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Posted: 1/13/2019 9:59:57 PM EDT
[#1]
That was definitely not properly installed I still don't see how it would work with the screw holes they don't line up but I'll check it out again when I get a chance later
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Posted: 1/13/2019 10:20:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I’m with DaveP1 & CRracer_712 on this, First, it sure APPEARS from one of your photos that the router jumped several times. Go SLOW! Circular CLOCKWISE cuts Try half depth cuts Vacuum chips out that remain before starting the next cut. EVERYTIME you adjust the depth, spray lube in the pocket and on the mill bit. EVERYTIME! Firmly hold the BASE when making cuts. Make sure that when you start the router it’s not touching anything and again you are FIRMLY holding the base down Let the router COMPLETELY come to a stop before removing it And then to what I’m thinking is the main issue, do you have the side block properly installed? With it properly installed on a Makita Router you SHOULD have THREE screws installed. Check out the diagram below.... https://i.imgur.com/kcz8AX9.jpg @wyomingnick |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 10:51:02 PM EDT
[#3]
That’s off of 5D Tactical’s web site. Its the “Router #2” installation instructions. The Makita is #2 instructions.
Your Makita IS the RT0701C, correct? |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 10:59:48 PM EDT
[#4]
Yes it is that one. I'll be checking it out again in a few hours.
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Posted: 1/13/2019 11:00:25 PM EDT
[#5]
Must be a generic photo as the bottom doesnt look like that.
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Posted: 1/13/2019 11:07:21 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Must be a generic photo as the bottom doesnt look like that. |
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Posted: 1/14/2019 3:57:20 AM EDT
[#7]
Here is some pics, I think its installed better.
It looks like the plastic base must come off the instructions aren't clear on that but the screws will absolutely not fit ( too short ) if I don't So I am guessing that it how it is supposed to be Yes I know the screw isn't totally centered, I fixed that. Its just practice anyway right now as the ready mill is broken.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/14/2019 4:00:40 AM EDT
[#8]
That side block, is that just to add more stability ?
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Posted: 1/14/2019 4:21:49 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That side block, is that just to add more stability ? |
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Posted: 1/14/2019 7:47:29 AM EDT
[#10]
Don’t buy another complete ReadyMill, buy the replacement mill only and change it out. Reuse the base you have. It’s very easily done with a propane torch and some pliers. I had to change mine after 6 lowers.
Hold the base, light cuts, clockwise motion, router on highest speed, lots of coolant, depth adjustment locked tight. Don’t get too discouraged! |
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Posted: 1/14/2019 10:51:04 AM EDT
[#11]
Just FYI, yes, that plastic base doesn't get used. Looks pretty good now.
I'm looking at your router base and it has more wear lines in it than mine does, after I've done a half dozen lowers. Keep it and jig top clean. I'd finish out existing lower getting the hang of it. If you are planning to drill hammer and trigger pin holes with hand drill, I'd leave the assembly oriented in vise just as it is in your photo. As opposed to drilling those small holes vertically oriented. Of course a drill press would be best, and it would be drilled vertically then. |
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Posted: 1/14/2019 10:53:54 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just FYI, yes, that plastic base doesn't get used. Looks pretty good now. I'm looking at your router base and it has more wear lines in it than mine does, after I've done a half dozen lowers. Keep it and jig top clean. I'd finish out existing lower getting the hang of it. If you are planning to drill hammer and trigger pin holes with hand drill, I'd leave the assembly oriented in vise just as it is in your photo. As opposed to drilling those small holes vertically oriented. Of course a drill press would be best, and it would be drilled vertically then. I don't have a drill press so I'll just be using a regular drill. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 12:03:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm kind of concerned to finish that lower I'm afraid did it may damage the bit and destroy another one if I try to put it in. I don't have a drill press so I'll just be using a regular drill. Personally, I'd rather make sure I could finish that lower without breaking something else, before marring up another lower. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 12:17:02 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you do your part, operate router from the base plate, no tipping, no insertion or removal while bit is spinning, counter clockwise, just enough pressure to move it(almost like letting it glide around), that lower will no more mess up your new end mill than a brand new lower would. Personally, I'd rather make sure I could finish that lower without breaking something else, before marring up another lower. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 12:47:59 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you do your part, operate router from the base plate, no tipping, no insertion or removal while bit is spinning, counter clockwise, just enough pressure to move it(almost like letting it glide around), that lower will no more mess up your new end mill than a brand new lower would. Personally, I'd rather make sure I could finish that lower without breaking something else, before marring up another lower. I ordered a new End Mill we'll see maybe I'll just try to finish that one where should I start it at what level being its kind of uneven I'm guessing the least possible graduation that will cut anything and go from there |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 1:21:28 PM EDT
[#16]
Find the high spot in the pocket using endmill assembled in router, gliding around but not powered on. Lock your base there, then move over to depth cut gauge and go about 1/3rd recommended depth. Keep doing the 1/3rd steps until you have a nice smooth bottom to pocket, then maybe go to 1/2 of recommended cutting depth. Let the end mill do the work, you just assist it.
