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Link Posted: 2/19/2020 8:54:14 AM EST
Link Posted: 2/19/2020 10:39:41 AM EST
Wrap that bitch in a cut section of leather belt, use rosin and a solid bench vise. Heat the MD with a torch, use a cheater bar/pipe. It'll come off. They always do. I've even seen guys spin a P/W MD off totally trashing the bbl threads.
Link Posted: 2/25/2020 9:18:50 AM EST
Get the rench from this place. It’s awesome and you can lock it up in a vice and really do some work.
RENCH

It’s $105
Link Posted: 2/25/2020 11:15:13 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:
Wrap that bitch in a cut section of leather belt, use rosin and a solid bench vise. Heat the MD with a torch, use a cheater bar/pipe. It'll come off. They always do. I've even seen guys spin a P/W MD off totally trashing the bbl threads.
View Quote
I use this same method but I use a piece of suede rather than smooth leather belt. The rough surface of the suede gives more bite on the barrel and allows more torque to applied. I have used smooth leather in the past but it tends to let the barrel slip if it is smooth at all. Heavy duty rubber (like the side wall of an old tire or several wraps of a bicycle inner tube) will work too as it bites into and grips the barrel surface without leaving marks.
Link Posted: 4/4/2020 4:56:49 PM EST
I made some walnut vise jaw covers years ago and have used the hell out of them. I don't mess with muzzle attachments often, but when I do, I grab the gas block/sight base with the wood jaws and it always works. Haven't turned a gas block yet. The worst one I have encountered was a CMMG heavy barrel with an A2 FH. I finally had to heat it, then do the old plumber's trick of pushing first in the tightening motion, then pulling in the loosening motion. That did it but I was using so much torque that the HBAR was visibly springing. Still shot fine so I guess no harm. I installed that little Strike Ind. 'Warhog' short brake (discontinued) and it works great. I wanted the rifle to be as short as possible and with a comp for getting back on target quicker with an ACOG.
Link Posted: 4/10/2020 4:30:50 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BelinTX:
Get the rench from this place. It’s awesome and you can lock it up in a vice and really do some work.
RENCH

It’s $105
View Quote


This looks feasible. Yes. I still haven't gotten it off yet.
Link Posted: 8/29/2020 4:44:05 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BelinTX:
Get the rench from this place. It’s awesome and you can lock it up in a vice and really do some work.
RENCH

It’s $105
View Quote


Well, that didn't work, but it did leave some nice scratches on my barrel. I think the carbon from my suppressor cemented that muzzle brake on. It is now one with the barrel.
Link Posted: 9/3/2020 10:24:03 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2020 10:28:58 AM EST by MS556]
Some of you are over spending and over thinking this.

1.  Never work on the muzzle end of an AR with just a receiver block in a vice.  Never.  You will break the receiver or the barrel extension pin.  Always clamp in a vise as close to the muzzle as you can.

2.  A strip of leather around the barrel close to the muzzle and clamped hard in the vise works very well.  A short length from an old belt or old leather sling works great.  If you've got a good strong vise this is all you need.  If its carbon "welded" just soak it first overnight in a good solvent.  Something like Kroil.

3.  Clamp here, hard, angling the muzzle up a bit to get the wrench around the flats on the device:





Link Posted: 11/17/2020 11:36:41 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/17/2020 11:39:16 PM EST by MS556]
OP, did you get it off?


Link Posted: 11/18/2020 12:04:35 AM EST
Link Posted: 11/18/2020 12:20:36 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Jeepsnguns81:
I have a bench vise, so I took an old leather belt and cut two pieces the length of the vice jaws.  I gorilla glued the leather pieces to my vise jaws.  I'll put some powdered rosin on the barrel and then tighten the vise jaws.  With enough rosin and the jaws nice and tight the barrel won't spin.
View Quote


Ya this or That.....the main guy at Rainier Arms did muzzle work early on in his living room floor and his knees... John told me this .....ya I’ve been around a Long time and a Early customer of theirs.    I since done muzzle devices on that Stag upper from Rainier Many times just using a padded vise..... now I have a clam shell and Magpul loading block...... unless you have a barrel and a muzzle device Real off the trail they All work!    Reaction Rods too... cept 9mm players

