I'll catch shit for this, but I've had great luck with Froglube.
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Posted: 5/1/2019 1:25:15 AM EDT
[#7]
Only 100 rounds? How thin are you applying it?
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Posted: 5/1/2019 10:04:46 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Only 100 rounds? How thin are you applying it? Like I said I get it pretty hot. |
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Posted: 5/1/2019 6:23:04 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'll catch shit for this, but I've had great luck with Froglube. |
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Posted: 5/2/2019 12:19:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Been running Rotella T6 and it stays wet. Then again I've never had much problem with CLP going dry within a hundred rounds either.
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Posted: 5/2/2019 12:20:15 PM EDT
[#11]
I have no problems going 500 rounds in a day with a single application of CLP. Usually that gun has sat for weeks since it was cleaned and lubed last.
If you really want to try something different then Slip 2000, Cherrybalmz, ALG go juice, lithium grease, synthetic motor oil etc all work. |
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Posted: 5/2/2019 3:21:51 PM EDT
[#12]
I use Magnalube and I've only had to re-lube the BCG just to satisfy my own OCD-tendencies. It'll easily go 500 rds. before needing to be reapplied.
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Posted: 5/4/2019 5:55:12 AM EDT
[#13]
I like either Breakfree LP ( Not their clp).
Or Slip EWL. I lube my AR's before I go to the range and they stay wet and run fine all day. And I have done 200 rounds in 100 degree temps. |
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Posted: 5/4/2019 11:56:48 PM EDT
[#14]
I don’t think you are really having a issue. 100 rounds is nothing. Even full auto a spray of just about anything will do. I should suppressed most of time and use weapon shield or g96 with out drying up in 100 rounds.
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Posted: 5/5/2019 11:09:10 AM EDT
[#15]
M-pro 7 LPX is great stuff I have gone through 6-700 rounds before reapplication during an intense carbine course. It’s about all I use now.
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Posted: 6/9/2019 2:44:01 PM EDT
[#16]
Froglube is crap, only lube that ever caused FTFs in my ARs.
Synthetic motor oil works and is cheap. Or Lucas gun oil, Slip 2k. |
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Posted: 6/9/2019 3:04:18 PM EDT
[#17]
I have had good results with Froglube, but having to heat up the parts to melt it in first, then wiping all the parts down again is a pain. I used it on an 6.5 Grendel gas gun when the high temperature for the day was 22 degrees F. I didn't have a single malfunction.
However, OP was asking about lube burning off, and at 22 degrees F, there is a greater concern for lube getting too thick and making the action sluggish, rather than burning off. Recently, I have been using a mixture of synthetic motor oil, synthetic transmission fluid, and synthetic grease from the auto shop. I mix the oil and transmission fluid 50/50, then add grease until I get the viscosity I want. Having a thicker oil causes it to remain in place longer. My rationale was that motor oil and transmission fluid are designed to operate at high temperatures and pressures, and those environments are very similar to what goes on inside a firearm. So far, it has worked great. |
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Posted: 6/9/2019 3:28:14 PM EDT
[#18]
CherryBalmz
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Posted: 6/9/2019 4:20:54 PM EDT
[#19]
For $5 go to Tractor Supply and buy Super S 00 NLGI cotton picker spindle/ corn head grease.
Lithium based, corrosion inhibited, stays in thick phase until warmed, will still lube well below freezing. You get a quart I believe for $5. |
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Posted: 6/9/2019 9:04:08 PM EDT
[#20]
I've become quite the fan of Cherrybalmz. Use it on all my AR's now. My test rifle went over 1000 rds without adding lube with no issues and lube still in place. I'm sure it would have gone further but that's my break down and check parts point.
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Posted: 6/9/2019 10:14:26 PM EDT
[#21]
I have just north of 3,000 rounds through my BCM middy, and have only used Slip 2000 EWL or Lubriplate oil and grease. I learned of the Slip 2000 EWL from Pat Rogers (RIP), and all his writings and video's. He see's a lot of AR's that are actually put through harsh firing schedules, and founds S2000 to work well. I've had no FTF or FTE's in the life of the rifle. Also, make sure on an AR to keep that sucker lubed. AR's will run with almost no cleaning if you keep it lubed. Cheers!
