So I’m new to zeroing a LPVO. I’ve got a Burris rt-6 sitting on a .308 FAL

Do I have to have it set on 1x and sight it in at 100 yards?

If so, is it ok to use one of those sights that replicates 100 yards, but at shorter distances?  As in, put the dot on the bullseye but there is a second bullseye where the bullet actually hits at a given distance….say 25 yards (all I have access to at the moment)

Anything special I should know?

I would bore sight it first to at least be sure you can get holes on paper.

I do that at 20 yards, which happens to be the length of my side porch. I use a standard 100yd target but I draw a second scope 'bulls eye' about 1.4 inches above the actual bulls eye on the target. Using the bi-pod to stabilize the sight picture and with the BCG removed and lower receiver held open with a piece of wood to be able to sight through the bore,  adjust the scope so the cross hairs are on the scope bulls eye and the barrel sight picture is on the lower target bulls eye.

The distance between the two bulls eyes is dependent on the height above bore of your scope and the distance to your target. This should get you within the 6 or 7 ring when sighting in at 50 yards at the range - depending on how accurate your bore sight skills are. When sighting in at 50 (or whatever you want to use) with real ammo you should set the scope to max magnification.

You can zero it at whatever magnification you like.  Max magnification is always easiest for my eyes.

There are targets to replicate a 100 yard zero at 25 yards, but keep in mind sometimes it might not be spot on at 100.

I thought it might have mattered for the bdc lines and that’s why it had to be at 1x. Thank you!

Yes, great point. No special targets could possible accurately anticipate the ballistics that your rifle and the ammo you are using will produce.

I depends on if your scope is a FFP or SFP.   bdc lines on a SFP glass only have meaning at the max magnification. for a FFP they are "usable" at any magnification.

Nope. You just zero the main aiming point. The RT6 uses MIL’s so you will have to calculate your drop and learn which hash marks hit where you want.

Something like Primary Arms develops their reticles to be point and shoot instead, but then if you use a different ammunition or barrel length, you have to figure out the differences.

Don't these things come with little booklets that tell you how to use the knobs?

If you have a sled or something you can lock the rifle down, shoot once. Without moving anything, adjust the crosshairs to the bullet hole. Shoot again to confirm.

If you don’t have something that would allow that, shoot groups.

BDC reticle should get you in the neighborhood. But there’s different weight bullets and charges vary, so ballistic trajectories will vary. Don’t expect them to be dead on. But an FAL isn’t a precision rifle anyway.

You’d think that, wouldn’t you?  But the booklet that came with this is surprisingly light on details. I figured it was just a quick start guide and the main one could be found online but nope. At least I can’t find it

Check out Strelok Pro.

Here is a post on another forum showing the RT6’s drop with M193. Scroll down to see in the link.

Personally, I think MIL is over complicating anything a 5.56 LPVO needs. I much prefer a simple BDC that gets me close, but you also have to ask yourself how often you’ll shoot that far.

If you are shooting big silhouettes, the BDC will probably do it.  Want to take some headshots? Stray from M193 and want to play with mk262? Lady luck will need to be on your side.

Heh. It’s on my FAL. (.308)

I use an xtr14 on my stg58 and it has about the same reticle - bdc with circle/dot.

I mounted with warne qd low rings so sight height is 2.7" over bore.  I've seen some insanely high scopes on FALs so the flight path on those rounds has to be completely useless for any bdc.

Zero at 6x.  That is the only time your bdc works as advertised in a sfp.  My zero is 100m so I could get close by hitting at 25 yards with the 400 hash mark.  You could aim with the 300 and you'd be pretty close at 50 (assuming a low mount).

ETA: keep in mind when I say "400 yard hash" it means only that Burris intended it as such for an AR firing 62gr 5.56.  Personally, mine is a 340m hold for M80.
100m,175 (.3mil),250(1),340(1.75),425(2.75)
Not sure if Burris kept the same holds for the RT6.

If I absolutely had to choose someone to shoot at me it would be her

Reticle must be an x with that job leveling and about 4" over bore.....

Full disclosure, I've only shot my FAL out to 390m and do ok on 66% silhouette.  I hold the 500yard hash (my 425m) at the bottom of the target and guess wind (that hash mark is 1mil so .5 to 1 side is about right for half value wind).

Dupe

Make sure you are not overlooking some documentation. The last few scopes I bought had 2 booklets: one for the scope and one for the reticle.

Oops stupid double post.

And here, https://www.burrisoptics.com/scopes/rt-6-riflescopes-series/rt-6-riflescope-1-6x24mm the RT riflescope guide has some pages on the reticles and turrets.

Swap M193 and Mk262 for M80 and your favorite 168/178gr OTM and it’s the same issue.