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Link Posted: 2/14/2004 2:08:47 AM EDT
LG308,
Have we met? I have shot at Pinkard a couple of times, but I havn't been to your new range yet.
Regards, Ray
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 3:39:11 AM EDT
I'd like to take a look!

Link Posted: 2/14/2004 5:20:13 AM EDT

link please.
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 5:48:13 AM EDT
Link please, Thank You.
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 6:09:28 AM EDT
Hello Ray,
I have been wait to hear this for sometime now. Please send me the link.
Thanks
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 6:31:44 AM EDT
Link please, Thank You.

cruizer

Link Posted: 2/14/2004 6:39:47 AM EDT
Link please. Thanks. -Justin
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 6:48:03 AM EDT
Link Please.

I started looking at it, but the link was removed..
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 7:05:12 AM EDT
Thank you for the link.
Regards,
FRIZ
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 8:29:22 AM EDT
Hit me.
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 9:21:02 AM EDT
NevadaARshooter,
Are you the fellow who originally turned me on to the anodize web site?
Regards, Ray
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 10:36:10 AM EDT
Hey, hope I'm not bugging you, but I really would like to take a look at the link. Can you either email it to me or IM me? Thanks!

EDIT: Duh! Nevermind! I wasn't looking back at page1 to see that you posted the link. Thanks so much, I'm sure I'll enjoy it!
Link Posted: 2/14/2004 11:00:00 AM EDT
Ray, I havnt shoot in the high power matches at TSG. but have shoot plenty IDPA out thier although not for some time now, my work has been preventing that.

I vote to sticky this info to the top.
Link Posted: 2/15/2004 10:24:44 AM EDT
Quoted:
NevadaARshooter,
Are you the fellow who originally turned me on to the anodize web site?
Regards, Ray
View Quote


Probably.  I've been machining receivers and anodizing them here for a few years now.

[Edited to add nice work on the documents.]
Link Posted: 3/6/2004 6:41:18 PM EDT
Excellent Work.....  It has been a big help...  Thanks
Link Posted: 3/9/2004 2:36:44 PM EDT
I started to print the pages yesterday. I just tried the site again and get the RED X. Is it just overloaded or has it been moved.
Link Posted: 3/9/2004 4:58:18 PM EDT
I just tried the link and it works fine. Go to the first message in this topic and try it yourself.
Regards, Ray
Link Posted: 3/9/2004 4:58:51 PM EDT
I just tried the link and it works fine. Go to the first message in this topic and try it yourself.
Regards, Ray
Link Posted: 3/9/2004 8:51:09 PM EDT
Ray: Great site!
Link Posted: 3/10/2004 8:54:24 AM EDT
how much many hours of labor for a good machinist???
Link Posted: 3/10/2004 11:41:19 AM EDT
Ray thanks I was able to do it by first doing save target has and then DL to my computer. The .DWG file is the only one I can't. I need to find the proper association for it.

The book and your site is great. I only wish I had 1/2 of your equipment. Thank's for the time and effort.
Link Posted: 3/10/2004 3:07:27 PM EDT
Archad,
Having done several, I think I could complete one in eight hours or less. However, the last couple I did was supervising non-machinests and then it takes about 16 to 20 hours. If you know what you are doing and have all the same tools, I think 10 to 12 hours for the first one.
Regards, Ray
Link Posted: 3/12/2004 5:43:01 PM EDT
Ray's book is very complete, the DWG is for reference.

DWG is most commonly accepted as refering to AutoDesk's AutoCAD drawing file. It is not usually avail in freeware but here is a place you can obtain a [url=http://www.infograph.com/products/dwgviewer/]free Browser pluggin to view *.DWG files[/url].
Link Posted: 3/19/2004 9:49:47 AM EDT
Great work.

