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Posted: 4/28/2020 8:43:15 PM EDT
Ordered from Atlantic. No issues, shipped quickly. Came with one mag.
Pics tell most of the story. Wood is nice, but dry. I'll linseed it up later. Appears to be walnut. I thought the front sight was canted, but I guess I'm just cross eyed. Blueing and finish is excellent. Safety catch is stiff. Everything fits as it should. Receiver appears to be cut for a double hook FCG. Trigger is decent. Shot it without even cleaning off the grease cause that's how I do things. After a smokey few shots, things settled down. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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First rounds with yugo surplus. Barnaul FMJ Attached File Basically, what I expected accuracy wise. It will benefit a lot from an optic. Unfortunately, the rail is a yugo rail and will require a special mount. Attached File Attached File |
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That looks quite nice, congrats on the new purchase. How's the chrome lining look on the barrel?
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Nice rifle. That furniture will look good with some Linseed oil on it.
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Took some more pictures after wiping off the oil. Wanted to take a good look at the chrome lining. Also, some significant tool marks.
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On an AK, tool marks are character.
Wood looks good, not shinny but rich color. |
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Here is mine, all cleaned up with Ballistol on the wood. Overall, it's a pretty nice rifle. Couple things 1- Recoil spring feels so weak, I am going to swap out before shooting. 2- Alot of back and forward magazine play with a variety of surplus mags and the included steel mag, side to side movement is minimal. Hope this won't cause feeding issues. We will see. |
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Quoted: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/175932/20200430_104554_resized_jpg-1394168.JPG Here is mine, all cleaned up with Ballistol on the wood. Overall, it's a pretty nice rifle. Couple things 1- Recoil spring feels so weak, I am going to swap out before shooting. 2- Alot of back and forward magazine play with a variety of surplus mags and the included steel mag, side to side movement is minimal. Hope this won't cause feeding issues. We will see. View Quote Comparing it with my SLR-107CR, the recoil spring feels the same. |
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Ballistol is a great choice for that wood which appears to be unfinished. That's what I use on my FEG AK - wood and all. I've tried many things on the AK but Ballistol seems to do everything.
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I was looking at them too, but I remembered I had wanted a CMMG MK47 for a long time. They are priced too high right now so I decided to do nothing and see what happens in January. I guess I just don't want anything anymore that doesn't have built-in rails. I even put a rail on my AMD65 and have a dot sight on it - tremendous improvement in speed and accuracy. Still, that Zastava is a beautiful AK!
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Wish they had to finish like the Mitchell arms Yugos from the 80s. Wish I never sold mine.
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The Yugo M70b1 is one of my al-time favorite AKs. I was heart broken when they couldn't be gotten any more and the inferior nonbulged model was the only one. Always wanted to get a parts kit and have one built but then my local builder shut down. Now that these are coming in hopefully i can pick one up some day. The only think i don't like is they don't have the grenade launcher gas block. Hopefully the muzzle threads are concentric to the bore as i would love to be able to suppress one, which is one area where the grenade gas block would be fun to have.
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The grenade gas blocks were nothing but trouble for me. They often leaked and served no real purpose.
The KNS adjustable gas piston is a much better take on this for the purpose of suppressing your gun. |
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Originally Posted By kilroymcb: The grenade gas blocks were nothing but trouble for me. They often leaked and served no real purpose. The KNS adjustable gas piston is a much better take on this for the purpose of suppressing your gun. View Quote You got it wrong @kilroymcb, of course i would get a KNS piston for regular use. But the grenade gas block is supposed to cut the gas system off so it doesn't cycle the action when firing grenades. Perfect for taking single suppressed shots with some of the subsonic ammo. But you are the first person i have heard of that has complained about the gas block. Care to go into more detail? |
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Sure. I had this issue with both the Yugo SKS and the Yugo kit builds that had any corrosion in the barrels. Basically, if there was any pitting in the gas blocks, it sometimes would allow enough gas to leak that the gun became unreliable. It would sometimes work, but if you looked at it funny, rested the magazine on the deck, etc, it would short cycle or fail to pick up a round. And I understand the idea of cutting off the gas totally so you have a single shot, but when has that ever really been a thing you needed to do suppressed? With a KNS piston, you can tune it such that it has enough gas to cycle ball ammo and still reduce recoil, but not enough to even eject the casing with subsonics.
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Looks really good. The ballistol helped the wood out for sure. Hopefully the mag issue isn’t an issue, but I’m sure Zastava USA will take care of you if so. They aren’t Century or Arsenal.
Yeah, I think I need one too. |
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Put a Yugo grip on mine, looks much better. Also put another coat of Ballistol on the furniture this afternoon. The walnut stocks are growing on me but I still would like to put some Yugo furniture on it if I can find some.
