User Panel
Posted: 12/27/2019 11:30:37 PM EDT
So I have a gemtech suppressor and it’s getting some serious buildup in the flash suppressor building up around the bore. The flash suppressor is not budging as I think it’s carbon locked and there’s nothing to grab ahold of the barrel with a wrench other than using my hand to unscrew the flash suppressor. Any suggestions?
|
|
I think everyone who does their own work should have one of these: upper receiver vice block
|
|
Heat the flash suppressor up with flame.
Barrel vice clamps. |
|
Quoted:
I think everyone who does their own work should have one of these: upper receiver vice block View Quote |
|
Get something that engages the locking lugs like a bev block from magpul
|
|
Quoted:
I have one of those. I’m afraid I’m going to break it trying to unscrew it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I think everyone who does their own work should have one of these: upper receiver vice block |
|
If it was installed with Rocksett just leave the muzzle submerged in a jar of water overnight.
Water for Rocksett Heat for Locktite |
|
Quoted:
I think everyone who does their own work should have one of these: upper receiver vice block View Quote The proper thing is to use a barrel block/vise as was previously suggested. |
|
Best tool I have found for barrel and MD installs. It’s expensive but worth every penny
MI Upper Receiver Rod |
|
|
|
If it's frozen, DO NOT attempt to remove it without a barrel vise. You can usually get away with removing muzzle devices using a vise block or reaction rod, but if it's frozen on there for some reason you're going to run a serious risk of unthreading your barrel from the extension.
|
|
Quoted:
If it's frozen, DO NOT attempt to remove it without a barrel vise. You can usually get away with removing muzzle devices using a vise block or reaction rod, but if it's frozen on there for some reason you're going to run a serious risk of unthreading your barrel from the extension. View Quote |
|
Yep, barrel vise.
You could try to make your own, but the key is having a vise. |
|
Quoted:
Yep, barrel vise. You could try to make your own, but the key is having a vise. View Quote |
|
$250 for a barrel vise!??????
We must have different defintions of what a barrel vise is. Presuming one already has a vise, work can be done with rubber mat thru aluminum angle. |
|
I’ve used it more times than I thought I would, only way I do muzzle devices now. |
|
Quoted:
$250 for a barrel vise!?????? We must have different defintions of what a barrel vise is. Presuming one already has a vise, work can be done with rubber mat thru aluminum angle. View Quote |
|
|
View Quote And if you put the wood blocks in a shop press they’ll just split. You need steel blocks in a barrel vise, with either a jack or bolts. If it’s just an AR FH you can get away with aluminum blocks, maybe even nylon. But definitely not pine. |
|
This is when having a pinned A-frame FSB is great, since it's easy to clamp in a padded vice.
Spray penetrating oil at the suppressor threads, and let it sit an hour with gravity pulling the oil into the threads. Then clamp the barrel as best you can in a padded vice, and heat the suppressor with an oxy-acetylene torch. The penetrating oil will catch fire, but NBD. Keep the flame off the barrel to prevent discoloring it. Unscrew using a wrench. |
|
Quoted:
I’ve tried it. Vise doesn’t have enough force. Barrel just spins. And if you put the wood blocks in a shop press they’ll just split. You need steel blocks in a barrel vise, with either a jack or bolts. If it’s just an AR FH you can get away with aluminum blocks, maybe even nylon. But definitely not pine. View Quote |
|
Quoted:
I’ve tried it. Vise doesn’t have enough force. Barrel just spins. And if you put the wood blocks in a shop press they’ll just split. You need steel blocks in a barrel vise, with either a jack or bolts. If it’s just an AR FH you can get away with aluminum blocks, maybe even nylon. But definitely not pine. View Quote |
|
|
I'm cheap so an old thick leather belt wrapped around barrel clamped in a vise.
|
|
Home made wooden barrel clamp worked for me.