Found some new ways to finish 0% lowers

Thanks foryour effort.
Link Posted: 4/10/2004 2:22:40 AM EDT
Has anyone tried powder coating a lower?
Link Posted: 4/10/2004 5:31:19 AM EDT
I am going to try Hardcoat Anodizing on an Upper & lower, I read that it is the same process as standard anodizing but the solution is kept colder & the voltage higher.
Has anyone tried this?
Link Posted: 4/10/2004 1:00:19 PM EDT
Garr,
I havn't tried it. I don't think it is necessary on AR receivers. Anyway, how does one test the hardness of a very thin coating on a soft substrate? What do you think the hardness difference is between hard coat and regular anodizing?
Regards, Ray
Link Posted: 4/10/2004 1:31:43 PM EDT
I don't know if this adds anything to this conversation, but I recently had some experience with hard anodizing.  I bought a PRI free floating handguard barrel nut.  I needed to machine it down to be like a regular barrel nut.  The anodizing dulled the crap out of my HSS lathe bit.  After I worked through the anodizing, the machining of the remaining aluminum went smoothly .  I had to reface my bit 3 times while I was working through the anodizing.

[img]http://home.earthlink.net/~tsr2/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/barrelnuttrimmed.jpg[/img]
Link Posted: 4/10/2004 3:34:08 PM EDT
ray-vin
Hard Coat Anodizing is thicker & Harder than regular anodizing, How to test its Hardness without special equipment I do not know.
Link Posted: 4/11/2004 2:26:48 PM EDT
IIRC hardcoat etches the material down a couple thousanths by reverse polarity, then puts it back as a color impregnated layer which is high in Aluminmum Oxide content (the stuff grinding wheels are made from...). Due to the etch, and build up processes the "racking" is much more critical so that parts don't get "burned" and that the amount etched=buildup.

Machining Hard anodize even eats Carbide tooling. [thinking]

A place that is really good at doing Hardcoat is a mixture of ART/Science/Voodoo.
Link Posted: 4/15/2004 6:33:30 AM EDT
Outstanding work, Ray!

Some general comments:

1) Put a 'required tools' list for the novice at the beginning, rather than the appendix. Think of it as a Haynes manual or Chilton manual " you will need the following tools."

2) on that note, if you have additional parts comments/evaluation, that might be useful as well for the utter novice (eg. I got a vise and a dremel!).

3)Note in the table of contents what the appendix is, eg "Appendix 1: Tools Used."

4) I think the hardcoat anodize is part of the mil-spec, which is why it's being discussed here.

Thanks again, it is just a class act overall, I am just suggesting some improvements for 2nd Ed. as I see it.

Link Posted: 4/15/2004 3:37:33 PM EDT
OODA,
Thanks for the feedback and the kind compliments. I will edit the index as you suggested. However, I will leave the tools list in the back for now. This book isn't intended for beginers, rather for experienced machinests. However, I know that it will be used by those just starting and that's why the tools list is there at all. I have been cutting metal since I was 14 and so that gives me 42 years of experience, and I still experiment with speeds and feeds on each new job. I guess the difference between experienced and not, is that when a journeyman breaks a cutter he knows why, when the apprentice breaks a cutter, he asks why? (grin)
 What is your level of experience, if I may ask?
Regards, Ray
Link Posted: 4/25/2004 2:50:17 AM EDT
Has anyone used my book yet to cut a lower? I was hoping for some feed back on the text and instructions.
Link Posted: 5/7/2004 2:58:04 AM EDT
Thanks to all who have replied with corrections and suggestions regarding the book. All of the corrections are spelling, so either there are no errors with the metal cutting end of it or no one has actually cut a lower following the book yet. All corrections are made and the files reposted within a day or two.

The link to the lower book site can now be found on our main site, www.ray-vin.com, and follow the links to our Tech page.

Regards, Ray
Link Posted: 5/7/2004 3:00:18 AM EDT
Just a reply to an old post.
We didn't design the GPSS bore guide. Tommy Haskins gets credit for that I think. We did manufacture them for GPSS at one time and now they are being made by First Strike.
Regards, Ray
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