User Panel
Quoted:
Everyone else has chimed in., so I will, too. I haven't had as much experience with AR's as many of you guys, but I would say this: - DON'T use motor oil on a weapon. It's too heavy a viscosity and it will build up and burn into carbon sludge. Synthetics (like Mobil 1) introduce even more opportunities for chemical decomposition. Your AR isn't a small-block Chevy engine and it has different needs - Running a weapon literally dripping wet (like some of you suggest) isn't necessary and isn't advisable unless you're in the sandbox and are flushing out sand. Some penetrants in oils/cleaners will kill primers, and too much oil in the bore or chamber can cause stuck cases or kabooms in severe cases - I personally find combination cleaners and oils (like CLP) suffer from some evaporation (of the carrier) and don't leave a sufficient layer of lube on the parts. I use it, but them I oil the weapon with something else Don't embarrass the rest of us at the range by hauling out an AR that is dripping oil out of the magwell and splattering oil in your face with every shot. Sorry, but that's just silly. . . ETA: This is intended for the 97% of us who do not run carbine courses or shoot bad guys in foreign lands. If you're blowing 5,000 rounds through your rifle in a day, or are using your AR to save your neck, you need to go to extraordinary lengths to keep it functional. But yours is not the kind of shooting conditions most of us experience, and there's no need for us to lube like you. . . 97% of your post is WRONG..sorry. |
|
Quoted:
Everyone else has chimed in., so I will, too. I haven't had as much experience with AR's as many of you guys, but I would say this: - DON'T use motor oil on a weapon. It's too heavy a viscosity and it will build up and burn into carbon sludge. Synthetics (like Mobil 1) introduce even more opportunities for chemical decomposition. Your AR isn't a small-block Chevy engine and it has different needs - Running a weapon literally dripping wet (like some of you suggest) isn't necessary and isn't advisable unless you're in the sandbox and are flushing out sand. Some penetrants in oils/cleaners will kill primers, and too much oil in the bore or chamber can cause stuck cases or kabooms in severe cases - I personally find combination cleaners and oils (like CLP) suffer from some evaporation (of the carrier) and don't leave a sufficient layer of lube on the parts. I use it, but them I oil the weapon with something else Don't embarrass the rest of us at the range by hauling out an AR that is dripping oil out of the magwell and splattering oil in your face with every shot. Sorry, but that's just silly. . . ETA: This is intended for the 97% of us who do not run carbine courses or shoot bad guys in foreign lands. If you're blowing 5,000 rounds through your rifle in a day, or are using your AR to save your neck, you need to go to extraordinary lengths to keep it functional. But yours is not the kind of shooting conditions most of us experience, and there's no need for us to lube like you. . . I have had ex military say mobil 1 is all they used while over seas and i think they shoot a heck of a lot more then we do And a quart of mobil one is a heck of a lot cheaper than a quart of weapon shield or EWL. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Everyone else has chimed in., so I will, too. I haven't had as much experience with AR's as many of you guys, but I would say this: - DON'T use motor oil on a weapon. It's too heavy a viscosity and it will build up and burn into carbon sludge. Synthetics (like Mobil 1) introduce even more opportunities for chemical decomposition. Your AR isn't a small-block Chevy engine and it has different needs - Running a weapon literally dripping wet (like some of you suggest) isn't necessary and isn't advisable unless you're in the sandbox and are flushing out sand. Some penetrants in oils/cleaners will kill primers, and too much oil in the bore or chamber can cause stuck cases or kabooms in severe cases - I personally find combination cleaners and oils (like CLP) suffer from some evaporation (of the carrier) and don't leave a sufficient layer of lube on the parts. I use it, but them I oil the weapon with something else Don't embarrass the rest of us at the range by hauling out an AR that is dripping oil out of the magwell and splattering oil in your face with every shot. Sorry, but that's just silly. . . ETA: This is intended for the 97% of us who do not run carbine courses or shoot bad guys in foreign lands. If you're blowing 5,000 rounds through your rifle in a day, or are using your AR to save your neck, you need to go to extraordinary lengths to keep it functional. But yours is not the kind of shooting conditions most of us experience, and there's no need for us to lube like you. . . I have had ex military say mobil 1 is all they used while over seas and i think they shoot a heck of a lot more then we do And a quart of mobil one is a heck of a lot cheaper than a quart of weapon shield or EWL. An AR-15 is not an internal combustion engine. |
|
After reading a thread where Pat Rogers said that he switched to Slip2000 EWL and that is all that he uses I gave it a try. I had been using CLP (Wet) and it didn't seem to last very long on the parts. After trying Slip2000 EWL I have been more than impressed, it lubes well and stays on the surface longer. I still give it a decent dose of EWL and the performance has been great.