I agree with the soaking in water with the assumption that Rocksett was used. I just took one off an just set it barrel down in a bowl of boiling water for about 15 minutes and it came of fairly easily. Not sure if hot water helps but I figure it wouldn't hurt to get it to soak into the Rocksett faster. |
|
|
|
Quoted:
Yea it's getting hard to find for some reason. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
|
Muzzle down over night soak of the brake in this:
https://www.boretech.com/products/c4-carbon-remover |
|
Barrel clamping blocks in my bench vise.
Just using the receiver clamp pieces in the vise scares the hell out of me (looks like something is going to slip or break.) |
|
Line your barrel block with paper or cardboard and it will prevent spinning and help grip the barrel without damaging the finish. The trick is to get the vise tight and using the right size of barrel block. I sometimes have to hit my vise handle with a rubber mallet to get it tight enough.
|
|
Quoted:
I’ve tried it. Vise doesn’t have enough force. Barrel just spins. And if you put the wood blocks in a shop press they’ll just split. You need steel blocks in a barrel vise, with either a jack or bolts. If it’s just an AR FH you can get away with aluminum blocks, maybe even nylon. But definitely not pine. View Quote Clamp two pieces of 1x stock with a piece of cardboard or tag board in between to space them apart slightly, then drill the hole centered on the cardboard. That way you can clamp the barrel without the blocks touching each other and the full clamping force is applied to the barrel. |
|
There seems to be a pissing contest over what is the best way to clamp a barrel. I’m not wading into that mess, but I will say you want something that directly clamps the barrel.
You do not want this, nor this, or this. You’d stand the very real possibility of unscrewing the barrel from the extension. Those tools serve a purpose, I own each of the three, but they are not the right tool for this project. |
|
I have a bench vise, so I took an old leather belt and cut two pieces the length of the vice jaws. I gorilla glued the leather pieces to my vise jaws. I'll put some powdered rosin on the barrel and then tighten the vise jaws. With enough rosin and the jaws nice and tight the barrel won't spin.
|
|
Quoted:
Not unless the barrel has flats on it. You'll never get a vise tight enough. I know because I've tried. The barrel just spins. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
$250 for a barrel vise!?????? We must have different defintions of what a barrel vise is. Presuming one already has a vise, work can be done with rubber mat thru aluminum angle. |
|
FYI Rosin at Midway
|
|
Back in PA I had acess to an old vise it looked like a Prentiss BULL DOG Bench Vise No. 53, never had anything slip in that vice, as a kid I ruined more parts with over clamping than I can to admit. You just don't see these for sale like the old Parker or Prentiss anymore,
as posted always clamp closet to where you are working, I've used hard maple for blocks and crush the wood to fit or I'd cut a set of V blocks out of hard maple. Using any kind or upper receiver block clamping fixture for muzzle work is just asking for trouble. |
|
Quoted:
Not unless the barrel has flats on it. You'll never get a vise tight enough. I know because I've tried. The barrel just spins. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
$250 for a barrel vise!?????? We must have different defintions of what a barrel vise is. Presuming one already has a vise, work can be done with rubber mat thru aluminum angle. The barrel will not spin. You need a good vice though... |
|
Quoted:
Best tool I have found for barrel and MD installs. It’s expensive but worth every penny MI Upper Receiver Rod View Quote |
|
|
Quoted: This. Did you figure it out, OP? View Quote @abnk Even what you possibly linked I'm wondering if I could twist the barrel. That flash suppressor is on there, and no it isn't pinned. I can see carbon like concrete built up on the sides where it meets flash suppressor to the throat of the muzzle. It's why I'm wanting to take the flash suppressor so I can clean it. I'm guessing it's build up from the crappy foam cleaner I was using and the carbon from the suppresor. I switched up barrel cleaners. I'm now using Bore tech eliminator which is amazing! |
|
Quoted:
Muzzle down over night soak of the brake in this: https://www.boretech.com/products/c4-carbon-remover View Quote |
|
Green loctite can sometimes be broken free by a deep freeze...if you have a good freezer, it may not hurt to try.
|
|
|
|
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.