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Posted: 10/15/2018 7:13:35 AM EDT
Hey guys! So a while ago I sold my Mk18 Mod1 upper and now I don't have a short upper anymore, other than my XM177E1. I kicked around the idea of using my SCAR as my go-to/SHTF/whatever you want to call it rifle. But then I decided that with the cost of having repair parts on hand being retarded coupled with the fact that I can handle an AR better and faster (I know that's a training thing) and the fact that i had to use modified or Gen 3 PMAGs and they don't always drop free, that I would go with what I'm good at and build a quality 10.5 upper.
Anyways, so I've decided on most of the parts already. I have an upper on the way and I'm going to go with a Geissele Mk13 or Mk14 rail and I already have a T1 on a LaRue riser to put on there, as well as a Surefire M952V for a light. Also plan on picking up one of the new LaRue triggers. But what I'm not sure of is my barrel choice or, to a lesser extent, BCG. So right now what I do know is that I would like for the rifle to be light. I'm mainly looking at lightweight barrels. I'm leaning towards a Rainier stainless lw match 223 Wylde barrel but I'm not sure I need all that. I've also read a bit about 556 chamber barrels having slightly larger tolerances, making them a bit more reliable when dirty. While accuracy is important, this is a 10.5 rifle, not a match rifle. That being said, what kind of barrel suggestions do you guys have? I'd like lightweight profile, chrome lining, and either 1/7 or 1/8 twist. Or should I just go with the Ranier? Secondly, on the BCG. I love chrome bolt groups because they're super easy to clean and don't seem to gum up as much as the non chromed ones. But what about NIB? Are they worth it and reliable? I have zero experience with them. I will be running this gun suppressed often, so that is a factor. Is NIB worth it or should I just go with chrome? Or is phosphate just fine? Thanks in advance! Any suggestions are appreciated. |
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Since you did not mention anything about cloning and simply want a SHTF 10.5'', I would suggest=
A Nitride Toolcraft BCG and a Nitride Faxon 5.56 Gunner barrel. Both are inexpensive and both are arguably the most durable, reliable and lasting BCG and barrel obtainable. Why do you want an inferior chrome lined/ Parked barrel finish when QPQ Nitride is not only less expensive but superior in all ways? |
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Hey guys! So a while ago I sold my Mk18 Mod1 upper and now I don't have a short upper anymore, other than my XM177E1. I kicked around the idea of using my SCAR as my go-to/SHTF/whatever you want to call it rifle. But then I decided that with the cost of having repair parts on hand being retarded coupled with the fact that I can handle an AR better and faster (I know that's a training thing) and the fact that i had to use modified or Gen 3 PMAGs and they don't always drop free, that I would go with what I'm good at and build a quality 10.5 upper. Anyways, so I've decided on most of the parts already. I have an upper on the way and I'm going to go with a Geissele Mk13 or Mk14 rail and I already have a T1 on a LaRue riser to put on there, as well as a Surefire M952V for a light. Also plan on picking up one of the new LaRue triggers. But what I'm not sure of is my barrel choice or, to a lesser extent, BCG. So right now what I do know is that I would like for the rifle to be light. I'm mainly looking at lightweight barrels. I'm leaning towards a Rainier stainless lw match 223 Wylde barrel but I'm not sure I need all that. I've also read a bit about 556 chamber barrels having slightly larger tolerances, making them a bit more reliable when dirty. While accuracy is important, this is a 10.5 rifle, not a match rifle. That being said, what kind of barrel suggestions do you guys have? I'd like lightweight profile, chrome lining, and either 1/7 or 1/8 twist. Or should I just go with the Ranier? Secondly, on the BCG. I love chrome bolt groups because they're super easy to clean and don't seem to gum up as much as the non chromed ones. But what about NIB? Are they worth it and reliable? I have zero experience with them. I will be running this gun suppressed often, so that is a factor. Is NIB worth it or should I just go with chrome? Or is phosphate just fine? Thanks in advance! Any suggestions are appreciated. View Quote BCG, any known MFG will work. Toolcraft is a primary go-to for those not wanting to spend the extra (twice as much really, or more) on a colt or BCM. The returns are rather diminishing at that point. Toolcraft, AIM phosphate, or even the PSA premium will suit nicely. I'm not a fan of NIB; it stains quickly and wears down to being useless eventually. Tolerance stacking can become an issue more quickly with NIB than with others. I tend to stay with nitride or phosphate for BCGs. |
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Since writing this post, I did look at the DD 10.3 a bit. It's a good looking barrel too. Can I ask how the chrome lined barrels are interior? Sorry, I've been on a C&R kick lately a and now getting back to ARs, I apparently missed a few new barrel features and linings that came out haha
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There's a relatively new thread right up your alley with that question.
