Increasing reliability with 22AR

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Increasing reliability with 22AR

Posted: 8/8/2018 2:12:16 PM EDT

I have a 22AR upper with

Cmmg bbl and collar
BDM Targetmaster bolt and BDM magazine package deal
Aero slickside upper
ALG handguard
Milspec charging handle

Its still pretty new with not many rounds thru it.. its been out ~3 times.
The first mag runs well, then by the middle of the second mag it starts to choke. Failed extractions, fails to feed, etc.

What do i need to do to keep it running for longer between cleanings. This is unsuppressed, with high end cci 22 ar15 ammo and fed automatch, doing similar malfs with both.

Posted: 8/8/2018 2:14:27 PM EDT

[#1]

Also just been using regular ar lower fwiw. Carbine buffer, SSA-E trigger.

Posted: 8/8/2018 2:26:05 PM EDT

[#2]

Quote History

Quoted:
Also just been using regular ar lower fwiw. Carbine buffer, SSA-E trigger.

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Fill in part of the charging handle with JBweld or get the CMMG .22 one. I always had cases getting stuck up there. Otherwise try shooting it some more see if it works itself out.

Looks like you went with good parts.

I've heard of people having trouble with several different non "mil-spec" type triggers in .22LRs, that could be a factor but I'm not sure, I've never tried it.

Posted: 8/8/2018 2:35:52 PM EDT

[#3]

Make sure the bolt is well lubed.

See if it runs better after a few hundred rounds.

The chamber may be tight, I'm guessing when it's a little dirty the empties may take more effort to extract.

Try a different spring for the bolt, a stiff spring and a fouled chamber could make ejection harder.

When I first used my .22 Spike's upper I clipped a couple coils off the spring.

Posted: 8/8/2018 2:38:12 PM EDT

[#4]

How-to-make-your-AR-22-run-smoother-NOW-with-pictures

Posted: 8/8/2018 2:42:48 PM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:
I have a 22AR upper with

Cmmg bbl and collar
BDM Targetmaster bolt and BDM magazine package deal
Aero slickside upper
ALG handguard
Milspec charging handle

Its still pretty new with not many rounds thru it.. its been out ~3 times.
The first mag runs well, then by the middle of the second mag it starts to choke. Failed extractions, fails to feed, etc.

What do i need to do to keep it running for longer between cleanings. This is unsuppressed, with high end cci 22 ar15 ammo and fed automatch, doing similar malfs with both.

View Quote

Mine liked Minimags at first. The 22 AR15 ammo works well. I've also found they liked to be run wet. They get better after 500 or 1000 rounds.

Posted: 8/8/2018 2:58:39 PM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:
This is unsuppressed, with high end cci 22 ar15 ammo and fed automatch, doing similar malfs with both.

View Quote

Try different ammunition.

If you have a drill, put a cleaning rod with a brush in and give it a good spin. I wouldn't do that to any other barrel, but the CMMG barrels are surface hardened. These barrels do get carbon rings more quickly than any other 22lr I've used though.

I polished the rails on which the bolt rides with a dremel, but that might just be stupid.

Posted: 8/9/2018 3:34:23 AM EDT

[#7]

Quote History

Quoted:
Mine liked Minimags at first. The 22 AR15 ammo works well. I've also found they liked to be run wet. They get better after 500 or 1000 rounds.

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
I have a 22AR upper with

Cmmg bbl and collar
BDM Targetmaster bolt and BDM magazine package deal
Aero slickside upper
ALG handguard
Milspec charging handle

Its still pretty new with not many rounds thru it.. its been out ~3 times.
The first mag runs well, then by the middle of the second mag it starts to choke. Failed extractions, fails to feed, etc.

What do i need to do to keep it running for longer between cleanings. This is unsuppressed, with high end cci 22 ar15 ammo and fed automatch, doing similar malfs with both.

Mine liked Minimags at first. The 22 AR15 ammo works well. I've also found they liked to be run wet. They get better after 500 or 1000 rounds.

Yeah it prob only has 2 or 300 rounds thru it and is morr or less fine at first, its just a little tight

Posted: 8/9/2018 3:35:21 AM EDT

[#8]

Quote History

Quoted:
Fill in part of the charging handle with JBweld or get the CMMG .22 one. I always had cases getting stuck up there. Otherwise try shooting it some more see if it works itself out.

Looks like you went with good parts.

