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Posted: 5/14/2020 8:36:49 PM EDT
[#1]
Can't speak to the 450, but the 458 runs fine for me using standard 30rd gi mags, lancers and a few others. Most require no adjustments. Some may need feed lips tweaked a bit. If you shoot flat nosed bullets you may want to half moon the front.
The 458 was designed to use standard mags. They wanted as little change as possible. Also you can do this with the socom, not sure about the bushmaster.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 5/14/2020 8:42:42 PM EDT
[#2]
This topic is near and dear... I built a 450 (mostly on the cheap) last hear and have been having a bitch of a time getting it to feed. I have tried every trick you can find on the internet but still have issues. It doesn't bother me too much as I figure I'll only get one shot with it and would have time to clear / fix the feed before the next one if I needed a follow up. Sometimes it will feed 4 or 5 in a row and sometimes it's every one that fails. I haven't given up on finding a solution, just taking a break from it for now.
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Posted: 5/14/2020 9:10:48 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Whale: This topic is near and dear... I built a 450 (mostly on the cheap) last hear and have been having a bitch of a time getting it to feed. I have tried every trick you can find on the internet but still have issues. It doesn't bother me too much as I figure I'll only get one shot with it and would have time to clear / fix the feed before the next one if I needed a follow up. Sometimes it will feed 4 or 5 in a row and sometimes it's every one that fails. I haven't given up on finding a solution, just taking a break from it for now. That's pretty much where I settled with the 6.8 SPC. It wasnt quite that bad but even with the suggested PRI mags it never fed reliably 100% of the time. The LWRC Six8 fixed the issue using a special lower and proprietary Pmags but I'm into building (assembling to some people) my ARs, buying complete just takes some of the fun away for me. I already have a bolt as stated above and have an Aero AR15 XL upper on the way so I'm dedicated now, I just pray that whatever I go with between the two i can get it to feed reliably. I'm still leaning towards the 450 and I wouldn't even second guess it if I knew there were good, dedicated mags for it. |
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Posted: 5/14/2020 9:16:42 PM EDT
[#4]
I have a bunch of .458s from 6.750” to 28”, to 20” if you count only the gassed semi-auto firearms. But all of them have always performed flawlessly with standard GI mags or Lancers, using TJ/TROMIX/Paladin made barrels And bolts. The mags need no modifications but I cut a half-moon the front to make unloading unfired rounds easier. 7 to 8 rounds in a 20, 11 rounds in a 30, 32 IIRC in that snail drum, and all mags still function 100% in 5.56.
Standard mags, bullets from 100 to 600 gr, easy to reload, more and more factory loads coming on line every month, SAAMI be damned, it’s a great round. |
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Posted: 5/14/2020 9:21:24 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Whale: This topic is near and dear... I built a 450 (mostly on the cheap) last hear and have been having a bitch of a time getting it to feed. I have tried every trick you can find on the internet but still have issues. It doesn't bother me too much as I figure I'll only get one shot with it and would have time to clear / fix the feed before the next one if I needed a follow up. Sometimes it will feed 4 or 5 in a row and sometimes it's every one that fails. I haven't given up on finding a solution, just taking a break from it for now. Try a TROMIX bolt. That helps a lot to solve feeding problems on cheap brand barrels who don’t have a clue on how to make a proper big bore bolt/extractor/ejector. They often muck up the barrel extension too but that’s a more complicated fix if the maker has butchered the BE too badly. |
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Posted: 5/14/2020 9:56:29 PM EDT
[#6]
If you don't reload, get the bottle-neck cartridge; can't hurt feeding.