Borescope photos ETA: Didn't you have a sweet AKS-74U? Name looks familiar. |
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Haha thanks, yeah I still have the AKS74U. Just wish surplus Russian ammo hadn't dried up. I rarely get to shoot it anymore.
Thanks for the link, too! I'll check out that thread. |
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Don't have recommendations on the barrel. However, if you are going for lightweight, that light is a bit of a tank.
Nick |
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Since you did not mention anything about cloning and simply want a SHTF 10.5'', I would suggest= A Nitride Toolcraft BCG and a Nitride Faxon 5.56 Gunner barrel. Both are inexpensive and both are arguably the most durable, reliable and lasting BCG and barrel obtainable. Why do you want an inferior chrome lined/ Parked barrel finish when QPQ Nitride is not only less expensive but superior in all ways? View Quote |
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I have two Faxon barrels, 11.5” and 14.5” Gunner, and have been very pleased with their accuracy as well as fit and finish. I own some high dollar barrels, including several WOA, but the Faxons shoot just as well.
Beware that with the Gunner profile 11.5” bbl, SLR 10.5” hand guard and 11.6 oz direct thread suppressor I had to switch to a Minimalist stock to balance the rifle. I think the previous stock was a Magpul STR, and it was too heavy to get the rifle to balance. Faxon featherweight 10.5”: (don’t recall how to make link hit so cold) https://faxonfirearms.com/10-5-pencil-5-56-nato-carbine-length-4150-qpq/ |
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The deduction of 4 to 5.5 inches gets you better manuverability but gets you more noise and flash at low light. Is it really worth it? Or am I wrong?
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The deduction of 4 to 5.5 inches gets you better manuverability but gets you more noise and flash at low light. Is it really worth it? Or am I wrong? View Quote |
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Since writing this post, I did look at the DD 10.3 a bit. It's a good looking barrel too. Can I ask how the chrome lined barrels are interior? Sorry, I've been on a C&R kick lately a and now getting back to ARs, I apparently missed a few new barrel features and linings that came out haha View Quote I have become a fan of QPQ/ Nitride although I also find chrome lined to be an excellent barrel finish as well. Either will last a lifetime so either is acceptable really. The benefits of Nitride are= Nitride is a process that hardens and makes corrosion resistant the outer layer of steel rather than being a coating like chrome. Since Nitride does not change the dimension of the steel like a coating it does not effect accuracy like a chrome lining. Nitride can be done to existing barrels and stainless barrels unlike chrome lined. Nitride protects the entire barrel inside and out unlike chrome lining. Chrome lining requires another finish on the exterior of the barrel. Nitride is as hard as chrome but is much thicker. Chrome lining is approx. .0005'' and M249 is around .001''. Nitride is approx. .01-.024''. Even M249 chrome lining is less than a tenth as thick as Nitride. Nitride is more corrosion resistant than chrome and again protects the entire barrel. Some will say that chrome degrades slower than Nitride in extreme heat from sustained full auto but I have seen no evidence to this. The only side by side testing I know of in sustained full auto showed Nitride to last better. If chrome does indeed degrade slower in extreme heat, it is a temperature that is not attainable in a semi auto weapon anyway. Only hundreds of rounds in sustained full auto can produce temperatures high enough for it to even become relevant. Again, the benefit of one over the other in extreme heat from full auto is unproven either way at this point. This is why a chrome lined/ parked barrel finish is inferior to QPQ. Chrome lining/ Parkerizing is also more time consuming than Nitriding so the barrel cost is greater. The cost of chrome lining being higher is why I assume some still prefer it, assuming it is a higher quality barrel finish. In reality, a Nitride barrel will last longer, be more accurate, more corrosion resistant and cost less than than an identical chrome lined barrel. Manufacturers wanting to sell higher priced barrels and consumers assuming higher cost equals higher quality is the only reason chrome is still used, IMO. |
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The deduction of 4 to 5.5 inches gets you better manuverability but gets you more noise and flash at low light. Is it really worth it? Or am I wrong? View Quote So, a 10.5” suppressed is much quieter, with greatly reduced flash, at about the same weight and length as a 16” rifle. My 10.5” with QD suppressor and my 11.5” with dt suppressor are both shorter than a 16” with A2 fh. The 10.5” has a heavy profile bbl and with the suppressor weights about same as a .gov profile 16.” The 11.5” with Faxon Gunner bbl and suppressor weighs a lot less. |
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A 10.3" is great for cloning a MK18. But if you aren't cloning, then I would suggest a 11.3"/11.5".