I've heard of people having trouble with several different non "mil-spec" type triggers in .22LRs, that could be a factor but I'm not sure, I've never tried it.

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Also just been using regular ar lower fwiw. Carbine buffer, SSA-E trigger.

Fill in part of the charging handle with JBweld or get the CMMG .22 one. I always had cases getting stuck up there. Otherwise try shooting it some more see if it works itself out.

Looks like you went with good parts.

I've heard of people having trouble with several different non "mil-spec" type triggers in .22LRs, that could be a factor but I'm not sure, I've never tried it.

Yeah i need to do that, but i dont think that's been the issue. I get tons of failed extractions

Posted: 8/9/2018 3:36:31 AM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
How-to-make-your-AR-22-run-smoother-NOW-with-pictures

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I will read that, thanks.

ETA - read it, that all makes a lot of sense. Im no stranger to dremelsmithing. A tight or rough chamber and feed ramp would explain a lot.

What do you guys think about the pressure plugs? Are those simply to hold the 22bcg as far forward as possible at all times? Would that be necessary with my parts list, or impossible to tell until i take some other measures first?

Posted: 8/9/2018 3:57:45 AM EDT

[#10]

My CMMG complete upper has never choked on anything. It just runs and runs and runs. Can this be mag related at all? I use the S&W 25's and the 10 rounders

Posted: 8/9/2018 3:58:33 AM EDT

[#11]

Here's a pic. Everyone likes pics

Attached File

Posted: 8/9/2018 4:00:24 AM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:
My CMMG complete upper has never choked on anything. It just runs and runs and runs. Can this be mag related at all? I use the S&W 25's and the 10 rounders

View Quote

Im using BDM mags with the metal lips.

Posted: 8/9/2018 9:18:26 AM EDT

[#13]

I added a lot of reliability by installing the Boonie Packer Better Mag adapter to use S&W 15-22 magazines... when you load the magazines, retract the follower just enough to load one cartridge, the release, then repeat... that way the cartridges will alternate in the magazine... fill in the charging handle as commented above to fill in where the gas tube should protrude if you are using a dedicated .22lr barrel

my CMMG dedicated works pretty well with Federal Auto Match bulk

Posted: 8/9/2018 1:08:47 PM EDT

[#14]

It works, it just acts "too dirty, chamber too tight to extract, etc " after 40 or 50 rounds. Then i need to manually eject/feed every other round.

Posted: 8/9/2018 5:17:15 PM EDT

[#15]

When the chamber is clean, unfired ammo should drop free in and out of the chamber. If that is not the case, you can probably "chase" the chamber with a .22 LR finish reamer to get it opened to spec. My CMMG .22 conversions are both okay, but I had to ream the chamber on my Vector .22 LR Uzi conversion because the chamber was undersized and was causing the type of failures that you have described. Years ago I had a Spikes Tactical (ST) .22 AR-15 conversion that had an undersized chamber also. I assume that it was over plated. ST replaced it at no cost.

Also, make sure that your extractor is free of any defects and is snapping on the case rim properly. Any excessive drag in the system may reduce the bolt speed and prevent the extractor from grabbing properly. Potential drag could be from the unit still getting broken in, rough spots or burrs, mag lip to bolt interface is too tight (mag seats too high). A weak recoil spring may also result in reduced bolt speed on the forward motion of the bolt. It's possible, but unlikely that the extractor body or claw were not made correctly, but as you can effectively manually work the action, I doubt that the extractor is defective.

I assume that you are shooting a semi auto AR-15, not full auto. In any case, it has been my experience that in semi and full auto M16 shooting with .22 LR ammo, a "pressure plug" (of my own manufacture) has not solved any issue that I've encountered; and an anti bounce weight (ABW) aids semi auto reliability as well as being virtually necessary for reliable, continuous full auto fire.

Best of luck in diagnosing and resolving your issue(s).

MHO, YMMV, etc.

Posted: 8/9/2018 5:59:45 PM EDT

[#16]

Feed ramp and chamber would be where I'd start. Better ammo until it's well broken in. I would rather pay for mini-mags than deal with malfunctions. I only run BDM metal feed lil mags and rarely have issues. That's a dedicated CMMG upper and with an old well worn in Ciener conversion.

Post updates, you're not the first and won't be the last.