If you do reload get the one that shoots .452 bullets; plinkers are half the price of the .458 bullets. Or throw caution to the wind and get a 50 Beowulf. |
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Posted: 5/14/2020 9:57:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Big-Bore: Try a TROMIX bolt. That helps a lot to solve feeding problems on cheap brand barrels who don’t have a clue on how to make a proper big bore bolt/extractor/ejector. They often muck up the barrel extension too but that’s a more complicated fix if the maker has butchered the BE too badly. Thanks for the tip, I will give that a try. |
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Posted: 5/15/2020 7:53:27 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Whale: This topic is near and dear... I built a 450 (mostly on the cheap) last hear and have been having a bitch of a time getting it to feed. I have tried every trick you can find on the internet but still have issues. It doesn't bother me too much as I figure I'll only get one shot with it and would have time to clear / fix the feed before the next one if I needed a follow up. Sometimes it will feed 4 or 5 in a row and sometimes it's every one that fails. I haven't given up on finding a solution, just taking a break from it for now. Many times, the user will either have a bad bolt or a sketchy bolt that is truly the root of their feed problems, but they attack the magazine first. And sometimes they are able to jury rig up a magazine that will actually work with their sub-par bolt, other times not. Unfortunately, it is those guys that usually do the most damage on the internet by touting their "fix" based on a single isolated instance where the root of the problem was never really fixed. That in turn causes guys to go completely nuts trying every friggin mag option they can come up with while they chase their tail looking for a solution. Tony |
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Posted: 5/15/2020 8:31:03 AM EDT
[#9]
I've tried Hex Mags, USGI (20 & 30), and Lancers with my 458's. All have worked fine with no issues. I use the Lancer 20's almost exclusively for shooting at the bench, and I have a couple of their clear 30's with +2 extensions for blasting with. Those will hold 13 rounds and insert easily on a closed bolt.
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Posted: 5/15/2020 8:49:58 AM EDT
[#10]
 My 450 Bushmaster magazine stash. The three with the green followers are standard straight 20rds with 458 SOCOM followers from CAlegalmags.com and they hold 7 rds have been 100%. Make sure your feed lips are smooth and I have never had an issue with feeding in my 450 BM from my converted magazine or factory magazines. |
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Posted: 5/15/2020 10:33:07 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mcb: https://i.imgur.com/aoPjyFOm.jpg My 450 Bushmaster magazine stash. The three with the green followers are standard straight 20rds with 458 SOCOM followers from CAlegalmags.com and they hold 7 rds have been 100%. Make sure your feed lips are smooth and I have never had an issue with feeding in my 450 BM from my converted magazine or factory magazines. All of those mags work, because you have a good bolt in your gun. If you were to install a bad bolt, none of the mags would feed. Tony |
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Posted: 5/15/2020 11:14:39 AM EDT
[#12]
I'm sure you can make a bad bolt a million different ways, but what is the difference between a good bolt and a bad bolt?
I hear a lot about bolts but I never hear the how and why. Can you look at a bolt and see the difference like a barrel extension? |
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Posted: 5/15/2020 12:03:20 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: All of those mags work, because you have a good bolt in your gun. If you were to install a bad bolt, none of the mags would feed. Tony Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: https://i.imgur.com/aoPjyFOm.jpg My 450 Bushmaster magazine stash. The three with the green followers are standard straight 20rds with 458 SOCOM followers from CAlegalmags.com and they hold 7 rds have been 100%. Make sure your feed lips are smooth and I have never had an issue with feeding in my 450 BM from my converted magazine or factory magazines. All of those mags work, because you have a good bolt in your gun. If you were to install a bad bolt, none of the mags would feed. Tony 
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Posted: 5/15/2020 12:32:41 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Happy2shoot: I'm sure you can make a bad bolt a million different ways, but what is the difference between a good bolt and a bad bolt? I hear a lot about bolts but I never hear the how and why. Can you look at a bolt and see the difference like a barrel extension? Here's a pic of a bolt that was having feeding problems (Left), and the bolt that fixed those problems (Right). What you want to look at, is the top of the perimeter wall that surrounds the bolt pocket. The top of that wall needs to be smooth and FLAT to allow the case head to slide upward across it, in order to get parallel with the bore. The bolt on the Left has a chamfer cut on the top of that perimeter wall that leaves