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Posted: 1/27/2020 1:25:30 PM EDT
[#1]
Yeah. I don’t think they can afford to make it the right way.
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Posted: 1/27/2020 4:14:56 PM EDT
[#2]
fill it with foam.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Brownells-Buttstock/123-723747/ |
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Posted: 1/27/2020 5:20:51 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks for the heads-up. I was thinking about ordering a set of hand guards from Brownell’s but from what you said I’ll just keep looking elsewhere.
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Posted: 1/27/2020 6:28:25 PM EDT
[#4]
When I handled the Brownells rifles, the handguards were too flimsy for me. However, the ones on the Proto and BRN-10 were rock solid with zero discernible flex. Didn't notice any issues with the stock but maybe they should thicken up the molds and make em a bit more stout.
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Posted: 1/27/2020 7:10:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
So I just finished a semi retro build and used the Brownells "Early-design, A1-length, with non trap door butt plate and early-style sling swivel" One word: cheap.......as hell. |
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Posted: 1/28/2020 2:49:57 AM EDT
[#6]
The rattle goes away when you put the stock on a rifle. The handguards aren't as stiff as originals, but they're also not beat to hell, or expensive, and they are likely far less brittle.
Reproduction parts are a compromise. If it weren't for Brownells offering reproductions, originals would be extinct and expensive. If you want exact, spend big(ger) and get original parts. For the legions of people buying the current junk parts kits with broken handguards, and building them on A2 lowers, and .750 gas block nitride barrels, the Brownells stuff is going to be just fine. Sheesh, if you want to whine about Brownells, at least whine about things they do that are actually annoying, like dropping the free shipping from the 10% off coupon codes, and charging $5 Fedex Smart Post that doesn't show up for a week and a half... |
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Posted: 1/28/2020 3:42:39 AM EDT
[#7]
I put mine in the rifle and the rattle didnt go away.
I debated filling with foam. I did that on a few AKs. Once I tightened the screw, the bottom of the hotplate started to pull away from the stock. Just cheap crap. Really disappointed with Brownells. I bought a basic M16 BCG from Brownells for this rifle and it appears well made. As a matter of fact, almost everything for the rifle was purchased from Brownells. I think complaining about the quality of almost $90 in parts makes more sense than bitching about shipping or a $10 coupon. But that's probably just me. |
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Posted: 1/28/2020 4:16:49 AM EDT
[#8]
You want the real thing quality, step to the plate, look for an A1, drop 25-30K and wait over a year for that $200 stamp.
Reproduction does not mean perfect duplication. There are little things that Brownell's said when they came out that had to be changed to avoid copyright issues. For those who are unhappy, send them back, Brownell's will take them back and refund your money. $90 in parts is nothing, now a days, you will pay far more for just the stock screw from an original, go out and try to find a complete original set in good shape and you will shake your head... |
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Posted: 1/28/2020 5:13:04 AM EDT
[#9]
Lol.....I will
I expected this wasnt going to be genuine quality. I have shopped the prices on original sets. I guess I foolishly (LMAO) wanted to point out to those who might be on the fence about the sets, that they really are not worth it. I thought on a website where we share info on our hobby experiences with products would be appreciated. I do appreciate the link to the foam thread. That was actually helpful. |
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Posted: 1/28/2020 5:55:31 AM EDT
[#10]
Actually over the time since they introduced them, there have been a lot of people who have posted their experiences with them and the biggest complaint I have heard, is the green is terrible.
I can say, after shooting them for a while, they do hold up, they do wear and they do get smoother and shiny like the originals did. I would say, I got my monies worth out of them and they are still working, if you are wanting a real looking clone, then they probably are not for you, but I can say, they are no worse than the many companies that do the N-1 style stocks. I do say, for a shooting gun, they work and look fine. I just paid over $500 to replace the handguard on my original A-1 Registered gun, I had to take a deep breath for those! All in all, they are a $90 replica set that gives the look and is comfortable in the hand. They are not a clone set and they do have some differences between them and the originals. For the cost of furniture these days, they are worth the $90 in my opinion. |
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Posted: 1/28/2020 9:53:48 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just paid over $500 to replace the handguard on my original A-1 Registered gun, I had to take a deep breath for those! 