Posted: 9/6/2018 5:41:40 AM EDT

[#17]

Some updating -

After more break in, things are getting better, but im still getting a couple issues;
- light strikes (i think i was getting this before, but misdiagnosed it, as several things were happening lol.)
-when it doesnt ignite, the extractor has a hard time yanking a whole cartridge, so there are failed extractions.
-failure to feeds.

Im pretty sure that covers everything.

With the CCI "22lr AR15" copper plate (210 rds Box?), it jams 5+ times per 25rd bdm.

With fed automatch lead 325 box, probably 2-5 times per mag.

Blue box federal champion 525 box copper plate is money, with 0-1 malfs per mag.

It seems to be breaking in, so i probably will just keep running the fed champion 525 thru it for a while to loosen it up, as it also seems the hottest. Maybe a longer firing pin protrusion would help with the harder ammo if more break in doesn't do it

Posted: 9/6/2018 5:35:47 PM EDT

[#18]

-when it doesnt ignite, the extractor has a hard time yanking a whole cartridge, so there are failed extractions.

This sounds like you either have a ring of lead in your chamber (or tight chamber) or extractor issues.

Take the .22 kit out of your upper, and you should be able to drop an unfired round into the chamber and it should fall freely and fully in without pushing, and then it should fall out when you point the muzzle up. This is a very common issue.

I keep an old military cleaning rod section with a 5.56 bore brush in it and chuck it in a drill and spin it in the chamber after every range session.

If the shells drop in and out freely, then your extractor may not be fully hooking the rim of the cartridge.

I've seen barrels that did not have the extractor groove cut deep enough and it would slightly hold the extractor away from the rim.

Make sure that when the bolt fully closes on a live round, the extractor is not being slightly lifted away from the rim, also check the extractor and make sure it has a sharp hook (they chip off sometimes).

Posted: 9/6/2018 9:21:23 PM EDT

[#19]

For posterity's sake,

3 brands function tested in cmmg 16" 22lr 1:16 bbl and collar, target master bolt, bdm steel mags, slickside upper

Fed automatch 325 pack
notes- lead round nose. pretty dirty for AR. A couple malfs per mag of various kinds listed below.

cci AR tactical, 300 pack
notes - copper plate round nose 40gr.
,
More rounded rim, extractor doesnt always bite.
Extractor usually doesnt bite following a CH pull after a light strike.... I.e. when there is a whole cartridge in the chamber.

Federal Champion 525 pack
Copper plated hollow poont. Oddly loud. Clean, relatively few malfs. Stiff flat rim that my extractor likes more than the cci case. Fewest misfires. Higher blowback speed, i think.

all ammo was getting about 2-3" 25rd groups at 30-35yards, shooting rapid fire-ish wirh a holosun circle dot

Posted: 9/6/2018 9:31:23 PM EDT

[#20]

Quote History

Quoted:
-when it doesnt ignite, the extractor has a hard time yanking a whole cartridge, so there are failed extractions.

This sounds like you either have a ring of lead in your chamber (or tight chamber) or extractor issues.

Take the .22 kit out of your upper, and you should be able to drop an unfired round into the chamber and it should fall freely and fully in without pushing, and then it should fall out when you point the muzzle up. This is a very common issue.

I keep an old military cleaning rod section with a 5.56 bore brush in it and chuck it in a drill and spin it in the chamber after every range session.

If the shells drop in and out freely, then your extractor may not be fully hooking the rim of the cartridge.

I've seen barrels that did not have the extractor groove cut deep enough and it would slightly hold the extractor away from the rim.

Make sure that when the bolt fully closes on a live round, the extractor is not being slightly lifted away from the rim, also check the extractor and make sure it has a sharp hook (they chip off sometimes).

View Quote

Thanks for checking in! I have faith this thing will get fully reliable. Maybe im being dense, but in response to the bolded and underlined - we are both talking about dedicatd uppers right? The conversion kit, so to speak, includes the chamber, so if i remove it, what am i sticking a round in?

Posted: 9/6/2018 10:04:09 PM EDT

[#21]

I still think your problem is possibly magazine related. Order this stuff below. I did and it all works flawlessly.

The AR Catch22 provides shooters the same bolt catch and last-round-hold-open capabilities that a standard .223 AR-15 provides.

Catch22 the AR-15 .22lr Bolt Catch Solution

Posted: 9/7/2018 12:39:47 AM EDT

[#22]

Quote History

Quoted:
-when it doesnt ignite, the extractor has a hard time yanking a whole cartridge, so there are failed extractions.