http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000-EWL.html |
|
Quoted:
After reading a thread where Pat Rogers said that he switched to Slip2000 EWL and that is all that he uses I gave it a try. I had been using CLP (Wet) and it didn't seem to last very long on the parts. After trying Slip2000 EWL I have been more than impressed, it lubes well and stays on the surface longer. I still give it a decent dose of EWL and the performance has been great. http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000-EWL.html That is exactly why I decided to try it. I lubed my BCG generously a couple weeks ago and fire 120 rounds out of my 6920. The BCG was just as wet as before firing. |
|
I CLP as the manual states!
Never any problems PERIOD But I never shoot over 500rds in 1 day The TW 25B white grease is good if you are going to be in the water Running dripping wet ??? Never been doing fine for many many many years now Heavy and dripping wet are 2 different things in my book |
|
Check out MilComm products...have a military contract. I like TW25B, MC3000, and their cleaner/degreaser.....stuff is grwat and stays in place. I use it on my personal and duty guns.....all....870, AR, Glock, 1911, bolt guns, etc.http://www.mil-comm.com/
|
|
Quoted:
Check out MilComm products...have a military contract. I like TW25B, M3000, and their cleaner/degreaser.....stuff is grwat and stays in place. I use it on my personal and duty guns.....all....870, AR, Glock, 1911, bolt guns, etc. Yes its good stuff |
|
I run my BCG wet with Machine gunners lube
Not dripping out of the magwell but it seeps through the pins in the lower, I think i last cleaned my rifle about 5-600 rounds ago. and its still nice and lubed |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
I run my BCG's pretty damn wet too. Its not quite dripping sloppy wet, but its definitely got a nice coat on it. I've been using CLP, but I'm going to order some weapon shield and try that exclusively for a while to see how it works out. You will like Weapon Shield.. its one heck of a lube.. and it smells good too(sweet smell) I got a sample bottle that I've been using on my glocks and XD's, and it seems to work fine so far (though to be fair those guns are SUPER tolerant of just about anything). Once I get a big jug of the WS, I'll use it on the AR in a torture test. CLP has worked fine for me, but I religiously clean the AR after every 200-300 rounds currently, so the CLP isn't having to work very hard. |
|
http://www.ar15.com/content/manuals/TM9-1005-319-23.pdf
The weapon system really doesn't really need all that much lubrication. If you live in a very humid climate or expect to be stomping around swamps with your rifle, then you might want a light coat of CLP over all metal parts to prevent corrosion. If not, a dab of CLP on the gas rings, cam pin, and the four rails on the bolt carrier which actually make contact with the upper receiver, should be sufficient. I also put just a bit on the charging handle only so that it doesn't sound so gritty when I charge the weapon. I have run through thousands of rounds per weapon between cleanings using this strategy, much of it suppressed. I've shot hundreds of rounds (more than anybody is likely to carry, let alone expend in a firefight) in a day, heated the weapons up something fierce and not run into problems. CLP is perfectly suitable for use on Mr. Stoner's weapon system, however, I've personally had good results treating with Militech according to the instructions and lubing with CLP. The parts seem to be slicker and there seems to be less friction even when bone dry. It could just be in my head, though. I've also run AR-15s completely dry for a couple hundred rounds without issue. In my opinion, lubrication has much more to do with reducing wear and therefore increasing weapon longevity and reducing corrosion than increasing reliability. There should never be any more than the very lightest coat of CLP on the bolt face, chamber or bore, though. For those who don't know, a light coat of CLP is just enough to darken the metal a bit. If it comes of on your finger at all, it is too much. You can apply a bit and wipe it off with a rag or boresnake and it should have plenty. |
|
|
|
Quoted:
