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Posted: 9/13/2018 6:46:39 PM EDT
Attached File
Tried shooting it for the first time today...after each round, I had to manually extract the casing. Sometimes it was pretty tough to get them out. I don’t believe the BCG is even cycling. 2 different types of factory ammo (Hornady & Federal). I have no idea if it’s related, but I noticed all the casings have a noticeable scratch in the same place: Attached File It’s a build that the previous owner never fired; has all AP parts, black nitride BCG, and heavy buffer installed. Bolt has 3 gas rings on it. I really don’t know a lot about .308 AR’s. Thanks! |
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[#1]
What kind of gas block? Is it adjustable? Can you see the gas tube?
If the BCG isn't moving AT ALL it could be the gas tube was accidently put in upside down... I've seen that before. |
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[#2]
I'm far from the best one to answer this... so I'll be curious to see what the pro's say..
The extraction issue like the there is an issue with the extractor, the extractor spring.. I'd take a close look at the extractor and then break the BCG apart... although... that scratch on the front of the casing might be a defect in the barrel or something in the barrel that the rounds may be catching on. If the casing is getting hung up and the extractor can't pull it out that might be the problem. That's a BIG problem, if the round is not seating correctly and there is some sort of impingement that may cause gas to escape around the round and back into the rifle. That could lead to a catastrophic failure. You may want to check out the rim of the rounds for scratching and the primer for loosening. |
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[#3]
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[#4]
my guess to the scratching is the brass being scraped by the barrel extension lug. how many rounds did you shoot though? ive had ars with all new parts take maybe 20 rounds before things start to loosen up.
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[#5]
Quoted:
What kind of gas block? Is it adjustable? Can you see the gas tube? If the BCG isn't moving AT ALL it could be the gas tube was accidently put in upside down... I've seen that before. View Quote Attached File |
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[#6]
Quoted: Pic of gas tube: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/62477/243679B7-6886-473E-BA14-3EBB14EE6B02-670709.JPG View Quote |
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[#7]
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[#9]
Yep! Others already said it. Based on that pic the gas tube is upside down.
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[#10]
Lol... first time I have seen that !
Good catch @Bowhntr6pt At least it is an easy fix. |
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[#12]
Thanks guys....how does that impact gas reaching the BCG? I never would’ve guessed the tube orientation would be so critical.
Just to be sure, when everyone is saying “upside-down”, does that simply mean the tube needs to rotate 180 degrees, or does it need to flipped around so the end by the receiver flips to the muzzle side? And how do I go about correcting it? Like I said my AR10 knowledge is about nil |
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[#13]
Quoted:
Thanks guys....how does that impact gas reaching the BCG? I never would’ve guessed the tube orientation would be so critical. Just to be sure, when everyone is saying “upside-down”, does that simply mean the tube needs to rotate 180 degrees, or does it need to flipped around so the end by the receiver flips to the muzzle side? And how do I go about correcting it? Like I said my AR10 knowledge is about nil View Quote eta: How it impacts the gas flow is that the hole in the gas tube does not align with the hole in the gas block when it's upside down. |
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[#15]
Am I the only one who can't wait for an update on this thread?
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[#17]
Not yet; really busy this weekend...tomorrow afternoon hopefully
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[#19]
Without trying to sound like a jerk... if whomever assembled it put the gas tube in upside down... I sure as heck would double check the rest of the build.
They may have just had a "Dooh" moment, but.... |
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[#20]
Id probably replace the whole tube, its bent so it'll fit into the lower and that will either be a pain to re-assemble correct or at least be aesthetically a minor issue. But flipping right side up will definitely fix the problem.
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[#22]
My stupid punch set is all tapered so I couldn’t get the roll pin out
Will have to continue....after I get new punches...and possibly a new gas tube |
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[#23]
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[#25]
Quoted:
Id probably replace the whole tube, its bent so it'll fit into the lower and that will either be a pain to re-assemble correct or at least be aesthetically a minor issue. But flipping right side up will definitely fix the problem. View Quote |
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[#26]
At this point, I would also check the gas key on the bcg to make sure it's not mangled from banging against a misaligned tube.