This sounds like you either have a ring of lead in your chamber (or tight chamber) or extractor issues.

Take the .22 kit out of your upper, and you should be able to drop an unfired round into the chamber and it should fall freely and fully in without pushing, and then it should fall out when you point the muzzle up. This is a very common issue.

I keep an old military cleaning rod section with a 5.56 bore brush in it and chuck it in a drill and spin it in the chamber after every range session.

If the shells drop in and out freely, then your extractor may not be fully hooking the rim of the cartridge.

I've seen barrels that did not have the extractor groove cut deep enough and it would slightly hold the extractor away from the rim.

Make sure that when the bolt fully closes on a live round, the extractor is not being slightly lifted away from the rim, also check the extractor and make sure it has a sharp hook (they chip off sometimes).

View Quote

What I highlighted in red. I had to very carefully with a small file work back the edge of the metal at the very end of the chamber where the bolt face and extractor meet it there. Just like he said. the groove was too shallow. What was happening was the extractor claw was chewing up the metal upon contact and cause a slight deformation causing the shell wall to fit tight on that side. With the deformed metal there shells were dragging just enough that the extractor hook was able to slip off the rim on certain brands of ammo. As it got worse chambering became an issue as well.

WARNING always be extra careful when filing away any metal. I just took my time and went slowly and removed just enough till I could see the extractor claw wasn't making contact any more and shells were no longer dragging on that side during extraction or chambering. Again I can't emphasis it enough, go slow and only take what is needed away if you feel you need to try this. You cant replace that metal if you take too much.

I tried to take pictures showing where I've filed it back a bit. Sorry the camera phone wasn't able to capture it more clearly for you. This solved my issues. The bore brush and a hand drill isn't a bad idea either. Again just don't get too aggressive with it and you should be good to go scrubbing your chamber area out every now and then.

Once I had mine tuned correctly pairing it with a suppressor and a binary equipped lower has just been way too much fun. Good luck tuning yours.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdK9smaN0vk

Posted: 9/7/2018 3:48:12 PM EDT

[#23]

Quote History

Quoted:

Thanks for checking in! I have faith this thing will get fully reliable. Maybe im being dense, but in response to the bolded and underlined - we are both talking about dedicatd uppers right? The conversion kit, so to speak, includes the chamber, so if i remove it, what am i sticking a round in?

View Quote

If your chamber is attached to the .22 kit when you pull it out, it is not a true dedicated upper, that is a conversion made for a 5.56 chamber.

On a true dedicated upper, there is a collar attached to the conversion that slides OVER the barrel (which has the chamber cut).

If your .22 conversion bolt looks like it has a 5.56 empty case stuck on the end of it when you pull it out, that is a conversion unit for a 5.56 barrel, not a true dedicated upper.

If you look at jeremywills pics in the post above, that entire SS collar will pull off the barrel stub and come out when you pull your .22 unit out the back of the upper receiver.

Posted: 9/8/2018 2:56:45 PM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:
If your chamber is attached to the .22 kit when you pull it out, it is not a true dedicated upper, that is a conversion made for a 5.56 chamber.

On a true dedicated upper, there is a collar attached to the conversion that slides OVER the barrel (which has the chamber cut).

If your .22 conversion bolt looks like it has a 5.56 empty case stuck on the end of it when you pull it out, that is a conversion unit for a 5.56 barrel, not a true dedicated upper.

If you look at jeremywills pics in the post above, that entire SS collar will pull off the barrel stub and come out when you pull your .22 unit out the back of the upper receiver.

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:

Thanks for checking in! I have faith this thing will get fully reliable. Maybe im being dense, but in response to the bolded and underlined - we are both talking about dedicatd uppers right? The conversion kit, so to speak, includes the chamber, so if i remove it, what am i sticking a round in?

If your chamber is attached to the .22 kit when you pull it out, it is not a true dedicated upper, that is a conversion made for a 5.56 chamber.

On a true dedicated upper, there is a collar attached to the conversion that slides OVER the barrel (which has the chamber cut).

If your .22 conversion bolt looks like it has a 5.56 empty case stuck on the end of it when you pull it out, that is a conversion unit for a 5.56 barrel, not a true dedicated upper.