Still haven't shot it yet, this Wednesday will put 100-200 rounds on it. Attached File |
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The lack of a bayonet lug sucks. I plan on picking one up and either welding on a lug or getting one of the slip on lugs. Also plan on picking up a palm swell handguard set for Yugos from Ironwood Design.
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I just saw Robski’s review.
New Import AK - 2020 Miracle! How hard is it to replace the “paper clip” with a retaining plate? I guess I should order a M70.....who knows what will happen next year. |
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very nice. the BD-2.... I have a fighter brake from Def Arms on the way for my new 1.5 mm Z-pap
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Are the buldged trunnion and thicker reciever just for durability or are there other benefits like increased accuracy due to rigidity?
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I was always under the impression they just used the thicker trunnions for durability. It doesn't really make sense that it would make the rifle more accurate. That usually comes from stiffening the barrel (making it thicker) as well as trueing the receiver and removing flex from it.. In this case, the receiver as a whole is 50% thicker, so that might be something. But other than making the gun heavier and thus reducing felt recoil, don't really see how that would help. I do believe the barrel on this one is the standard thickness.
On the other hand, I haven't noticed the milled receiver guns I've owned are more accurate than stamped. Sooo... |
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Originally Posted By themao: I just saw Robski’s review. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4wN6GRjo-I How hard is it to replace the “paper clip” with a retaining plate? I guess I should order a M70.....who knows what will happen next year. View Quote Crazy easy. Remove the safety. Take some needle nose pliers, get an end of the retainer wire, and yank it out. Get your retainer plate and drop it right where you yanked the wire out. Put the safety back in to lock the plate in place. Done. There’s probably more finesse that could be used to finagle it out but I want those bastard wires to suffer when they come out. |
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Originally Posted By Marquar: Are the buldged trunnion and thicker reciever just for durability or are there other benefits like increased accuracy due to rigidity? View Quote They were originally designed to fire rifle grenades so the rifle was beefed up with the addition of the grenade launching gas block and the locked recoil spring/receiver cover. |
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Quoted: Crazy easy. Remove the safety. Take some needle nose pliers, get an end of the retainer wire, and yank it out. Get your retainer plate and drop it right where you yanked the wire out. Put the safety back in to lock the plate in place. Done. There's probably more finesse that could be used to finagle it out but I want those bastard wires to suffer when they come out. View Quote not so easy with the Z-paps. They're using the original FCG from Yugo and still have a full auto safety. That means that you can't replace the wire the traditional way. The reason being is that the back of the yugo disconnector is too thick for the safety to clear it by swinging it up. That means that to even take off the safety you have to to take the wire shepherd's hook, pull it out from under the grooves of hte axis pins, slide the pins out, wiggle the trigger out and THEN you can swing up the safety ... now here's the kicker. You have to put the trigger in, then the axis pins and THEN the retainer plate in BEFORE you can put the safety back in (the end of the safety anchors the retainer plate)....but remember, the full auto safety won't allow you to clear the disconnector so you can't rotate it down into place. That means you have 1 of several options. 1. Replace the safety (that's what Rob did) with a semi auto safety that allows it to clear the FCG's disconnector 2. Shave down the back of the disconnector with a file 3. use a dremel or file and hack down the back of the safety selector to turn it semi-auto 4. Swap out the FCG (the Rak-1 trigger allows you to rotate past the disconnector, they have a Yugo variant that allows this on purpose) |
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Yes it is a chore to get the original FCG out.
I replaced my Yugo FCGs with RAK-1s and on reassembly the F/A safety went right in without issue and I did NOT buy the Yugo version. It also passed the safety overtravel test in the Yugo - for those who don't know some AK safeties will cause the hammer to release if they are able to travel up past the dust carrier selector stop.. |
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Originally Posted By wormraper: not so easy with the Z-paps. They're using the original FCG from Yugo and still have a full auto safety. That means that you can't replace the wire the traditional way. The reason being is that the back of the yugo disconnector is too thick for the safety to clear it by swinging it up. That means that to even take off the safety you have to to take the wire shepherd's hook, pull it out from under the grooves of hte axis pins, slide the pins out, wiggle the trigger out and THEN you can swing up the safety ... now here's the kicker. You have to put the trigger in, then the axis pins and THEN the retainer plate in BEFORE you can put the safety back in (the end of the safety anchors the retainer plate)....but remember, the full auto safety won't allow you to clear the disconnector so you can't rotate it down into place. That means you have 1 of several options. 1. Replace the safety (that's what Rob did) with a semi auto safety that allows it to clear the FCG's disconnector 2. Shave down the back of the disconnector with a file 3. use a dremel or file and hack down the back of the safety selector to turn it semi-auto 4. Swap out the FCG (the Rak-1 trigger allows you to rotate past the disconnector, they have a Yugo variant that allows this on purpose) View Quote Huh, that's interesting. Thanks for the info! Harder than standard FCGs. The price of the original FCG I guess. Probably leave that wire in there then. |
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There IS supposedly a 5th way to get the plate in. I've never tried this but I've heard several people on theakforum and akfiles mention it. What you do is remove the fcg in the convoluted way I talked about. Then when putting it in, instead of rotating the lever down and hitting the disconnector, REVERSE direction and turng the lever counter clockwise for 270 degrees and push it over the safety stop plate and back into position. Never tried that but it makes sense.
