It’s all 30-06. What else can you tell me about them? Doesn’t appear they have been reloaded. I took them in on a trade.

Here’s one of each kind that I got.
This one is obviously black tip AP.
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Tracer
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Incendiary?
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All of the headstamps posted have corrosive primers. That LC AP round almost looks like the primer is new.

Concur. And, the LC round is a reload.

The tracer round has a non-standard primer crimp indicating it was from lend-lease production for England. Extra heavy crimp for aircraft MG use. Don't expect them to trace after all these years.

Thanks guys. Do you think the incendiary would go off still?

Probably but who knows till you try.

Really? I have seen these types of cases turn up from time to time. I always wondered why they had a different style crimp?

Can they be reloaded after the crimp is swaged or reamed out?

Once you get the crimp out of the way, yes, those cases can be reloaded.

I’ll bet the primers will be tough to punch out, but once you get ‘em out, those cases are fine for reloading.

I just got done doing 250 cases I got from Bison Brass & there were 3 of those in my bag & both broke the pin, 1st time I put it down to shit happens, 2nd one I decided I better watch it on those as I'd ordered 3 replacements after I broke the 1st so was now down to 1 spare after I put the 2nd new one it.  When I found the 3rd & last one I decided I'd run it through the collet neck sizer die just to see, sure as shit it broke it.  

I don't know if you remove all that crimping, it looks like the crimp has a crimp, if a regular Large Primer would seat?  When you look at them next to a regular pocket the width of the base from the edge of the primer cup to the edge of the case is much narrower.


ETA: My headstamps say U.S.C. CO.  & IA with a star on each side between those.

That RA 40 case will be VERY challenging; it's essentially a double crimp.

U.S.C. CO is United States Cartridge Company, an old firm that became Winchester (ammunition), later folded into Olin...  And their production - under their USC Co headstamp - would have been very early stuff.  No telling what sort of crimp they used, but older brass can be a real bear to deprime with crimped primers.

The other may be Independence Ammunition, but their headstamp is "*I*", no A involved...

Thanks for the info.  Since there were only 3 in a bag of 250+ I'm not going to bother with them.  I also got 2 308 Win & 1 300 Win mag piece in the bag.

The "IA" is actually an "18". This is a WWI .30-06 made in 1918.

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The asterisks in the headstamp indicate a particular draw process used in making the cases. The extra crimping was for use in aircraft machine guns.

Yeah, that's what mine look like, but a bit more worn around the edge so you can't see the bottom of the "8".  Plus my eyes ain't what they used to be.

Why would that be a problem? Corrosive primers will not hurt your firearm. As long as you clean it after shooting them there's nothing to be concerned about. I've shot tons of WWII M2 and M2 AP from my M1s for many year and have found it to be a non issue.

Longish, but on the side-subject...

Some people like to avoid corrosive primed rounds.  Considering that some of my oldest firearms “grew up” on corrosive-primed ammo, I’m not that picky about it.

Cleaning up after firing corrosive-primed ammunition simply takes an extra step; dissolving the salts that form when the primer compound fires.  There’s a technique from the “old ‘03” days that works great with bolt guns: stick the muzzle in a bucket of hot, soapy water, and shove a tight patch down the bore, then “pump” the water up into the barrel and eventually into the chamber and action.

That’s more work than I like, so I go in the other direction - I tightly wrap the muzzle in a plastic bag and pour soapy water down from the chamber.  I let it sit for a couple of minutes, then with a “less than tight” patch soaked in soapy water I swab the barrel out good.

“But what about rust from all that water?”  Rubbing alcohol goes in after the water, on a soaked patch.  No rust.  After the scrubbing, I go through the normal solvent-based cleaning process.

It works the same with gas operated guns, but you have to take the gas system apart and clean those parts too.  On a Garand, you can do a fine job by just running that soapy water down in the gas cylinder with the muzzle down.  It’s easier on AKs (for which there is still plenty of corrosive ammo out there) - just take the gas tube off and wash it.

So anyway, it IS a good idea to know if your ammunition has corrosive primers, but only so you can take that extra step to wash out and neutralize the salts.

I concur 100%.

Corrosive priming is a factor to be aware of, and to be prepared to mitigate, but no “problem” per se.

If you’re not willing to spend the extra 10 minutes it takes to clean up after firing corrosive primed ammunition, don’t do it.

Side note: Chrome lined parts won’t magically eliminate the need for cleaning.  Even that chrome-lined AK NEEDS to be cleaned after you fire the old nasty surplus stuff.  The barrel and piston won’t have a problem.  But the gas block and tube, the bolt, and the receiver could easily have a problem if you don’t clean it thoroughly.

Although it varies by which arsenal loaded the ammo, the year 1953 is when all service ammo went non-corrosive on the primers. Whether it was mid-year I can’t remember. So using 1954 head stamp dates and newer will eliminate any doubt. There is some national match ammo that is reported corrosive for a year or two after that.

Concerning.30-06 ammo there is a good guide at ammogarand.com . The CMP also has a pamphlet that lists non corrosive ammo manufactured by date and arsenal.