User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 5:45:04 PM EDT
[#1]
Synthetic 10w 40 in WI works fine. Although I haven't set my gun outside for a while and then shot in the winter.
This negative degree weather would be a good test though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 6:14:27 PM EDT
[#2]
Super lube grease
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 6:19:41 PM EDT
[#3]
Ballistol should work fine.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 6:37:43 PM EDT
[#4]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 8:45:47 PM EDT
[#5]
Breakfree , Slip EWL, are two good ones.
Best thing to do is put about 5 drops in a dixie cup and leave it in your garage overnight. Most of the country is getting pretty cold weather. The next morning see what you got in the cup. Is the lube still moving freely or has it gelled. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ne-AgWDbVns https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcgdhQsBzB0 |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 8:51:26 PM EDT
[#6]
Only oil sparingly in the winter. No grease of any kind.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 9:41:50 PM EDT
[#7]
the current milspec CLP has an operating range of -60 to +160 Degrees F
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 9:51:39 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Breakfree , Slip EWL, are two good ones. Best thing to do is put about 5 drops in a dixie cup and leave it in your garage overnight. Most of the country is getting pretty cold weather. The next morning see what you got in the cup. Is the lube still moving freely or has it gelled. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ne-AgWDbVns https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcgdhQsBzB0 Thanks for posting these... very interesting. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 10:15:01 PM EDT
[#9]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2021 11:24:29 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Super lube grease This |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2021 12:57:34 PM EDT
[#11]
G96 or Rothco CLP both are amazing at low temps
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2021 1:02:56 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote History |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2021 3:20:03 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Super lube grease This has my interest...... |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/18/2021 9:27:28 PM EDT
[#14]
I haven’t tried it because I’m in South Florida but CherryBalmz makes a Winter Balmz that has incredible claims. I really like their Black Rifle Balmz.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/18/2021 9:38:18 PM EDT
[#15]
I run molybdenum based dry lube year round. Works great.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/27/2021 11:07:07 PM EDT
[#16]
I posted this in another thread.
What we teach in Armorer, Instructor and shooting courses is that you need to lubricate to reduce friction, and you need a rust inhibitor on steel to protect it from corrosion (rust). Any liquid will work to reduce friction, until it evaporates or burns up. Liquids like water, soda pop, urine and beer, will work until they evaporate, so these are not a good choice for guns. I like to think of AR type rifles as a high performance engine, as it heats up quickly, and any lubricants that evaporate or burn up quickly are probably not the best choice. Things that you may use on shotgun and bolt guns like Hoppe's oil, RemOil, etc, don't last long on an AR15, as they burn off to quick. My experience with CLP is that it is okay IMHO. It is an okay cleaner, but there are better solvents (Military background people follow me on this for a minute). Soldiers have been taught to clean with CLP, and they scrub for several hours as a group, until their Armorer says it's clean enough, then a few hours later their rifle gets white gets white glove tested and low and behold they are getting carbon off it again. So if it were such a great cleaner, then why didn't it get all the carbon off the first time? CLP as a lube will reduce friction where metal rubs metal. From my experience when using it on an AR15 it seems to last about 450 rounds (give or take a few) before it burns off and the rifle then needs to be relubed. Where CLP doesn't do well is cold weather, as at 20F degrees it gels up and the gun won't run, which is where the Military wants people to lube using "LAW" Lube for Arctic Weaponry. Which if you consider the current weather patterns across the USA lately, you will see that there has been a lot of cold. My preference is to use a separate cleaning solvents, and solvents lubricants. For all around cleaning I like Slip2000 #725 Cleaner and Degreaser. For heavy carbon build up, use the Slip2000 Carbon Killer. My preference for gun lube is Slip2000 "EWL" Extreme Weapons Lubricant, and "EWL 30". The EWL is a liquid, and is nice to get the liquid into hidden spring and ejector areas. The negative of liquid is that it the liquid is effected by gravity and will not stay where you put it. This is where the Slip2000 "EWL 30" comes in, as it is a gel, and will stay where you put it. The EWL is good to -150F", which I have only shot it down to -38F and it ran just fine. The EWL30 is good to -100F, and I have personally ran it at -34F and it works just fine. Both the EWL and EWL30 won't burn off due to them being synthetic. Here is a study that Pat Rogers did where he tested CLP against EWL in his classes using some of our rifles. http://www.slip2000.com/blog/side-by-side-review-of-slip-2000-ewl-and-clp/ Here are my comments on the test. http://www.slip2000.com/blog/ewl-vs-clp-testing-greg-sullivan-comments/ CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles TheDefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/28/2021 12:28:20 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I posted this in another thread. CLP as a lube will reduce friction where metal rubs metal. From my experience when using it on an AR15 it seems to last about 450 rounds (give or take a few) before it burns off and the rifle then needs to be relubed. Where CLP doesn't do well is cold weather, as at 20F degrees it gels up and the gun won't run, which is where the Military wants people to lube using "LAW" Lube for Arctic Weaponry. Which if you consider the current weather patterns across the USA lately, you will see that there has been a lot of cold. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles TheDefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 Quote HistoryQuoted: I posted this in another thread. CLP as a lube will reduce friction where metal rubs metal. From my experience when using it on an AR15 it seems to last about 450 rounds (give or take a few) before it burns off and the rifle then needs to be relubed. Where CLP doesn't do well is cold weather, as at 20F degrees it gels up and the gun won't run, which is where the Military wants people to lube using "LAW" Lube for Arctic Weaponry. Which if you consider the current weather patterns across the USA lately, you will see that there has been a lot of cold. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles TheDefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 This part got me curious as to what the actual cold weather performance specs are for the milspec CLPs. The spec also says that CLP can be used in lieu of LAW http://everyspec.com/MIL-PRF/MIL-PRF-030000-79999/MIL-PRF-63460F_55745/ 4.5.2.6 Cold temperature test. Three M249s shall be used for each candidate lubricant for cold temperature testing and the average performance of the three shall be used to determine if the requirement is met. 4.5.2.6.1 Inspection and preparation. The test weapons shall be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated with a light application (see TABLE VI, Note 3--Note 3 Light application - apply a thin film of lube barely visible to the eye.) of the candidate lubricant. With the bolt closed and the safety set in the "safe" position, the machine gun shall be conditioned at -51 ± 2 °C (-60 ± 4 °F) for 16 ± 1 hours. 4.5.2.6.2 Weapons firing. Weapons firing shall be conducted within the cold temperature chamber immediately after the first conditioning cycle is complete. The weapon shall be loaded with an un-conditioned (ambient temperature) 100-round belt of ammunition, and an initial burst of approximately 10-rounds shall be fired to validate the firing rate. The remainder of the belt shall be fired in 5 to 7-round bursts to check for stoppages. Repeat the cycle, except condition the weapon for only 2 hours ± 15 minutes at the same temperature. Fire the second, un-conditioned 100-round belt in the same manner employed in the first cold temperature firing cycle, for a total of 18 hours of cold temperature exposure, and 200 rounds fired from each weapon. 4.5.2.6.3 Cold temperature failure criteria. Any Class II or III weapon stoppage, more than two Class I stoppages in 200 rounds, or a reduction in the rate of fire below 650 rpm, shall be cause for rejection of the lubricant. I think that the CLP issues that came up in that article was from using CLP outside of it's intended use. The spec even says it is not for long term preservation: 6.1 Intended use. CLP covered by this specification is a highly penetrating, mobile liquid and is intended for field application to satisfy the complete need of cleaning, lubricating, and short term preservation of military weapons. CLP facilitates the effective removal of firing residues, gums and other contaminants from weapon components while providing lubrication and short term preservation for reliable weapons operation. 6.1.3 Preservative application limitation. Caution should be exercised when using CLP where ventilation of the treated surface, prior to sealing, is not practicable. CLP should not be used for preservation for long-term storage without consulting the Qualifying Activity (see 6.3.1). 6.10.5 Short term preservation. Preservation period of time not to exceed 30 days. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/5/2021 8:22:09 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This has my interest...... Superlube grease and oil has had my interets for a while, the machinist I worked with at the refinery used it on some speciality applications and seemed to work good. Krytox was also another grease they used. Walmart carries Superlube IIRC, I have just never tried it. I am very happy with Slip and Wilson Combat products but when I run our of these will be trying something else, being a retired Mobil/ExxonMobil engineer, I should use Mobil1 like everyone here talks about, just have not done so yet |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/7/2021 10:19:24 AM EDT