the top of the wall like a knife edge (between each lug). That knife edge will dig into the case head and prevent it from sliding upward across the bolt face. The reason that angled cut/chamfer was made, is simply because that is how a 5.56 bolt is made, and the manufacturer knows nothing different. They cut the .308 size bolt just like they cut their 5.56 bolts and called it a day. So if your bolt pocket is flared at the top, making it funnel shaped, there is a good chance you'll have problems. Keep in mind, there are varying degrees of "sharpness" to that knife edge around the pocket that make it difficult to determine if the bolt will work or not. If the edge is kinda dull, it may still feed fine, or feed all but the last round from the mag. The reason the last round has trouble, is because there isn't another round beneath it, helping push the case head up across that sharp edge. Tony  |
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Posted: 5/15/2020 2:46:25 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TonyRumore: Here's a pic of a bolt that was having feeding problems (Left), and the bolt that fixed those problems (Right). What you want to look at, is the top of the perimeter wall that surrounds the bolt pocket. The top of that wall needs to be smooth and FLAT to allow the case head to slide upward across it, in order to get parallel with the bore. The bolt on the Left has a chamfer cut on the top of that perimeter wall that leaves the top of the wall like a knife edge (between each lug). That knife edge will dig into the case head and prevent it from sliding upward across the bolt face. The reason that angled cut/chamfer was made, is simply because that is how a 5.56 bolt is made, and the manufacturer knows nothing different. They cut the .308 size bolt just like they cut their 5.56 bolts and called it a day. So if your bolt pocket is flared at the top, making it funnel shaped, there is a good chance you'll have problems. Keep in mind, there are varying degrees of "sharpness" to that knife edge around the pocket that make it difficult to determine if the bolt will work or not. If the edge is kinda dull, it may still feed fine, or feed all but the last round from the mag. The reason the last round has trouble, is because there isn't another round beneath it, helping push the case head up across that sharp edge. Tony https://i.imgur.com/R735bTV.jpg?1 The left bolt looks just like my Toolcraft 450/458 bolt. Whatever I end up choosing I'll probably just get the Tromix barrel & bolt combo right off the bat and some 20rd Lancers with the Tromix followers. Now I'm kind of leaning more towards the 458 and its payday...one too many beers tonight and I might end up ordering one 
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Posted: 5/15/2020 3:03:42 PM EDT
[#16]
I will of course recommend the 458 SOCOM. However, any of the large 308 Head sized cases will have the problem if the bolt is not made correctly. Those Radical, Tool Craft, and BCA bolts often have that problem regardless of caliber.
The TROMIX followers are great but they are not needed unless your state requires the mags to only hold .458 rounds. |
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Posted: 5/15/2020 3:03:55 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TonyRumore: Here's a pic of a bolt that was having feeding problems (Left), and the bolt that fixed those problems (Right). What you want to look at, is the top of the perimeter wall that surrounds the bolt pocket. The top of that wall needs to be smooth and FLAT to allow the case head to slide upward across it, in order to get parallel with the bore. The bolt on the Left has a chamfer cut on the top of that perimeter wall that leaves the top of the wall like a knife edge (between each lug). That knife edge will dig into the case head and prevent it from sliding upward across the bolt face. The reason that angled cut/chamfer was made, is simply because that is how a 5.56 bolt is made, and the manufacturer knows nothing different. They cut the .308 size bolt just like they cut their 5.56 bolts and called it a day. So if your bolt pocket is flared at the top, making it funnel shaped, there is a good chance you'll have problems. Keep in mind, there are varying degrees of "sharpness" to that knife edge around the pocket that make it difficult to determine if the bolt will work or not. If the edge is kinda dull, it may still feed fine, or feed all but the last round from the mag. The reason the last round has trouble, is because there isn't another round beneath it, helping push the case head up across that sharp edge. Tony https://i.imgur.com/R735bTV.jpg?1 Okay, those of you who “roll your own” (and over the past 25+ years I’ve built dozens of ARs, except my 375 SOCOM upper), I hope you recognize the guy who builds these for a living just gave up some hard learned and valuable information. Make of that as you wish. |
