I grease the threads, tighten, loosen and do that 3x. Then disassemble, degrease everything, assemble, tighten it down good with a wee bit of blue loc-tite at the 6 o'clock position in such a manner that an old fashioned soldering iron (the non-torch kind) can heat up the loc-tite enough to break it loose if I want to disassemble the unit later.
Tightening to GI spec is pretty tight, and staking the part requires grinding off the displaced metal if I want to change things later on. So I don't like either torquing things that heavily, or staking. So far, I have never had a castle nut loosen.
An alternative is to drill through the castle nut and tap a little Allen head screw that ends up in the space between the threads at the 6 o'clock position...again with the blue loc-tite. That wasn't an original idea from me. I had a very old nut that didn't even have the castle cut outs, and all it had was the Allen head screw to lock it in place.