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Posted: 12/1/2020 12:04:18 PM EDT
[#1]
Getting ready to change into someone more comfortable. Name changes coming.
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Posted: 12/1/2020 12:15:18 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted: So my friend bought this jig. It cut a gaping trigger slot. I dont think he used it wrong: the mill is the same size as follower dowels on router jig, and the slot on the jig us oversized compares to regular trigger slot. 5d emailed me a reply along the lines that its oversize so all triggers fit. Sounds like total nonsense. I considered making an oversized pair of dowel, but the slot is oversized by different amount width vs lengthwise, so the plan is to mill a pair of inserts for the jig with correct slot dimensions. I don’t remember how big the slot came out but it was ridiculous looking. Can anybody share your experience and if and how you corrected the issue? Pix would help |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 12:27:46 PM EDT
[#3]
I got the 5D jig on Haloween and this is my first lower I did with it. Using 5D's jig, their endmill, and their drill bits.
This is a Larue trigger. The hole seems like its the right size to me.  
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Posted: 12/1/2020 12:38:04 PM EDT
[#4]
No the slot is damn near the same size as jig guide.
I dont have pics sorry. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 12:39:09 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I got the 5D jig on Haloween and this is my first lower I did with it. Using 5D's jig, their endmill, and their drill bits. This is a Larue trigger. The hole seems like its the right size to me. https://iili.io/FPIdYJ.md.png https://iili.io/FPIJ2a.md.png Oh yeah, that looks perfect! Maybe your jig has diff dimensions. How wide is the slot on the jig? |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 12:42:34 PM EDT
[#6]
The 5d tactical jig comes with 3 different length guide pins. The short pins help you mill out everything down to the depth of the rear shelf. The medium pins are used to hog out all the rest of the material. And the last set, the long pins, are used to cut the trigger slot.
If you screw up and forget to swap in the longest guide pins when you do your final run that cuts the trigger slot, then you will end up with a huge square hole instead of a little slot. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 12:44:50 PM EDT
[#7]
Getting ready to change into someone more comfortable. Name changes coming.
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Posted: 12/1/2020 12:55:51 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you look at the max diameter on the Gov. print and compare it to the drill bit dimension from the original hole what do you notice? I have always figured there are trade offs to using any style jig to get the best finish product you could using common tools. Oh yeah it looks beautiful but i can do the slot on a sloppy bridgeport or jury rig the jig Point is, they overeized the jig. Slop alone wouldnt make it big enuf to be an issue |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 1:16:21 PM EDT
[#9]
I measured my jig. The #3 slots in the jig are right around 0.355". The #3 guide pins are about 0.315". On my jig, the thing is going to cut a slot 0.040" wider than whatever end mill is in it.
Assuming you use a 5/16" endmill, that is 0.3125. Add the 0.040 that the jig produces, and your slot would be 0.3525". Easiest way to tighten that up would be to wrap some tape around the #3 guide pins. Get them so big that they slide in the #3 jig slots with no side to side play. You're talking 3 minutes worth of work and no machining necessary. Or if you have a lathe or 3D printer, make you up some replacement #3 pins that are the correct length, but like 35 thou wider diameter. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 1:55:36 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Point is, they overeized the jig. Slop alone wouldnt make it big enuf to be an issue Occams Razor says it is more likely he did not use the correct pins vs they made an oversized jig. eta Re-Reading your posts, it seems it he did not swap to the next set of pins for section 3, which resulted in a deeper cut to section 2. If his jig is missing section 3 (meaning section2 is clear through) then yeah, it is oversized, and he should have seen that error immediately. Pretty easy to tell what went wrong. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 2:37:48 PM EDT
[#11]
just more of 5d pissing in there cheereo,s