If you look at jeremywills pics in the post above, that entire SS collar will pull off the barrel stub and come out when you pull your .22 unit out the back of the upper receiver.

I think i was tired and I misread what you wrote, in arriving at that confused. Now it makes perfect sense. I have a deducated upper yes.

I'm gonna give it a good cleaning later, ill try what you mentioned. Thanks again, bud!

Posted: 9/8/2018 3:06:04 PM EDT

[#25]

Quote History

Quoted:
What I highlighted in red. I had to very carefully with a small file work back the edge of the metal at the very end of the chamber where the bolt face and extractor meet it there. Just like he said. the groove was too shallow. What was happening was the extractor claw was chewing up the metal upon contact and cause a slight deformation causing the shell wall to fit tight on that side. With the deformed metal there shells were dragging just enough that the extractor hook was able to slip off the rim on certain brands of ammo. As it got worse chambering became an issue as well.

WARNING always be extra careful when filing away any metal. I just took my time and went slowly and removed just enough till I could see the extractor claw wasn't making contact any more and shells were no longer dragging on that side during extraction or chambering. Again I can't emphasis it enough, go slow and only take what is needed away if you feel you need to try this. You cant replace that metal if you take too much.

https://i.imgur.com/Z8tnHVZh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bxHKIV4h.jpg

I tried to take pictures showing where I've filed it back a bit. Sorry the camera phone wasn't able to capture it more clearly for you. This solved my issues. The bore brush and a hand drill isn't a bad idea either. Again just don't get too aggressive with it and you should be good to go scrubbing your chamber area out every now and then.

Once I had mine tuned correctly pairing it with a suppressor and a binary equipped lower has just been way too much fun. Good luck tuning yours.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdK9smaN0vk

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
-when it doesnt ignite, the extractor has a hard time yanking a whole cartridge, so there are failed extractions.

This sounds like you either have a ring of lead in your chamber (or tight chamber) or extractor issues.

Take the .22 kit out of your upper, and you should be able to drop an unfired round into the chamber and it should fall freely and fully in without pushing, and then it should fall out when you point the muzzle up. This is a very common issue.

I keep an old military cleaning rod section with a 5.56 bore brush in it and chuck it in a drill and spin it in the chamber after every range session.

If the shells drop in and out freely, then your extractor may not be fully hooking the rim of the cartridge.

I've seen barrels that did not have the extractor groove cut deep enough and it would slightly hold the extractor away from the rim.

Make sure that when the bolt fully closes on a live round, the extractor is not being slightly lifted away from the rim, also check the extractor and make sure it has a sharp hook (they chip off sometimes).

What I highlighted in red. I had to very carefully with a small file work back the edge of the metal at the very end of the chamber where the bolt face and extractor meet it there. Just like he said. the groove was too shallow. What was happening was the extractor claw was chewing up the metal upon contact and cause a slight deformation causing the shell wall to fit tight on that side. With the deformed metal there shells were dragging just enough that the extractor hook was able to slip off the rim on certain brands of ammo. As it got worse chambering became an issue as well.

WARNING always be extra careful when filing away any metal. I just took my time and went slowly and removed just enough till I could see the extractor claw wasn't making contact any more and shells were no longer dragging on that side during extraction or chambering. Again I can't emphasis it enough, go slow and only take what is needed away if you feel you need to try this. You cant replace that metal if you take too much.

https://i.imgur.com/Z8tnHVZh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bxHKIV4h.jpg

I tried to take pictures showing where I've filed it back a bit. Sorry the camera phone wasn't able to capture it more clearly for you. This solved my issues. The bore brush and a hand drill isn't a bad idea either. Again just don't get too aggressive with it and you should be good to go scrubbing your chamber area out every now and then.

Once I had mine tuned correctly pairing it with a suppressor and a binary equipped lower has just been way too much fun. Good luck tuning yours.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdK9smaN0vk

Interesting and nice!

I have modified a .223 ak front trunion to take pmags before, so I can appreciate the suggestion to take it slow at this point in my dremel gunsmith career.

I appreciate the pics I can see what you mean, I think. I'm gonna compare it to mine and check extractor fitment.

Posted: 9/8/2018 3:44:29 PM EDT

[#26]

For another data point, I have been using a Geissele SSA-E for the trigger the whole time.

Posted: 9/8/2018 3:46:43 PM EDT

[#27]

Quote History

Quoted:
I still think your problem is possibly magazine related. Order this stuff below. I did and it all works flawlessly.

