

Posted: 1/20/2021 12:36:25 PM EST
I currently got the standard carbine buffer in my AR, and I found the recoil to be a bit more noticeable that I expected. I want to go as heavy as possible for my buffer weight, but I wanted to know if any of you found reliability issues with the H2 buffer in carbine gas lengths in a 16" barrel. I plan on shooting standard .223 loads 55 grain. I may occasionally use Tul or Wolf for plinking.
Is the H a safer option? Is there often noticeable recoil differences between using an H vs an H2? I may end up just getting 1 of each, but I prefer just to keep 1 in my gun for primary use. If the H2 is reliable for multiple loads and under different conditions, I'll plan on using that. Otherwise I'll go with the H. Thanks! |
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My 16" carbine gas Aero runs fine with an H buffer. It also ran fine on a different lower that had a carbine buffer. Couldn't tell a difference in function or felt recoil.
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[Last Edit: 1/20/2021 12:48:34 PM EST by Bigger_Hammer]
EVERY gun is different.
Generally a H1 won't affect running with most loads. Going to H2 MAY affect your reliability, especially when using weak loads (like Tula) Only way you will know is to TRY it and figure out Works / Doesn't Work on YOUR gun. |
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LIFE'S JOURNEY IS NOT TO ARRIVE AT THE GRAVE SAFELY IN A WELL PRESERVED BODY,
BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT SHOUTING "HOLY $H!T...WHAT A RIDE"!! |
Originally Posted By Bigger_Hammer: EVERY gun is different. Generally a H1 won't affect running with most loads. Going to H2 MAY affect your reliability, especially when using weak loads (like Tula) Only way you will know is to TRY it and figure out Works / Doesn't Work on YOUR gun. View Quote Simplest/accurate answer. |
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Site VS Sight....it's a tough one....
"Can't never could 'til try came along". |
Last carbine gas 16” I had used an H3.
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I use an H1 in my 16" carbine gas length rifle and haven't had any issues.
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Hurt my animals and I will unleash a level of crazy that will make your nightmares seem like a happy place.
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Originally Posted By Bigger_Hammer: EVERY gun is different. Generally a H1 won't affect running with most loads. Going to H2 MAY affect your reliability, especially when using weak loads (like Tula) Only way you will know is to TRY it and figure out Works / Doesn't Work on YOUR gun. View Quote Currently running an H2 with a Sprinco blue in a suppressed 14.5 midlength with a BRT restricted gas tube, that's as close as I have to a "16. Exceptionally reliable. |
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Depends on a few factors. LMT runs C buffers and are 100% reliable.
Buy a few and see what gets you a reliable 3-4 ejection pattern. |
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Those who would give up essential liberty, to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Scott: Last carbine gas 16” I had used an H3. View Quote I have H2's in all my carbine gassed rifles. H3's in the Mk18's which run cans. As stated earlier, you need to experiment to find what works best with your rifle/ammo combination. Testing heavy weight buffers in the winter is a good idea. If it runs below freezing, it will run all the time. |
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I'd just throw an H2 in it and run it. If you wind up having issues then go lighter. I cant imagine that you're going to though. I normally run an H1 in my 16" mid length BCM, but I've tried ammo all the way down to cheap steel cased junk in it running an H2 and have never had an issue. I'm sure your carbine length will be just fine.
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Originally Posted By Stowe: I'd just throw an H2 in it and run it. If you wind up having issues then go lighter. I cant imagine that you're going to though. I normally run an H1 in my 16" mid length BCM, but I've tried ammo all the way down to cheap steel cased junk in it running an H2 and have never had an issue. I'm sure your carbine length will be just fine. View Quote I don't know where you live but this guy is running a h2 in Colorado and I assume you have a large gas port like 85% of 16" carbines sold so you should be fine with an h2. So many factors but I have h2s in already lower gassed setups along with extra power springs and all the ammo I used ran fine but weather hasn't been bad the last couple years by me. |
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H2 in BCM carbine 16"
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Great! Thanks for the input everyone. Sounds like the best option is really just to experiment. I'll go ahead and get both and try different loads.
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Don't think anyone mentioned here but if you want to experiment just buy the tungsten buffer weights so you can configure them however you want rather than buying a bunch of buffers. Much cheaper to experiment that way.
