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Posted: 3/4/2021 2:56:06 PM EDT
[#1]
A self-contained trigger should not need the floor of the trigger pocket in order to work, but I'd have concerns about the strength of the lower with more material removed. The grip mount is right behind the trigger and some of the force of recoil probably goes through the bottom of the lower.
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:07:56 PM EDT
[#2]
Some cassette triggers use anti-rotate hammer/trigger pins to hold them in place. I’d think that would work. Timney has 2 screws, one on each side of the cassette that tighten against the bottom of the FCG pocket. That probably wouldn’t work.
Fostech triggers have springs to hold the trigger and hammer pins in place without those loathsome anti-rotate pins.  ATC does something similar. 
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:08:01 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted: I was distracted and instead of milling a trigger slot I milled the whole bottom out, knew right away that I had effed up. My question is this, will a cassette trigger group function properly in this? IIRC the only component that touches is the trigger spring. It should work, but I would just buy a new 80% lower and start over. If you really want to save it I would do something like get a piece of aluminum sheet metal, cut it to fit, JB Weld it in place then mill the trigger slot into it. But it seems like a lot of trouble. |
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:08:09 PM EDT
[#4]
Yeah, it would just be a bastardized lower for screwing around.
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:15:55 PM EDT
[#5]
On the bright side, you’ll never get a blown primer stuck under the trigger.
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:16:51 PM EDT
[#6]
As was said previously, some cassette trigger groups need the floor. Check before you buy. Or, get out the JB
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:25:16 PM EDT
[#7]
An associate did this to his first 80% arms lower, company says that yes, a cassette trigger will work. If yours is from them, they will also discount a replacement lower if you send pix (and you keep the bad one). I believe my associate's plan is to build a floor from industrial epoxy to at least seal the hole and give some support.
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:26:42 PM EDT
[#8]
It should work.
Just an idea to hide your shame... Possibly make a thin shim, that is even to the side walls. With a slightly wider than stock trigger slot. It could have a 90 degree bend on each end that could have a tiny screw on each end. If you didn't remove to much of the lower . It's purpose would be to keep debris out of the action. And not a reinforcement. Or wait for a buyback, and put shit parts in it 
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:36:23 PM EDT
[#9]
If you're brave, adventurous, or know someone that is, tig some fresh aluminum into the hole and redo it. Make it the basis for a shiny build.
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:49:30 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you're brave, adventurous, or know someone that is, tig some fresh aluminum into the hole and redo it. Make it the basis for a shiny build. I agree with this. |
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Posted: 3/4/2021 3:59:41 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I agree with this. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If you're brave, adventurous, or know someone that is, tig some fresh aluminum into the hole and redo it. Make it the basis for a shiny build. I agree with this. Unless it's a shitty 6061 "billet" lower, it cannot be welded. The correct alloy for AR's (7075) contains zinc that vaporizes and copper that migrates out under fusion welding conditions (i.e., normal welding). It can be welded by the friction stir method, but that ain't happening on an AR lower and certainly not in 99.998% of the shops in the world. |
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Posted: 3/4/2021 4:14:18 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Unless it's a shitty 6061 "billet" lower, it cannot be welded. The correct alloy for AR's (7075) contains zinc that vaporizes and copper that migrates out under fusion welding conditions (i.e., normal welding). It can be welded by the friction stir method, but that ain't happening on an AR lower and certainly not in 99.998% of the shops in the world. You can absolutely weld a 7075 lower. Been done. When welding 7075, strength becomes the issue, due to possible cracking. It's weldable, just not guaranteed strong. |
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Posted: 3/4/2021 4:18:37 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can absolutely weld a 7075 lower. Been done. When welding 7075, strength becomes the issue, due to possible cracking. It's weldable, just not guaranteed strong. You can also make a sandwich with wheat bread and dog shit, but it doesn't mean the result will suit your requirements. |
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Posted: 3/4/2021 4:56:33 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryYou can also make a sandwich with wheat bread and dog shit, but it doesn't mean the result will suit your requirements. @BlammO I guess braceman doesn't know what kind of dogshit he's using then  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/4/2021 5:28:27 PM EDT
[#15]
Good lord.
OP: Ignore this bullshit. Do what you want. |
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Posted: 3/4/2021 7:02:26 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good lord. OP: Ignore this bullshit. Do what you want. Which bullshit are you referring to? Fact: 7075 T6 can be welded. It's 2021 and phase segregation has been overcome. Eta: 7075 T6. Welded.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/5/2021 1:25:11 AM EDT
[#17]
double tap
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Posted: 3/5/2021 1:52:12 AM EDT
[#18]
So this isn't correct?
https://www.thefabricator.com/thewelder/article/aluminumwelding/aluminum-workshop-why-isn-t-7075-weldable- I can personally back that 6061 welds hold up. Need to put some miles on the welds on the frame still in the white before making assumptions they will hold up....  Don't get me wrong, I love to see innovation in fabrication methods, but also want some proof before depending on it. |
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Posted: 3/5/2021 5:37:22 AM EDT
[#19]
Woah. Didn't want to stir up any controversy. Fact is, I've never welded aluminum in my life, though, I'll defer to Tigwelder1971 on the topic of tig welding. From a common sense perspective, I would argue that if the weld comes out clean and crack free, it's likely plenty strong for the area being serviced, as the floor of the receiver doesn't see the kind of stresses that say the mag well or receiver extension threads see. With the rest if the receiver intact, I would think the weld would work fine, especially considering people are advocating doing an epoxy build up, filling it with JB Weld, or just leaving it open and dropping a box trigger into it.
I could advocate for using those aluminum welding rods you can MAPP torch in the infomercials and Harbir Freight say they're stronger than the original aluminum 
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Posted: 3/5/2021 8:29:00 AM EDT
[#20]
Filler rods made of 7075 infused with titanium carbide is the new tech.
The problem with welding 7075 is that when the metal is heated, the aluminum, zinc, magnesium and copper of which it's composed flow unevenly ( phase segregation), causing cracks to form along the length of the weld. The addition of titanium carbide has proven to alleviate this. FWIW, 6061 aluminum alloy has a weld strength of 186 megapascals. 7075 aluminum welded titanium carbide has already shown tensile strengths of up to 392 megapascals. UCLA tests indicate that post heat treat procedures of 7075 welds will likely yield up to 551 megapascals, which is comparable to the weld strength of steel. Edit for shitty spell check skills. |
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Posted: 3/5/2021 9:06:19 AM EDT
[#21]
tape up the hole really good, fill the fcg pocket with jb weld and re mill it after it hardens. paint it when you are done
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Posted: 3/8/2021 12:40:15 PM EDT
[#22]
someone else did this recently and drilled a hole for a rill pin that would hold the trigger spring. Cant find the pic but maybe someone else can.
Personally I would throw it in the trash and start over. |
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Posted: 3/8/2021 12:58:28 PM EDT
[#23]
I have a lower this happened on. I put a trigger group in that was self contained, along with anti-roll pins and have never had any users with it.
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