The AR Catch22 provides shooters the same bolt catch and last-round-hold-open capabilities that a standard .223 AR-15 provides.

Catch22 the AR-15 .22lr Bolt Catch Solution

https://www.arcatch22.com/s/cc_images/teaserbox_18745222.jpg?t=1530568990

https://www.arcatch22.com/s/cc_images/teaserbox_18745223.jpg?t=1529364763

http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/xl_940001065_5..jpg

View Quote

I want to get these working together. I think it's reasonable to want a cmmg bbl and collar to work with black dog mags, right?

ETA also mags prob aren't making ligjt strikes and failed ejections

Posted: 9/10/2018 1:27:43 PM EDT

[#28]

Mine works perfect with black dogs, both steel lipped (I polish the inside of the lips) and 50 round drums.

CMMG mags work for a (very) little while, but wear out fast.

I have 1 CMMG 4.5" dedicated, suppressed upper with a BFS III; 2 CMMG conversions; a TacSol dedicated; a DPMS/Nordic dedicated; and a CLE with an m249 kit.

All my guns will run with about any HV round (even Fed cheap bulk HP) except the Rem golden stuff (half the bullets are so loose they are about to fall out, only my DPMS/Nordic will run with that).

I've ran the CMMG shorty over 1000 rounds with no malf's or cleaning with the Fed Champion HVHP cheap stuff. But Firing pins only last about 1300 rounds on the CMMG's (the new ones are supposed to be better, and they will warranty them for free).

Both light strikes and failed ejection can be caused by the dirty/leaded chamber issue... start there....the lead ring is hard to see and hard to get out sometimes (lead will polish up and get shiny and look like a clean chamber, i.e., easy to overlook)

So you clean the chamber but the guns starts stuttering after a couple mags? You probably didn't get ALL the lead ring out, the chamber should look perfectly smooth all the way to the rifling when you shine a light down the muzzle.

Posted: 9/10/2018 1:31:38 PM EDT

[#29]

Use better ammo.

Posted: 9/10/2018 1:39:47 PM EDT

[#30]

Quote History

Quoted:
I added a lot of reliability by installing the Boonie Packer Better Mag adapter to use S&W 15-22 magazines... when you load the magazines, retract the follower just enough to load one cartridge, the release, then repeat... that way the cartridges will alternate in the magazine... fill in the charging handle as commented above to fill in where the gas tube should protrude if you are using a dedicated .22lr barrel

my CMMG dedicated works pretty well with Federal Auto Match bulk

View Quote

The Better Mag adapter with M&P mags is the correct answer. My 22 has run 100%, as long as I keep it lubed.

Hell, I was shooting it last week, and it was running great. But, something about the way the M&P mags were seating didn't seem right. I popped the takedown pin and saw that I forgot to put the better mag adapter back in the lower after I cleaned it last time.

So, the M&P mags were 100% over several hundred rounds of bulk ammo without even having the adapter in there. Lol.

I don't recommend running it that way, but it's good to know it works.

Posted: 9/11/2018 11:42:04 AM EDT

[#31]

Quote History

Quoted:
Mine works perfect with black dogs, both steel lipped (I polish the inside of the lips) and 50 round drums.

CMMG mags work for a (very) little while, but wear out fast.

I have 1 CMMG 4.5" dedicated, suppressed upper with a BFS III; 2 CMMG conversions; a TacSol dedicated; a DPMS/Nordic dedicated; and a CLE with an m249 kit.

All my guns will run with about any HV round (even Fed cheap bulk HP) except the Rem golden stuff (half the bullets are so loose they are about to fall out, only my DPMS/Nordic will run with that).

I've ran the CMMG shorty over 1000 rounds with no malf's or cleaning with the Fed Champion HVHP cheap stuff. But Firing pins only last about 1300 rounds on the CMMG's (the new ones are supposed to be better, and they will warranty them for free).

Both light strikes and failed ejection can be caused by the dirty/leaded chamber issue... start there....the lead ring is hard to see and hard to get out sometimes (lead will polish up and get shiny and look like a clean chamber, i.e., easy to overlook)

So you clean the chamber but the guns starts stuttering after a couple mags? You probably didn't get ALL the lead ring out, the chamber should look perfectly smooth all the way to the rifling when you shine a light down the muzzle.