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Posted: 5/15/2020 4:25:50 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TonyRumore: Here's a pic of a bolt that was having feeding problems (Left), and the bolt that fixed those problems (Right). What you want to look at, is the top of the perimeter wall that surrounds the bolt pocket. The top of that wall needs to be smooth and FLAT to allow the case head to slide upward across it, in order to get parallel with the bore. The bolt on the Left has a chamfer cut on the top of that perimeter wall that leaves the top of the wall like a knife edge (between each lug). That knife edge will dig into the case head and prevent it from sliding upward across the bolt face. The reason that angled cut/chamfer was made, is simply because that is how a 5.56 bolt is made, and the manufacturer knows nothing different. They cut the .308 size bolt just like they cut their 5.56 bolts and called it a day. So if your bolt pocket is flared at the top, making it funnel shaped, there is a good chance you'll have problems. Keep in mind, there are varying degrees of "sharpness" to that knife edge around the pocket that make it difficult to determine if the bolt will work or not. If the edge is kinda dull, it may still feed fine, or feed all but the last round from the mag. The reason the last round has trouble, is because there isn't another round beneath it, helping push the case head up across that sharp edge. Tony https://i.imgur.com/R735bTV.jpg?1 Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TonyRumore: Originally Posted By Happy2shoot: I'm sure you can make a bad bolt a million different ways, but what is the difference between a good bolt and a bad bolt? I hear a lot about bolts but I never hear the how and why. Can you look at a bolt and see the difference like a barrel extension? Here's a pic of a bolt that was having feeding problems (Left), and the bolt that fixed those problems (Right). What you want to look at, is the top of the perimeter wall that surrounds the bolt pocket. The top of that wall needs to be smooth and FLAT to allow the case head to slide upward across it, in order to get parallel with the bore. The bolt on the Left has a chamfer cut on the top of that perimeter wall that leaves the top of the wall like a knife edge (between each lug). That knife edge will dig into the case head and prevent it from sliding upward across the bolt face. The reason that angled cut/chamfer was made, is simply because that is how a 5.56 bolt is made, and the manufacturer knows nothing different. They cut the .308 size bolt just like they cut their 5.56 bolts and called it a day. So if your bolt pocket is flared at the top, making it funnel shaped, there is a good chance you'll have problems. Keep in mind, there are varying degrees of "sharpness" to that knife edge around the pocket that make it difficult to determine if the bolt will work or not. If the edge is kinda dull, it may still feed fine, or feed all but the last round from the mag. The reason the last round has trouble, is because there isn't another round beneath it, helping push the case head up across that sharp edge. Tony https://i.imgur.com/R735bTV.jpg?1 Awesome post, thanks. My AA 50 Beowulf looks like the bolt on the right. Except everything on the lugs is a sharp right-angle. I put some 600 grit sandpaper on a sheet of glass and put about 15 seconds (careful to keep the bolt flat) of sanding on the face. Then, I went after the 4 sharp front corners on those bottom two lugs (when the bolt is extended). Literally, just enough to make it not unpleasant to rub my finger across it. Don't know if it will make a difference for my setup, but I felt like I learned a lesson here and I wanted to apply it. Thanks again |
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Posted: 5/15/2020 10:49:40 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Big-Bore: I will of course recommend the 458 SOCOM. However, any of the large 308 Head sized cases will have the problem if the bolt is not made correctly. Those Radical, Tool Craft, and BCA bolts often have that problem regardless of caliber. The TROMIX followers are great but they are not needed unless your state requires the mags to only hold .458 rounds. Good to know, I thought the follower was a mandatory upgrade. Minnesota does not limit mags, for now anyway. I'm 90% sure I'm going 458 now |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 3:20:41 PM EDT
[#20]
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Posted: 5/16/2020 7:15:27 PM EDT
[#21]
I'm so close to ordering the Tromix 458 kit that comes with a pin and welded blackened stainless 14" barrel with muzzle brake bringing to to 16.25" OAL, and bolt for $515 total but I think the ports on the brake will be just shy of clearing the end of my 14.96" Aero Atlas R One handguard.
I'll probably have to end up ordering the 16.25" lightweight barrel & bolt, which is fine but it only comes in 4150 chromoly and that extra 2" of length will be noticable in the woods (I typically walk and stalk while deer hunting). Any other good barrel options I should look into? I'll use the Tromix bolt regardless but I might shop around for a barrel that fits what I want a little better. |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 9:08:32 PM EDT
[#22]
Call Tony and ask him for more information and tell him the issue. He may even be able to custom cut you a barrel if you ask nicely and he is not real busy and his machines aren’t all tied up. Other makers who know what they are doing is Rock River, SBR, and SSK. The only problem with RRA is small selection. SBR and SSK have much slower shipping times and are considerably more expensive.