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Posted: 12/1/2020 3:10:34 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I measured my jig. The #3 slots in the jig are right around 0.355". The #3 guide pins are about 0.315". On my jig, the thing is going to cut a slot 0.040" wider than whatever end mill is in it. Assuming you use a 5/16" endmill, that is 0.3125. Add the 0.040 that the jig produces, and your slot would be 0.3525". Easiest way to tighten that up would be to wrap some tape around the #3 guide pins. Get them so big that they slide in the #3 jig slots with no side to side play. You're talking 3 minutes worth of work and no machining necessary. Or if you have a lathe or 3D printer, make you up some replacement #3 pins that are the correct length, but like 35 thou wider diameter. Yeah well its overized length wise more than that, otherwise id make new dowels that are .355” or whatever. So i figured id make spacers. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 3:12:40 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Occams Razor says it is more likely he did not use the correct pins vs they made an oversized jig. eta Re-Reading your posts, it seems it he did not swap to the next set of pins for section 3, which resulted in a deeper cut to section 2. If his jig is missing section 3 (meaning section2 is clear through) then yeah, it is oversized, and he should have seen that error immediately. Pretty easy to tell what went wrong. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Point is, they overeized the jig. Slop alone wouldnt make it big enuf to be an issue Occams Razor says it is more likely he did not use the correct pins vs they made an oversized jig. eta Re-Reading your posts, it seems it he did not swap to the next set of pins for section 3, which resulted in a deeper cut to section 2. If his jig is missing section 3 (meaning section2 is clear through) then yeah, it is oversized, and he should have seen that error immediately. Pretty easy to tell what went wrong. No he did not make the trigger slot the size of the trigger cavity lol. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 3:19:44 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No he did not make the trigger slot the size of the trigger cavity lol. Your words above: "No the slot is damn near the same size as jig guide" Either way it is easy to see what went wrong. If his jig does not look like every other one posted on the internet, it is the jig, else it is human error. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 3:28:25 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Your words above: "No the slot is damn near the same size as jig guide" Either way it is easy to see what went wrong. If his jig does not look like every other one posted on the internet, it is the jig, else it is human error. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: No he did not make the trigger slot the size of the trigger cavity lol. Your words above: "No the slot is damn near the same size as jig guide" Either way it is easy to see what went wrong. If his jig does not look like every other one posted on the internet, it is the jig, else it is human error. Yes i get it. Its the jig. As the other dude said, his jig is .040” over also. The nice photo of raw lower with trigger - i bet that jig was cut right. Ours is newer, from this year. Maybe they banged out some with big slot, i dunno. Seems completely unaccetable to me. I can grab trigger shoe and slide trigger waaay left and right. Im not gonna cut my own one as it is, i can tell you that right now. They replied once that it was on purpose to accomodate diff lowers which is so effin crazy ur cutting whole cavity at once. Sounds like a ba excuse from someone that dowsnt understand wtf is happening. And then they went silent. Or maybe the nice photo is oversize also, idk. But it looks right. My friend’s lower does NOT look ok |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 4:38:12 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes i get it. Its the jig. As the other dude said, his jig is .040” over also. The nice photo of raw lower with trigger - i bet that jig was cut right. Ours is newer, from this year. My photo above and those measurements of it cutting 0.040" over width of the endmill are all from my jig that was from 1 month ago. Its their new style one with the extruded aluminum side pieces and the router block thats polymer instead of metal. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 4:53:37 PM EDT
[#17]
Rather than pissing back and fourth, maybe OP could post a picture of the jig with a ruler next to the third slot for comparison?
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Posted: 12/1/2020 7:38:57 PM EDT
[#18]
 OP needs to post pics. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 8:51:13 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: OP needs to post pics. The jig is in another county. Another user already confirmed dimensions so idk what y’all wanna see. The lower is long gone. |
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Posted: 12/1/2020 11:50:13 PM EDT
[#20]
I thought this was common knowledge? Many of us have been complaining about the trigger hole issue for years. It’s not anything wrong with his Jig, it’s the design of the big itself.