View Quote

He brought up a good point. Always have spare firing pins handy if your running em hard with a full auto or binary equipped lower. The rehab kit CMMG offers is nice and I always keep one in the range bag for just in case.

I keep seeing you guys suggesting the adapter and the M&P mags. I might have to try it one of these days.

Posted: 9/14/2018 3:39:13 PM EDT

[#32]

So i gave it a good cleaning.

Contrary to before, it is picking up rims of cases in tge chamber all the time when hand cycling

I tried the thing where you take tge bolt out and make sure a round will fall free from the chamber - that worked fine.

I noticed some "breaking in" on the "bolt rails", and it all seems a bit slicker now.

Heres a close-up on the notch in the collar that the extractor sits in (before i cleaned it). I dont think there are any clearance issues?

Attached File

Attached File

When the gun was brand new, the extractor would often skip the rim when hand cycling, but thats not happening anymore. Maybe it's all breaking in?

I havent shot it in the last week or whatnot, but things are looking up. I wonder if the light strikes and misfeeds could be in any way related to the collar and bolt sliding back off the detent during blowback, messing things up for the next round? Is that what people get pressure plugs for?

Posted: 9/14/2018 4:15:20 PM EDT

[#33]

Quote History

Quoted:
Is that what people get pressure plugs for?

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I think a plug might help reliability for a conversion bolt. Since the insert doesn't lock in it might slip out of battery.

With my collar on my rifles, I don't see a plug serving any good purpose. If anything, pressing the rear plate further in might interfere with bolt catch function.

Posted: 9/14/2018 5:24:47 PM EDT

[#34]

Quote History

Quoted:
So i gave it a good cleaning.

Contrary to before, it is picking up rims of cases in tge chamber all the time when hand cycling

I tried the thing where you take tge bolt out and make sure a round will fall free from the chamber - that worked fine.

I noticed some "breaking in" on the "bolt rails", and it all seems a bit slicker now.

Heres a close-up on the notch in the collar that the extractor sits in (before i cleaned it). I dont think there are any clearance issues?

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/389059/20180908_125245-671422.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/389059/20180908_125323-671424.JPG

When the gun was brand new, the extractor would often skip the rim when hand cycling, but thats not happening anymore. Maybe it's all breaking in?

I havent shot it in the last week or whatnot, but things are looking up. I wonder if the light strikes and misfeeds could be in any way related to the collar and bolt sliding back off the detent during blowback, messing things up for the next round? Is that what people get pressure plugs for?

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On mine, if I watch the extractor closely while working the bolt back and forth a tiny bit, I can see the extractor move a tiny bit as the bolt seats. I had some extraction problem the first time out, but after cleaning the chamber with a brush in a drill and polishing the feed ramps, it seemed to work pretty good. Im going to try to shoot this weekend to verify. I also got a 7/8" dowel rod today to make a plug to hold the BCG forwrd. My BCG will move front to back a good 1/16" with the gun assembled.

Posted: 9/15/2018 8:51:10 PM EDT

[#35]

I'm a noob at all of this, so take it for what it is worth. I purchased a PSA dedicated 22LR upper, combined with a PSA lower parts kit, a Polymer80 lower and a better mag adapter. I run S&W 10 round mags in it. When I first took it out (basically took it out of the box and attached it to the lower), it was very hit or miss, worse with Federal and Aguila and a little better with CCI mini mags. I took it back home and poked around on some different sites, including this one, and the only thing that I did initially was to take the BCG out and clean it thoroughly with some gun bore cleaner.

The next time out it still did not like the Federal, was reasonably tolerant with Golden bullets and was very reliable with the CCI mini mags. Since that time, I purchased a case of CCI Blazer and now at the 2000 (or so) round mark, it runs both CCI bullets flawlessly. The Aguila bullets still gave me issues but now they are gone and I won't purchase any more of them. As for the Federal, well I can use them in my 22 revolver

Posted: 9/17/2018 12:14:03 PM EDT

[#36]

I'd shoot it now and check things out.

You said it would not drop shells free before the cleaning, but will now.

The kits will not work properly with a dirty/too tight chamber that make shells stick.

If you are still having problems, you might have some tolerance stacking issues with the BDM kit mixing with the CMMG collar, also.

Your rail "hooks" that go around the collar look like they have a lot of slop. A pressure plug may or may not help this, but may be worth a try.

