Quoted: Any updates on this one?

maybe it kaboomed while he was trying to fix his rifle...

I have fired 800+ with my rifle, not nearly enough for the arm chair comandos, but it has fired over 300 rounds of wolf with no problem.  I'm not saying wolf wasn't the problem here, just don't blame wolf for a bushy (or any othe type) not fireing.  It may be, it may not be, but do you have the same issue when someone says they have a stuck blackhills round?

The reality is that usualy when theres an AR problem its bad mags or maintinence problems+end user but experience says an M16 AR15 type weapon new right out of the box needs to be worn in like a pair of boots as its real stiff and tight when brand new.Good full power brass ammo for the first 1000 rounds really makes a diference reliabilty wise.

Lube well and maintinence is minimal at best..anymore then 15 minutes and your over cleaning.Use a good CLP..breakfree or slip2000 even my old stock of LSA/bore cleaner combo still keeps it running like a champ.Use good ammo,mags and lube and then crappy ammo will never be a problem.

Well actually I think what most people fail to realize with with wolf ammo is that it is steal cased and has a lack of quality control.  It is cheap for a reason, steal is cheaper than brass and rusts so it must be coated in a compound to prevent moisture from reaching it hence Laquer or polymer.  Either melts and becomes sticky when exposed to extreme heat or pressure which are both present when firing a firearm. Wolfs main and original market was for Kalishnikov's and Sks's and similiar weapons that have been designed for use with steal cased ammo, these weapons have much lower tolerences than a finely crafted ar15/m16.  With this they will handle junk ammo and love it. You're expensive top shelf colt/bushy is going to gag and choke on loads of melted laquer and polymer in its precision chamber and fine fiting compenents. I've owned 4 ar's and never shot junk ammo, never had a single problem other than a few slight jams when I was learning how to clean and maintain one, since I've fired 1000's of rounds, all brass and high quality... Really you should also consider your firearm is a valuable investment that you spent your hard earned money on, so why abuse it with junk. Steel ammo above all else erodes the head space in your barrel and is harder on all working components than brass... so above all else its burning out your gun just a little bit faster each time aswell, hope that helps shooters ~

Quoted: Looks like my new bushmaster is headed back to the store for some new parts O well you live you learn no more wolf ammo

Ive shot lots & lots of WOLF ammo in 2 Bushmasters
Never any problems

I guess Im just lucky

Quoted: Well actually I think what most people fail to realize with with wolf ammo is that it is steal cased and has a lack of quality control.  It is cheap for a reason, steal is cheaper than brass and rusts so it must be coated in a compound to prevent moisture from reaching it hence Laquer or polymer.  Either melts and becomes sticky when exposed to extreme heat or pressure which are both present when firing a firearm. Wolfs main and original market was for Kalishnikov's and Sks's and similiar weapons that have been designed for use with steal cased ammo, these weapons have much lower tolerences than a finely crafted ar15/m16.  With this they will handle junk ammo and love it. You're expensive top shelf colt/bushy is going to gag and choke on loads of melted laquer and polymer in its precision chamber and fine fiting compenents. I've owned 4 ar's and never shot junk ammo, never had a single problem other than a few slight jams when I was learning how to clean and maintain one, since I've fired 1000's of rounds, all brass and high quality... Really you should also consider your firearm is a valuable investment that you spent your hard earned money on, so why abuse it with junk. Steel ammo above all else erodes the head space in your barrel and is harder on all working components than brass... so above all else its burning out your gun just a little bit faster each time aswell, hope that helps shooters ~

So you DO shoot 223rem ammo

Because M193/M855 5.56mm is hot and can wear out your weapon faster

So you DO shoot 223rem ammo

Because M193/M855 5.56mm is hot and can wear out your weapon fasterhe

Quoted: Quoted: I have tons of wood dowels I'm looking for one that fits and can take a little hammering, My dad has been in Army for as long as I can remember fortunately he is retiring when he gets home. AWESOME!!!  Sounds like you might be able to get away without using a vise, just PLEASE make sure it is pointed in a SAFE direction...I have used firewood as an emergency backstop.  Or a basement wall WEAR PROTECTIVE GLASSES.  I don't want your father to have to come home and kick my ass because you became a Cyclops.

+1. Also thank your Dad for us when he gets back!

went out to the field behind my house and shot three magazines with no problem, loaded up the forth and fired the first shot then nothing, pulled the trigger and it has no response (yes the safety was off). I tried to open the bolt and it wont budge it is totally stuck in the closed position with a live round in the chamber!!

Has anyone here ever had this happen to them?? I am hoping its an easy fix that I just don't know about because I am new to the AR15.
------------

I had the exact same thing happen to my bushmaster.   I had put a few mags of PMC ammo
thru it with no problems.   Then I switched to NORINCO yellow box that I p/u at a gun show
so I dont know how old this ammo was.  Was firing away when I heard an odd "pop"!

Cease fired.  dropped the mag and tried to open the bolt.  Completely frozen shut!!!!  Nothing
could get it open.  The bolt was 4/5 of the way closed but not all the way.  I tapped the forward
assist---no dice---frozen.

