User Panel
Posted: 4/29/2022 6:22:26 AM EDT
Lubrication of the BCG.
Have to believe this has been beat to death in the past but I couldn’t find anything specific and new products and technology march on. Grease or oil for the BCG? Whats the latest greatest consensus? |
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If it gets shot often I say oil type of product is great but I do use a little light grease on the slide rails. I use ewl grease on the rails for anything that might sit upright for a while or on chrome or coated bcg but use oil products on most other parts.
I do have some tw25 white grease that works great as well especially in colder climates but I over think things and never had a problem with any one of my lubes. Very limited testing on my part FWIW Edit Get both |
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if you don’t like carbon building use on the bolt behind the gas rings apply grease to this area and the carbon will wipe off easily when cleaning eliminating the need to scrape the carbon off. fyi hard carbon in this area does not affect functioning but if you like to maintain clean parts this is a good tip.
additionally a small light coat of grease on the rim of the firing pin where it contacts the back of the bolt prevents a hard carbon ring from forming. my .02 |
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I grease the rails, lube the bolt.
Or I just mobil-1 the whole thing, depends where I am. Truth be told, I don't see a lot if difference in most lubes, except a pox upon FrogLube. |
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I use Mobil 1.
It hasn't failed me yet, so see no reason to change. It's cheap. |
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When I thoroughly clean one, like a full disassemble and clean, I grease the rails on re-assembly and lube the rest with oil. Add oil as needed. Having said; full cleanings are few and far between
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I get great results with Superlube grease on the bolt, bcg and the interfacing parts in the upper receiver. Also a tiny dab on the trigger sear area. Everything else gets a drop of oil like pins/ safty/ etc
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Quoted: I grease the rails, lube the bolt. Or I just mobil-1 the whole thing, depends where I am. Truth be told, I don't see a lot if difference in most lubes, except a pox upon FrogLube. View Quote Man, FrogLube angers many folks! Never tried it and likely won’t! No way it can be worse than all the shitty products TC has made over the years for muzzleloaders…. |
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I make a custom mix of Superlube NLGI #2 grease and Superlube oil to get around applesauce, NLGI #00 ish consistency. A bit thicker than CherryBalmz, which is a really good quality lube as well. I use that mix for everything save the fire control group, where I'll give the safety and trigger group a few drops after or between cleanings (shooting suppressed, your safety can start to lock up on a dirty gun if lube isn't applied occasionally). Application areas would be the same as oil -- a smear around the bolt contact ring, butter up the rails, a good dab into the cam pin hole and work it in, contact side of the cam pin, light at the rear edge of lugs, residue on the fingers enough for the gas rings.
Depending on the particular base and additive package, you can get away with straight NLGI #2 grease (the most common thickness/consistency you'll find commercially) in most warmer climates, but it will start to become an issue in colder weather. Going down to at least an NLGI #0 or thinner will extend the cold-weather function while retaining the benefits of grease -- and the same can be accomplished by cutting in a compatible oil and whipping it until you get a uniform consistency. My preference is 100% grease over oil, but either will work. |
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I use Mobil1 bearing it had a pinkish color so when it turns a sludgy black I know it is time to wipe off and apply fresh. It does not run off down into the receiver extension or down the bore and weep out between the receivers like oil attracting dust dirt and debris to stick to the rifle. I shot in an environment with dust and windy all the time so it tends to glue to my rifle when I use oil…
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I apply Mobil 10W30 Synthetic VERY liberally. Rifle gets a thorough cleaning after every shooting session. Works well for me.
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I grease the slide rails pretty liberally after every cleaning, but use oil in between range trips.
Bought the Mobil1 grease, tried it, it worked well, but smelled like 200K differential oil. Now I use Lucas products and they work fine. |
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I have TW25 and the last couple years Ive been using cherry balmz. Cherry blamz works well and also doesn’t get funny with long term weapon storage, smells great too lol. I also have had no issues running Eezox clp with no additional lubricants but my range sessions are usually not more than 400 rounds normally. Cleanup is fairly quick and easy with Eezix as well
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Unfortunately, cherrybalmz 'Black Rifle' may be a thing of the past.