I used a 11.3" BA barrel during a 3-day course with Paul Howe earlier this year. I had a few FTE's due to a bad extractor, once I swapped it out, it was perfectly reliable. Nicely gassed, and it did well out to the 300 yards we were shooting. |
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Ballistic Advantage 10.3" Hanson barrel. Your choice of regular .750" gas block size and barrel weight at 20 oz. or .625" gas block size and light(er)weight barrel at 17 oz.. Comes with user pinnable (with included coil pin) low pro gas block.
Have the heavier version and love it. https://www.armorally.com/shop/ballistic-advantage-556-performance-series-10-3-hanson-barrel/ Lighter version. https://www.armorally.com/shop/ballistic-advantage-556-performance-series-10-3-hanson-barrel-625/ Brownell's Chrome BCG: https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/bolt-carrier-groups/m16-chrome-bolt-carrier-group-sku078000375-109980-207990.aspx?rrec=true |
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A 10.3" is great for cloning a MK18. But if you aren't cloning, then I would suggest a 11.3"/11.5". I used a 11.3" BA barrel during a 3-day course with Paul Howe earlier this year. I had a few FTE's due to a bad extractor, once I swapped it out, it was perfectly reliable. Nicely gassed, and it did well out to the 300 yards we were shooting. View Quote |
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Since this is a SHTF carbine, that's not really a concern. So I'll probably stick with 10.3/10.5. View Quote |
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Another vote for faxon. I love my 10.5" pencil barrel. Especially for a shtf rifle that will be carried more than shot, there isn't a lot of reason to go with a heavier profile.
With a urx4, T1/scalarworks, b5 stock and arisaka light, it weighs less than 6.5lbs |
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BCM BFH ELW would be my barrel choice.
BCM or Colt FA BCG would be my 1st and 2nd choices. |
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I looked on BCM's website. Only 11.5" is available.
I'm far from a short barrel expert, but have always understood 11.5 to be the minimum length for adverse reliability. I'd give up 1" of OAL if it meant (marginally) higher muzzle velocity but more importantly more reliability across a broader spectrum of variables (cold weather, fouling, under powdered ammo, etc). |
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I haven't heard where less than 11.5 is unreliable. I know most SOF uses 10.3 and haven't heard much in the way that they are unreliable.
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I haven't heard where less than 11.5 is unreliable. I know most SOF uses 10.3 and haven't heard much in the way that they are unreliable. View Quote These days, like you point out, the 10" guns have such a good track record that there is really nothing to worry about. Nonetheless, the old talking points persist. |
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I looked on BCM's website. Only 11.5" is available. I'm far from a short barrel expert, but have always understood 11.5 to be the minimum length for adverse reliability. I'd give up 1" of OAL if it meant (marginally) higher muzzle velocity but more importantly more reliability across a broader spectrum of variables (cold weather, fouling, under powdered ammo, etc). View Quote Guys, he said 10.x. Why is 11 still being talked about? OP get a decent Faxon or BA and skip the stupid pencil barrel. What people who post more than they shoot and who’s guns probably aren’t even zero’d don’t understand is just how much those groupings open up after even moderate shooting. You’ll go from ringing a steel 10 inch gong at 75 yards no problem to missing more than you probably should be quicker than you think. Then you’ll wonder what the hell is going on, put the gun on a bench and still have some misses. Then as you sit and wonder your hand almost catches on fire from barrel heat and you’ll go, “huh”, the professional posters strike again. *shoots about once a week in the desert under a variety of scenarios. Not just at a static range from a bench. |
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I've run my 10.3" guns in some pretty adverse conditions without reliability issues - just about anything you can think of available in a desert environment (so no extreme cold or a jungle type conditions, heh). Specifically, my DD 10.3" .070 barrel has been run with extreme fouling, underpowered ammo, 2,000+ rounds without lubing, in very dusty environments, rain, and extreme heat. It has proven to be as reliable as any AR I've ever owned. Besides, outside of my own personal and anecdotal experiences, 10.3" CQBRs are in use by SOF all over the world - I've never heard of any major reliability concerns.
