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Link Posted: 2/21/2010 2:53:25 PM EDT
i pretty much followed your instructions to the T (or is it Tee?).  i think mine came out a little more purple, but that's fine by me.

Link Posted: 2/21/2010 6:18:51 PM EDT
I think yours came out a little darker than mine did, it looks good.   Mine also has a purple tint no surprise there, wine is dark purple.  I went with the wine colored Rit dye because, I did not want the candy apple red look.  I was trying to duplicate Lancaster’s Russian Red.  I think the wine colored Rit dye comes pretty close.
Link Posted: 3/4/2010 2:32:49 PM EDT
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=217938&page=97
Damn that looks very close to the Poly Tech dark purple that I've been wanting to try to re create.  Beautiful.  Now I know how I'll do it.  Thanks
Link Posted: 3/16/2010 4:15:48 AM EDT
I have two sets of furniture stripped, and bought my Rit dye this morning. If they turn out any good I'll post some pics in a few days!
Link Posted: 3/16/2010 6:47:25 AM EDT
thats a beautiful gun you got there! gotta love russian red
Link Posted: 3/20/2010 12:45:28 PM EDT
I refinished my two WASR 10's following your instructions, and think they look 100% better. Thanks for sharing those instructions...



Couldn't get any good pictures today, they really look a lot better in person. Here's what they used to look like...
Link Posted: 3/20/2010 6:06:40 PM EDT
Those came out great.  Did you have any trouble dyeing that laminated butstock on the top pictured rifle?   I tried dyeing a laminated stock set a few weeks back and couldn’t get the color to take,  I think the wood was too dense.
Link Posted: 3/21/2010 2:48:50 AM EDT
Thanks! Nope, the top set was actually just as easy as the bottom set. I had to play with the laminated set some since it didn't match very well to begin with, had to put more coats on certain parts, etc. It  soaked it right up though... I used Citristrip Gel on both sets beforehand, three coats if I recall correctly.
Link Posted: 3/21/2010 1:43:44 PM EDT
Looks good ,I used red mahogany Minnie wax
Link Posted: 3/27/2010 11:49:42 AM EDT
Got my stocks in the mail yesterday, can't wait to get on this.
Link Posted: 3/27/2010 1:37:38 PM EDT
Quoted:
Thanks for this write-up!  I re-finished one of my AK's and a set of PSL furniture that I was working on...they came out really nice, and it was EXTREMELY easy to do...here are a few pics of the final product (sorry I don't have any before/during pics...I did this when I had a nasty head cold to take up some time and wasn't int he mood to take pics...)

AK47;

In subtle light, this looks like a very dark red, but when you hit it with some light the red really pops out.  I used the wine-colored dye for the first couple of coats, then topped it off with a thin coat of the scarlet red dye to brighten it up just a bit in the right light.  I also finished it in a couple light coats of semi-gloss, it's just a bit more than a satin finish.

Pic with in-direct flash;

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4250079446_5a15142fc4_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4249306883_8fa1da64b1_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2753/4249308071_6a14a78750_b.jpg

Here is it with the flash aimed at the ceiling, so no direct bright light on it;

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4249304377_d6a187cdf4_b.jpg

Here's the PSL furniture;

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2700/4249303803_7da0e7a576_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4056/4250077748_480490cfd6_b.jpg






Btw, what type of wood is that?
Link Posted: 4/27/2010 2:34:35 PM EDT
I think "russian red" has become a catch phrase of sorts.
Link Posted: 4/27/2010 3:56:42 PM EDT
Quoted:
Thanks for this write-up!  I re-finished one of my AK's and a set of PSL furniture that I was working on...they came out really nice, and it was EXTREMELY easy to do...here are a few pics of the final product (sorry I don't have any before/during pics...I did this when I had a nasty head cold to take up some time and wasn't int he mood to take pics...)

AK47;

In subtle light, this looks like a very dark red, but when you hit it with some light the red really pops out.  I used the wine-colored dye for the first couple of coats, then topped it off with a thin coat of the scarlet red dye to brighten it up just a bit in the right light.  I also finished it in a couple light coats of semi-gloss, it's just a bit more than a satin finish.

Pic with in-direct flash;


I would love to see the psl :)

Link Posted: 4/28/2010 6:39:25 AM EDT
Just one more qucik question that no one has seemed to ask. Where can I buy the stripper and dye? Wally World be sufficient?  Just bought a SGl-21 and was already thinking some wood would be nice, but after seeing yours, I gotta atleast try it. Also I will probably be buying the Apex Bulgarian Furniture, Noticed that it does not come with a sling swivel. Any one know where to get one? Or will the one off the SGL plastic stock screw right on?