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I have a buncha colt 6920s with H buffers. They’ll run fine with an H2 or 3, but it make the recoil worse to me.
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Another tool to adjust recoil is to use aftermarket springs. I usually use the SpringCo Blue springs in most of my builds and have a variety of buffers to swap in and out. With a carbine gas system you will only really be able to squeeze a little reduction out of it in most cases. These days it seems that barrel makers use standard-large gas ports for robust functionality.
As someone mentioned, if you have some tools and know how to use them, buying a set of 3 Tungsten weights will allow you to change the weight of a standard carbine to H1, H2, or H3. |
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Blessed be the Lord, my rock, Who trains my hands for war, And my fingers for battle. - Psalm 144:1
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Keep in mind everything you "improve" on an AR may also have negative effects. Adding more mass and heavy springs is going to affect dwell and bolt energy on the return. More isn't always better, but if they made an H11 someone would use it because 11.
You shouldn't be changing buffers to affect felt recoil. Your gauge should be ejection pattern. 3:00-4:30 and leave it. Optimal > more. Having the right gas port/ammo combination is ideal, changing springs and buffers is usually a work-around. But it may be your solution to being able to swap between weak and full power ammo. Just achieve the right ejection pattern and ignore recoil. |
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When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
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Ejection pattern isn’t a good way to tune them either. The real measure is carrier velocity but that’s hard to measure on a semi gun without specialized equipment.
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Originally Posted By Brianvr6: You shouldn't be changing buffers to affect felt recoil. View Quote You probably shouldn't be changing anything on an AR15 to affect recoil, unless you're a competition shooter where that pursuit might actually provide some kind of benefit. I've seen so many people impulsively swap out buffers, springs, muzzle devices and gas systems for no reason other than wanting "less recoil" and they usually only succeed in decreasing the reliability of a rifle that functioned fine to begin with. Is it reliable right now? Are you satisfied with the accuracy? That should be your ultimate goal. I can't say I've ever shot an AR15 and thought to myself wow that thing kicks too hard! |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Scott: Ejection pattern isn’t a good way to tune them either. The real measure is carrier velocity but that’s hard to measure on a semi gun without specialized equipment. View Quote Ejection pattern is the best I've got to go on. As long as gas ports, buffers, carriers are all within a normal range I can't think of a better way to fine tune it and no way I'm buying equipment to measure velocity of carriers or African or European Swallows (which I already know are about 24mph based on their ejection pattern). |
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When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
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You could try loading one round & shoot to see if it locked the bolt back on empty.
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Originally Posted By Brianvr6: Ejection pattern is the best I've got to go on. As long as gas ports, buffers, carriers are all within a normal range I can't think of a better way to fine tune it and no way I'm buying equipment to measure velocity of carriers or African or European Swallows (which I already know are about 24mph based on their ejection pattern). View Quote Measured ROF on an auto lower is my favorite way. ![]() |
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I have a small amount of some Hornady defense stuff but my stockpile is basic 55-62 gr. I use H3s in all my carbines and pistols. Works great.
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Originally Posted By Bigger_Hammer: EVERY gun is different. Generally a H1 won't affect running with most loads. Going to H2 MAY affect your reliability, especially when using weak loads (like Tula) Only way you will know is to TRY it and figure out Works / Doesn't Work on YOUR gun. View Quote This. I have a Larue barrel that I was running H3 on before getting an ADJ GB. My BA Hanson build is running an H2. My cheap coyote rifle is running an H1. All cycle and eject great. The Larue wouldnt until i got H3 and even then it was slightly overgassed. |
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What's your gas port size?
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Originally Posted By ctres94: Don't think anyone mentioned here but if you want to experiment just buy the tungsten buffer weights so you can configure them however you want rather than buying a bunch of buffers. Much cheaper to experiment that way. View Quote Do this. You can get a 3 pack of the tungsten weight for about the same price as a buffer. That way you can swap out the weights and see what works best. All you need is a hammer and a roll pin punch, which everyone should have if they own a AR. I found out mine performed the best with a H3. I started out with regular buffer, then went to H1, and it shot a little better, then H2, it was better, then H3 and even better. Less felt recoil, smoother feeling, gun moved less, just all around better. But like mentioned above, every gun is different and you just have to try it and see what yours likes best. This is the kit I got: https://pur-tungsten.com/product/tungsten-recoil-buffer-weights/ |
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