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Page AR-15 » Troubleshooting
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Posted: 10/26/2018 3:13:02 PM EDT
I am very new to the building ar 15 world. All I’ve done so far is pull and change barrels on the two rifles I own. I decided recently to start a first build on an Anderson stripped lower that I had purchased about a year ago. I am going for (or was going for) a c7a2 configured rifle. Since the c7a2 uses a car 15 style of buttstock I found and purchased a similar stock from Tony’s custom LLC for $50. At the time I thought it was a good buy. For those who are wondering I used a bone standard Palmetto State Arsenal lower parts kit which for the price I payed I have no complaints and my experience with PSA has been very good with the a2 rifle I own from them. When I got the stock I went to install the buffer tube as I had seen many times on YouTube. But when I torqued down the castle nut, the buffer tube began to twist very noticeably. It caused the stock to cant atleast 10-15 degrees. My ocd went nuts so I took it off and noticed that the end plate was loose in the locking notch and that one section of the threading had been sheered by the locking tab on the plate. My question is, am I doing something wrong or should I get a better part like what I’ve seen from troys replica GAU 5 or from Fulton Armory?
Link Posted: 10/26/2018 3:40:06 PM EDT
[#1]
Sounds like soft metal. I use mostly bcm tubes and have never had that issue. The end plate should keep it centered. Doesnt sound like an install issue from your post
Link Posted: 10/26/2018 4:34:13 PM EDT
[#2]
I will tighten the castle nut snug and twist the buffer tube a bit cocked so it straightens when the final tightening of the nut happens. It may take a few tries to get the nut tight with the tube centered.
The end plate does not always align the tube for you.
Link Posted: 11/1/2018 9:54:11 PM EDT
[#3]
I slip a stock onto the end of the buffer tube, and use that to apply counter pressure to the buffer tube to keep if from rotating while tightening the castle nut.  I do this mainly so that it stays straight, up-and-down, while being tightened. otherwise it'll end up canted a few degrees clockwise.  in addition to the afore-mentioned couple-of-degrees initial offset to be taken up while tightening.
Link Posted: 11/3/2018 7:19:08 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
I am very new to the building ar 15 world. All I’ve done so far is pull and change barrels on the two rifles I own. I decided recently to start a first build on an Anderson stripped lower that I had purchased about a year ago. I am going for (or was going for) a c7a2 configured rifle. Since the c7a2 uses a car 15 style of buttstock I found and purchased a similar stock from Tony’s custom LLC for $50. At the time I thought it was a good buy. For those who are wondering I used a bone standard Palmetto State Arsenal lower parts kit which for the price I payed I have no complaints and my experience with PSA has been very good with the a2 rifle I own from them. When I got the stock I went to install the buffer tube as I had seen many times on YouTube. But when I torqued down the castle nut, the buffer tube began to twist very noticeably. It caused the stock to cant atleast 10-15 degrees. My ocd went nuts so I took it off and noticed that the end plate was loose in the locking notch and that one section of the threading had been sheered by the locking tab on the plate. My question is, am I doing something wrong or should I get a better part like what I’ve seen from troys replica GAU 5 or from Fulton Armory?
View Quote
I assume you meant the extension rotated however, ....... Or did it actually twist as if wringing a rag?
Link Posted: 11/3/2018 7:35:16 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I slip a stock onto the end of the buffer tube, and use that to apply counter pressure to the buffer tube to keep if from rotating which tightening the castle nut.  I do this mainly so that it stays straight, up-and-down, while being tightened. otherwise it'll end up canted a few degrees clockwise.  in addition to the afore-mentioned couple-of-degrees initial offset to be taken up while tightening.
View Quote
I picked up a knock off MFT for this purpose. It's basically a cane handle and makes it easy to grab onto/Center the buffer tube.
Link Posted: 11/4/2018 8:08:58 AM EDT
[#6]
I've always wished that the channel on the ext and the end plates were a tighter fit. It's usually the tab on the end plate that's the culprit. I think if it was an 1/8" thicker with a slightly wider tab, it would help. I know it's just stamped metal though.
Link Posted: 11/4/2018 8:56:56 AM EDT
[#7]
Tighten the castle nut.  You need a spanner/AR tool.  If it's crooked, back the nut off, center the tube, retighten castle nut.  Get that sucker tight, but don't strip the threads (aluminum).
Link Posted: 11/6/2018 5:58:45 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I will tighten the castle nut snug and twist the buffer tube a bit cocked so it straightens when the final tightening of the nut happens. It may take a few tries to get the nut tight with the tube centered.
The end plate does not always align the tube for you.
View Quote
Exactly how I do it
Link Posted: 11/6/2018 6:00:25 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I will tighten the castle nut snug and twist the buffer tube a bit cocked so it straightens when the final tightening of the nut happens. It may take a few tries to get the nut tight with the tube centered.
The end plate does not always align the tube for you.
View Quote
Exactly how I do it