That said I looked at their photos online and seen they updated it recently the newer Jig looks like they have skeletonized the side plates to reduce weight and mentioned the top plate is now made of polymer. I figure it’s a way to make it cheaper and faster with all the recent demand. When looking at the photos I thought the trigger holes looked a tad smaller but couldn’t tell from the photos. Now looking at the lower above that was milled out on the newer jig it appears they did finally listen to all the complaints and made the trigger cavity smaller. Perhaps a new top plate is worth it for $65 or so. What I have seen done in the past was drill the initial pilot hole which is the perfect width to start with for AR trigger holes and then instead of using the router to finish the trigger hole use a dremel and small files to lengthen it out. This takes a lot longer then it should just to have a lower that doesn’t look like Donkey Kong was boning the trigger hole. I thought about making inserts for the top plate but I had no mill to do so. I always wondered why someone with a mill or 3D printer doesn’t make inserts and sell them? Polymer inserts should work fine and could be 3D printed very easily. But something else I thought of was just having someone make a whole new top plate for the market with smaller trigger hole and maybe even different internal dimensions too. Maybe copy the M16 design instead of AR15 which would cut more material out of the rear and lighten the lowers a little more. If anyone wants to make inserts or a new top plate shoot me an email. I’d be happy to buy them. The first lower I did I scrapped because I couldn’t stand the trigger hole. It just looks stupid to me. I ended up selling the jig to a friend since it wasn’t worth the trouble over just buying 100% lowers. But if I could get some inserts made I’d probably get it back from him. |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 8:57:49 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I thought this was common knowledge? Many of us have been complaining about the trigger hole issue for years. It’s not anything wrong with his Jig, it’s the design of the big itself. That said I looked at their photos online and seen they updated it recently the newer Jig looks like they have skeletonized the side plates to reduce weight and mentioned the top plate is now made of polymer. I figure it’s a way to make it cheaper and faster with all the recent demand. When looking at the photos I thought the trigger holes looked a tad smaller but couldn’t tell from the photos. Now looking at the lower above that was milled out on the newer jig it appears they did finally listen to all the complaints and made the trigger cavity smaller. Perhaps a new top plate is worth it for $65 or so. What I have seen done in the past was drill the initial pilot hole which is the perfect width to start with for AR trigger holes and then instead of using the router to finish the trigger hole use a dremel and small files to lengthen it out. This takes a lot longer then it should just to have a lower that doesn’t look like Donkey Kong was boning the trigger hole. I thought about making inserts for the top plate but I had no mill to do so. I always wondered why someone with a mill or 3D printer doesn’t make inserts and sell them? Polymer inserts should work fine and could be 3D printed very easily. But something else I thought of was just having someone make a whole new top plate for the market with smaller trigger hole and maybe even different internal dimensions too. Maybe copy the M16 design instead of AR15 which would cut more material out of the rear and lighten the lowers a little more. If anyone wants to make inserts or a new top plate shoot me an email. I’d be happy to buy them. The first lower I did I scrapped because I couldn’t stand the trigger hole. It just looks stupid to me. I ended up selling the jig to a friend since it wasn’t worth the trouble over just buying 100% lowers. But if I could get some inserts made I’d probably get it back from him. Im with you 1000000000% I want 16 profile, at least 6 companies make semi auto 16 cut lower. They absolutely feel lighter in thr hand, probably a cubic inch less aluminum. And they look badass. |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 10:07:43 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My photo above and those measurements of it cutting 0.040" over width of the endmill are all from my jig that was from 1 month ago. Its their new style one with the extruded aluminum side pieces and the router block thats polymer instead of metal. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Yes i get it. Its the jig. As the other dude said, his jig is .040” over also. The nice photo of raw lower with trigger - i bet that jig was cut right. Ours is newer, from this year. My photo above and those measurements of it cutting 0.040" over width of the endmill are all from my jig that was from 1 month ago. Its their new style one with the extruded aluminum side pieces and the router block thats polymer instead of metal. I cannot find photos of that plate |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 11:00:43 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That said I looked at their photos online and seen they updated it recently the newer Jig looks like they have skeletonized the side plates to reduce weight and mentioned the top plate is now made of polymer. I figure it’s a way to make it cheaper and faster with all the recent demand. The top plate of the jig is still aluminum. The router plate is plastic. |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 2:26:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The top plate of the jig is still aluminum. The router plate is plastic. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: That said I looked at their photos online and seen they updated it recently the newer Jig looks like they have skeletonized the side plates to reduce weight and mentioned the top plate is now made of polymer. I figure it’s a way to make it cheaper and faster with all the recent demand. The top plate of the jig is still aluminum. The router plate is plastic. OIC. The photos with the hollowed out side plates. I think we are going to buy another top plate and mill it out for a different profile. Really they should just give us a free one paid enough for the fucking gig and the results look stupid |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 10:24:59 AM EDT
[#25]
Anyone have drill guides do this? Obviously they are not hardened like they claim.