What kind of A1 hand guard is running $500? I can't even see NOS being that high for an A1. |
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Posted: 1/28/2020 2:00:34 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Jesus H. Christ, why?
What kind of A1 hand guard is running $500? I can't even see NOS being that high for an A1. |
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Posted: 1/28/2020 3:04:23 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I’m wondering the same. I have a couple of sets of NIW originals for which I paid no more than $40 each, not to mention the pristine sets I have that aren’t NIW. For $500, I’m sure the other party was pleased! But as I said, I am not unhappy with the deal, I took a deep breath and jumped off the cliff. You all can shake your head, I know I do quite often when people post what they find and what they pay for the stuff. |
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Posted: 1/29/2020 4:03:23 AM EDT
[#14]
Well, being a nub, I've never ever handled any original furniture, so I can't compare, but I love my Brownells retro furniture, and very satisfied with it as is. And no rattles and no flexing either. From pictures of originals, I fail to see any difference. Scuff marks rub right off with a scotch pad. Makes me wonder if some of the criticisms stated here are sincere. My dos centavos.
Names' Pat, cold war sailor |
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Posted: 1/29/2020 10:15:50 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was the one that opened the shipping crate from the depot, it was still a sealed cases of R and L new in wrapper, never installed or used. For what I paid for this rifle, they were actually a bargain and they were what I wanted. A lot of people pay a lot for little parts and then post about them right here in this section and they are working on reproduction or clones. 
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Posted: 1/29/2020 11:56:04 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, being a nub, I've never ever handled any original furniture, so I can't compare, but I love my Brownells retro furniture, and very satisfied with it as is. And no rattles and no flexing either. From pictures of originals, I fail to see any difference. Scuff marks rub right off with a scotch pad. Makes me wonder if some of the criticisms stated here are sincere. My dos centavos. Names' Pat, cold war sailor |
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Posted: 1/29/2020 12:43:13 PM EDT
[#17]
Noted. Maybe one of these days. In the meantime, totally satisfied.
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Posted: 1/29/2020 2:47:03 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Noted. Maybe one of these days. In the meantime, totally satisfied. When I was building my retro, I lucked up on all mint unissued original furniture. Original is a must (for me), but 'must' does not mean 'only'. That is one of the coolest things about these rifles - the ease at which furniture can be changed out. That's why I have been following this thread with interest...because when shooting weather returns, I am going to put a lot of ammo through my A1. I am thinking about getting some decent repro furniture so I don't scuff up my good Sunday-go-to-meetin' stuff. |
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Posted: 1/29/2020 4:19:42 PM EDT
[#19]
One thing I can say about the Brownell's furniture, it is not brittle, even the NOS non-issued original hand guards can be brittle and it can be easy to break a tooth off the hand guard, I know I have done it. The used furniture can really be brittle with the different things it has been exposed to over the years.
The teeth on the Brownell's reproduction will bend and leave a white stress line at the bend, but it is harder to break because of the plastic composition. |
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Posted: 1/29/2020 4:35:15 PM EDT
[#20]
USS CASS
Well, you're lucky to have a place to go shoot. Not so here. No public rifle ranges here in Victoria county. We do have shooting weather mostly all year around here in south Texas, but I'm limited to doing just a few test shots out on a seldom used country road away from civilization, hoping the county Mounties don't show up.  Have some thick brush and trees on both sides of the road, and that drowns out a lot of the noise.
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Posted: 1/29/2020 6:16:00 PM EDT
[#21]
The more I look at the foam thread, the more I think I might be able to turn these into viable working parts.
