User Panel
Posted: 7/19/2022 2:42:55 PM EDT
How “wet” do you guys run your guns? Have you noticed a difference in different calibers and what they prefer oil wise?
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[#1]
On the range I run sopping wet with CLP.
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[#2]
Visibly damp, but not drooling wet.
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[#3]
LARRY VICKERS YT
Not quite as much as Larry. New or dirty guns get more lube. Add as you go. A dry AR will cause failures. |
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[Last Edit: dfariswheel]
[#4]
It's hard to over lubricate an AR......Whatever it doesn't need will simply get blown out.
Since most lubes will run off or evaporate-dry out, how wet it is depends on how long it's been since you lubed it. Like beauty in the eye of a beholder, how wet is wet depends on who's lubing it. |
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[Last Edit: Taskmaster86]
[#5]
Any high temp oil will work really, the caliber is not relevant.
Just run them visibly wet but not dripping. If you do run them dripping wet, the oil will get blown off and usually ends up on your forearms and face. If the BCG looks dry, just relube so it looks wet and shiny again. My favorite oils are Corrosion-X, G96 synthetic CLP and Weaponshield. I am currently testing Blaster Multi-Max synthetic lubricant and it might be my new go-to because it is so cheap and lubricates almost as well as the more expensive stuff. |
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[#6]
I lubricate gun oil on some points in the AR-15 and then red and tacky lithium grease on a number of other points.
Oil in BCG, trigger group. Red Lithium grease (light dab) on charging handle and the portion of the BCG that runs as a rail in the upper. Buffer and spring. Super light coating of the grease, but where I place it, it pretty much stays and doesn't dry out. Doesn't carbon foul any more than just rem oil alone and it's pretty easy to clean. Cost is pretty low for a tube that'll last for decades. |
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[#7]
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[#8]
Originally Posted By Jdavid2336: How “wet” do you guys run your guns? Have you noticed a difference in different calibers and what they prefer oil wise? View Quote For AR's overdo it... make it like a girl on the front row of an Elvis concert in the 1960's |
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[#9]
I saw a funny youtube video where the guy used so much lube it would blow your mind. The entire BCG was covered in grease. Most of the excess just blew out during fire and there were no issues. Ultimately what I took away from that was you can go overboard and you'll be wasting lube and making a mess (in your eyes/face), but that might be better than not enough which tends to cause malfunctions especially in shorter gas systems where the lube burns off faster.
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[#10]
I use a mix of Mobil 1 synthetic oil and the Mobil synthetic grease (the red stuff) that Chad over at "School of the American Rifle" YT channel uses. Mix it to consistency of honey. I run my AR's on the wet side and zero issues. Super cheap lube (for the amount you get for the price compared to those expensive fancy "gun lubes") and it works really really well.
As for too much lube, you can't over lube an AR. At worst, you'll just get messy, but there is no danger as some claim. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9bOT_d60LM |
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[#11]
Amsoil 10w40
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[#12]
I will add my $.02 worth.
