Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Page AR-15 » Build It Yourself
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Site Notices
Page / 2
Next Page Arrow Left
Link Posted: 9/18/2018 12:26:35 AM EDT
[#1]
Most of us that do 80% lowers are not doing it to save money, I have never saved a dime over what I can buy a stripped lower for.
Link Posted: 9/18/2018 12:44:59 AM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can I ask why you would spend money on an 80% lower, a router and a jig for only 1 lower? PSA has them on sale for $39.99 so buying everything for only 1 lower isn't saving you any money...if that is why you're doing it.
View Quote
What is this saving money thing you speak of?
Link Posted: 9/18/2018 6:03:05 AM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can I ask why you would spend money on an 80% lower, a router and a jig for only 1 lower? PSA has them on sale for $39.99 so buying everything for only 1 lower isn't saving you any money...if that is why you're doing it.
View Quote
Borrowed the jig and router i can use for other things.

But really i just want to say i built my lower and have an evil ghost gun...
Link Posted: 9/18/2018 8:50:47 AM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Most of us that do 80% lowers are not doing it to save money, I have never saved a dime over what I can buy a stripped lower for.
View Quote
Me either but I'm trying to find his motivation for just doing 1 lower.
Link Posted: 9/18/2018 5:55:46 PM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 9/18/2018 5:57:22 PM EDT
[#6]
A trim router might be a bit underpowered.
Link Posted: 9/18/2018 7:16:01 PM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 9/19/2018 12:48:49 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can I ask why you would spend money on an 80% lower, a router and a jig for only 1 lower? PSA has them on sale for $39.99 so buying everything for only 1 lower isn't saving you any money...if that is why you're doing it.
View Quote
Some of the dealers in my area like to charge up to $40 for a transfer, and don't give discounts when you are putting more than one lower on a Form 4473.  A $39 lower plus s/h, along with a $40 ffl transfer begins to add up.  A router and jig can be used more than once, or could be sold off to the next guy feeling an itch to make their own lower.

Other than making a "ghost" lower, some people will finish an 80% because they can do it with simpler tools than a milling machine.  I seen a video where the presenter finishes an 80% Glock frame with a hand cranked drill gun and a set of files and rasps.  He didn't even bother with an end mill in a drill press.
Link Posted: 9/20/2018 5:38:57 PM EDT
[#9]
Why would the end mill keep lowering on it own?
Link Posted: 9/20/2018 6:02:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Why would the end mill keep lowering on it own?
View Quote
Sounds like something is not tightened up enough.
Link Posted: 9/20/2018 6:32:36 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Sounds like something is not tightened up enough.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Why would the end mill keep lowering on it own?
Sounds like something is not tightened up enough.
Well, 5D has a list of recommended routers for a reason.

Link Posted: 9/20/2018 7:06:16 PM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 9/20/2018 7:14:29 PM EDT
[#13]
There is a reason certain tools are recommended, the HF routers have a lot of runout and when you start adding side load to the collet and bearings for the shaft it causes that to get much worse.  I buy a lot of tools at HF, but through experience, I stay away from their routers because of the runout and even working with hardwoods from cabinets it can and often becomes a real problem.
Link Posted: 9/20/2018 7:21:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

DaveP1 is correct, also if the Router has too much runout the vibrations will cause the bit to loosen. Keep in mind that Routers were never designed to mill metal.

That’s why you need to be careful on selection.
View Quote
I think that's what it is. I turned it down and it has stayed put
Link Posted: 9/22/2018 5:54:26 PM EDT
[#15]
just finished it...7hrs total time

Has "chatter" marks and my trigger hole was slightly off so it has a small nick there. But overall I'm happy with it and it definitely looks better than the guys in GD last week.

Not sure how to post pics from my phone.
Link Posted: 9/22/2018 9:30:18 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Sorry pal, I don’t hand out participation trophies...and me tellin you your machining  is bad isn’t “trolling”

I teach machining for a living..... and if one of my students brought me a part that looked like that Ide fail them....

I don’t know what lower you are buying.... but not even my $50 Anderson’s are machined that badly.

And no amount of bead blasting is going to take out that massive gouge near your selector hole.