Instead of buying one, just turn your standard AR15 buffer around backwards and push it in when you drop your upper down to latch. It will do the same thing.

BTW....What kind of dog do you have?

Posted: 11/9/2018 9:55:08 PM EDT

[#37]

Quote History

Quoted:
For another data point, I have been using a Geissele SSA-E for the trigger the whole time.

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I’ll bet this is your problem. Mine was doing the same thing. I tried the Taccom plug, trigger springs, buzzing the chamber with a bore brush in a drill, mags, ammo, you name it. Drove me CRAZY!!! Finally I pulled my Geisselle SSA trigger out and put in a Mil-Spec trigger...BINGO! Runs about as perfect as a semi-auto 22 can. I don’t know what it is but these CMMG bolts (maybe others too) do NOT like Geisselle triggers and/or hammers. Also if you have a deformed chamber from accidentally dry firing it when the bolt fails to pick up another round try and find you one of these, 590-009-022WB .22 Chamber Ironing Swage. I got one from Brownells but according to them, they’re discontinued. Hope this helps.

Posted: 11/9/2018 10:08:41 PM EDT

[#38]

Polish everything, lube everything wet, use CCI Mini-Mags ammo, use very light hammer spring.

Posted: 11/9/2018 10:26:32 PM EDT

[#39]

Quote History

Quoted:
Polish everything, lube everything wet, use CCI Mini-Mags ammo, use very light hammer spring.

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I did ALL that and then some. The only thing that worked was taking out the Geisselle and I betcha that’s the problem. In fact, as soon as I stumbled across this thread, I said “I’ll bet he’s running a Geisselle trigger. Sure enough...he was.

Posted: 11/10/2018 7:41:15 AM EDT

[#40]

I am running a MBT in my CMMG build and it has not malfunctioned once in 4-500 rounds.

Posted: 11/10/2018 12:23:40 PM EDT

[#41]

I built mine from an 80% lower, mil spec trigger kit, CMMG bolt, Spikes barrel, blah, blah, blah. It took about 5 different magazines, a dozen different types of ammo and a lot of cleaning, polishing and lubricating but it now runs 100% with Aguila Super Extra High Velocity ammo, Black Dog magazines and keeping up with maintenance and cleaning. Once I got it dialed in it ate 500 rounds straight with zero failures.

Point is, you just have to be patient and figure out what works for your rifle because they're all slightly different. Always keep trying different things. You'll get it dialed in eventually.

Posted: 11/10/2018 12:50:56 PM EDT

[#42]

Quote History

Quoted:
Point is, you just have to be patient and figure out what works for your rifle because they're all slightly different. Always keep trying different things. You'll get it dialed in eventually.

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Agreed. The thing is, with my particular set up, (CMMG bolt, bbl, 80% lower, yadda, yadda....) all the other little tweeks like mags, ammo, polishing, etc. miraculously all of the sudden became irrelevant when I ditched the Geisselle trigger. Believe me when I say that I put that $180 trigger in there for reason and didn’t want it to be the problem...but it was. I have not figured out the exact problem with the design of the trigger and/or hammer and/or spring design when used with a .22lr setup, I just know it doesn’t work in mine which tells me I’m more than likely not the only one. Just trying to maybe save the guy a ton of time, $$, ammo, aggravation, beer, and profanity laced tirades in getting to the cause of the problem. As a side note, when I ditched the Geisselle, my CMMG BHOA started working as it’s supposed to when using their now discontinued BHOA compatible mags.

Posted: 11/11/2018 6:38:34 PM EDT

[#43]

Been using the Boonie packer adapter with little to no issue. LW SS barrel on a CMMG Mk4 LE.

Posted: 11/14/2018 5:53:02 PM EDT

[#44]

Clean chamber.

Different ammo , rim sizes can vary... and stuff like Norma have a "Lube" on the bullet.

And try different mags and try polishing the Black Dog feed lips... I have felt some pretty rough ones.

Posted: 11/22/2018 2:01:58 PM EDT

[#45]

Has Taccom quit offering their .22lr reliability kit?

Posted: 11/22/2018 2:14:17 PM EDT

[#46]

I had a G trigger in mine that would never work right, and tried a CMC 3.5lbs trigger that also wouldn't play nice. Mil-spec trigger works perfectly. Well... the gun still hates Remington Gold and loves Federal Bulk, but at least it will run reliably with the right ammo.