User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 5/22/2020 1:41:13 PM EDT
[#1]
John Thomas
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2020 3:06:29 PM EDT
[#2]
You can also send it to norrells but trust me I felt the same as you and I was blown away at how insanely easy it is to do
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2020 4:43:24 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: John Thomas |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/23/2020 12:25:54 AM EDT
[#4]
It's easier than you can ever imagine. I got a Badger 250 gun off Amazon with a few extras (longer hose/connector and water separator filter), use a porter cable pancake set at about 27 lbs, and a cheap toaster over and totally easy peasy. You can do it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/23/2020 1:27:20 AM EDT
[#5]
Don’t be afraid. I’m a total idiot and managed to get this black Troy upper and 80% lower to a great looking CAR-15 using molyresin, a badger brush, and a harbor freight compressor.
 Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/23/2020 7:23:37 AM EDT
[#6]
To make it even easier they sell airbrush kits WITH the compressor on Amazon I think I only paid around $50 for mine.
This is the one I got... 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/23/2020 1:00:05 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's easier than you can ever imagine. I got a Badger 250 gun off Amazon with a few extras (longer hose/connector and water separator filter), use a porter cable pancake set at about 27 lbs, and a cheap toaster over and totally easy peasy. You can do it. +1 |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/23/2020 2:24:28 PM EDT
[#8]
Do it yourself. Lots of good info that’s posted. Get a cheap airbrush kit and heat gun from Amazon. Heat the part up and multiple thin coats, keep on repeating that until the part is completely coated. You shouldnt get any runs. If you screw up don’t bake it, moly resin will come off with MEK so there’s a reset button.
The only problem with doing it yourself is you end up with leftover moly resin so you’ll end up building more 80% lowers. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/23/2020 9:59:22 PM EDT
[#9]
I did a receiver set a few years ago. I used a 5$ airbrush kit from harbor freight with my air compressor turned down to about 25-35 psi (I don’t remember exact pressure). I degreased it with brake cleaner, and soap and warm water a couple times, just to be sure. Heated it up in a toaster oven to the recommended temp and the moly resin sprayed easily and evenly and turned out perfect.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/24/2020 7:47:09 AM EDT
[#10]
This is so easy to do. Don’t be intimidated. If I can do it anyone can. If you have any problems ( you won’t ) there is a wealth of knowledge on this forum that can get you through anything. My first two clones clones all started life as black because US Anodizing wasn’t taking work and I was afraid to try Moly Resin. Once I did I was amazed at how easy it was!
 Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2020 7:53:17 PM EDT
[#11]
If you really haven't done anything like this before, and you aren't planning on doing anything like it again, send it off and have Norrell's do it.
My first attempt was an abject failure. I'm tired and irritated. This is "easy to use" if you've done something like this before. If you haven't, you'll probably wind up with a lumpy mess like I did the first time. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2020 8:01:49 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you really haven't done anything like this before, and you aren't planning on doing anything like it again, send it off and have Norrell's do it. My first attempt was an abject failure. I'm tired and irritated. This is "easy to use" if you've done something like this before. If you haven't, you'll probably wind up with a lumpy mess like I did the first time. The key is to keep the receiver hot/warm with a heat gun so that when you spray it on it drys right away another key is to do thin coats |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2020 8:16:48 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The key is to keep the receiver hot/warm with a heat gun so that when you spray it on it drys right away another key is to do thin coats Makes sense; don't have one, and at this point I'm not inclined to mess with this any more. I'm just going to have Norrell's do it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2020 8:39:47 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Makes sense; don't have one, and at this point I'm not inclined to mess with this any more. I'm just going to have Norrell's do it. I was tempted on having them do my XM16E1 reweld but I didn’t want to risk losing the roll marks during the prep |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2020 8:51:30 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you really haven't done anything like this before, and you aren't planning on doing anything like it again, send it off and have Norrell's do it. My first attempt was an abject failure. I'm tired and irritated. This is "easy to use" if you've done something like this before. If you haven't, you'll probably wind up with a lumpy mess like I did the first time. What air supply did you use? I started out using the canned air as walmart used to have it dirt cheap. That supply dried up so I switched to using my pancake aircompressor. Eventually my air sprayer gummed up and I think that's when I read that the molyresin reacts with water and solidifies. I was not running any type of dryer coming off the tank. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2020 9:12:10 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What air supply did you use? I started out using the canned air as walmart used to have it dirt cheap. That supply dried up so I switched to using my pancake aircompressor. Eventually my air sprayer gummed up and I think that's when I read that the molyresin reacts with water and solidifies. I was not running any type of dryer coming off the tank. Small air compressor with a water trap filter. My main issues were that a) I don't think I had properly degreased everything and b) I was spraying too close to the metal. As a result I was putting it on way too thick and it clumped in spots. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/28/2020 10:09:53 AM EDT
[#17]
I'm on the fence about trying this out too. I have wanted to try out some refinishing projects for a while now and this may be the push that I need. I would be looking to spray the Brownell's lower from this thread.
