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Posted: 4/18/2022 10:34:20 PM EDT
[#1]
no.
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Posted: 4/18/2022 10:41:17 PM EDT
[#2]
Flash hider with washer no. Muzzle device (for suppressor) with proper shims rockset is needed.
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Posted: 4/18/2022 10:49:18 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Flash hider with washer no. Muzzle device with proper shims rockset is needed. Like he just said, you really, really want to use Rockset on a suppressor mount. Not needed on a regular flash suppressor. |
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Posted: 4/18/2022 11:35:41 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Like he just said, you really, really want to use Rockset on a suppressor mount. Not needed on a regular flash suppressor. If you aren't using a can, the crush washer and torque are all that are needed. |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 1:42:22 AM EDT
[#5]
Red is for stuff that should never come off blue is removable but leaves a mess. Takes heat to remove Red.
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Posted: 4/19/2022 9:48:22 AM EDT
[#6]
Provided your barrels shoulder is cut properly, you shouldn't need Loctite, just proper torque.
I would use something for a suppressor mount. Probably Rocksett I had one barrel with the shoulder being tapered ( incorrectly ) and it kept crushing / displacing the shims and then loosening up. A SCAR washer fixed it. I am going to buy some of these to have handy... https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPCW12B.750 |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 9:52:56 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If your can mounts to an A2 or similar profile flash suppressor and shims are used as required, Rocksett is for damn sure needed. Loctite melts under a Gemtech HALO and the FH will spin off when removing the can. I wouldn't have believed it if it didn't happen to me. If you aren't using a can, the crush washer and torque are all that are needed. |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 10:01:23 AM EDT
[#8]
I do it. Red loctite and then torque to spec.
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Posted: 4/19/2022 10:41:58 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted: If torqued properly, is red Locktite necessary? I've never heard of the use of Locktite on any muzzle device. Torque to spec for your standard A2 flash hiders with washer. For suppressor use Rocksett has been the industry standard for nearly 20 years. |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 10:51:48 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've never heard of the use of Locktite on any muzzle device. Torque to spec for your standard A2 flash hiders with washer. For suppressor use Rocksett has been the industry standard for nearly 20 years. |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 10:58:08 AM EDT
[#11]
Agree with everyone else - no loctite on muzzle devices. A big bottle of Rocksett is like $10,and I've been using one for years and a bunch of suppressor mounts and haven't even put a dent in the bottle.
If you need to get it off, soak in hot water for 15" and it'll spin right off. Otherwise it's not going anywhere even with suppressor-glowing hard use. |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 11:24:29 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Agree with everyone else - no loctite on muzzle devices. A big bottle of Rocksett is like $10,and I've been using one for years and a bunch of suppressor mounts and haven't even put a dent in the bottle. If you need to get it off, soak in hot water for 15" and it'll spin right off. Otherwise it's not going anywhere even with suppressor-glowing hard use. 
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Posted: 4/19/2022 11:44:55 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted: Agree with everyone else - no loctite on muzzle devices. A big bottle of Rocksett is like $10,and I've been using one for years and a bunch of suppressor mounts and haven't even put a dent in the bottle. If you need to get it off, soak in hot water for 15" and it'll spin right off. Otherwise it's not going anywhere even with suppressor-glowing hard use. Quoted: Yes, some say hot isn't necessary, but I use boiling water and put my barrel/fh in a vacuum type coffee cup for 15 minutes. 5 minutes doesn't seem to work, 15 seems to be the magic. Sometimes you don't need water, but you better be using a barrel vice and have a really tight wrench. Soak in water, clamp the bbl, smack the wrench with a dead blow hammer. It'll break free. Rocksett doesn't fare well against impact/shock. |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 12:00:49 PM EDT
[#14]
Only if you never wish to remove that flash hider ever again without extreme difficulty.