Name your end mill Bob, so when you're done you can say 'bob and I' just did our first 80% lower. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 8:45:46 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you do your part, operate router from the base plate, no tipping, no insertion or removal while bit is spinning, counter clockwise, just enough pressure to move it(almost like letting it glide around), that lower will no more mess up your new end mill than a brand new lower would. Personally, I'd rather make sure I could finish that lower without breaking something else, before marring up another lower. If you’re using a variable speed router, set to the highest speed setting. Don’t insert or remove the end mill while the router is spinning. Prior to turning the router on, ensure that the end mill is centered within the milling pilot hole and not contacting any part of the receiver. While milling, you’ll want to move the router smoothly and in a clockwise manner as shown in the 80% lower jig instructions. Keep the router adapter flat against the router guide plate at all times. You’ll also want to avoid exerting excessive pressure or abruptly pulling the router. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 10:24:44 PM EDT
[#18]
OP, Polyner80 has cheap - like down to $12 - 80% plastic lowers you can practice your technique on w/o tearing up aluminum lowers.
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Posted: 1/15/2019 10:57:34 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP, Polyner80 has cheap - like down to $12 - 80% plastic lowers you can practice your technique on w/o tearing up aluminum lowers. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 11:21:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can you tell me where you're seeing those? All I can find on their site is the $60 80% lowers. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: OP, Polyner80 has cheap - like down to $12 - 80% plastic lowers you can practice your technique on w/o tearing up aluminum lowers. https://www.eparmory.com/E-P-ARMORY-UNFINISHEDUNDRILLED-80-LOWERS--GRAY-EP80_p_756.html $15 for a blem, think if you buy the right multi-pack it gets down to $12 or so. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 11:29:36 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Direct cut and paste from 5D Tactical‘s web site instructions (highlighting is mine) If you’re using a variable speed router, set to the highest speed setting. Don’t insert or remove the end mill while the router is spinning. Prior to turning the router on, ensure that the end mill is centered within the milling pilot hole and not contacting any part of the receiver. While milling, you’ll want to move the router smoothly and in a clockwise manner as shown in the 80% lower jig instructions. Keep the router adapter flat against the router guide plate at all times. You’ll also want to avoid exerting excessive pressure or abruptly pulling the router. |
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Posted: 1/16/2019 12:13:18 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good catch, I have no idea why I put 'counter' in there! 
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Posted: 1/16/2019 12:23:06 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dyslexia! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Good catch, I have no idea why I put 'counter' in there! 