I have some questions for you guys who have done it: Is the anodizing on the reciever a "rough" enough surface that it would not need a media blast for prep? I don't have any equipment on hand other than a pancake compressor so it's looking like I'll need a filter for water and airbrush at a minimum. The "Application Guide" on the Norrell's site says that even a cheap airbrush setup is sufficient but what are the differences between the cheap ones and pricier models? Is there any other "nice to have" type stuff that I may want to consider? My plan would be to start out with some coating some tools or even just scraps of metal to get the hang of it before moving on to the receiver. Does anyone have any other BTDT advice for a first-timer? |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/28/2020 12:42:44 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm on the fence about trying this out too. I have wanted to try out some refinishing projects for a while now and this may be the push that I need. I would be looking to spray the Brownell's lower from this thread. I have some questions for you guys who have done it: Is the anodizing on the reciever a "rough" enough surface that it would not need a media blast for prep? I don't have any equipment on hand other than a pancaked ke compressor so it's looking like I'll need a filter for water and airbrush at a minimum. The "Application Guide" on the Norrell's site says that even a cheap airbrush setup is sufficient but what are the differences between the cheap ones and pricier models? Is there any other "nice to have" type stuff that I may want to consider? My plan would be to start out with some coating some tools or even just scraps of metal to get the hang of it before moving on to the receiver. Does anyone have any other BTDT advice for a first-timer? I left the anodizing on the magwell of my XM reweld and it seems to be holding up just fine. As far as the airbrush goes I literally bought the one I posted above it came with EVERYRHING you’ll need including the compressor and the water filter (which I did NOT use) the price was around $50 on amazon. I used brake cleaner to clean the receiver and kept it hot/warm so the moly resin dried on contact and did thin coats it literally took me about 30 minutes to coat the receiver and an hour in the oven at 300° to cure it. The way I look at it if you can build a rifle you can coat a receiver |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/28/2020 8:41:21 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is there any other "nice to have" type stuff that I may want to consider? A source for pre-heating the parts and then the eventual 1hr at 300 degrees. My first ones I did in the oven in my house. It was a pain to run back and forth from the house to the garage for the preheat part and then stunk up the house during the final cure. Later on I bought a toaster oven off of CL. It works though it would be nice if it were bigger. But it only cost me $10 so there's that. The upside to applying the MolyResin, is that if you feel like you didn't do a good job applying it you can always strip it off easily with MEK and start over .... before curing of course. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/28/2020 8:48:59 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A source for pre-heating the parts and then the eventual 1hr at 300 degrees. My first ones I did in the oven in my house. It was a pain to run back and forth from the house to the garage for the preheat part and then stunk up the house during the final cure. Later on I bought a toaster oven off of CL. It works though it would be nice if it were bigger. But it only cost me $10 so there's that. The upside to applying the MolyResin, is that if you feel like you didn't do a good job applying it you can always strip it off easily with MEK and start over .... before curing of course. If need be, you can use OFF oven cleaner to strip it if needed after curing. (If OFF can strip anodizing it’ll strip moly resin) |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/28/2020 8:50:43 PM EDT
[#21]
Nail polish remover (acetone) will strip it quickly too before curing, that's what I used to fix my mess.
You'll also want some way to hang the parts when you are spraying them. And obviously, don't handle the parts without gloves after you have degreased them. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/28/2020 9:43:15 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If need be, you can use OFF oven cleaner to strip it if needed after curing. (If OFF can strip anodizing it’ll strip moly resin) Quote HistoryQuoted: If need be, you can use OFF oven cleaner to strip it if needed after curing. (If OFF can strip anodizing it’ll strip moly resin) No, it actually won't. The active ingredient in oven cleaner is sodium hydroxide. From the Norrells website: Fluid Resistance Moly Resin™ will meet 24 hour emersion requirements in the following fluids: aviation gasoline, hydraulic fluid, jet fuel, lubricating oils, paint removers, trichlorethylene, nitric, sulphuric and hydrochloric acids, hydrogen peroxide, gun powder solvents, strong bases such as ammonium and sodium hydroxide, and numerous other strong chemicals. The only thing I know of that reliably removes it after curing is abrasive blasting. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/28/2020 9:49:04 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Nail polish remover (acetone) will strip it quickly too before curing, that's what I used to fix my mess. You have to watch using nail polish remover. Not all of them are pure acetone. Some contain conditioners, ect. that will leave unwanted residue. Better to use pure acetone or MEK (cheaper than nail polish remover too.) |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/28/2020 10:20:07 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm on the fence about trying this out too. I have wanted to try out some refinishing projects for a while now and this may be the push that I need. I would be looking to spray the Brownell's lower from this thread. I have some questions for you guys who have done it: Is the anodizing on the reciever a "rough" enough surface that it would not need a media blast for prep? I don't have any equipment on hand other than a pancake compressor so it's looking like I'll need a filter for water and airbrush at a minimum. The "Application Guide" on the Norrell's site says that even a cheap airbrush setup is sufficient but what are the differences between the cheap ones and pricier models? Is there any other "nice to have" type stuff that I may want to consider? My plan would be to start out with some coating some tools or even just scraps of metal to get the hang of it before moving on to the receiver. Does anyone have any other BTDT advice for a first-timer? Pick up the airbrush kit with the air compressor like the one posted. I got one and it works really well. Get a heat gun, cheap oven thermometer, a painting respiratory, and MEK. Anodizing is perfectly fine to coat over. Thoroughly clean the lower with brake cleaner to remove oil, heat the receiver up with the heat gun and spray a light coating of moly resin on. Keep on heating the receiver and spray light coats. The moly resin will flash and not leave any runs. Preheat your oven to 300F and use the thermometer to confirm the temperature is correct. Bake it for 1 hour and you’re done. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/29/2020 8:18:57 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A source for pre-heating the parts and then the eventual 1hr at 300 degrees. My first ones I did in the oven in my house. It was a pain to run back and forth from the house to the garage for the preheat part and then stunk up the house during the final cure. Later on I bought a toaster oven off of CL. It works though it would be nice if it were bigger. But it only cost me $10 so there's that. The upside to applying the MolyResin, is that if you feel like you didn't do a good job applying it you can always strip it off easily with MEK and start over .... before curing of course. I also used my home oven, but noticed only minimal odor. Even my wife didn’t think it was that bad. I also heated my parts to the full 300 degrees before spraying. They stayed hot from the oven to the garage. The solvents in the resin flashed off instantly and I was able to spray several light coats quickly. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/29/2020 10:32:11 AM EDT
[#26]
Wow, thanks for all of the replies guys, great info and very helpful!