[#19]
TW25b seems to work really well in cold weather. No idea if it works at zero degrees but works pretty well in the 20s and up from my experience.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/7/2021 5:39:15 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: the current milspec CLP has an operating range of -60 to +160 Degrees F |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2021 2:00:59 AM EDT
[#21]
SLIP 2000 EWL has a temperature rating of -100F up to +1250F. I keep a small bottle EWL in my range bag but I use typically use Amsoil 5w-30w most of time. But I took an AR class and we took a break so I put some on the bolt and pulled the charging handle a few times.
https://www.slip2000.com/downloads/EWL.pdf |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2021 1:25:56 PM EDT
[#22]
If TW25B is not working you are applying to much.
M1 you are using is fine. Pa winters anything as thick as NGLI #2 or thinner will work. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/17/2021 10:12:29 PM EDT
[#23]
Regardless of what you choose use it sparingly, most folks overlube their weapons in my experience.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/18/2021 9:28:25 PM EDT
[#24]
Don't use grease. Absolutely no valid reason to use it. Just because it "feels" smoother doesn't mean it's working better.
CLP works well as a general purpose product. I've used it in some pretty cold temps (sub zero F) and it worked fine. That said, I also like SLIP EWL but I don't use their cleaners. When I was on an embedded training team in Afghanistan years ago, we got a shipment of brand new M2 .50 cal machine guns to issue to the Aftards. When I opened the boxes, I thought it was interesting to find 4 oz bottles of SLIP2000 with each machine gun. I was in Ukraine for an exercise quite a few years ago and we ran short on CLP. Someone screwed up and didn't pack enough. It was an issue because our crew served weapons were going to be in storage for more than a month during transportation back home. I suggested we get some gear oil out in town. We did and coated them with a nice coat of gear oil and boxed everything up. Our CO was worried about what they would look like when we finally got them back home. When we finally got them back, there was only tiny amounts of surface rust on minor places but overall, everything looked good. Which is fairly impressive because they were in a pretty humid environment for at least a month and if you know anything about crew served weapons, you know they rust just looking at them. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/18/2021 11:06:55 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My experience with CLP is that it is okay IMHO. It is an okay cleaner, but there are better solvents (Military background people follow me on this for a minute). Soldiers have been taught to clean with CLP, and they scrub for several hours as a group, until their Armorer says it's clean enough, then a few hours later their rifle gets white gets white glove tested and low and behold they are getting carbon off it again. So if it were such a great cleaner, then why didn't it get all the carbon off the first time? I'm going to paint a huge target on myself here but oh well. CLP doesn't remove all the carbon because just like every solvent, it can't. Steel is still somewhat porous, carbon gets in those pores. The Cleaner in CLP keeps drawing the carbon from those pores. If you were to clean a rifle with whatever solvent, then apply whatever solvent to the metal, you'd wipe carbon off in 20 minutes just like with CLP. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2021 11:05:48 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm going to paint a huge target on myself here but oh well. CLP doesn't remove all the carbon because just like every solvent, it can't. Steel is still somewhat porous, carbon gets in those pores. The Cleaner in CLP keeps drawing the carbon from those pores. If you were to clean a rifle with whatever solvent, then apply whatever solvent to the metal, you'd wipe carbon off in 20 minutes just like with CLP. The only time this is problematic is when getting inspected by a dickhead armorer, or maybe after long term storage. For everyone else, wipe the damn thing clean, put some fresh oil on it, and carry on with life. ETA: might need some more oil after a month or so to fire, but it should be good for at least 6 months rust protection. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2021 12:35:43 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This This again..... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2021 6:44:17 PM EDT
[#28]
Just apply a liberal amount of Texas weather to it and you should be good to go!