I remember years ago my M-1 Garand bolt had frozen in place and it too could not be opened no
matter what.   Then I took a small block of wood and tapped the charging handle/op rod with it
and it opened just like that.

When I got the Bushmaster home,  I slid a cleaning rod down the barrel.  Then I tapped it with a
mallet. I pulled back on the charging handle and WALLA! it opened just like that.

The empty shell casing had the primer completely missing and I could see daylight all the way thru
the casing.  The extractor had bit down on the rim of the cartidge and left a gouge mark on the
brass.   After that,  I went back to shooing PMC----so far no problems.  

Let us know how things turn out.

I sent a carbon-15 pistol in to Bushmaster for a warranty repair and they sent it back fixed and included a note saying it fired X amount of rounds ( I forget the count ) of WOLF with zero malfunctions. The problem was a cracked upper receiver and not feed, fire or extraction related.

Tell me again about this yellow ticket that came with the Bushmaster. Sure it wasn't another manufacturer, like DPMS??

Ok so I finally have a update on my problem. After about 2 days of tapping on the bolt with a wooden dowel and a hammer I gave up and brought it to the local gun shop. When I told him what the problem was he laughed because he had three other bushmasters in his shop with exactly the same problem. I got mine back today and it shoots perfectly ... no damage was done but I was told that I probably wouldn't be as lucky if I did it again and to NEVER use wolf ammo in my bushmaster ever again.
The store owner also told me that for some reason older versions of the bushmaster handle wolf ammo with no problems but the ones coming off the line for the past year or so just can't seem to take it.

yarp!  no cheap ammo with bushy!

Quoted: yarp!  no cheap ammo with bushy!

Dude a 5.56 NATO chamber is a 5.56 NATO chamber. The rule is dont shoot Wolf in ANY AR15.

Older Bushmasters handle wolf better and newer ones wont..when did Bushmaster change their specs...thats ridiculous.So hes saying older rifles are more reliable.Its as simple as this brake in the rifle with good brass then use wolf..there shouldnr be any difference between new and old rifles other than BFI marked lowers with the 3D snake those are machined in house.Maybe the problem is in whos assembling the rifles in the factory.

The reality is this wolf uses a mild steel case..chromelining is 3 or 4 times harder,hardend steel like bolts are way way harder.If your rifle wont eat it then get rid of the rifle..before using wolf use brass ammo to break in.

Lets not forget that we used steel case ammo in a few calibers during WW2.I have UMC 30.06 thats steel cased as well as .45 ACP from that time.Why does work wolf for the majority..because its like the statistic...more often than not its an end user problem with how the rifle was maintained or how it was built at the factory.

The gun shop guy blames wolf what so he can push the ammo he stocks..bottom line if a combat rifle is gonna be relied on it better eat what you feed it and whts available.All I can say is that if steel cased was the only ammo you could find in an emergency and the rifle wont eat it your shit outa luck.

Quoted: The bolt is sliding back slowly but unfortunately I have to give up for the night so I can get some sleep...thank you everyone for your help, I'll give an update tomorrow with pictures so you can all tell me how much of a jack ass I am for using Wolf ammo

Using Wolf ammo is fine. Just fire a case of factory brass ammo (the hotter the better) before you start shooting Wolf. Even after a nice break in Wolf may still run like ass, but my AR didn't like Wolf until after a few hundred rounds.

Quoted: Well actually I think what most people fail to realize with with wolf ammo is that it is steal cased and has a lack of quality control.  It is cheap for a reason, steal is cheaper than brass and rusts so it must be coated in a compound to prevent moisture from reaching it hence Laquer or polymer.  Either melts and becomes sticky when exposed to extreme heat or pressure which are both present when firing a firearm. Wolfs main and original market was for Kalishnikov's and Sks's and similiar weapons that have been designed for use with steal cased ammo, these weapons have much lower tolerences than a finely crafted ar15/m16.  With this they will handle junk ammo and love it. You're expensive top shelf colt/bushy is going to gag and choke on loads of melted laquer and polymer in its precision chamber and fine fiting compenents. I've owned 4 ar's and never shot junk ammo, never had a single problem other than a few slight jams when I was learning how to clean and maintain one, since I've fired 1000's of rounds, all brass and high quality... Really you should also consider your firearm is a valuable investment that you spent your hard earned money on, so why abuse it with junk. Steel ammo above all else erodes the head space in your barrel and is harder on all working components than brass... so above all else its burning out your gun just a little bit faster each time aswell, hope that helps shooters ~

Incorrect.

I agree polymer doesnt melt and originaly with wolf it was sealant build up that was creating some problems not the laquer...god I wish there was a function like spell check that screens mis information like this crap.And as far as the AK and SKS go the 762x39 is cone shaped from shoulder to case head where as 556 and other american calibers have a straight case body.

Why is breaking your gun in with wolf bad for it?

Its not bad its just better to get the gun cycling at its optimum for breaking in with full power ammo..that way after things loosen a bit and sharp edges get rounded and run smoothe like glass the rifle will better eat low powered dirty crap and function reliably with it.