you can even take the safety out that way too. instead of rotating it up in a counter clockwise position, rotating the lever DOWN and circle around 270 degrees clockwise till it's pointed straight up. won't touch the disconnector at all. |
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Got in some more shooting today, this time with the Midwest Yugo scope mount and XPS-2.0 EOTECH. All shooting was at 50 yards, trying to get sighted in.
Which turned out to be more of a pain in the ass then I wanted. Turns out the little spring that retains the locking lever in the locked and closed position fell out before I even got to use it. While I was shooting, I noticed my groups started drifting to one side and up. I tested the mount. Sure enough, loose. I tightened the piss out of the mount and made sure the latch was closed after every shot and got a much better grouping. The Eotech sits up pretty high on this, but this was just an experiment anyway. I think a tube optic positioned just above the line of the iron sights will be the perfect way to go. Grouping improved as expected, but I don't believe these are super representative. In any case, shooting my SLR-107CR 12.5" SBR rifle next to it with a PK-01VS red dot and PBS wolverine sound suppressor, the groups were pretty comparable. Also, the twin baffle muzzle brake I got from AKOU. Holy shit, it works well. No more buttstock trying to wipe away my earmuffs. But shit are they loud. Especially after shooting a suppressed gun under a tin roof. I think you'll not have any accuracy issues with these rifles. Reliability is still 100%, including with the Unity mags which occasionally gave me trouble out of the SLR. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Glad to see your are enjoying the new Zastava Arms USA ZPAP rifle . Nice to see a solid quality rifle offered ! It would be cool if sombody started to make aftermarket stock sets in various colors .
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Made a little modification because I hate the current sling swivels. Much better and no more sling rattle.
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That's a pretty nice mod and one I don't think I've ever seen on an AK
The wood that comes on these new PAPs is really nice looking, some of the best looking wood grain I've seen on a factory AK |
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They could have done a better job with the stock fitment. Looks shrunken at the rear of the receiver, with the receiver poking below the wood.
Handguards appear to be fitted good, however. |
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Quoted: There IS supposedly a 5th way to get the plate in. I've never tried this but I've heard several people on theakforum and akfiles mention it. What you do is remove the fcg in the convoluted way I talked about. Then when putting it in, instead of rotating the lever down and hitting the disconnector, REVERSE direction and turng the lever counter clockwise for 270 degrees and push it over the safety stop plate and back into position. Never tried that but it makes sense. you can even take the safety out that way too. instead of rotating it up in a counter clockwise position, rotating the lever DOWN and circle around 270 degrees clockwise till it's pointed straight up. won't touch the disconnector at all. View Quote I've never been able to get this method to work. What I do when using a shepherds crook is: install hammer install crook install saftey drop in trigger use a punch to move crook up, then slide in trigger pin usually have to use a screw driver or a pick to then push the crook into the slot on the pin. This method is especially easy when you have a trigger assembly that is sleeved. If you don't, it just takes a little longer to get the disconnector in and the pin pushed through. |
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Quoted: That's a pretty nice mod and one I don't think I've ever seen on an AK The wood that comes on these new PAPs is really nice looking, some of the best looking wood grain I've seen on a factory AK View Quote |
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I have one of the last Century imported N-PAPs, and I had a little trouble with it right away but nothing unfixable. The carrier would hang to the back several times out of every ten shots. I found the top rails formed by the receiver were not properly trimmed, so I had to take a file and work the extra metal away. I only did this after I confirmed it shot ok, and it had the tightest group out of all AKs I have ever had - and I have had a little bit of everything. Once I got the receiver fixed, I smoothed the hammer (taking the hard corners off of the face) with a diamond file. Next step is to get a set of wood stock set, to round it out.
I will also get one of the new N-PAPs - I am working a deal on getting a Romy kit and building it - so it comes first. I am glad Zastava came direct to the US and I think we will see some good things come from them. |
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Just took mine out to the desert yesterday.
Pretty exciting Zastava brought a M70 with chrome lining. I'm impressed with it, and glad that there's another quality affordable AK available. The wood wasn't too bad either. |
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Just had my first issue with the Zastava.
I was cleaning the rifle after a day at the range. Pumped the bore full of foaming solvent and then inverted it into a bucket, as is my why. When I took it out a few minutes later, realized the detent pin was missing. Fortunately, there it was, bottom of the bucket. Spring was still inside channel. Looks like somehow the through pin didn't catch the detent. Attached File |
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