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Honestly, I used a bulk of the products out there. But what I used 70% of the time is good ole Breakfree CLP in the squeeze bottle. Yes there are stuff as good and maybe better. But BF CLP just works. Not the very best in anything. But decent for its intended use. Never had a weapon go down because I was using it. I use it exclusively on AR’s. I use the other brand lubes for other type weapons. I oil my bolts. Cheers WarDawg
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Quoted: I ordered some for the first time today, and on the site there is a message that they can't acquire their secret sauce to make much more. Marketing ploy? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Why is that? I ordered some for the first time today, and on the site there is a message that they can't acquire their secret sauce to make much more. Marketing ploy? Well, that's fucky. Personally, I don't use CB because -- firearms specific additive package or not -- it's honestly quite overpriced for what amounts to a lithium complex NLGI #00 grease. Nonetheless, I've tried it and it's unquestionably an excellent lubricant. |
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Quoted: Well, that's fucky. Personally, I don't use CB because -- firearms specific additive package or not -- it's honestly quite overpriced for what amounts to a lithium complex NLGI #00 grease. Nonetheless, I've tried it and it's unquestionably an excellent lubricant. View Quote I just wanted to see what the suppressed smell was like |
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I use Magnalube grease on all my firearms. Rarely do I bother with oil, and I don't go out of my way to buy any. Grease stays put longer and does a better job of keeping carbon in suspension.
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You're only wrong if your not lubing your rifle.
I myself use CLP though I have been trying Lucas Extreme Gun Oil. I don't expect to notice any change in performance but I also clean after each range trip. |
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I work for a chem company so I use our stuff but.basically one is a high temp high impact semi synthetic bearing grease. Rated for -25-500 degrees. Works well. Doesn’t run.
Some of my rifles that don’t get shot high volume I will use a dry lube with moly in it. |
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Quoted: I just wanted to see what the suppressed smell was like View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Well, that's fucky. Personally, I don't use CB because -- firearms specific additive package or not -- it's honestly quite overpriced for what amounts to a lithium complex NLGI #00 grease. Nonetheless, I've tried it and it's unquestionably an excellent lubricant. I just wanted to see what the suppressed smell was like It does smell kinda tasty, lol. Speaking of smells, truth be told, I don't particularly like that Superlube is loaded with PTFE and the potential hazard of breathing that if vaporized. I just have a bunch of it from back when PFTE was considered a normal additive in firearms lubricant -- that and it works extremely well. Maybe one day when I'm feeling motivated I'll try to find a better alternative. |
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Quoted: I just combed through the site pretty thoroughly and I can’t find anything about supply issues View Quote Okay... https://www.cherrybalmz.com/so/01O1tcMSf#/main |
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Quoted: I just combed through the site pretty thoroughly and I can’t find anything about supply issues View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I ordered some for the first time today, and on the site there is a message that they can't acquire their secret sauce to make much more. Marketing ploy? I just combed through the site pretty thoroughly and I can’t find anything about supply issues Attached File |
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Quoted: It does smell kinda tasty, lol. Speaking of smells, truth be told, I don't particularly like that Superlube is loaded with PTFE and the potential hazard of breathing that if vaporized. I just have a bunch of it from back when PFTE was considered a normal additive in firearms lubricant -- that and it works extremely well. Maybe one day when I'm feeling motivated I'll try to find a better alternative. View Quote Amsoil tastes like shit I stopped using motor oil right after I got back from my first range trip with my first can on an already overgassed DD MK18 upper, for similar reasons and concerns. |
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Quoted: If it gets shot often I say oil type of product is great but I do use a little light grease on the slide rails. I use ewl grease on the rails for anything that might sit upright for a while or on chrome or coated bcg but use oil products on most other parts. I do have some tw25 white grease that works great as well especially in colder climates but I over think things and never had a problem with any one of my lubes. Very limited testing on my part FWIW Edit Get both View Quote +1 for tw25b. mil-comm also makes another great lubricating oil mc2500. I also exclusively use their degreaser and bore cleaner. great products. |
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Grease works best in high load, low velocity applications. The higher the load the higher the recommended viscosity. The higher the velocity, the lower the recommended viscosity.
You really want a thin oil, somewhere around 10 to 20 cSt. |
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All of the above is basically defined as "As long as you use some form of lubrication, you are good."
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I like EWL30 for phosphate and chrome, and EWG grease for nitride and NIB.
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Quoted: That's it. Firearms are not very picky about the type of lube, as long as something remotely suitable is present. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: All of the above is basically defined as "As long as you use some form of lubrication, you are good." That's it. Firearms are not very picky about the type of lube, as long as something remotely suitable is present. That's true in most situations -- go to the range, shoot a few hundred rounds and clean it afterward, you'll likely never know the difference. However, when it comes to more extreme environments or extended periods without maintenance, shooting suppressed in higher volumes, etc. you will start to see differences. I've had certain types of grease that will turn into carbon glue after 1000rds suppressed and reapplication doesn't really improve the situation; some thinner oils that will cook off after 200-400rds, or lubes that will leave you with a gun that is locking up when it starts to cool after 500rds. There are definitely differences in performance. In my experience, the two best I've used are CherryBalmz and thinned-out NLGI #00ish Superlube. Neither turn into carbon glue nor cook-off, your gun won't start locking after a hard 500-600rds suppressed, and reapplication will generally let you keep shooting more or less indefinitely. At least, both will push past 3k suppressed without cleaning and continue with reliable function (that's not to say they won't go significantly higher). Maybe not a concern for most users, but it's fair to point out that many lubes won't do that. |
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Good ol stinky Ballistol for me.....1 product that does everything decent, but not great. Its non toxic on your skin and can use on small cuts etc. Probably makes a good meal too, not going to try that one though.