At least when I had my son start on his lower, I got the 'clockwise' right when instructing him. I gave intruction/reminds for his first two passes, when ready for the third pass I said 'you good?' he says 'yeah'. So I left to do some paperwork and told him if he breaks my bit, he buys me a new one. He didn't break my bit 
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Posted: 1/16/2019 7:46:46 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sorry, my mistake. Posted wrong manufacturer. EP Armory: https://www.eparmory.com/E-P-ARMORY-UNFINISHEDUNDRILLED-80-LOWERS--GRAY-EP80_p_756.html $15 for a blem, think if you buy the right multi-pack it gets down to $12 or so. |
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Posted: 1/22/2019 9:00:57 PM EDT
[#25]
2nd attempt.
Overall turned out good. The milling went well, went real slow and careful. The only flaw I can see is the safety does not line up completely straight when on fire. It is slightly offset. I am not sure if I drilled it slightly off, or the receiver is slightly out of spec. Or I guess, though unlikely the safety could be defective. But it seems functional. Haven't test fired it yet. Also should the inside milled out area, be coated with something ? I just assembled it as is, and didn't do anything to cover the bare aluminum. I don't care much about looks, but wondered if it would protect and preserve better with something like aluminum black or even paint.  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/22/2019 10:08:52 PM EDT
[#26]
The drawings located the selector detent hole location off of the selector hole location. The selector hole has tolerances it can be at so it could be front to back at different locations and be in spec. If the detent location hole is installed before the selector hole then you can get a crooked line up but the only thing out of spec is the order of installation caused a misalignment.
The pics make that look more than just a little off though. |
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Posted: 1/22/2019 10:49:16 PM EDT
[#27]
Did you drill your selector from the right side to left, all the way through? Looks a little off. If drilling by hand, I'd suggest drilling each side independent. Otherwise use a drill press. It also appears you didn't go full depth in the trigger hole, I see a flat spot towards the rear. It tapers at the rear, requiring a deeper cut to finish out trigger hole. But you're getting there.
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Posted: 1/23/2019 3:32:36 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you drill your selector from the right side to left, all the way through? Looks a little off. If drilling by hand, I'd suggest drilling each side independent. Otherwise use a drill press. It also appears you didn't go full depth in the trigger hole, I see a flat spot towards the rear. It tapers at the rear, requiring a deeper cut to finish out trigger hole. But you're getting there. I don't have a drill press. What exactly do you mean by flat spot for trigger hole? Are you seeing that in the last pic? |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 3:45:32 AM EDT
[#29]
Flat on the buffer end of trigger hole, Should pretty much match the front end.
One thing I picked up that can make a big difference in finishing 80% lowers is a needle file set, then the, little things can be smoothed out by hand in a few minute. Also, drill each side, never drill all the way through the receiver, to much room for error if you are hand holding or using a drill press you will run into bit deflection. That said, it looks good and you should be able to assemble and shoot it.. Great going. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 4:00:18 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The drawings located the selector detent hole location off of the selector hole location. The selector hole has tolerances it can be at so it could be front to back at different locations and be in spec. If the detent location hole is installed before the selector hole then you can get a crooked line up but the only thing out of spec is the order of installation caused a misalignment. The pics make that look more than just a little off though. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 4:01:26 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Flat on the buffer end of trigger hole, Should pretty much match the front end. One thing I picked up that can make a big difference in finishing 80% lowers is a needle file set, then the, little things can be smoothed out by hand in a few minute. Also, drill each side, never drill all the way through the receiver, to much room for error if you are hand holding or using a drill press you will run into bit deflection. That said, it looks good and you should be able to assemble and shoot it.. Great going. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 7:23:30 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think I understand what you're saying but I'm still a little bit confused are you saying that if it is off it would be because the detent hole is slightly off? So if it is off it wouldn't have been anything I have done just trying to clarify as obviously on an 80% we don't drill the detent hole. It was a ceratac lower. Eta: never mind. Already been covered. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 10:30:28 AM EDT
[#33]
The hand drill used can make a HUGE difference. I initially started out using and old black & decker electric drill. It didn't give the smoothest operational feeling, and it's highest speed just wasn't cutting it.