I don’t know why you think “shininess” has any bearing on it..... fun house mirror are shiny and they are wonky as hell
View Quote
You must be fun at parties.
Link Posted: 9/22/2018 11:16:00 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
ive never seen any 80% lowers finished with a router that didnt look like complete dog-ass.......

frankly youd be much better off searching craigslist for a used Mill/Drill machine....or find someone with a mill and by them a 6 pack.
View Quote
Dog ass..right.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 9/23/2018 6:02:09 PM EDT
[#18]
Can i skip the drill bit and just use the end mill for the trigger slot?
Link Posted: 9/24/2018 12:39:46 PM EDT
[#19]
Damn. I wrote a whole thing here, and cant post more than 2000 letters. Im gonna separate it into a couple posts, cuz you really remind me of how i used to operate. Anyway, I saw this and wanted to respond because I have some experience with harbor freight rotary tools...I would STRONGLY reccomend against using them. I don't know that router specifically, but my router from them burned out immediately. The worse experience was with a "Dremel" tool I was using for wood carving. I was using a drum sander bit, kinda big and heavy... I wasnt wearing eye protection, and was in front of a wall- the shaft snapped, flew into the wall, bounced back at my face...I'm very lucky I still have my right eye, it whizzed past my head at 100mph like a mm away from my eye. That's not even close to the only tools I've had from them that have broken. They're okay for buying hose clamps and wire nuts, but save your money when you want power tools, especially for building something like a firearm. Harbor freight stuff can also break and injure you, Ill never buy anything with moving parts from them again.
Link Posted: 9/24/2018 12:40:39 PM EDT
[#20]
(continued):
I recently completed my first 80%, I am also on a budget. I got a refurbished Makita from eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAKITA-RT0701C-1-1-4-HP-6-5-AMP-VARIABLE-SPEED-COMPACT-ROUTER/362424757438?hash=item546232ecbe:g:aHYAAOSwEDtbh0zc

I've been buying refurbished everything for years, and haven't once had a problem. The router did a fantastic job with the 5d jig. I've used it alot for wood sculpting too, I'm very happy so far.
Like I said, I'm on a budget. I bought the cheapest stuff I could find for years to save money. Here's what I learned; you don't save money, you end up spending more... Junk breaks, or doesn't work right, and you have to buy it again, and eventually, after alot of aggravation and problems, you end up buying the quality model anyway.

Sorry for the long winded rant lol...I saw this and had to reply. This was a major theme of my life for a few years. When I decided I wanted to build an AR 15, It was still my first impusle to get cheapshit. I have to slow myself down and remember what happens. Every time. I saved up for a month, got the Makita, a good lower, and the 5d pro jig, cuz I'm sure I'll wanna build a .308 someday. I'm happy with it, and am not once again out money with broken crap to be ashamed of. Keep an eye on the Makita auctions, the price does drop to 62 bucks sometimes, if you're really scrounging
Link Posted: 9/24/2018 12:55:50 PM EDT
[#21]
Also, you do use the mill for the trigger slot. But you need to drill a hole first. You're going to need the drill bits. The mill won't make holes like a drill. It cuts away the metal on it's side. A drill is a spiral blade, it cuts the metal and lifts it out and away. Learn from someone who has made alot of stupid shortcuts and cutcorners.... It's far better to wait til you have the money to afford the proper tools. If you don't have money, it's not like you'll get it done and be able to use it anyway, you won't be able to buy bullets....
Link Posted: 9/25/2018 5:53:59 AM EDT
[#22]
Thanks for the reply(ies?) And link to the refurb. Wish i would have thought about that, but had to make the HF work. Overall i'm happy with it after i figured it out. And given it was a plunger type i was able to mill the trigger without having to drill first.

Don't know if id buy again, but i didn't have to stop everytime to adjust the depth or have to predrill the slot.

My second lower took 4 hrs and looks almost perfect
Link Posted: 9/26/2018 12:27:27 PM EDT
[#23]
Link Posted: 10/8/2018 12:04:09 AM EDT
[#24]
Would you / could you use a router from Sears?
Page / 2
Next Page Arrow Left
Page AR-15 » Build It Yourself
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top