I'm going to go for it. I was thinking I may just pick up an inexpensive toaster oven as a way to keep from curing in the house. I'll have to spray outside anyway so with a toaster oven I'll be able to bring it outside to pre-heat the lower, continue to maintain that heat, and then ultimately cure the lower. I'm thinking of doing some other Molyresin projects too so it won't be a one time use. Is there any issue applying new Molyresin over an previously cured part? I have a coated rifle that I have verified is done in Molyresin. I may go for a camo job on that one if I find that I like this process as much as I think that I will. The touch up section on the site seems to indicate that it should work but I'm just wondering if there is a difference between touching up a small area and putting a new coat(s) over a large portion of the surface. The underlined section below is what has me wondering. Touch Ups Moly Resin may be applied over an existing cured Moly Resin finish for a touch up. Cured parts with an unfortunate "slipped screw driver scratch", for example or other marks can be touched up with the airbrush and the part re-cured. Take the damaged part, wipe it clean of solvents and adjust the airbrush nozzle to spray a tiny small mist of coating and then lightly touch up the scratch to blend it out. Then re-cure the part at 300 degrees. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/29/2020 11:13:24 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, it actually won't. The active ingredient in oven cleaner is sodium hydroxide. The only thing I know of that reliably removes it after curing is abrasive blasting. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If need be, you can use OFF oven cleaner to strip it if needed after curing. (If OFF can strip anodizing it’ll strip moly resin) No, it actually won't. The active ingredient in oven cleaner is sodium hydroxide. From the Norrells website: Fluid Resistance Moly Resin™ will meet 24 hour emersion requirements in the following fluids: aviation gasoline, hydraulic fluid, jet fuel, lubricating oils, paint removers, trichlorethylene, nitric, sulphuric and hydrochloric acids, hydrogen peroxide, gun powder solvents, strong bases such as ammonium and sodium hydroxide, and numerous other strong chemicals. The only thing I know of that reliably removes it after curing is abrasive blasting. Yes it will, I’ve done it before (OFF removing anodizing) |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/29/2020 1:04:52 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wow, thanks for all of the replies guys, great info and very helpful! I'm going to go for it. I was thinking I may just pick up an inexpensive toaster oven as a way to keep from curing in the house. I'll have to spray outside anyway so with a toaster oven I'll be able to bring it outside to pre-heat the lower, continue to maintain that heat, and then ultimately cure the lower. I'm thinking of doing some other Molyresin projects too so it won't be a one time use. Is there any issue applying new Molyresin over an previously cured part? I have a coated rifle that I have verified is done in Molyresin. I may go for a camo job on that one if I find that I like this process as much as I think that I will. The touch up section on the site seems to indicate that it should work but I'm just wondering if there is a difference between touching up a small area and putting a new coat(s) over a large portion of the surface. The underlined section below is what has me wondering. No issues with applying moly resin over a part that's been coated and cured with moly resin. The only thing I can think of to be aware of is the color tone and texture may be different. I noticed if you apply multiple thin coats of moly resin, the finish is flat and it feels like a high grit sandpaper. If you put a thicker coat on, the finish looks a bit shiny and is a smoother. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/29/2020 1:34:30 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes it will, I’ve done it before (OFF removing anodizing) Re-read my post. I never said sodium hydroxide wouldn't remove anodizing. Most people that work with the stuff know sodium hydroxide will strip anodized aluminum. Just because sodium hydroxide will strip anodizing doesn't mean it will strip Molyresin. It's apples and oranges... |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/12/2020 12:56:42 PM EDT
[#30]
seriously chris. you know I do moly work.
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