  
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Posted: 12/6/2020 12:03:44 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anyone have drill guides do this? Obviously they are not hardened like they claim. https://i.pixxxels.cc/MK7sfThJ/20201128-142008.jpg https://i.pixxxels.cc/nhn34xJj/20201128-142019.jpg https://i.pixxxels.cc/Bv6NzCtJ/20201128-142234.jpg Whoever did that probably shouldn't be around tools. Those steel inserts are guides, they're not idiot proof. |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 6:11:50 PM EDT
[#27]
 That drill bit was OBVIOUSLY way off center! Many early jigs didn’t have bushings at all, just holes in the aluminum.McMaster Carr offers replacement drill bushings, BUT, no bushing is going to stand up to a drill bit THAT off center! LINK |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 10:14:55 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That drill bit was OBVIOUSLY way off center! Many early jigs didn’t have bushings at all, just holes in the aluminum.McMaster Carr offers replacement drill bushings, BUT, no bushing is going to stand up to a drill bit THAT off center! LINK Those bushings look like someone used a drill press but didn't square the table. Notice how the egg shape seems to be towards the same side on all 3 holes. |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 10:22:06 PM EDT
[#29]
Getting ready to change into someone more comfortable. Name changes coming.
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Posted: 12/6/2020 10:53:07 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anyone have drill guides do this? Obviously they are not hardened like they claim. [url]https://i.pixxxels.cc/MK7sfThJ/20201128-142008.jpg[url] [url]https://i.pixxxels.cc/nhn34xJj/20201128-142019.jpg[url] [url]https://i.pixxxels.cc/Bv6NzCtJ/20201128-142234.jpg[url] When did you get your jig? I received mine two weeks ago, went to try it out tonight and had a similar issue. |
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Posted: 12/7/2020 2:16:26 AM EDT
[#31]
JUST MORE 5d crap quality products. there on the way out as everybody is seeing them for what they really are. the door is wide open for a quality mfg company. when this happens 5d and there 2 sister companys will cease to exist............... good ridins to them..............
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Posted: 12/7/2020 7:41:10 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: JUST MORE 5d crap quality products. there on the way out as everybody is seeing them for what they really are. the door is wide open for a quality mfg company. when this happens 5d and there 2 sister companys will cease to exist............... good ridins to them.............. So being new to 80% lowers who makes the best billet pieces? |
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Posted: 12/7/2020 10:41:55 PM EDT
[#33]
I'm not sure how that happens during normal use. I have done 2 lowers with mine and about to order 5 more lowers. Mine still looks new. No scars just light rubbing from an unsteady hand drill. I have the new style. The trigger hole on the first was a little funky but that was because of me. I turned the router on before I had the bit centered. The 2nd came out fine.
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Posted: 12/10/2020 10:19:36 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: When did you get your jig? I received mine two weeks ago, went to try it out tonight and had a similar issue. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Anyone have drill guides do this? Obviously they are not hardened like they claim. [url]https://i.pixxxels.cc/MK7sfThJ/20201128-142008.jpg[url] [url]https://i.pixxxels.cc/nhn34xJj/20201128-142019.jpg[url] [url]https://i.pixxxels.cc/Bv6NzCtJ/20201128-142234.jpg[url] When did you get your jig? I received mine two weeks ago, went to try it out tonight and had a similar issue. Same issue with mine. Machined a lower and put it together, the safety selector is crooked. Looks like the hole is drilled too far back. Bushings are oval. This is the first time I used it and I used the bits included. Received it about a month ago.  