In my opinion, a 10.3" barrel with a suppressor is already long enough. Adding further length just serves to decrease the utility you want in a shorty to begin with - such as good maneuverability inside vehicles or other tight quarters - without any significant gains. If you're going to be running a suppresser the majority of the time, I think 10.3/10.5 is optimal. ETA: As far as barrel choices, you can't go wrong with a current production DD 10.3". Since you're going to be running suppressed, gas port size is going to be a concern unless you decide to employ an adjustable gas block or BCG. I would avoid any barrel with a gas port larger than .070" for a primarily suppressed gun (hell, I'd avoid larger ports period). I've also recently started running a 10.3" .070 barrel from Andro/BA, and while I don't have as much time with it as a DD 10.3", thus far I have no complaints at all. |
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That's what I thought...I've deployed with SF dudes and they ran the CQBR more often than not, and that was jungle environment. Zero complaints or failures.
I'm more than likely gonna go with the DD barrel. It's a proven barrel from a proven company and is plenty light for my purposes. |
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What ammo are you using?
I believe 55 gr isn't a reliable performer in short barrels due to lower velocity but not certain. I think those issued 10.5 shoot 77 gr stuff? |
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Quoted: What people who post more than they shoot and who’s guns probably aren’t even zero’d don’t understand is just how much those groupings open up after even moderate shooting. View Quote You may want to bay the attitude, haas. Your entire post was antagonistic. |
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Quoted: Um, the military and tons of SWAT and civis would like to have a word with whoever tried to tell you 11.5 is the minimum for blah blah....... Guys, he said 10.x. Why is 11 still being talked about? OP get a decent Faxon or BA and skip the stupid pencil barrel. What people who post more than they shoot and who’s guns probably aren’t even zero’d don’t understand is just how much those groupings open up after even moderate shooting. You’ll go from ringing a steel 10 inch gong at 75 yards no problem to missing more than you probably should be quicker than you think. Then you’ll wonder what the hell is going on, put the gun on a bench and still have some misses. Then as you sit and wonder your hand almost catches on fire from barrel heat and you’ll go, “huh”, the professional posters strike again. *shoots about once a week in the desert under a variety of scenarios. Not just at a static range from a bench. View Quote |
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New poster but I have some experience here. If you have the money to spend it will be hard to go wrong with a DD, Noveske, FN, or a BCM (if you are willing to step up to the 11.5") All would be CHF, Chrome Lined, available in 1:7 twists. All great options for a go-to rifle. Only downsides besides price would be the fact that they lack pencil profile options in the lengths you are looking for which would be nice for running a can out front. However due to the fact they will be shorter ie lighter than your standard 14.5"/16" that will make up for it and keep the balance of the rifle fairly equal. If you are looking to spend a little less I think Faxon would be my go-to. Proven track record, lightweight profiles, but are nitrided rather than chrome lined, as well as button rifled vs chf rifling. Not quite as durable but still reliable as hell in my experience. For a go-to rifle I would focus more on putting my money towards durability and track record rather than match chamberings (like .223 wylde) and precision.
An adjustable gas block might be useful w/ a suppressor. My only personal experiences with those are with the JP Enterprises and Superlative Arms, both of which have ran flawless in all my builds. As far as BCGs go DD has a nice chrome option, but I wouldn't get too caught up in the coatings. NiB is great for cleaning but hard to produce accurate information regarding if they run more reliable than your typical parkerized/phosphate bcgs. Good options would be DD, BCM, Colt if you are looking for a milspec type bcg that is proven. For a more budget minded option I think it's hard to go wrong with Toolcraft as long as you don't mind the lack of a logo. Edit: I have no doubts that NiB coatings on BCGs can still produce a dead-nuts reliable part, however I view it as more of a luxury rather than necessity. If that added cost is worth it to you than go for it. For the ease of cleaning alone I love NiB. |
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What's the consensus on the Aero Precision 10.5?
Aero 10.5 @ $149 or PSA (Surely this isn't FN) PSA 10.5 @ $99 |
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What's the consensus on the Aero Precision 10.5? Aero 10.5 @ $149 or PSA (Surely this isn't FN) PSA 10.5 @ $99 View Quote https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-10-5-hammer-forged-ar15-upper.html Nick |
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My advice to keep it lightweight would be an adjustable gas block.