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Posted: 6/10/2019 10:16:53 AM EDT
[#22]
I'd like to know what OP is doing to mess up CLP...
Where is it drying up? On the lugs? Cam pin? Bolt tail? Carrier rails? |
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Posted: 6/10/2019 7:06:03 PM EDT
[#23]
The original - LSA or LSA-T
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Posted: 7/16/2019 2:19:51 PM EDT
[#24]
Mobile One Synthetic gear oil. 90w
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Posted: 7/17/2019 11:31:17 AM EDT
[#25]
Mobil 1 in 5/30. Have used it for years on every weapon I own.
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Posted: 7/18/2019 11:28:13 PM EDT
[#26]
FWIW
Flash points (ºF): Mil-Comm TW2500 (475), TW3000 (475), TW25B (475)- all the same except consistency; Mobil 1 (392), Slip 2000 EWL (390), Lucas Extreme Duty Gun oil c zinc(415), Lucas Original Gun oil (425) |
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Posted: 7/18/2019 11:47:01 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
FWIW Flash points (ºF): Mil-Comm TW2500 (475), TW3000 (475), TW25B (475)- all the same except consistency; Mobil 1 (392), Slip 2000 EWL (390), Lucas Extreme Duty Gun oil c zinc(415), Lucas Original Gun oil (425) |
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Posted: 7/18/2019 11:52:40 PM EDT
[#28]
SuperLube grease is what works for me. I take a Q-tip and smear a light film on all the contact points. The teflon stay put even after the grease is gone.
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Posted: 7/20/2019 7:44:17 AM EDT
[#29]
Mobil 1 full synthetic.
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Posted: 7/22/2019 6:35:09 AM EDT
[#30]
Compared to CLP any of the synthetic motor oils will just about exactly double the interval past which the gun chokes. Whether that matters just depends on whether you have time to spray more lube. Lately using Rotella 5W-40 syn. Grease works fine, too, but is messier and slower to remove and reapply vs oil.
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Posted: 8/10/2019 1:02:02 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CherryBalmz |
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Posted: 8/11/2019 3:13:24 PM EDT
[#32]
I use Breakfree LP; its more viscous, stays put, and lasts a lot longer since it contains no cleaning solvents.
I've been using it for a very long time and I shoot a lot; it works. |
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Posted: 8/13/2019 4:54:05 PM EDT
[#33]
I use Mobil 1 bearing grease as a lube it stays put and when it turns from the pinkish red color to sludgy black it is time to towel off and refresh.
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Posted: 8/13/2019 5:11:02 PM EDT
[#34]
I made up a mix of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil and transmission fluid (50/50), but it was still a little too runny and wouldn't "stay put". So I started mixing it with some synthetic automotive grease until I got the viscosity (thickness) I wanted. So far, the new lube I made up is working great. It stays put, doesn't run out of the rifle or pistol.
The most rounds I have fired at one time was about 400 rounds of 45acp at a practice session, and the lube was still there, and still working fine at the end of the practice session. Sure, it was dirty, but after 400 rounds or so I would be surprised if it wasn't dirty. |
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Posted: 8/13/2019 5:41:18 PM EDT
[#35]
Magnalube G.
Dupont Krytox. |
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Posted: 8/13/2019 10:41:06 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I made up a mix of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil and transmission fluid (50/50), but it was still a little too runny and wouldn't "stay put". So I started mixing it with some synthetic automotive grease until I got the viscosity (thickness) I wanted. So far, the new lube I made up is working great. It stays put, doesn't run out of the rifle or pistol.  
I use to lube with high temp wheel bearing grease and clean with Ed's red, which is mixture of ATF, Kerosene and Mineral spirits. The high temp wheel bearing grease worked OK as a lube but I couldn't stand how sticky and stinky it was. The Ed's red is an OK cleaner but I got real tired, real quick, of the smell. I shoot too often and clean my guns indoors too often to keep using any of that stinky crap. I now use Super lube grease for lube and Mpro-7 to clean and my nose and guns are much happier. Both of these products work much better and are listed as non toxic, which is nice. I can't imagine the smelly automotive stuff was doing my brain cells any good. Plus it always seemed to get into the little cuts and scrapes my fingers always seem to have... No thanks. |
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Posted: 8/16/2019 7:40:24 PM EDT
[#37]
Super lube grease.