 Minus the bizarre winter weather they had blow through not that long ago of course...  Joking aside, I thought it was best to run it dry in the case of cold weather... I'm probably completely wrong on that and maybe dry moly lube would actually be a good idea? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2021 10:56:01 PM EDT
[#29]
So much wrong in this thread. Read the differences between hydrodynamic and boundary lubrication. Read about the additives. The only company I've seen to even make an attempt at accurately explaining things from a engineering/chemical point of view is cherrybalmz (even though what they say isn't 100% accurate). Most of these companies are selling you a shit ton of oil with little additive. Good luck with your search and realize lubricants are developed for specific applications (specific additive packages). People that tell you to use motor oil for everything don't know what the fuck they are talking about.
Take care. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2021 11:03:31 PM EDT
[#30]
This report is from the mid 90s, but the products are still available, so they are known working options.
RCMP did testing of firearms lubricants at -40 degrees. Of the products they tested they approved four. There are a variety of different form factors so you have some options. The four are: FP10 G96 Eezox TW-25b http://www.g96.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/TR-01-97.pdf For the person who posted dissatisfaction with TW-25b, my guess would be that you're using too much. For this application you would want an extremely thin coat. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2021 11:11:12 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Best thing to do is put about 5 drops in a dixie cup and leave it in your garage overnight. Actually that's a terrible thing to do. Dixie cups are paper coated with some kind of wax or plastic coating, which some lubricant products may well dissolve. That shouldn't be a factor in such a test. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2021 6:21:40 AM EDT
[#32]
I use tw25b and slip2k EWG as my primary sources of lubrication on every firearm I have thats not blackpowder. My shooting Temps have ranged from 100+F to -40F. Never a problem with the weapons.
When shooting below 0F, I will wipe off any excess grease from the rails, and just leave the metal with a shiny/wet look. Or not. I get lazy. My dislike of CLP comes from the lack of a higher boiling point, and a drop point that doesn't cover Wisconsin winter. The closest I use to oil, is Olive oil and bees wax mixture for blackpowder. Don't confuse initial sluggish behavior as only a lube problem. Below 32F, ammo is greatly affected as well. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2021 6:25:57 AM EDT
[#33]
Just re-read your OP. Describe the hardness you experienced with the tw25b please. I've experienced this with all petroleum based lubes, but never with synthetic greases, even when baked by full auto fire.