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Posted: 5/17/2020 12:11:14 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Big-Bore: Call Tony and ask him for more information and tell him the issue. He may even be able to custom cut you a barrel if you ask nicely and he is not real busy and his machines aren’t all tied up. Other makers who know what they are doing is Rock River, SBR, and SSK. The only problem with RRA is small selection. SBR and SSK have much slower shipping times and are considerably more expensive. I did send him an IM hoping he had a solution before making my last post. I'll probably stick with Tromix either way, I'm not hige on RRA and I'm not even sure who those other two companies are (I've primarily stuck with 556, 6.8 and 308 AR builds in the past). I dont need match grade quality with this one, it's just a fun range gun and hopefully some short distance deer hunting. |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 12:29:56 PM EDT
[#24]
If Tony can’t make you one, I may have another solution to get exactly what you want, but it would require a little more work on your part and you would have to assemble your own upper and have the muzzle device pinned and welded.
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Posted: 5/17/2020 1:44:03 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Big-Bore: If Tony can’t make you one, I may have another solution to get exactly what you want, but it would require a little more work on your part and you would have to assemble your own upper and have the muzzle device pinned and welded. Awesome. I'm fully capable of everything but the pin/weld job, for that I use John at Retro Arms. I have another barrel I want the gas block pinned on anyway so maybe I can kill two birds with one stone. I suppose I could always have john just cut down the barrel to exactly what I need too but I'm not sure what that'll cost. |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 1:55:21 PM EDT
[#26]
Does anyone have experience with the Wilson adjustable gas block with straight gas tube, or should I just stick with a plain Geissele gas block? I will not run suppressed.
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Posted: 5/17/2020 2:11:44 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dubya3: I'm not even sure who those other two companies are. SSK Industries is J D Jones, hand cannon pioneer. |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 2:16:11 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dubya3: Does anyone have experience with the Wilson adjustable gas block with straight gas tube, or should I just stick with a plain Geissele gas block? I will not run suppressed. Unless you are going to shoot suppressed and want to turn off the gas completely, on the .458 SOCOM anyway, an adjustable gas block is not needed. Most rifles from 8 inches to 16 inches, supers to subs, do not need an adjustable gas block on the .458 SOCOM caliber. About the only time you need one is if you are going to shoot suppressed and want the quietest load you can get, and have the barrel gas port sized for TrialBoss powder. It will be well over gassed for shooting supers and other powders then so an adjustable gas block would not be a bad idea if you wanted suppressed and as quiet as possible but still want to shoot supers also. |
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Posted: 5/21/2020 7:26:01 PM EDT
[#29]
I just ordered the 16.25" lightweight 4150 chromoly barrel & bolt combo for $336 shipped. I figured if I I absolutely need to get that barrel as short as possible, John (Retro Arms) can do it.
I'll probably run a Magpul SL-S or ACS stock on the lower I eventually build for this one. Will a Geissele Super 42 buffer and spring be okay with this barrel/gas port? I think that spring is a little stronger than the standard carbine spring but it cant be by too much. Until I have a lower I'll probably run it on my LMT lower with A2 stock. Also, muzzle devices. Is a brake really needed? I tend to stay away from them because of the concussion and since I'll eventually hunt with this I'd rather use a flash hider or possibly a comp. Any suggestions? |
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Posted: 5/21/2020 7:48:51 PM EDT
[#30]
The recoil is not horrible. About like a 20ga. A brake isn't absolutely necessary. A good recoil pad goes a long way. The blast from the fishgill tromix sells is pretty good. It blows anything not nailed down off the bench. You definitely dont want to shoot it without hearing protection. I did on a hunting trip and my ears didn't clear up for a week.
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Posted: 5/21/2020 8:20:27 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The recoil is not horrible. About like a 20ga. A brake isn't absolutely necessary. A good recoil pad goes a long way. The blast from the fishgill tromix sells is pretty good. It blows anything not nailed down off the bench. You definitely dont want to shoot it without hearing protection. I did on a hunting trip and my ears didn't clear up for a week. I'm not a large human but I'm not recoil shy at all, I'd much rather save my ears than my shoulder. I think I'll look for a comp or FH. Thanks for your input. |
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Posted: 5/21/2020 8:27:17 PM EDT
[#32]
I know tromix radial comp is great. They also have a flash hider if you want to go that route.
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Posted: 5/21/2020 10:59:33 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I know tromix radial comp is great. They also have a flash hider if you want to go that route. Looks good, I'll order one of the comps. I like that it only adds 1.3" too. |
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Posted: 6/1/2020 5:47:07 PM EDT
[#34]
Upper is completely finished.