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Posted: 8/16/2019 9:49:02 PM EDT
[#38]
The problem with Breakfree CLP that a lot of folks don't know is that they changed their formula to comply with the military's demand to remove PTFE products. As such, Breakfree CLP of the 90s and 00s was extremely good and something I would recommend. Not anymore. I do believe the solvent in CLP is still as good as it was because I've used the new formula for a while but I always put some sort of automotive grease on it.
If you're fixed on CLP products, try something called G96 which is still a military product and it seems to work much better than Breakfree. Just don't ever mix CLP as it will turn into sticky glue. The ultimate CLP-ish product is the Slip 2000 EWL. This stuff will stay wet forever and ever and it works somewhat well as a cleaner but it was never meant for heavy duty cleaning. Now as far as what I would recommend and a lot of folks here is currently recommending is to use grease. Any sort of grease will do that you can find in the auto store but I highly recommend some gun specific like Tetra and TW25b. You can still use CLP and put a dab of Tetra, TW25b, or grease from the auto store. It will mix fairly well so long as you make a good effort to clean the surface with a clean rag before applying grease to it. |
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Posted: 8/16/2019 10:00:07 PM EDT
[#39]
Wheel bearing grease. I prefer the Lucas red n tacky myself. I don't think any of my guns have ever been dry even after thousands of rounds.
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Posted: 8/16/2019 11:02:27 PM EDT
[#40]
I tried out some Lucas gun grease with my latest build and it seems to last pretty well. I put some on the wear points of the BCG and ran about 300 rounds of m855 and 193 through it within an hour and it looked like I had just lubed it when done.
Obviously not long term tested but I am happy with it. As far as the red and tacky, when I called the technical guy at Lucas he didnt reccommend it for guns because of all the different additives and copper in it I believe. |
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Posted: 8/17/2019 1:50:42 PM EDT
[#41]
Slip 2000 ewl 30
And slip grease |
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Posted: 8/22/2019 12:45:42 PM EDT
[#42]
I've been using CorrosionX and have had very good success with it. It gives great rust protection and has not burned off on me yet for a typical range session. I use it on my pistols and after 300 rounds it's still there. I've used in on my rifles and after 200 rounds it's still there. It is thicker then CLP.
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Posted: 8/23/2019 1:03:14 AM EDT
[#43]
For those who advocate grease, everything I have read about it is to use it sparingly. Using a small brush to apply a "barely there" amount is what is recommended.
A lot of AR folks go bat-guano at the idea of using grease on the grounds that it gums up, but maybe they aren't using a smidgen and working it in with a brush. |
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Posted: 8/26/2019 7:29:14 PM EDT
[#44]
If you get them hot enough everything will cook off. I'm still looking for something that won't carbon up the tail of the bolt.
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Posted: 8/26/2019 7:56:24 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you get them hot enough everything will cook off. I'm still looking for something that won't carbon up the tail of the bolt. |
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Posted: 8/26/2019 8:54:54 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you get them hot enough everything will cook off. I'm still looking for something that won't carbon up the tail of the bolt. |
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Posted: 8/26/2019 9:18:42 PM EDT
[#47]
Just use motorcyle engine oil or pure silicone. Stuff is meant for higher temps than a gun can generate
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Posted: 8/27/2019 9:06:14 AM EDT
[#48]
From the CB site...
"Gas rings and bolt tail: Leave dry, do not lube - the gas is direct, under pressure, and far too hot for any lube to endure long enough to matter, and the friction surfaces are not large enough to be significant in the total amount of friction surface in the gun to matter, if everything else is properly lubed." |
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Posted: 9/3/2019 12:09:18 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I made up a mix of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil and transmission fluid (50/50), but it was still a little too runny and wouldn't "stay put". So I started mixing it with some synthetic automotive grease until I got the viscosity (thickness) I wanted. So far, the new lube I made up is working great. It stays put, doesn't run out of the rifle or pistol. The most rounds I have fired at one time was about 400 rounds of 45acp at a practice session, and the lube was still there, and still working fine at the end of the practice session. Sure, it was dirty, but after 400 rounds or so I would be surprised if it wasn't dirty. Grease is just oil mixed with a thickening agent. 
The thickening agent is almost always a soap. |
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Posted: 9/3/2019 12:19:30 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mobil 1 full synthetic. |
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