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Posted: 4/19/2022 12:24:48 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Only if you never wish to remove that flash hider ever again without extreme difficulty. It's not really as difficult as some think. 500 F for a short spell will loosen the bond. Proper solvent and a stiff wire bristle brush to clean the threads. I still wouldn't use it on a MD personally. |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 12:27:56 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Only if you never wish to remove that flash hider ever again without extreme difficulty. It's not hard to remove red loctite if you can heat it to 550 F. |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 12:46:49 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes, some say hot isn't necessary, but I use boiling water and put my barrel/fh in a vacuum type coffee cup for 15 minutes. 5 minutes doesn't seem to work, 15 seems to be the magic. Sometimes you don't need water, but you better be using a barrel vice and have a really tight wrench. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Agree with everyone else - no loctite on muzzle devices. A big bottle of Rocksett is like $10,and I've been using one for years and a bunch of suppressor mounts and haven't even put a dent in the bottle. If you need to get it off, soak in hot water for 15" and it'll spin right off. Otherwise it's not going anywhere even with suppressor-glowing hard use. Yes, some say hot isn't necessary, but I use boiling water and put my barrel/fh in a vacuum type coffee cup for 15 minutes. 5 minutes doesn't seem to work, 15 seems to be the magic. Sometimes you don't need water, but you better be using a barrel vice and have a really tight wrench. Me: don't ask questions when you don't want to know the answers And that's exactly what I do, 15" is perfect. I'm sure I got that from you or someone else in one of these arf threads years ago. |
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Posted: 4/19/2022 9:51:17 PM EDT
[#18]
Thanks guys.
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Posted: 8/10/2022 3:31:36 PM EDT
[#19]
How much Rockett should be applied? (for suppressor MD)
Are we talking a light coating around the middle of the threading or all threads covered and then you wipe the excess off? |
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Posted: 8/10/2022 3:38:21 PM EDT
[#20]
Heat is the manufacturer recommended way to remove something that has red locktite on it.
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Posted: 8/10/2022 4:17:53 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How much Rockett should be applied? (for suppressor MD) Are we talking a light coating around the middle of the threading or all threads covered and then you wipe the excess off? Quote HistoryQuoted: How much Rockett should be applied? (for suppressor MD) Are we talking a light coating around the middle of the threading or all threads covered and then you wipe the excess off? The spec sheet is jump through hoops difficult to use it. I clean with acetone, dry and then I always apply a few drops and let it run down then thread the device on almost all the way then back off then back on and torque. Apply a light coat of Rocksett on male and female portion of the mating areas. Let both air cure apart for24 hours. Heat both to 175 degrees F for 20 minutes then let cool to room temperature. Then apply a thin coat to the male part and mate the two parts together. Let air cure for 24 hours. Heat the assembly to 175 degrees F for 20 minutes and you are done. This is the strongest cure method attainable for coarse bonds. |
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Posted: 8/10/2022 8:16:58 PM EDT
[#22]
From the mfgr:
Think of Rocksett as waterbased solution of glass. The instructions call for a certain time and temperature Which works well under perfect conditions. There are a few ways to cure Rocksett based on many different applications. Rocksett works better with a thin or sparing application. This is because it tends to dry from the outside in. Let us refer to that as “skin hardening”. By now you have applied the liquid adhesive and want it to harden to a solid bond. What must happen is that the water needs to evaporate leaving the silica behind. This is a physical process as opposed to a chemical one. The drying /curing process is benefited by forced warm/hot air movement across the surface. One now wonders “Hey I’m using this as a thread locker.” Which makes it difficult to get the hot air into the threads or mating surfaces.” What needs to happen is total evaporation of the adhesive material. This can become problematic because Rocksett wants to skin harden. Heating the part material does help by allowing heat to pass internally towards the adhesive. Based on part mass and geometry different heating methods should be used. A light application can dry at room temperature in a 24-hour period, with good strength. Follow this up with 20 minutes of heat at 175 degrees, for a normal cure method. If you applied a fair amount of adhesive you may get better results by a slow rise bake/ cook method, say from room temp to 300 F (linear steps) in say six hours. If you were excessive in your application and goobed and screwed, this will not fare well. What will happen if you air cure or heat cure, is basically the same. The Rocksett will skin harden and the uncured adhesive will be encapsulated. Then when any additional heat is applied the water boils immediately forcing its way out and destroying the bond. Let’s review here. If your parts are a tight fit and you use the adhesive sparingly, you get good results. If you have a coarse fit and your using Rocksett as a filler and an adhesive, heres what you can do: Apply a light coat of Rocksett on male and female portion of the mating areas. Let both air cure apart for 24 hours. Heat both to 175 degrees F for 20 minutes then let cool to room temperature. Then apply a thin coat to the male part and mate the two parts together. Let air cure for 24 hours. Heat the assembly to 175 degrees F for 20 minutes and you are done. This is the strongest cure method attainable for coarse bonds. The only way to break a proper Rocksett bond is to soak the part in hot water for 20 minutes or more and then forcibly remove the components. When applying Rocksett make sure parts are free of oils and contaminants. Acetone works well. Some brake cleaning products have been known to inhibit the Rocksett cure. Hope this information help |
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Posted: 8/11/2022 9:52:16 AM EDT
[#23]
If using a crush washer nothing is needed, but proper torque, the crush washer will keep it on. As far as a suppressor mount they usually use shims where rocksett is needed. Red lock tite will melt off when hot.