Aero XL upper & R-One 15" mlok handguard Tromix: barrel 16.25" lightweight, radial comp, BCG, gas block & tube BCM Mod 4x4 charging handle 458 SOCOM dustcover Midwest Industries 1.5" offset mount (the zero offset ADM Delta I bought didnt work the way I wanted it so I'm selling it) Trijicon Accupower 1-4x24 Lower & parts on the way include a M4E1 lower, Geissele LPK, Magpul K2+ grip, Aero carbine buffer tube/buffer/spring and Magpul SL-S SL-S stock. Last part to order is either a G2S or SSA fcg. I have a 30rd Lancer mag with the Tromix follower, is this able to fit 11 rounds reliably with the Tromix follower now or still only 10? |
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Posted: 6/1/2020 5:57:30 PM EDT
[#35]
With the TROMIX follower in a 30 R AWM it will only fit 10 .458s but with a standard follower it will fit 11. That's the purpose of the follower, to limit it to 10 rounds and not work correctly with 5.56 rounds for use in those states with such Draconian restrictions.
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Posted: 6/1/2020 6:20:45 PM EDT
[#36]
I just jumped into .450. I managed to find one Duramag 5 rounder on the web, so ordered it last night. I have a wide variety of AR mags to try out with it, and/or modify. I have an old steel 20 rounder, but my test round hits the front edge and I can see that jamming. I may try that tip-up follower in it. I have some aluminum mags hoping a few of them will feed ok. I can already see why Magpuls aren't recommended for the 450, that front divider post thingie has got to get in the way.
A friend has a .50 Beo, I'll ask him what he uses. IIRC, he designed and 3D printed his own followers for it (He's a mechanical engineer). Might have him make me a .450 follower to print. |
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Posted: 6/1/2020 6:46:00 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: With the TROMIX follower in a 30 R AWM it will only fit 10 .458s but with a standard follower it will fit 11. That's the purpose of the follower, to limit it to 10 rounds and not work correctly with 5.56 rounds for use in those states with such Draconian restrictions. Well that was a waste of $13 ??????? lol Not that I need that extra round anyway but yeah. Oh well, it's in there now. It may come in handy for hunting someday if laws change. |
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Posted: 6/8/2020 5:38:11 PM EDT
[#38]
Here's the finished rifle for those of you that might want to see it.
https://imgur.com/a/A3iZYz2 I'm probably going to take the LMT 2 stage trigger out, install it in my 14.5 Colt and put a SSA in the 458, otherwise it's ready to fire. Thanks for the info and help guys |
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Posted: 6/8/2020 6:48:54 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Here's the finished rifle for those of you that might want to see it. https://imgur.com/a/A3iZYz2 I'm probably going to take the LMT 2 stage trigger out, install it in my 14.5 Colt and put a SSA in the 458, otherwise it's ready to fire. Thanks for the info and help guys 
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Posted: 6/8/2020 8:15:57 PM EDT
[#40]
Niiiiice!
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Posted: 6/8/2020 9:09:22 PM EDT
[#41]
I have three 20rd Lancer smoke mags on the way for this rifle as well. I might even get a few 10rd Lancers because I dont want a long mag sticking out while I'm in the woods.
I'm really impressed by how light this thing is considering it's a full 16.25" barrel and I wasnt going for an ultralight build. It's not much heavier than my 14.5" Colt with a MRO HD on it, if at all. Makes me wonder how much better it could be if I had John at Retro Arms cut it down a bit and pin/weld the comp on ?? |
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Posted: 6/13/2020 5:04:32 PM EDT
[#42]
Instead of starting an entirely new thread I'll just ask here again.
I got some 20rd Lancer mags in, made the half moon cut with my Dremel in the front and loaded some rounds to cycle through the gun. The shells don't eject properly, or at all, while hand cycling. Speed doesn't seem to matter whether I pull the CH fast or slowly, 90% don't make it out of the receiver. I'm hoping this is simply because of the weight of the unfired round, is that more than likely what it is? I wont have time to actually get out and test fire for at least a couple more weeks. Toolcraft carrier with Tromix bolt & barrel |
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Posted: 6/13/2020 10:21:49 PM EDT
[#43]
It should eject solidly as soon as the bullet clears the barrel extension.