http://www.ar15.com/content/manuals/TM9-1005-319-23.pdf The weapon system really doesn't really need all that much lubrication. If you live in a very humid climate or expect to be stomping around swamps with your rifle, then you might want a light coat of CLP over all metal parts to prevent corrosion. If not, a dab of CLP on the gas rings, cam pin, and the four rails on the bolt carrier which actually make contact with the upper receiver, should be sufficient. I also put just a bit on the charging handle only so that it doesn't sound so gritty when I charge the weapon. I have run through thousands of rounds per weapon between cleanings using this strategy, much of it suppressed. I've shot hundreds of rounds (more than anybody is likely to carry, let alone expend in a firefight) in a day, heated the weapons up something fierce and not run into problems. CLP is perfectly suitable for use on Mr. Stoner's weapon system, however, I've personally had good results treating with Militech according to the instructions and lubing with CLP. The parts seem to be slicker and there seems to be less friction even when bone dry. It could just be in my head, though. I've also run AR-15s completely dry for a couple hundred rounds without issue. In my opinion, lubrication has much more to do with reducing wear and therefore increasing weapon longevity and reducing corrosion than increasing reliability. There should never be any more than the very lightest coat of CLP on the bolt face, chamber or bore, though. For those who don't know, a light coat of CLP is just enough to darken the metal a bit. If it comes of on your finger at all, it is too much. You can apply a bit and wipe it off with a rag or boresnake and it should have plenty. In my experience (which is not too much compared to some) a light coat of CLP will burn off in a few hundred rounds..I don't use it for anything anymore LP is slightly better after trying MGL, ill never go back |
|
I have had really good luck with Slip2000 EWL. I work in a high desert area that is dusty, very low humidity and is subject to extreme temperature variations. EWL on my gun (6920) is good for at least 90 days and has not in my experience attracted any significant amount of dust. I used EWL through the Magpul Dynamics Carbine II class and I only re-lubed the bolt once. I now use EWL on all my guns including my pistols. Slip2000 also makes a grease that I use on my bolt carrier rails and pistol slides.
|
|
My Spec Ops buddies are running Mobil 1
I will next time I go to the range |
|
Quoted: Everyone else has chimed in., so I will, too. I haven't had as much experience with AR's as many of you guys, but I would say this: - DON'T use motor oil on a weapon. It's too heavy a viscosity and it will build up and burn into carbon sludge. Synthetics (like Mobil 1) introduce even more opportunities for chemical decomposition. Your AR isn't a small-block Chevy engine and it has different needs - Running a weapon literally dripping wet (like some of you suggest) isn't necessary and isn't advisable unless you're in the sandbox and are flushing out sand. Some penetrants in oils/cleaners will kill primers, and too much oil in the bore or chamber can cause stuck cases or kabooms in severe cases - I personally find combination cleaners and oils (like CLP) suffer from some evaporation (of the carrier) and don't leave a sufficient layer of lube on the parts. I use it, but them I oil the weapon with something else Don't embarrass the rest of us at the range by hauling out an AR that is dripping oil out of the magwell and splattering oil in your face with every shot. Sorry, but that's just silly. . . ETA: This is intended for the 97% of us who do not run carbine courses or shoot bad guys in foreign lands. If you're blowing 5,000 rounds through your rifle in a day, or are using your AR to save your neck, you need to go to extraordinary lengths to keep it functional. But yours is not the kind of shooting conditions most of us experience, and there's no need for us to lube like you. . . Many people use various engine oils without ill effects. Especially for casual range shooting, it is sufficient. For a rifle that is not used often, it will stay in place better. This is false, the Box-o-Truth has shown that even the feared WD40 won't kill a primer of a cartridge covered in it after weeks of exposure. The AR runs best wet... It is better to be too wet than too try. A dry gun is just going to jam on the range, which will further the myth of AR unreliability. Lube is cheap... It doesn't hurt to have your gun wet. |
|
Yaeger should know... We all know of his glorious combat experience. That being said, I use "Marine Grease" on occasion and it works well. |
|
Ive been running mine with Tri-Flow teflon lube in the BCG, and then molybdenum grease on the places where the bolt contacts the upper. it runs so slick. not dripping wet. but never failures.
|
|
i use the brake free, heavy stuff I think it's called canon lube, I bought some from Bass Pro, it seems much thicker and tends not to run even when the rifle is hot. I also use shooters choice red grease but am switching to Valvoline C-V joint grease on parts like the buffer tube, it seems top stop the boing to almost nothing. I've not had a problem with the Break free. I use the Valvoline grease on my M1A Socom exclusively, the metal to metal rubs still look like new.