What we teach in Armorer courses is that guns need lubed to reduce friction and protect from rust. So anything that is steel needs a lubricant with a rust inhibitor. A generic way to approach looking for friction, is to look at a firearm that has some rounds through it, and you can often times see where the metal has rubbed metal, and that would be a good indicator of where it needs lubricant to reduce friction. On the AR15/M16/AR308 charging handle, most are made of aluminum, which means rust is not an issue, but on a used charging handle you often times see friction rubbing on the sides and top along its length, which is where it needs a light coat of lubrication for daily use, and heavier when doing training where you will be doing lots malfunction clearance drills and reloads. On the AR15 / M16 / AR308 Bolt carrier assembly, everything is made of steel, which means it could rust, so it needs a rust inhibitor. If you look at the bolt carrier as if you are behind the gun shooting it, so that the carrier key (gas key) is at 12:00, you will see that the carrier has raised rails at 2:00, 4:00, 8:00, and 10:00, and this is what the carrier rides on inside the upper receiver. There is a large flat on the bottom of the bolt carrier at 6:00, which is where the carrier rubs the face of the hammer is the bolt carrier moves rearward when cocking the hammer. If you insert just the bolt carrier (No bolt, cam pin, firing pin or retaining pin) into the upper receiver by itself, you will see that it freely moves back and forth inside the upper receiver, and actually is loose enough that it rattles slightly if you add a little slight rotation both directions as you push/pull the carrier in/out of the upper receiver, this shows that the carrier actually free floats in a sense, so it only needs a very minimal amount of lubrication as there isn't a whole lot of friction. Now assemble the entire bolt carrier assembly, and slowly insert it into the upper receiver, doing the same slight rotation test as mentioned above, as you insert it into the upper receiver, and you will see that it has the same free float looseness is it travels into the upper receiver, right up to the last about 3/8" of forward travel, which is where you get a large amount of friction as the bolt rotates and locks into battery with the barrel extension lugs. As you slowly pull the bolt carrier assembly rearward, you will also see that the first 3/8" of rearward movement you will have lots of friction, which is caused by the bolt carriers rearward movement that pulls the bolt rearward causing the bolt to rotate clockwise during its unlocking from the barrel extension lugs. Then if you look at a bolt that has quite a few rounds through it, you will see rub marks on the front of the bolt lugs, and rubs marks on the back and sides of the bolt lugs. The rub marks on the front of the bolt lugs happens during the locking cycle, where the bolt lugs have traveled through the barrel extension lugs, and the front of the bolt lugs then engage the threaded pinned barrel, at which time the bolt gets pushed reward into the moving forward bolt carrier, and the cam pin rotates to the left side in the bolt carrier cam track, and the bolt then rubs against the back end of the barrel, this is the friction that happens during the locking into battery cycle of operation of the firearm. The rubbing on the back and sides of the bolt lugs happens during the unlocking cycle. As the bolt carrier is pushed rearward from gas pressure on a gas gun, or a piston rod pushing it rearward on a piston gun, the bolt carrier as it moves rearward will pull the bolt rearward away from the barrel extension lugs. When this happens, the cam pin will rotate to the right in the cam track of the bolt carrier, which causes the bolt to rotate clockwise as its pulled rearward away from the barrel extension lugs, this is where the most friction happens, and where the lubrication is needed to make the firearm run reliably. So taking that into account, the entire bolt carrier needs a light lubrication on all parts so it is glistening like a glazed donut for rust protection. For friction I would suggest putting a drop or two on the rails of the bolt carrier, and then the 7 bolt lugs. What we teach in Armorer courses is that each bolt lug needs its own drop of lube for daily carry, so 7 lugs = 7 drops, and if you are going to purposely shoot lots of rounds for training then soak each lug so it is dripping as you cannot get them wet enough. Think of lubrication like a boat trailer, if you are going to drag that boat trailer 5 hours across a state to go to a particular lake, then you should probably lubricate the hubs before you go, the same thinking I like to apply to a firearm where I know that I am purposely going to shoot 500 or more rounds through on a range session then I will heavily lubricate the friction areas. As for what lubrication to use, that is personal preference, but I would recommend using something that is made to use on firearms, and be very careful of using things that are not made for firearm usage so you don't cause damage to things like metal finishes and treatments. My personal preference is Slip2000 "EWL" Extreme Weapons Lube, as it doesn't burn off when doing high round count shooting which is great as it reduces friction so we don't see malfunctions happening due to friction, and at the end of the training session the gun is dirty but the "EWL" hasn't burnt off so the fouling is kind of like soot which makes cleaning very easy. It also works well in extreme cold weather. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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[#13]
I’m considering running diesel oil in mine. I live in the AZ desert, I assume 15W-40 will be fine and not too runny?
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[#14]
Enough lube to ride CH all the way in and still have the bolt slide home.
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[#15]
Combination of CLP and Cherrybalmz/SnakeOil.
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[Last Edit: EmbraceTheSuck]
[#16]
I bring my Break free CLP and keep her moist at the range, never have an issue.
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[Last Edit: stickyheat]
[#17]
Use anything you like so long as you keep it wet. I use royco CLP. Seems to stay put and not burn off but it does smell like shit.
G96 smells better and performs almost as well. I’m using that when I run out of royco. Really wish they still made weaponshield. That was some good shit. |
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[#18]
Visibly wet but not dripping.