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[#27]
Quoted:
At this point, I would also check the gas key on the bcg to make sure it's not mangled from banging against a misaligned tube. View Quote |
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[#28]
Attached File
Just when I thought I had seen it all.......... That rifle absolutely should NOT cycle the BCG when fired. If it did, something would be wrong with the world. I've seen plenty of gas tubes installed backwards, but never upside-down. |
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[#29]
I'd bet that either alcohol was present during assembly, or, the workshop is very dimly lit. visualizing: 15w lightbulb dangling from a cord...
or, talking on the cell phone while installing gas tube. |
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[#33]
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[#34]
Quoted:
That roll pin will simply not budge. View Quote loosen and remove muzzle device; loosen set screws on gas block; pull gas block and gas tube assembly off the barrel. inspect the gas block though the set screw hole to see if gas tube is installed upside down (blocked). |
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[#35]
Quoted: Yup: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/62477/image-687607.JPG That roll pin will simply not budge. View Quote |
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[#36]
Quoted:
Yup: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/62477/image-687607.JPG That roll pin will simply not budge. View Quote |
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[#38]
It's possible there's so much tension on the gas tube being bent upward like that, that the pin has too much pressure against it holding it in place.
Maybe back off the gas block screws, tap it off the barrel, and see if freeing it from that tension helps? or just dremel and a cutoff wheel CAREFULLY cut thru the gas tube and see if that helps. ETA: Get a proper roll pin punch as well. |
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[#39]
Thanks for the offers guys! I might just do that....but the seller offered to buy it back due to the issues. He didn’t build it, someone else did...but it was sold at a silent auction for charity so I feel kinda bad. I got everything in the top picture for $1150, minus the sling/bipod/foregrip.
Good enough deal that it’s worth keeping it and working the bugs out? |
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[#40]
It should cost you $20 to fix it. Why would you return it over that? Buy another tube, buy a proper roll pin punch, and take the 5 minutes to fix it.
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[#41]
Quoted:
Thanks for the offers guys! I might just do that....but the seller offered to buy it back due to the issues. He didn’t build it, someone else did...but it was sold at a silent auction for charity so I feel kinda bad. I got everything in the top picture for $1150, minus the sling/bipod/foregrip. Good enough deal that it’s worth keeping it and working the bugs out? View Quote The GB and gas tube would be a very cheap and easy fix. |
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[#42]
Dremel cut that gas block 98% thru to barrel then use a screw driver to crack it off.
Then new (Adjustable) gas block and gas tube |
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[#43]
Might as well check the torque on the barrel nut while you have it apart. Who know what else he assembled wrong before you got it.
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[#44]
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[#45]
You need better punches. I've bent tons on the gas tube.
Got some punches from Germany, Rein something or another. Been good for a few years now. Keep the rifle, get some better punches, a small ball peen hammer and you'll be good to go. You won't need a new gas block, it's not kinked. I doubt there is any damage to the portion going to the gas key. |
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[#46]
I purchased cheap US punches from HomeDepot and they're not tempered, my 1/16" looks similar. Junk. My Chinese Wheeler punches are trash also, but they're tempered and do not bend easily.
Trash your gas tube. Buy a single high quality 1/16" punch. You should also spend the money on a premium gas tube. I use Colt Defense, many commercial tubes are trash. can use cheaper punches for the larger ones if you have to. Inspect your BCG for damage. It looks like your barrel may have an issue use chamber guages to check specs. Go/NoGo. If everything checks out reinstall new gas tube and lube. Function check and you should be good to go. |
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[#48]
Quoted:
... Roll pin starters: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61AArEcltOL._SL1500_.jpg Roll pin punches (note the nipple which goes in the hole to support the interior diameter, while the punch drives the pin): https://media.mwstatic.com/product-images/880x660/Primary/191/191653.jpg Get a set of both. Using the wrong tool for the job is no reason to get pissed when the tool fails. View Quote |
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[#49]
I've never used roll pin punches and I've never ruined a split pin or roll pin? Split pins and roll pins are cheap and should be replaced after they've been installed and removed for the most part. If these punches help you get the job done, then wonderful. But saying they are a requirement is absurd. I use a surgical clamp to start pins, and hold small parts during assembly.
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[#50]
Quoted:
Anyone telling you to use regular punches on a roll pin is a retard. Roll pin starters: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61AArEcltOL._SL1500_.jpg Roll pin punches (note the nipple which goes in the hole to support the interior diameter, while the punch drives the pin): https://media.mwstatic.com/product-images/880x660/Primary/191/191653.jpg Get a set of both. Using the wrong tool for the job is no reason to get pissed when the tool fails. View Quote The holders do though. These are what I got. They have held up great. I also got the Gracie I think, starter punches, and the small ones peened over like nothing. Didnt think I was hitting it hard enough to do that, but it did. AND didnt damage the roll pin at all, just the punch. I havent sent the back to Gracie yet, but they will replace them. |
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