|
|
I run my rifles dripping wet with CLP. In two carbine classes over the past year, a total of 4000+ rounds over 5 days total (rifles were cleaned at the end of each day), never had a hiccup. (LWRC and Noveske). In the last class, my wife and I were the only ones who did not suffer malfunctions (she shoots a Colt...BCG dripping wet with CLP also). The instructors attributed most malfunctions of my classmates to inadequate lubrication or poor cleaning. Just my personal experience. |
|
try the machine gunners lube from LT , i put it on before the range and usally do 500 rounds without issue. i run a bore snake every 5 mags too. rarley spend more than 20 minutes cleaning too.
|
|
Before I shoot I give the BCG a spritz of CLP.
I have never had an FTF/FTE problem. But I have run new AR's too dry and had them have issues. Heavily oiled, yes. Dripping/spraying off when fired, usually no. |
|
Something to consider............OK an AR isn't the same as an M14/M1A but, stick with the thought............
When do you use oil, and when do you use grease?
by Clint McKee –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– When I wrote on rec.guns, "Oil is bad for semi's. The robust cycling of the action throws the oil all over the place. Grease is better in almost every situation," I was asked, "Clint, I notice that you also sell Tetra Oil. What's the application for this? Barrels? Revolvers?" Excellent question! Tetra oil, or any oil, for that matter, should only be used as a primary lubricant in captivated assemblies, or in assemblies that do not have robust movement. For example, crankcases in engines & motors are sealed, as oil is designed fly around inside them, and thusly lubricate all the moving parts contained within them. Of course, if the crankcase were not sealed, the oil would go everywhere, and drip upon every manner of thing, except that which it was designed to lubricate. The same thing applies to gas guns and recoil operated firearms. So, use Tetra Oil in any "captivated" assembly (springs, detents, plungers, gears, screws, levers, slides, etc., but only when enclosed in a housing), or in applications where inertial energy will not bleed out its effectiveness. For areas not enclosed, use Tetra Grease, only. In addition, Tetra Oil is a fabulous protectant due to its hydrophobicity, impregnation of the treated metal, and corrossion resistance. It also is terrific for treating barrel bores. The active ingredient, PTFE, actually gets imbedded into the metal surface, and makes cleaning up a dream. Black Powder enthusiasts are believers, among many, many others. Rifle bores, when properly prepared and treated with Tetra Oil, have actually been shown to significantly improve accuracy in all calibers from .22 to .50 cal. Believe it or not. For documentation, contact Tetra Products directly. These tests were performed by independent organizations. Now, one might reasonably ask, "When should I use Tetra Spray?" Another excellent question! Tetra Spray is a cleaner and very light oil that does NOT impregnate the metal pores, thus allowing the full benefit of Tetra Grease or Tetra Oil lubrication. Remember, one of the biggest advantages available with the Tetra family of lubricants is that the PTFE particles in all Tetra lubes will impregnate the metal it comes into contact with. So, it works even when it's "gone," but only if the metal is completely cleaned before use, allowing the Tetra Oil or Tetra Grease access to the pores of the metal. If the metal is occluded with old lube, dirt, debris, the particless cannot bond into the pores. So, use the Tetra spray for cleaning (not degreasing, that is another subject entirely), the Tetra oil for captivated assemblies, or low inertial systems, and grease for everything else. Oh, and treat your rifle bores with Tetra Oil 1-3 times a year. Hope this helps. Clint McKee As far as my M1A........... Yes, I also use grease.........automotive wheel bearing grease. Oil = CLP, for ME. Aloha, Mark PS...........gas systems are kept dry on the M1 and M14/M1A. |
|
On my SOCOM, i use very little clp only on the trigger assembly, more specifically the pins...that's it. My gas piston is cleaned with hoppes and dried / blown out with compressed air.
I really like the Valvoline Syn Power Disc Brake / Wheel Bearing / Chassis / C-V U-V Joint grease. Its a lithium based molybdenum fortified mix good to 400 degrees or better. $4.00 a tub at advanced auto... I shot over 600 rounds with my 6920 and only cleaned the barrel with a bore snake at the end of the first day. It ran like a champ...it was dusty / windy at that specific range as well over the two days I shot... |
|
I have had great results with FP-10 by Shooters Choice. It lasts a long time and is very slick.
|
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.