Mobil 1 0w20 |
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[#19]
No problem running wet with CLP. I do have Cherry Balmz also..................
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We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm.
I will die for the USA. But, I'd rather kill for her---DeathHates |
[#20]
I have always lubricated my AR/M16 in accordance with TM 9-1005-319-10 or TM 9-1005-249-10.
Never have a problem in cold weather, dust, sand, or pollen I have not seen the necessity of having it dripping wet. |
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[#21]
very wet, doesnt hurt. slip ewl for me.
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[#22]
Originally Posted By dfariswheel: It's hard to over lubricate an AR......Whatever it doesn't need will simply get blown out. Since most lubes will run off or evaporate-dry out, how wet it is depends on how long it's been since you lubed it. Like beauty in the eye of a beholder, how wet is wet depends on who's lubing it. View Quote I don't mind getting some oil on me or my clothes. I get a shower, the clothes go in the washing machine. The oil (Mobil 1) the AR15 doesn't use gets blown out/wiped off. |
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How you live your life is important. Just be sure the memory of how you died doesn't overshadow the tales of how you lived your life.
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[#23]
I use a healthy coating of either alg go juice thin grease or slip 2000 grease on carrier rails, bolt lugs, a good coating on the gas rings , then I shoot some down in the cam pin groove after I assemble the bcg, then shoot a bit into the exhaust ports into the gas chamber.
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[#24]
"It's hard to over lubricate an AR......Whatever it doesn't need will simply get blown out."
Truth! |
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[#25]
how thick of motor oil are you guys using? I've seen a variety of weights listed.
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I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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[#26]
Originally Posted By stickyheat: Use anything you like so long as you keep it wet. Really wish they still made weaponshield. That was some good shit. View Quote I'm not sure what ever happened to weaponshield. it just kind of disappeared over the last year or so. The good news there is some remaining stock still out there if you look. https://wattstruckcenter.com/shop/weapon-shield-16oz-bottle-with-spray-top?search=weapon |
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[#27]
I run my sticks with a visible coat of CLP on the BCG unless operating in a desert environment, then I run it a little dryer.
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[#28]
My biggest takeaway from lube threads, is that it doesnt matter that much what you lube with or how you lube it, as long as you use some of something to lube it and get lube on the moving parts.
Almost all of us report using different lubes, different methods of applying, etc. In the real world, all of our guns are running fine, or we would change what we were doing ASAP. Since we are all sharing how we do it, for me, I run nitride BCGs, lubed relatively lightly per what I think is instruction drawings from a military training manual (basically a little, not a lot, on all the moving parts and wear points). I have at various times and circumstances over the years, used one or more of CLP, remoil, motor oil, gunslick oil, I even used chainsaw bar oil a time or two. Never once had a lube (or lack of) related failure. I'm sure some lubes really are better than others. But as far as I can tell, they are almost all adequate. |
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[#29]
Petroleum based liquids work every time.
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[#30]
Mobil 1 0w-20 syn
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[#31]
Originally Posted By Piledriver2235: Visibly wet but not dripping. Mobil 1 0w20 View Quote This. And I clean with a mix of 67% mineral spirits & 33% Dextron ATF. I measure this precisely in graduated cylinders. Seriously, I just kinda eyeball it. This is my very simplified version of Ed's Red. |
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[#32]
At my club I am one of the guys that folks come looking for when their AR is not running well.
Never once have I seen a AR messing up because somebody used the wrong oil or lube. Any problem gun has been bone dry. More than once I have saved the day by pulling the dipstick on my car or truck and using that oil to wet down the bolt assembly. In normal use I generally use Breakfree CLP because it has always worked well for me and I find it handy to use one product to clean , lube and protect . Other products will work well also , pick something and use it before the gun gets dry! |
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[#33]
I use CLP and have for quite a while. I also use a little grease on the rails, etc.
Just for curiosity though, has anyone used the old LSA oil in the squeeze bottle? I have a few of these, mostly as collectables from an earlier era. Is this stuff the forerunner of modern CLP products? It does smell nice. |
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[#34]
I fill my AR up with straight 20weight Mobil 1.
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[#35]
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[#36]
I run soaking wet with CLP, enough that it oozes out and splatters on my glasses the first couple shots.
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