I see you have an Aero upper and they have been known to be problematic occasionally with the port door opening not being milled correctly. If the port is not enlarged properly it can bounce the case back into the action. The .458 SOCOM uppers from Aero and Anderson only have the front half of the top side of the ejection port milled away. Usually that is not a problem but it has on occasion caused problems for some people with ejection. The Andersons that I have, and there are several, have not had any problems with the back half not being milled away but there have been a few people who have had problems with the Aeros. If you can, pay close attention while pulling back on the CH and see what is happening. Is it being flipped out then bouncing back in, or is the bolt dropping the case as it is pulled from the chamber? IF the back half of the top side of the ejection port is interfering, then send it off to Paladin to be corrected. When Tony and Thomas mill ejection ports they take it off all the way across but still leave enough meat at the catch site to let the door latch shut. When I did a few of mine with a Dremel and file, I took off only about .010 off the top side and the rest off the bottom. IF you modify it yourself, be very careful not to remove much if any from the area the port door latches. Too much off there and you just messed up your upper and there is no way to add metal back. Also, make sure the short leg of the ejection port door spring is not sticking up proud and hitting the case. I use a very fine tooth hacksaw blade to cut a notch in the lower shelf of the ejection port opening for the leg to rest in and if it sticks into the interior of the action, trim off a very tiny amount. If the spring's short leg will catch on your finger if you run it into the ejection port then it could be hitting the case and causing it to release early or bounce back in. |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 1:01:39 PM EDT
[#44]
Once again, thank you for the info, BB.
My ejection port door spring is a bit proud, but I dont think its interfering. I'll shorten it a bit just to be certain though. https://imgur.com/a/lWILioo Yesterday I was cycling the gun with a loaded 7rd Lancer mag when I was having ejection problems. 2-3 will barely eject while the rest seem to get caught up and fall back in before full ejection. It definitely seems like the rounds are bouncing back into the action. This morning I tried single loading and cycling the rounds and every single one ejected properly. I'll cut the spring as flush as I can and try again this afternoon. |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 2:00:21 PM EDT
[#45]
If you need the port opened, send it to Paladin and he will get it done quickly and correctly. You’ll spend almost as much on shipping the upper to him and back than what he’ll charge to enlarge the port and square the front of the receiver if that needs to be done. Just send him the upper receiver without the barrel and it will only cost you about $18 round-trip with priority mail shipping in a flat rate box. I think he charges $25 to open the port and square the front of the receiver but don’t quote me on that. Check with him at tp555(at)windstream.net.
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Posted: 6/14/2020 2:25:52 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's pretty much where I settled with the 6.8 SPC. It wasnt quite that bad but even with the suggested PRI mags it never fed reliably 100% of the time. The LWRC Six8 fixed the issue using a special lower and proprietary Pmags but I'm into building (assembling to some people) my ARs, buying complete just takes some of the fun away for me. I already have a bolt as stated above and have an Aero AR15 XL upper on the way so I'm dedicated now, I just pray that whatever I go with between the two i can get it to feed reliably. I'm still leaning towards the 450 and I wouldn't even second guess it if I knew there were good, dedicated mags for it. Did your builds have M4 feedramps? |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 3:04:09 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've never used a PRI mag and never had a feeding issue with my 6.8's. Did your builds have M4 feedramps? Yes, I've only ever used M4 uppers/extensions. PRI mags are reliable MOST of the time but I've never been 100% confident that it would be flawless. I actually planned on picking up a LWRCI Six8 receiver set so I could run the Pmags but I ended up selling the few cases of XM68GD I had left and my buddy that worked at Federal found a new job so I can't get 500rd cases for $50 anymore ?? |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 3:22:16 PM EDT
[#48]
Must be a lucky sob because I’ve never had a feed issue with my 6.8’s or my .458’s.
PRi and Barrett mags for the 6.8, usgi and pmags for the .458 with standard followers. |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 4:16:15 PM EDT
[#49]
So I clipped then carefully ground down the port door spring flush and cycled three 7 round mags through it. Every round ejected just fine except for 3, all of which happened to be the 4th round in each mag.
I guess for now I'll just wait until I get time to actually test fire the gun. if the uppers port does infact need to be opened up more, I'll probably just buy a new upper from Tromix and use this one for a future small bore build. |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 8:57:14 PM EDT
[#50]
If you had a 6.8 that wouldn’t feed reliably with PRI mags, then something was wrong with your 6.8.
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