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Posted: 8/19/2022 9:56:07 PM EDT
[#24]
If you're getting that barrel and muzzle brake extremely hot, even the high heat red loctite may soften and come loose. Use Rocksett instead. It's designed for high heat applications http://www.gem-tech.com/store/pc/Rocksett-Adhesive-8p124.htm
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Posted: 10/4/2022 6:31:54 PM EDT
[#25]
red loctite will just melt off. You'll want something like rocksett because it has a much higher heat tolerance than loctite. Most people use that or just torque it.
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Posted: 10/19/2022 9:09:20 PM EDT
[#26]
If it's torqued properly with a crush/peel/lock washer or shims, then it is not necessary
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Posted: 10/19/2022 9:36:27 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If it's torqued properly with a crush/peel/lock washer or shims, then it is not necessary Many a mount has come off when removing a carbon locked suppressor when Rocksett is not used. |
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Posted: 10/20/2022 10:32:03 AM EDT
[#28]
Is it necessary to use a flat washer when installing a suppressor mount, if it doesn't need to be timed?
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Posted: 10/20/2022 10:42:53 PM EDT
[#29]
Thunder Beast Arms (TBAC) recommends the use of high temperature red loctite (272) for their suppressor mounts. My personal experience with Rocksett aligns with their advice, I’ve had a couple of different suppressor mounts (properly torqued and installed with Rocksett) come loose when trying to remove a stuck suppressor. TBAC Zac Smith posts in this thread for reference at Snipers Hide.
I’ve since started using 272 loctite for all suppressor mounts, regardless of manufacturer. You can use a small butane torch to heat up loctite 272 for muzzle device removal, it only takes a few seconds. |
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Posted: 10/20/2022 10:53:35 PM EDT
[#30]
I do it… it doesn’t hurt anything, holds great if you use a bunch, and is easier to get off (than rocksett) with just a torch when needed.
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Posted: 10/20/2022 11:13:51 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is it necessary to use a flat washer when installing a suppressor mount, if it doesn't need to be timed? No... As long as your barrel has been turned properly with a squared off shoulder at the base of the threads. You want the mount to sit squarely. Some barrels have a tapered shoulder which doesn't work well for suppressor mounts. |
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Posted: 10/20/2022 11:16:08 PM EDT
[#32]
No!
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Posted: 10/21/2022 1:14:43 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thunder Beast Arms (TBAC) recommends the use of high temperature red loctite (272) for their suppressor mounts. My personal experience with Rocksett aligns with their advice, I’ve had a couple of different suppressor mounts (properly torqued and installed with Rocksett) come loose when trying to remove a stuck suppressor. TBAC Zac Smith posts in this thread for reference at Snipers Hide. I’ve since started using 272 loctite for all suppressor mounts, regardless of manufacturer. You can use a small butane torch to heat up loctite 272 for muzzle device removal, it only takes a few seconds. Thanks. I’ve used rocksett but didn’t do the full cure method and it still seems to work, but this seems like a simpler method. |
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Posted: 10/31/2022 2:48:05 PM EDT
[#34]
Red Loctite comes loose with heat. Don't use it on muzzles. Rockset is water soluble. Use it for muzzles and soak it if you need to break it loose.
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Posted: 11/2/2022 1:50:13 AM EDT
[#35]
I put a touch or one drop of red on the first threads.
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Posted: 11/3/2022 11:38:41 AM EDT
[#36]
That is a big negative ghost rider. Some muzzle devices restrict the handguard from being removed. If you don't plan on removing the handguard (including the gas block/tube) or if the muzzle device is small enough for the handguard to slide over it then sure but I'd heavily recommend against it.
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Posted: 11/6/2022 12:50:53 PM EDT
[#37]
No red locktite will melt at muzzle Temps. You should be using Rocksett with the proper shims for a suppressor. As for a normal flash hider a crush washer works fine.
Muzzle brakes should always be timed with shims. |
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