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Funny, i thought i was the only one who did this mix.
One big difference though. I mix superlube oil(2 parts) and lucas fuel injector cleaner (1 part) prior to mixing with the grease. Since you know what the stuff looks like when mixed, you'll understand why i named it "Money Shot". Quoted: I make a custom mix of Superlube NLGI #2 grease and Superlube oil to get around applesauce, NLGI #00 ish consistency. A bit thicker than CherryBalmz, which is a really good quality lube as well. I use that mix for everything save the fire control group, where I'll give the safety and trigger group a few drops after or between cleanings (shooting suppressed, your safety can start to lock up on a dirty gun if lube isn't applied occasionally). Application areas would be the same as oil -- a smear around the bolt contact ring, butter up the rails, a good dab into the cam pin hole and work it in, contact side of the cam pin, light at the rear edge of lugs, residue on the fingers enough for the gas rings. Depending on the particular base and additive package, you can get away with straight NLGI #2 grease (the most common thickness/consistency you'll find commercially) in most warmer climates, but it will start to become an issue in colder weather. Going down to at least an NLGI #0 or thinner will extend the cold-weather function while retaining the benefits of grease -- and the same can be accomplished by cutting in a compatible oil and whipping it until you get a uniform consistency. My preference is 100% grease over oil, but either will work. View Quote |
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Quoted: Funny, i thought i was the only one who did this mix. One big difference though. I mix superlube oil(2 parts) and lucas fuel injector cleaner (1 part) prior to mixing with the grease. Since you know what the stuff looks like when mixed, you'll understand why i named it "Money Shot". View Quote Haha... honestly hadn't thought about it, but once you see it you can't unsee it. I'm going to start telling people it's the latest in 100% all-natural, non-toxic, biodegradable gun lube -- "I made it myself!" Never tried the injector cleaner component; is that intended to make it sort of Superlube CLP light grease? |
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Quoted: I use Magnalube grease on all my firearms. Rarely do I bother with oil, and I don't go out of my way to buy any. Grease stays put longer and does a better job of keeping carbon in suspension. View Quote Yup, bought a can of it myself, like 15 years ago. I use it in syringe, with a 14 gauge needle (both off eBay). I put that S#it on a lot of stuff besides firearms. Just wish it was a little lighter. Doesn't say on the can, but may be a NLGI-2. Edit: Confirmed on their web site, #2 (Magnalube-G tech info) |
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I used whatever brand gun oil I had on hand back in 2010-2011 when friends and I would do Friday night shooting drills every Friday for a bit more than a year. We cleaned our guns after about a year of shooting. Rain, heat, dust, muddy conditions, etc. Even frost one time. My M4gery kept on working. I don't think anyone used grease of any kind. Mostly CLP or Rem oil.
People way, way overthink this. |
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normally I use synthetic oil
Debating trying this blend Home Brew AR Lube & AR Lubrication |
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Quoted: normally I use synthetic oil Debating trying this blend https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTpWfjVFfEU View Quote Per Foxtrot08: "By adding an engine oil, you’re over saturating the grease number first off. Which just leads to a slinging mess. Two, the detergents in the engine oil will break apart the grease, which leads to its further inability to protect as a grease. If you want a thinner grease, buy a fucking thinner grease." |
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I don't think lube selection is very important, providing you have lube.
I have used all sorts of products and have decided to go with the most economical options, Lubriplate Motor Assembly lube and/or Mobil 1 Full Synthetic motor oil. Any other full synthetic is likely to work just as well. If you want good smelling use Marvel Mystery Oil. G96 is a close second. A man on this forum tested a variety of oils in Alaska and ended up praising Marvel Mystery Oil over all others. I prefer not to shoot when it's below zero, but his findings remain stuck in my head. A cleaned and lubed firearm gives me a sense of security. The cost per ounce of "gun lubes and oils" is pretty ridiculous. I purchased a gallon of CLP a couple decades ago just to reduce that cost. I change the oil in my truck and buy 5 quart jugs of full-synthetic when they are on sale, some of that oil ends up on my bench for use in my firearms. |
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