Most barrels are over gassed nowadays causing you to need heavier buffers ect... An adjustable gas block could allow you to tune the gun to run with say an H buffer and maybe even a lighter carrier. My 11.5" sbr is over gassed and heavy and it is very frustrating. (DD barrel btw. Known for being over gassed) I say go with lightweight FN barrel from Rainier or right to bear or wherever they are sold now. |
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10.3" DD barrel with a toolcraft nitride or DLC bcg
knights armament 11.5" mod 2 upper if you ever want a 11.5 |
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Not if you aren't shooting much past 300-400 yards. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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The difference between 10.5 and 11.5 is ~100 fps. Is that really that much of a difference to be worth an additional inch of barrel? If your wanting to go short then go 10.3 or 10.5 with nitride and suppress it for SHTF. When SHTF there is no reason to be engaging 2 legged critters at 300-400 meters anyway for anything other than suppressive fire for breaking contact. |
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Quoted: 10.5” and 11.5” only get you out to 150 yards max and that’s with expensivive ammo such as 77 grain OTM and others. Sure you can punch holes at longer ranges but if you want the ammo to do what it’s designed to do anything under 12” isn’t going to get you very far. If your wanting to go short then go 10.3 or 10.5 with nitride and suppress it for SHTF. When SHTF there is no reason to be engaging 2 legged critters at 300-400 meters anyway for anything other than suppressive fire for breaking contact. View Quote Read more. |
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Gas port size trumps just about everything, especially concerning suppressor use.
For 10.3/.5 and even 11.5s, you need a .070 gas port at max. I've been using a cut down Colt 10.3 that I had the port opened to .068 and it shoots like a dream with and without can. I also use a H2 buffer with the Geissele spring. Andro (rebranded BA) has a 10.3 with .070 gas port that isn't a bad choice. I 'believe' newer Daniel Defense 10.3s are appropriate .070 gas port now. For SHTF use, avoid any adjustable gas block. I get it, they're great for controlling gas but it's a very fallible bandaid for the underlying problem of oversized gas ports done by manufacturers to avoid customers complaining their rifles aren't working with their gun show reloads. They are great on range guns, game guns, ect, but have no place duty/shtf dependable guns. |
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knights armament 11.5" mod 2 upper if you ever want a 11.5 View Quote My Mod 2 is somewhere on the spectrum of moderately overgassed to borderline obnoxious. My other short barrels with the .070 gas port shoot way nicer and never have any issues with the standard H2+carbine spring setup. I am in the process of accumulating test parts to see if I can short stroke the new rifle and I'll be posting my findings in the Knights threads. |
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10.5” and 11.5” only get you out to 150 yards max and that’s with expensivive ammo such as 77 grain OTM and others. Sure you can punch holes at longer ranges but if you want the ammo to do what it’s designed to do anything under 12” isn’t going to get you very far. If your wanting to go short then go 10.3 or 10.5 with nitride and suppress it for SHTF. When SHTF there is no reason to be engaging 2 legged critters at 300-400 meters anyway for anything other than suppressive fire for breaking contact. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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The difference between 10.5 and 11.5 is ~100 fps. Is that really that much of a difference to be worth an additional inch of barrel? If your wanting to go short then go 10.3 or 10.5 with nitride and suppress it for SHTF. When SHTF there is no reason to be engaging 2 legged critters at 300-400 meters anyway for anything other than suppressive fire for breaking contact. |
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Quoted: 10.5” and 11.5” only get you out to 150 yards max and that’s with expensivive ammo such as 77 grain OTM and others. Sure you can punch holes at longer ranges but if you want the ammo to do what it’s designed to do anything under 12” isn’t going to get you very far. If your wanting to go short then go 10.3 or 10.5 with nitride and suppress it for SHTF. When SHTF there is no reason to be engaging 2 legged critters at 300-400 meters anyway for anything other than suppressive fire for breaking contact. View Quote Quoted: FWIW, as a new owner of a 11.5" Mod 2 factory SBR, I will actually say that the OP is best served building his own with a new DD 10.3" barrel. My Mod 2 is somewhere on the spectrum of moderately overgassed to borderline obnoxious. My other short barrels with the .070 gas port shoot way nicer and never have any issues with the standard H2+carbine spring setup. I am in the process of accumulating test parts to see if I can short stroke the new rifle and I'll be posting my findings in the Knights threads. View Quote |
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This man took the words straight out of my mouth View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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DD or FN barrel. Toolcraft BCG So, I'd amend that list to: DD 10.3" .070 Colt 10.3" .070 (Factory or cut down) Andro/BA 10.3" .070 LMT 10.5" .070 Toolcraft or Colt BCG |
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