Any tips? I'll be going from 3mm to 1/8" Steel Dowels

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-new-ALLEN-HOLO-KROME-1-8-x-5-8-Standard-Dowel-Pins-Black-Lustre-01006/193309868347?pageci=85fe7099-e563-4963-823c-0d95f30baf4f

I didn't want to go with stainless since I will be cold blu-ing this.

I went a bit longer since it's a Draco Gas Block. If anyone needs 1/8" Draco pins I've got plenty to spare.

I'm thinking of going with a #31 drill bit and using a 1/8 reamer.

I had this gas block removed to reinstall a new handguard retainer and it came off easier than it should have (I didn't even need the press, a big brass punch/hammer was able to remove it..) Also the pins aren't as much of a press fit as I'd like. It's possible to rotate the gas block with the pins in with a strike from a rubber mallet enough to rotate it a few degrees.

I figure I can fix the slight can't and get a more secure fit with the gas block by using 1/8 pins.

Just curious what the best amount of I interference is though

Just realize a #31 will be bigger than a real 3mm bit so anticipate using oversized pins.

End mills also work better than tradition drill bits for barrel work. They cut straight in and don’t walk. You don’t wan to egg these holes.

I didn't get around to drilling out the barrel yet.

For research purposes. The Gas Block Journal on the M10 is .5735

I might just send it out for a front end conversion with Jmac stuff since I'm thinking of getting it cut/pinned/welded anyways.

Jmac Block/Barrel would be about $250
Labor would be about $200 but I'd have a shorter/handier rifle.

I figure I could just sell the Romanian Barrel on the EE.

Doing that to a Cugir is probably lipstick on a pig, but w/e.