In this thread, post what loctite or similar product you use and the locations you use it. And if you have had any experience that led you to use that product at that location on your rifle.

Keep it simple and clean please.

Thanks.

I use the medium loctite and I do the a2 stock screw, grip screw and if I need to use for any bu is.
If i had clamp on gas block,  I would use it there too.

If using the GI stock and grip screws (with nylon inserts), I don't use anything extra.  Those are about the only places I could see myself using thread locker on an AR build.  Others will have differing opinions...

Before the application of anything listed below, everything is thoroughly degreased with CRC Brakleen in the clean green can or hot soapy water.

Loctite red 263 on gas block screws.

Loctite blue 243 on stock screws (only if they don't have the Nylok patch. If a Nylok patch is present Slip 2000 EWG is applied).

Loctite blue 243 for scope mount/screws and BUIS mount screws.

Loctite blue 243 for rail/handguard screws.

Loctite blue 243 for any rail mounted accessory.

TS-70 moly paste for upper receiver threads/barrel nut.

TS-70 moly paste for receiver extension threads/castle nut.

TS-70 moly paste for muzzle device threads (unless otherwise specified).

TS-70 moly paste for gas key screws.

Slip 2000 EWG for pistol grip screws.

Slip 2000 EWG for the break in of take down and pivot pin detents.

Slip 2000 EWG for the break in of safety selector detents.

A tiny drop of blue on scope mount screws.  Not needed anywhere else.

I don't use any locktite on any of my AR's. The proper amount of torque should keep everything tight. I have been considering some type of sleeve fitting locktite to tighten the barrel to receiver fit and possibly underneath the gas block the prevent any leakage if it was a loose fit.

I have never had any parts on an ar15 wiggle loose.  granted, I don't shoot tens of thousands of rounds..  I would however in future builds put some on gas block screws. I would also use some ROCKSETT on the muzzle device.

Small drop on the castle nut, other than that, the rest of the stuff is just tightened down properly and I have never had a problem, if you tighten the muzzle device correctly, it is not coming off due to use, use cupped screws on the gas block then they won't come loose.

Loctite 609 to bed the barrel into receiver and stainless shims if necessary.

I put a drop of red on gas block screws.
Also use a little blue on flashlight mount and optic to mount screws. Buis have never wiggled free on me and i stake castle nuts.

Well for those who don't Loctite (and those that do) you'd be well advised to get a paint pen and mark the fastener, you can tell at a glance if it has moved or not.

Witness marks on torqued fasteners are always a plus!

This. I have used loc-tite, provided by the OEM on screws that hold a free float hand guard onto the barrel nut. Only because it was provided by them. Other than that, I don't use any.

I use common blue threadlocker on all threaded AR-15 parts prone to loosening.  The only exceptions are the gas key and the screws that hold it, where I use a high-temp, permanent sealant.  I got it at an auto parts store, formulated to seal iron cylinders inside aluminum engine blocks. - CW