Walk in the park, and lets start with the barrel feed ramps.

Get a chop stick, wrap 400 sand paper around the end of it to use as a softening tool.



So in the above photo of the feed ramps, we want to soften the edges at the U slots edged up the center of the guide ramp and then at the very ends of the guide ramps where they are closest to the barrel.  Don't go buck wild and we just want to soften the edges with  the every so slightly rounded edges, instead of the current sharp edges.  The start of the feed ramp edges, we want too ever so slightly taper these into the upper receiver feed ramps, without touching the aluminum feed ramp of the upper receiver.
Note, if you have the talent/tools to remove the barrel, or as your building a upper, do the needed light clean up of the barrel ramps before the barrel is installed in the upper receiver.

On the mags, strip them down to clean them with CLP, and when you have the mag bodies in hand, use the same stick with sand paper to remove any burs on the bottom of the feed ramps that the cases may be scrapping down at they are driving out of the mag by the bolt. Also, on the very front top inside of the mag body, use the tool to remove any burs that the cases may be scrapping across as the round is being pushed forward in the mag.

Now on the bolt, remove the extractor from the bolt to start with.  Here, we can to clean up any burs on the sides of the extractor grabbing claw bottom edges, and on the side of the rim relief channel.  So with small jewels file in hand, it only going to be the very edges of the extractor claw that has burs that we want to remove, while leaving the claw edge of the extractor very sharp still.


Next, just below the claw, you have the relief channel for the case rim, and since the extractor rotates around on the spent case rim as  the bolt goes to unlock, we need to remove burs on the edge of channel that may be scrapping off brass during the unlock as well.


Touched up in the end with some super blue.


Next, lets address the bolt face.
Since the bolt will be rotating on the spent case as the bolt goes to unlock (spent case pressure welded to the chamber) any burs on the bolt face are going to scrap the brass as well.

So for starters, check the rim edge of the bolt face for a bur at the extractor channel that may be causing problem and remove it.


Another place you can have burs is at the ejector channel, but is a little more harder to clean up.

So to clean up a bur at the extractor channel, you need to remove the ejector, then replace it in the end.

If you can borrow/grow a third hand, it not hard to do.
Put the extractor back in the bolt so you can use a spent case to press the ejector back into the bolt, then drive the side roll pin out to free the extractor and it's spring as you bring tension off the spent case.  Now you can put the back of the bolt tail in a drill with the ejector removed, and using 400 sand paper on the end of the chop stick , you can spin the bolt  to remove the bur, and even polish up the bolt face a touch as well.  Also, this allows you to use a drill bit down the ejector channel to remove any debris in the channel as well.  Once polished of any burs, hit the bolt face with some super blue to re-blacken the bolt face.

With ejector removed, spin it in a drill via the tail end of the bolt and remove the center nub from the tip of the extractor tip, and every so slightly round the face edges of the ejector.  Again, the ejector will be rotating with the bolt on the case back face at unlock against the pressure welded spent case in the chamber, and we don't want burs anywhere on the bolt face/its pasts that are going to be shaving brass as the bolt rotates against the fixed spent case.


To reinstall the ejector back in bolt, spent case again off the extractor to compress the ejector into the channel with its spring, use a small pin to make sure that the side releif channel for the roll pin on the ejector is aligned with the roll pin channel, and re-punch the roll pin back in to hold the ejector in the bolt face channel.
Note, there are ejector install tools, but since you may only have the ejector out once, the spent case off the extractor works very well.

To sum it up, the feed ramp end edges are bit sharp still and doing a touch of shaving on the feed, but the major of the gold mine of brass shaving in the action, is coming from the bolt during unlock isntead.

To clean the rifle (short of the barrel bore) and lube the rifle, Use CLP!!!!
Hence bore first gets cleaned with a good copper solvent like Sweets to remove the copper fouling it in quickly without needed a lot of scrubbing, the chamber brush with CLP is used clean the chamber next, then the rest of the rifle parts as well.
Hence with the amount of fouling I am seeing in the chamber, can tell that your not cleaning, nor lubing the upper bearing areas with CLP.


To add, to get the steel parts black again, super blue,


And to blacken any aluminum parts, aluminum black.
Note, in either either case, use some acetone on the parts to remove any lubes first, then use the solvent on a q tip.
[img]https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3K4AAOSwY~1aNk9G/s-l500.jpg" />

And before someone brings it up, all the above parts will self polish out over time via just live fire on their own, but it does take a while for that to happen, so I like to clean the surfaces up as I am building the rig to start with.

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Once last thing that I just noticed, is the chamber radius entry surface to the actual chamber  looks it still has a sharp edge that the entry taper cut did not remove on the top side of the chamber entry (or may just be fouling).   Run the chop stick alone, down the chamber back  rounded entry surface on the top side of the barrel inside the barrel chamber, and if the chop stick does finds a sharp edge on the top of the back of chamber radius to the chamber inner  flats at the entry of the actual chamber, the upper (or least the barrel) needs to be sent back for that to be corrected.  
Hence you have long scraped down the sides of your spent cases, and can't tell if the scraps are coming from the mag lip burs, or that sharp edge (which may not be fouling build up) on the top of chamber wall section that was not removed via the rounding radius cut of the breach of the chamber into the entry of the chamber walls isntead.

As stated, the majority of the shaved brass is coming from burs on the extractor, and maybe a bur on the bolt face at the extractor cut edge on it.
Hence bolt has to cam around on the spent case while the spent case is pressure welded/stationary to the chamber before the bolt unlocks and can pull the case free of the chamber, and it's two areas that will really shave the hell out of the brass rims via burs.


The feed ramps, a few sharp edges that need to be clean up at most the barrel side of the ramps. Granted that is marking the brass, but not really shaving it on the feeds.

Bottom of carrier, the front leading edge of the taper cut could use some smoothing as well.


As for chamber, get it cleaned up, and re-post a photo see if the back of chamber wall on the top side has a sharp edge that could be shaving brass on entry to the chamber, or if what I am seeing is just built up fouling instead.

In this photo, the feed ramp side entry to the chamber looks well rounded, while the top side into the chamber does look to have a step edge instead.

If you would like us to bring it in for warranty repair, please PM me your order number, and I will take care of you.

Thank you,

Josiah