I foam filled AK butt stocks years ago, and they turned out great. I'm wondering if I could foam fill the stock WITH that insert in place giving it even more rigidity? |
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Posted: 1/29/2020 6:56:32 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The more I look at the foam thread, the more I think I might be able to turn these into viable working parts. I foam filled AK butt stocks years ago, and they turned out great. I'm wondering if I could foam fill the stock WITH that insert in place giving it even more rigidity? http://www.450bushmaster.net/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15169 The foam filling idea reminded me of this post on another site. Left cold not sure of the rules about linking to that site. The guy filled his Cav Arms stock with a mixture of fiberglass resin and this microbead stuff and left a void for a recoil reducing weight for a shotgun. |
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Posted: 1/29/2020 8:22:58 PM EDT
[#23]
Buy an original set for $20.
https://www.sarcoinc.com/m16-project-stock-set-early-original-1-set/ |
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Posted: 1/29/2020 9:25:58 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Buy an original set for $20. https://www.sarcoinc.com/m16-project-stock-set-early-original-1-set/ |
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Posted: 1/29/2020 9:38:38 PM EDT
[#25]
I ordered a set and the only thing wrong with it was the swivel sling mount was missing. If I start building another XM16E1 clone, I'll order another set without hesitation.
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Posted: 1/30/2020 2:39:27 AM EDT
[#26]
The stuff that Sarco sells, we used to change out and throw in the burn pile..
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Posted: 1/30/2020 8:52:09 AM EDT
[#27]
Got a couple from Numrich a few weeks back. One was usable as is after cleaning. The other had a rusted sling swivel, bolt, butt plate hinge and buttplate latch.
Used the prettiest one, still working on the rusted parts for the second one. 
Oh, I think they were about $24 each. No idea what these look like vs. when they were new. The were "new" a long time ago and who knows what they've been through since. The last several builds I've done used the shorter A1 stocks. Just something about them I like. Here's a couple. 
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Posted: 1/30/2020 11:20:52 PM EDT
[#28]
The thing is, if you buy real deal furniture in excellent shape it's generally expensive. Surplus furniture can range anywhere from trash to perfect and expensive to a bargain, but you usually have the luck of the draw. Sarco might send you something decent in a week, or they might send you garbage 3 weeks later, same with Numrich, you won't know until you get it in your hands. Want to hedge your bets, order 3 or more sets at once, then you can throw out the crap and pick the best of three, but you'll have spent as much as a nice set from the classifieds.
Or you can order from Brownells, and get something that's brand new, a known quantity. You know what to expect. There's something to be said for that. If you'd rather take your chances with surplus or pay the premium for hand select surplus, that's your option. If you're building a clone on a non-original receiver, non-original barrel, what does it matter if the furniture isn't original? There's no white/black, yes/no, way to judge one or the other. They both have their benefits. To say that Brownell's furniture is garbage is missing the point. To be completely fair and honest, I built an A1 with all surplus parts aside from the barrel and receiver, and an M16 clone with a lot of Brownells parts including the furniture, and both are nice rifles. I order from Sarco and Numrich both several times a year, and 50% of what they send is pure crap, the other 50% pure gold, no way to know what's going to show up. 
My M16 clones. One with surplus Colt furniture that was dirty and is brittle, that required replacement bits to make nice. The other with Brownell's furniture that is durable, brand new, and a reproduction. So what difference does it make? |
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Posted: 2/2/2020 2:11:54 PM EDT
[#29]
Just got a couple furniture sets and several handguards from Numrich. All parts-----the quality has really dropped from the last time I ordered the same condition items. Nature of a dwindling supply.
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Posted: 2/3/2020 9:27:37 PM EDT
[#30]
I used a Brownells stock on my most recent build. Mostly a look alike not a fully accurate clone since I used a nitrated 1/9 pencil barrel, modern lower and a nickel boron bolt instead of chrome but I like it.
I used surplus GI handguards I got from here which are in really good shape and used the Brownells stock. I like it. Doesn't have the pedigree of surplus parts but gets the job done and I don't have the rattling issue. Doesn't seem that cheaply made to me either. Nice to have these parts being made new. |
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Posted: 2/4/2020 1:21:43 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:You want the real thing quality, step to the plate, look for an A1, drop 25-30K and wait over a year for that $200 stamp. The only reason to have a 'real' one, would be the ability to go full auto and I had my fill of full auto in the Army, so I'd satisfied with a semi-auto 'clone'. If I could get a full auto for $2500, as opposed to $25,000, I'd probably jump all over it. But there's just so much more that I'd do with $25k than put it into a single rifle. |
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Posted: 2/5/2020 4:09:38 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Jesus H. Christ, why?