Thanks,
Shawn
Link Posted: 4/28/2010 11:17:31 AM EDT
Quoted:
Just one more qucik question that no one has seemed to ask. Where can I buy the stripper and dye? Wally World be sufficient?  Just bought a SGl-21 and was already thinking some wood would be nice, but after seeing yours, I gotta atleast try it. Also I will probably be buying the Apex Bulgarian Furniture, Noticed that it does not come with a sling swivel. Any one know where to get one? Or will the one off the SGL plastic stock screw right on?

Thanks,
Shawn


Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart for the stripper. You can usually find RIT Dye at craft and hobby stores(Michael's/Hobby Lobby) , possibly Walmart and I know some grocery stores also carry RIT dye.
Link Posted: 4/28/2010 12:47:14 PM EDT
wow great job!!
Link Posted: 5/3/2010 8:03:49 PM EDT
That looks nice!
Link Posted: 5/4/2010 9:19:13 AM EDT
I'd like to do that same thing.  I will keep the K-var US made pistoll grip.  What's the easiest part of the rifle to swap for a US made part to make it 922r compliant?  I won't bother changing the mags, just the rifle.  Thanks!  
Link Posted: 5/4/2010 12:52:36 PM EDT
If you don’t want to alter your magazines, swap out the gas piston.  That will give you 6 US made parts.

Trigger group (3)
Muzzle brake (1)
Pistol grip  (1)  
Gas piston (1)

I did not want to give up the Russian gas piston, so I altered the magazines.
Link Posted: 5/4/2010 1:41:27 PM EDT
Quoted:
If you don’t want to alter your magazines, swap out the gas piston.  That will give you 6 US made parts.

Trigger group (3)
Muzzle brake (1)
Pistol grip  (1)  
Gas piston (1)

I did not want to give up the Russian gas piston, so I altered the magazines.


Yeah, I read a bit about swapping the gas piston and it seems like more work than I'd like.  I guess I'll just have to wait for Ironwood to have a sale.    Thanks for the info.  
Link Posted: 5/5/2010 10:58:53 AM EDT
I recently refinished a Bulgy stockset for my Centerfire AK-74 using a similar method. I wrote it up to post it here an then saw this thread, so I thought I'd jsut add it on:

I did up a set of dingy Bulgarian wood using directions in a thread from SurplusRifle Forum. Candyman runs the stock care section there, and he's a wizard at restoring milsurp stocks.

Here's the before:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/radionicist/akwood.jpg

This is how the wood looked after stripping off the remnants of the old finish. I used KleenStrip, followed up with mineral spirits to remove all of the stripper. Then, after a day to dry, I did a scrub with acetone, let it dry again for a day, did a Fantastic scrub, let that dry overnight, then wiped it down with an acetone dipped rag. Why the extra steps? The acetone gets out much of the grunge, and the Fantastic (or similar cleaner) gets the dirt that is water soluble. Wood stocks hate water generally, and using acetone and straight cleaner avoids the problem of soaking the wood.

Next I prepared a RIT dye stain mix, using a combination of Scarlet Red, Dark Brown, and a hint of Black. I strain denatured alcohol through a coffee filter that holds the dye salts, and use a rag to wipe the stain on the stock. I let that dry, buff with steel wool to lighten or tone the appearance, and let sit for a few hours.

Then, I applied the first coat of boiled linseed oil by hand (though I wear gloves). I like to rub it in until the wood gets slightly warm. Here's how it looked after curing for a day:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/radionicist/akwoodafter.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/radionicist/akwoodstock.jpg

I'll wind up doing three or fout more coats, and will buff lightly between coats to increase the glossy texture. The BLO will also darken the color a bit.

This is an easy finish to experiment with, and it delivers excellent results. The only drawback is that it takes time to do right. Give it a try!


Tony
Link Posted: 5/5/2010 12:07:42 PM EDT
Wow, I like the worn, aged look.  It looks like that stock has been that color for years.   I’ve looked at using dry Rit dye and may play with it on my next project.   Thanks for sharing.    How long did you wait between coats of BLO?
Link Posted: 5/5/2010 12:43:05 PM EDT
Quoted:
Wow, I like the worn, aged look.  It looks like that stock has been that color for years.   I’ve looked at using dry Rit dye and may play with it on my next project.   Thanks for sharing.    How long did you wait between coats of BLO?


Thanks for the kind words.

I usually leave 48 hours between BLO coats, and lightly buff each coat before applying another, as it helps to build a sheen to the finish. I find a good BLO or Tung Oil finish to be very durable, and it gives a satin or glassy finish without the "plastic" look I see on some stocks finished with polyurethane.

I've found that you can alter the color of the RIT dye by buffing. For instance, this stock was darker than I wanted after the first staining, so I did some buffing with 0000 steel wool to get the shade I wanted.

Good luck!


Tony
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