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Posted: 12/20/2020 10:51:08 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Im with you 1000000000% I want 16 profile, at least 6 companies make semi auto 16 cut lower. They absolutely feel lighter in thr hand, probably a cubic inch less aluminum. And they look badass. Just now getting back to this thread but If you have a new top plate made please let me know I’d happily buy one as well to perhaps reduce the cost of having one made. I bet a lot of people here would buy them if someone machines some up. M16 profile and smaller trigger hole in both width and length. I don’t even need the indentions for depth cut. A aluminum top plate should be very easy to make for someone with a mill. I may try to see if I can find someone to do it. And idk why more people don’t offer M16 profile either since plenty of receivers come that way and are noticeably lighter and more authentic for clone builds. I see no down side. And to the posters below with guide bushing issues I have no idea how it could be that messed up unless you were really trying to egg the hole out by putting sideways pressure on them. But if more then one person has had this issue recently there may be something to it. Sounds like they really cheaped out on everything here lately. |
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Posted: 12/20/2020 10:56:51 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Same issue with mine. Machined a lower and put it together, the safety selector is crooked. Looks like the hole is drilled too far back. Bushings are oval. This is the first time I used it and I used the bits included. Received it about a month ago. https://i.imgur.com/aiNH77n.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/ddkYncW.jpg?1 A little off topic but what lower parts kit are you using here if you remember? It looks like the mag catch is parkerized and I have been looking for some parked mag catches for awhile now. Almost all of them I find are shiny black or deep black anymore which I don’t like for clones. It’s hard to find parkerized takedown pins too. I wish places listed what the coating was so you wouldn’t have to order just one to see before ordering a larger quantity. I prefer parkerized small parts on all builds the grey just looks much nicer to me to offset the black receiver even on modern builds. |
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Posted: 12/20/2020 12:41:50 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A little off topic but what lower parts kit are you using here if you remember? It looks like the mag catch is parkerized and I have been looking for some parked mag catches for awhile now. Almost all of them I find are shiny black or deep black anymore which I don’t like for clones. It’s hard to find parkerized takedown pins too. I wish places listed what the coating was so you wouldn’t have to order just one to see before ordering a larger quantity. I prefer parkerized small parts on all builds the grey just looks much nicer to me to offset the black receiver even on modern builds. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Same issue with mine. Machined a lower and put it together, the safety selector is crooked. Looks like the hole is drilled too far back. Bushings are oval. This is the first time I used it and I used the bits included. Received it about a month ago. https://i.imgur.com/aiNH77n.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/ddkYncW.jpg?1 A little off topic but what lower parts kit are you using here if you remember? It looks like the mag catch is parkerized and I have been looking for some parked mag catches for awhile now. Almost all of them I find are shiny black or deep black anymore which I don’t like for clones. It’s hard to find parkerized takedown pins too. I wish places listed what the coating was so you wouldn’t have to order just one to see before ordering a larger quantity. I prefer parkerized small parts on all builds the grey just looks much nicer to me to offset the black receiver even on modern builds. https://aimsurplus.com/unbrandedar-elg-ar-lower-receiver-parts-kit-lpk/ I picked up a few when they were on sale for $39. |
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Posted: 12/21/2020 12:02:48 AM EDT
[#38]
Thanks, looks like a decent parts kit for the money I checked them out on their factory site and they had them for a little cheaper but I have picked up lots of small parts over the years in lots so don’t really need whole lower parts kits sadly.