What kind of A1 hand guard is running $500? I can't even see NOS being that high for an A1. |
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Posted: 2/12/2020 1:05:38 PM EDT
[#33]
Just wanted to update:
I filled my stock with closed cell foam. I followed the thread linked above and filled my stock with the insert in place. It is still in the process of curing, but so far so good. It has turned the stock into a rock solid piece of equipment. I am impressed. I still have to trim it, install it, and put the butt plate on. I'll report back once I finish. I would definitely have to change to a "Buy it". |
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Posted: 2/12/2020 10:30:34 PM EDT
[#34]
I just finished up 2 retro builds, an AF style M16 and an M16A1. I lucked out on both uppers, only 1 has a handguard with a missing tooth. I had bought an early no trapdoor buttstock off ebay 2 years ago, paid well for it, but it is a nice one and still cheaper than what they go for now.
2 years ago I stopped into a gun shop in KY. On their bargain table was a bunch of C marked A1 pistol grips, all in the little plastic bag with inventory and cage code stickers, all dot matrix printed. I bought every one they had at 2 bucks apiece. luckily I started on the retro stuff early and managed to get what I needed. |
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Posted: 2/13/2020 5:18:37 PM EDT
[#35]
I finally finished up.
Hit a snag when I tried to remove the buffer tube. I had covered it in gun oil and inserted it, then put the plastic insert in. I filled the stock with closed cell foam. The foam expanded around the insert and into the space occupied by the buffer tube. It hardened and held the buffer tightly in place. I used a hammer and the handle of a screwdriver to tap the buffer tube out. I then scraped the overflow dry foam out of the buffer tube space. Everything fit snug then. The overflow peeled off the outside easily. I then carved relief for the butt plate into the hardened foam. Assembled and everything looks and feels great It feels just the way I wanted it to. Again, my opinion has changed. I would buy again and foam fill again. It made all the difference. |
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Posted: 2/13/2020 8:31:29 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I finally finished up. Hit a snag when I tried to remove the buffer tube. I had covered it in gun oil and inserted it, then put the plastic insert in. I filled the stock with closed cell foam. The foam expanded around the insert and into the space occupied by the buffer tube. It hardened and held the buffer tightly in place. I used a hammer and the handle of a screwdriver to tap the buffer tube out. I then scraped the overflow dry foam out of the buffer tube space. Everything fit snug then. The overflow peeled off the outside easily. I then carved relief for the butt plate into the hardened foam. Assembled and everything looks and feels great It feels just the way I wanted it to. Again, my opinion has changed. I would buy again and foam fill again. It made all the difference. |
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Posted: 2/14/2020 5:10:33 AM EDT
[#37]
@Brownells
Should release a stock that is already foam filled. |
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Posted: 2/14/2020 7:10:54 PM EDT
[#38]
44Echo10-
I used a product called Tite Bond Tite Foam. It is in a can with a blue label and a red top. The foam comes out "wet and soggy/greasey" kinda. Years ago I foam filled AK stocks i got from Kvar. I guess i used open cell foam for those because that foam came out "light and dry". I cured fast. I learned that closed cell foam will say something along the lines of "for filling gaps/spaces less than one inch". It is a heavy foam that obviously expands as it dries, but I had no idea how much. Let me know if anyone else has questions. It is a easy project to take one. |
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Posted: 2/14/2020 7:43:05 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
44Echo10- I used a product called Tite Bond Tite Foam. It is in a can with a blue label and a red top. The foam comes out "wet and soggy/greasey" kinda. Years ago I foam filled AK stocks i got from Kvar. I guess i used open cell foam for those because that foam came out "light and dry". I cured fast. I learned that closed cell foam will say something along the lines of "for filling gaps/spaces less than one inch". It is a heavy foam that obviously expands as it dries, but I had no idea how much. Let me know if anyone else has questions. It is a easy project to take one. I see Loctite brand tite foam meeting your description. Tite bond foam is called something different. |
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