oops double post please delete
Link Posted: 12/19/2018 9:09:25 PM EDT
[#10]
The buffer tube must be turned in an opposite direction of the torque applied by the wrench.  The tab on the end plate can tear (smear) through the threads.
Link Posted: 12/20/2018 4:58:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Only happened when I used cheaper buffer tubes.  All my Ar15's have Colt buffer tubes now and never an issue with them.
Link Posted: 12/20/2018 5:58:44 PM EDT
[#12]
I'm using a plastic buffer tube in a plastic lower in a plastic thumbhole stock.  Thinking I'm going to skip the steel castle nut.  Maybe I should use some blue Locktite on the the threads?
Link Posted: 12/20/2018 11:59:47 PM EDT
[#13]
Anyone think I'll have trouble w/ this setup?

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 12/22/2018 5:44:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 12/22/2018 10:50:55 PM EDT
[#15]
Thanks, Dano.  The stock will keep the tube from rotating.
Link Posted: 12/23/2018 12:59:42 PM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 12/23/2018 2:09:54 PM EDT
[#17]
W/ a 27" bbl, don't think she'll be using this rifle for CQB, despite the 22" bladed bayonet.  But I quite agree, the Hera's grip angle doesn't work well for my thumb's access to the safety.  I prefer the NcStar for 25% the cost of the Hera, but the Hera in this application is lighter and longer, which is what I was looking for - and I had it on hand.
Link Posted: 12/25/2018 2:24:23 PM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 12/25/2018 3:55:36 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Now you lost me, since 27" barrel is screaming long range rig to start with, and one that your not going to free hand shoot much as well.

Hence barrel at least heavy match to keep flex to a minimal as it heats up, and then you need to back weight the hell out of the stock to get the rig to balance next with that much barrel weight up forward.  So here, I tend to favor the Magpul PRS stocks, since they do allow for the needed adjustments, and have enough placed that I can add in weight to  back weight balance the rig to balance it. Also, this allows for the needed pistol grip to be added,  to get the correct  palm plant and pitch angle the shooter needs as well.
Weight wise, would never use anything nylon on the rig, since the rig is built dam near to the edge of F class weight limits, to keep felt recoil to nothing for faster follower up repeat shots.

Simply, front end weight rig off the bench is a PITA to shoot, since it does not want to hold on target to begin with.  By weight balancing the rig with the needed stock weighting, it will hold on target without problems instead.

So on that note, if you are building her a light weight rifle, then do so with a thin 16" barrel since you are trying to keep the weight down.  Its going to have more felt recoil due to the light weight, but its the trade off of her being able to free hand shoot it.  
If your building her a bench/bipod rig, then don't spare the weight, since she will be more than fine humping the rifle as needed from location to location isntead. Hence here, we want the rigidity of parts, so no plastic lower receiver or receiver extension isntead.
View Quote
Dano, it's a 22" blade French Chassepot bayonet mount, hence the 27" pencil bbl.  With a plastic buffer tube, plastic hollow thumbhole, and cast plastic lower, it handles surprisingly well.

As the song goes, it's almost as long as she is tall.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 12/25/2018 7:57:20 PM EDT
[#20]
Link Posted: 12/25/2018 11:14:01 PM EDT
[#21]
What can I say, she likes blue and swords, and her Grandda had an antique sword bayonet lying around & volunteered to make the bayonet lug.

I realize the pencil will heat up quicker than something heavier, but this will be shot very little, and it handles like a dream.  I will have to have more pencil bbls.
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