Was it hardening up during a shooting session, or found that way after storage? What other oils and cleaners were in use? I find this issue very interesting. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/29/2021 12:32:52 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ballistol should work fine. I like Ballistol - a lot. But it's not a great cold weather lube. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2021 12:56:59 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I use tw25b and slip2k EWG as my primary sources of lubrication on every firearm I have thats not blackpowder. My shooting Temps have ranged from 100+F to -40F. Never a problem with the weapons. When shooting below 0F, I will wipe off any excess grease from the rails, and just leave the metal with a shiny/wet look. Or not. I get lazy. My dislike of CLP comes from the lack of a higher boiling point, and a drop point that doesn't cover Wisconsin winter. The closest I use to oil, is Olive oil and bees wax mixture for blackpowder. Don't confuse initial sluggish behavior as only a lube problem. Below 32F, ammo is greatly affected as well. The CLP temp range is -60F to +160F. I don't think WI gets that cold too often |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/5/2021 10:08:41 PM EDT
[#36]
Cherrybalmz
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/6/2021 1:37:32 AM EDT
[#37]
Gibbs Brand Lubricant
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/6/2021 1:54:29 AM EDT
[#38]
Weapon shield
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/11/2021 7:59:19 AM EDT
[#39]
Oil
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/12/2021 10:43:16 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So much wrong in this thread. Read the differences between hydrodynamic and boundary lubrication. Read about the additives. The only company I've seen to even make an attempt at accurately explaining things from a engineering/chemical point of view is cherrybalmz (even though what they say isn't 100% accurate). Most of these companies are selling you a shit ton of oil with little additive. Good luck with your search and realize lubricants are developed for specific applications (specific additive packages). People that tell you to use motor oil for everything don't know what the fuck they are talking about. Take care. So, please enlighten me about what is wrong with using a 0w-30, 5w-40 or 0w40 full synthetic diesel engine oil like, say Shell Rotella T6 as a lube for an AR15 type semi-automatic rifle. Be specific. What is wrong with the base oil? What is wrong with its high carbon specific detergent additive package for direct injection forced induction diesel and gasoline engines that produce significant carbon particulate byproduct during combustion? What about a Euro spec oil such as Mobil 1 FS 0w40 (European Formula) in comparison? What analysis have you undertaken regarding either of these specific lubricants in general, or specifically for AR15 semi-auto rifles? Explain with supporting facts for both general AR15 use and for OP's question about cold weather use, presumably sub freezing, maybe sub zero. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/12/2021 11:23:10 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So, please enlighten me about what is wrong with using a 0w-30, 5w-40 or 0w40 full synthetic diesel engine oil like, say Shell Rotella T6 as a lube for an AR15 type semi-automatic rifle. Be specific. What is wrong with the base oil? What is wrong with its high carbon specific detergent additive package for direct injection forced induction diesel and gasoline engines that produce significant carbon particulate byproduct during combustion? What about a Euro spec oil such as Mobil 1 FS 0w40 (European Formula) in comparison? What analysis have you undertaken regarding either of these specific lubricants in general, or specifically for AR15 semi-auto rifles? Explain with supporting facts for both general AR15 use and for OP's question about cold weather use, presumably sub freezing, maybe sub zero. @Foxtrot08 |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/21/2021 3:53:55 PM EDT
[#42]
Breakfree CLP for the known win OP.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2021 4:59:26 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm going to paint a huge target on myself here but oh well. CLP doesn't remove all the carbon because just like every solvent, it can't. Steel is still somewhat porous, carbon gets in those pores. The Cleaner in CLP keeps drawing the carbon from those pores. If you were to clean a rifle with whatever solvent, then apply whatever solvent to the metal, you'd wipe carbon off in 20 minutes just like with CLP. Actually, CLP helps carbon hide in those pores. As a cleaner, it’s not great, simply because it’s supposed to be a lubricant first. As such, it penetrates into those pores and stays there. On the other hand, having used Hoppe’s, military bore cleaner, and other solvents, I can attest to them doing a much better job of removing sooty gunk than CLP. They’re still petroleum-based, so they don’t get everything out, but they do better than CLP. With the number of dumb airmen who get to clean their rifles after the (minimal) orientation they get in Basic Training, and the glee with which the CATM folks make them scrub, scrub, scrub, you’d expect that Lackland’s armory would have the cleanest rifles in the world. It’s just not that way, because CLP just doesn’t “float out” gunk the way a real cleaner or solvent can. I started using Slip2000’s EWL and 725 Degreaser (which is water based) after taking Sully’s armored course. That stuff just works. The degreaser gets into everything, because it’s quite thin, and it emulsifies the chemicals that are there. Those oily chemicals are what let the soot stick. Let it sit for a bit, and you can see stuff sort of float out. I wipe the parts down afterward, then spray with isopropyl alcohol to ensure the parts are dry. Then I apply EWL where appropriate, and everything runs well. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
.jpg)
Attached File