I switch to my snap on cordless, it's as smooth rotating as a jet engine, runs at ~1800 rpm(fast may be better yet, but this beat the pants off that ~1100 rpm b&d). Here is one I drilled all the way through from right to left(if you drill all the way through, like the instructions initially tell you, going right to left will give you your cleanest results). Reason being, when your bit pokes out the other side, it'll have a bit of a 'lip' and the selector shoulder will cover it on the left side. As you can see, the selector snapped right to the safety stop. 
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Posted: 1/23/2019 2:43:15 PM EDT
[#34]
I only have two drills, a $50 walmart drill that doesn't seem to have the juice to do it and an electric hammer drill. That is what I used. Do you think its too much ?
I'll definitely go from both sides next time. I might finish out the lower I started with that is kinda messy just to practice the drilling part on that one, see if I can get that in better order before I make another attempt at a nice one. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 3:04:34 PM EDT
[#35]
How fast does your hammer drill spin? Even though you have a nice long guide for drilling holes, just concentrate on drilling straight. And I'd use your first for practice, I think you can save it just fine.
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Posted: 1/23/2019 3:28:17 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How fast does your hammer drill spin? Even though you have a nice long guide for drilling holes, just concentrate on drilling straight. And I'd use your first for practice, I think you can save it just fine. I'll definitely go both sides next time. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 4:00:35 PM EDT
[#37]
Curious if folks are undersize drilling the hammer/pin/selector holes and reaming for a better fit or just using a finished size bit?
I've only used a Tactical Machining milling jig and it had a hardened guide bushings for drilling the holes only on one side. Looks like the 5D has them on both sides of the jig to allow drilling from each side without wearing the guide holes in the jig. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 4:19:46 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Curious if folks are undersize drilling the hammer/pin/selector holes and reaming for a better fit or just using a finished size bit? I've only used a Tactical Machining milling jig and it had a hardened guide bushings for drilling the holes only on one side. Looks like the 5D has them on both sides of the jig to allow drilling from each side without wearing the guide holes in the jig. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 4:36:25 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Curious if folks are undersize drilling the hammer/pin/selector holes and reaming for a better fit or just using a finished size bit? I've only used a Tactical Machining milling jig and it had a hardened guide bushings for drilling the holes only on one side. Looks like the 5D has them on both sides of the jig to allow drilling from each side without wearing the guide holes in the jig. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 4:46:56 PM EDT
[#40]
Quoted:
Considering trying a 80%. Looking at the Easy Jig 1 from 80% arms Anyone use that one ? I watched their 20 minute video. Looks easy enough. What router would you recommend ? |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 8:06:43 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Curious if folks are undersize drilling the hammer/pin/selector holes and reaming for a better fit or just using a finished size bit? I've only used a Tactical Machining milling jig and it had a hardened guide bushings for drilling the holes only on one side. Looks like the 5D has them on both sides of the jig to allow drilling from each side without wearing the guide holes in the jig. I bought the tubing here https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-metal-tubing under the precision stainless tubing. I used the one with the .156" outside and .146" inside and I think a 3.7 mm bit to fit in it. What really bothered me was even with a jig with drill bushings on both sides I never could get holes that measured exactly the same from the top of the lower on both sides. All worked fine but were never exactly the same. I wound up cutting a cheap jig up and making a small trigger hammer drill block to drop into the inside pocket of the lower. I put a plate on top that lipped over the thickness of the top of the lower wall to seat it. After using a rod dropped through the first side to 90 degree a the block I clamp it in place sleeve, drill, remove the sleeve and ream that side. Got holes to match now but it is a pain in the butt time wise. |
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Posted: 1/30/2019 3:33:10 AM EDT
[#42]
It shoots fine.
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Posted: 1/30/2019 4:25:30 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It shoots fine.
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Posted: 1/30/2019 11:28:28 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Glad to hear it, congrats, you now are a gun builder! Hopefully safety will be straight next time. |
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