I mostly just need takedown pins and mag catches. On their site the parts kits say everything is parkerized but their individual parts say black oxide so I emailed them and will see. If you happen to see this reply and have the time - was the trigger fairly decent in it? I usually stick with Schmidt Tool parts that are stamped S since they are almost never gritty and are all fairly nice. Most of the big names use their parts and it’s a shame they don’t sell directly. But those parts kits look pretty nice for the money if the trigger isn’t gritty. It looks like they don’t use any MIM crap. |
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Posted: 12/22/2020 2:50:33 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I always wondered why someone with a mill or 3D printer doesn’t make inserts and sell them? Polymer inserts should work fine and could be 3D printed very easily. But something else I thought of was just having someone make a whole new top plate for the market with smaller trigger hole and maybe even different internal dimensions too. Printed inserts work great and the files are freely available online. I'm guessing nobody sells them because they cost pennies to make. |
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Posted: 12/22/2020 5:06:24 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: ... And to the posters below with guide bushing issues I have no idea how it could be that messed up unless you were really trying to egg the hole out by putting sideways pressure on them. ... I'm thinking hand drill vs drill press. also, the right-side safety selector hole should probably be drilled before milling. If drilled after milling, the stepped internal wall thickness will force the drill bit to side-load the insert, regardless. This was discussed in another thread, this sub-forum. |
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Posted: 12/22/2020 9:50:59 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm thinking hand drill vs drill press. also, the right-side safety selector hole should probably be drilled before milling. If drilled after milling, the stepped internal wall thickness will force the drill bit to side-load the insert, regardless. This was discussed in another thread, this sub-forum. The ONLY time I’ve had an issue was when I didn’t tighten the lower fully in the jig! I ALWAYS use a drill press with the table properly “squared” to the bit and do the drilling from each side AFTER milling! |
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Posted: 1/11/2021 12:41:30 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Those bushings look like someone used a drill press but didn't square the table. Notice how the egg shape seems to be towards the same side on all 3 holes. I ran into a problem that caused something similar. When drilling the initial hole that goes all the way through the lower I think I wasn't perfectly aligned and when I made the final pass using the router the trigger hole looks like it has a slight bump out. Doesn't bother me since everything functions as it should, but I know it would cause diarrhea for many who are more demanding. The jig flexes a bit too when turned on it's side to drill the safety and trigger holes which could misalign the holes slightly. I counter it with my finger under the jig as I drill, but it's something I noticed. |
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Posted: 1/13/2021 11:18:32 PM EDT
[#43]
5D BITS ARE CHINA SHITZ
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Posted: 1/14/2021 9:21:58 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 5D BITS ARE CHINA SHITZ WELL KNOWN fact, good drill bits are pricey. The trigger hole SHOULD be 21/64” (the diameter of the guide hole you initially drill) |
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Posted: 1/14/2021 11:38:03 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes i get it. Its the jig. As the other dude said, his jig is .040” over also. The nice photo of raw lower with trigger - i bet that jig was cut right. Ours is newer, from this year. Maybe they banged out some with big slot, i dunno. Seems completely unaccetable to me. I can grab trigger shoe and slide trigger waaay left and right. Im not gonna cut my own one as it is, i can tell you that right now. They replied once that it was on purpose to accomodate diff lowers which is so effin crazy ur cutting whole cavity at once. Sounds like a ba excuse from someone that dowsnt understand wtf is happening. And then they went silent. Or maybe the nice photo is oversize also, idk. But it looks right. My friend’s lower does NOT look ok I have the newer 5D jig and just finished completing a 80 lower and happen to have a new Larue trigger to install...pics to follow tomorrow or Saturday when I have some time. I'll be interested to see if it looks over-sized. |
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Posted: 1/14/2021 11:44:52 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Whoever did that probably shouldn't be around tools. Those steel inserts are guides, they're not idiot proof. Agreed !! |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 11:47:54 AM EDT
[#47]
Quoted: Whoever did that probably shouldn't be around tools. Those steel inserts are guides, they're not idiot proof. Quoted: Agreed !! I still have a Modulus Arms Gen 1 jig that has aluminum side plates with NO bushings. It is in a hell of a lot better shape than that. But then again, I “square” my drill press table to the bit, I make sure the bit enters the guide hole with NO resistance, and use LOTS of lubricant. Then I start drilling. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 12:15:21 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: WELL KNOWN fact, good drill bits are pricey. The trigger hole SHOULD be 21/64” (the diameter of the guide hole you initially drill) If memory serves, my old Modulus HD jig the diameter of the guide hole drilled for the trigger slot is 19/64", which leaves just a tiny bit more leeway. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 1:40:01 PM EDT
[#49]
Getting ready to change into someone more comfortable. Name changes coming.
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Posted: 1/15/2021 2:19:45 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Different because of the size mill bit? Was it one of the jigs that used a 1/4" end mill instead of a 5/16"? Yes, it uses a standard 1/4" end mill bit. No collet adapter or special router base plate. |
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