H
Link Posted: 11/18/2020 12:21:42 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Jeepsnguns81:
I have a bench vise, so I took an old leather belt and cut two pieces the length of the vice jaws.  I gorilla glued the leather pieces to my vise jaws.  I'll put some powdered rosin on the barrel and then tighten the vise jaws.  With enough rosin and the jaws nice and tight the barrel won't spin.
View Quote


Ya this or That.....the main guy at Rainier Arms did muzzle work early on in his living room floor and his knees... John told me this .....ya I’ve been around a Long time and a Early customer of theirs.    I since done muzzle devices on that Stag upper from Rainier Many times just using a padded vise..... now I have a clam shell and Magpul loading block...... unless you have a barrel and a muzzle device Real off the trail they All work!    Reaction Rods too... cept 9mm players

H
Link Posted: 11/18/2020 12:22:46 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Jeepsnguns81:
I have a bench vise, so I took an old leather belt and cut two pieces the length of the vice jaws.  I gorilla glued the leather pieces to my vise jaws.  I'll put some powdered rosin on the barrel and then tighten the vise jaws.  With enough rosin and the jaws nice and tight the barrel won't spin.
View Quote


Ya this or That.....the main guy at Rainier Arms did muzzle work early on in his living room floor and his knees... John told me this .....ya I’ve been around a Long time and a Early customer of theirs.    I since done muzzle devices on that Stag upper from Rainier Many times just using a padded vise..... now I have a clam shell and Magpul loading block...... unless you have a barrel and a muzzle device Real off the trail they All work!    Reaction Rods too... cept 9mm players

H
Link Posted: 11/18/2020 12:24:42 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Jeepsnguns81:
I have a bench vise, so I took an old leather belt and cut two pieces the length of the vice jaws.  I gorilla glued the leather pieces to my vise jaws.  I'll put some powdered rosin on the barrel and then tighten the vise jaws.  With enough rosin and the jaws nice and tight the barrel won't spin.
View Quote


Ya this or That.....the main guy at Rainier Arms did muzzle work early on in his living room floor and his knees... John told me this .....ya I’ve been around a Long time and a Early customer of theirs.    I since done muzzle devices on that Stag upper from Rainier Many times just using a padded vise..... now I have a clam shell and Magpul loading block...... unless you have a barrel and a muzzle device Real off the trail they All work!    Reaction Rods too... cept 9mm players

H
Link Posted: 12/20/2020 10:05:40 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MS556:
OP, did you get it off?


View Quote

@MS556

Nope. I’m about to build an similar upper, and then try and take that one apart. Soak it kroil oil and then see what I can do. It’s no joke.
Link Posted: 12/20/2020 10:09:43 PM EST
It's been just days short of a year.
Link Posted: 12/21/2020 2:53:06 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:
It's been just days short of a year.
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Funny how time flies and muzzle brakes don’t come off.
Link Posted: 1/1/2021 1:25:49 AM EST
[Last Edit: 1/1/2021 1:29:21 AM EST by MS556]
Deleted repost.

Link Posted: 1/9/2021 10:28:49 AM EST
I've always used 2x4 blocks drilled like shown in the link listed previously BUT that link shows a serious common error. That guy drilled 'with the grain' of the wood. You should always drill against the grain that way the wood will never split.

When removing high temp Loctite I always clamp the barrel and use a small propane torch. Heat up the muzzle device until you start to see smoke then it should twist off without a lot of torque. The torch will NOT harm the part or the finish. Many use a heat gun, but I prefer a torch (higher BTU).

I've been told to NEVER use an upper receiver block when torquing on a barrel. Upper receiver blocks are said to only be used for installing barrel nuts. Those action rods would be perfectly fine, but quite expensive and not necessary at all.
Link Posted: 2/11/2021 5:20:32 PM EST
I've always used a scrap 6"x6" piece of leather and a regular vise.  Never had a muzzle device I couldn't get off.
Link Posted: 2/11/2021 6:06:38 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TechOps:
Might the muzzle device be pinned?
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If not pinned,  try soaking muzzle down in some carb cleaner over night.
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