Quoted: ...So, it looks like 7-12 parts maganese to 1 part acetylene (carbon) black by weight.

Interesting.  That is a higher percentage than I would have guessed.  Where did you find that little tidbit?

Quoted: Why does a steel wool biscuit need to be used?

I havent seen a real good explanation on this, but from what I have gathered, part of the parkerizing process involves creating and depositing iron phosphates.  That is, the iron in the steel wool goes into solution to be plated out on the part to be parked (along with the zinc and Manganese).  

The ratio:  http://www.freepatentsonline.com/5017445.html

Another url with some info: http://www.osti.gov/energycitations/product.biblio.jsp?osti_id=6474574

If you can understand what they are saying.IIRC the batteries I used to try these parks were used. Might need try with new batteries and more of them.

Quoted: how do you dispose of the used solution

A few ideas:

- Treat it like drano.  Small quantities down the toilet is probably the safest way to dispose of it, and you'll probably benefit a little from the reaction!  Just be careful it doesn't etch the porcelain!  I strongly recommend *NOT* disposing of gallons of Phosphoric Acid down the sewer pipes all-at-once.  You should do it a little at a time... maybe a cup or two per toilet flush?

- Don't pour it down the SS sink - it WILL leave a streak.  It also etches formica counter tops.  Ask me how I know   It will probably etch concrete as well, so watch for spills.  I think it reacts with aluminum too, but I forget now.

- It will evaporate if you leave it uncovered for long enough.  

- Acid can be neutralized by reacting with a base (remember the vinegar and baking soda trick in the corked bottle in chem class?)  SO... using enough protective gear, you could pour in some baking soda.  It released hydrogen gas so don't do this around flame sources if there are lots of bubbles.



IIRC the label usually talks about the recommended disposal methods.  While it is an acid, it is a very weak acid.  But an acid, nonetheless.  Some municipalities have regulations and laws about disposal, so check to be careful you aren't violating some local law.  

Check the MSDS sheet about disposal as well.  

hth,
- Jerry

I finally found a Lowe's that had the Jasco Prep & Prime. When I get the under folder done I'll try the real deal on it.

Quoted: Quoted: how do you dispose of the used solution A few ideas: - Acid can be neutralized by reacting with a base (remember the vinegar and baking soda trick in the corked bottle in chem class?)  SO... using enough protective gear, you could pour in some baking soda.  It released hydrogen gas so don't do this around flame sources if there are lots of bubbles.

Add the acidic mixture to the base, not the base to the mixture.  Same way you would add acid to water and not water to acid.

How about seeing some of the final results from your "Duracell" park jobs?

Go bless ARFcom.

I learn an incredible amount  from reading threads like this!

Quoted: While it is an acid, it is a very weak acid.  But an acid, nonetheless.  Some municipalities have regulations and laws about disposal, so check to be careful you aren't violating some local law.

Speaking as a guy who makes a living busting people for dumping stuff into the sewers, an individual disposing of a few gallons of this stuff is probably not going to get busted.  But you start regularly dumping phosphating solution down the drain, and you might get into trouble.  Someone could rat you out too.  More likely, you will be damaging the sewer connection from your home to the local sewer.  That lateral connection from your home can cost a lot of money to repair.  You might damage your plumbing.  IMO, it's a pretty stupid thing to do.

Best bet is to neutralize the acid with baking soda.  It's cheaper than repairing sewer pipes and plumbing.  Add baking soda a bit at a time until it stops fizzing.  If you have pH indicator paper, neutralize to pH 5 to 6, and you're good to go.  It not hard to do, and cheap insurance against a major screwup.

And if you have a septic tank, don't flush chemicals into your tank.  Bad things will happen.

I just placed an order to Brownell's, and intrestingly enough, they will provide a "how to" sheet for their Park kit, Cost= Free

It doesn't talk about percentages of chemicals, but lays out the process, not much diffent than here.

The one thing I did pick up on is that it mentions using a coffee filter to dissolve the atomized steel (Steel wool biscut for our purposes). Simply put the steel into a filter, tie it up with black wire (Re-Bar wire?) and stir the solution with it until dissolved. IIRC, approx 20min-1/2 hour.


I'm intending on using a double SS sink I have left over from a remodel. 10 minutes with the wirefeed and some scrap SS, I've got a hot rinse prep side and a solution side. For heat, I have an old propane stove, and I'll keep the hose nearby for running water to post-treat it.  Hopefully after covering it with Cosmoline, I'll get that Black-Green finish.

I've been watching this thread and wondering if I should parkerize my entire rifle (sar) with this method.  Right now I have a ceramic paint finish, but I'd like to go with parkerizing if it'll come out ok.

Anyone used this method who can post pics of the results?

Thanks in advance

tagged

Maybe there will be a pic below. I didn't take any of it right out of the park.
http://www.gunco.net/gallery/data/500/finish.jpg

"Durcell" park that was a dark gray but not black. Painted with Krylon Camo Ultra Flat black. Baked at 300 for an hour. Soaked in used diesel oil. There is still oil seeping from around the rivets. Just pressed the barrel in so that's the reason for missing pin.

Just the receiver, the rest of the finish on the dust cover and barrel are orginal.

Why screw with old batteries and the such when Allegheny Arsenal has the best looking Parkerizing bar none. Spend a few bucks get their chems and you'll have the best finish one could want.

www.mg34.com/Misc.html

Could I use Naval Jelly instead somehow?  

Originally Posted By C=Man: Why screw with old batteries and the such when Allegheny Arsenal has the best looking Parkerizing bar none. Spend a few bucks get their chems and you'll have the best finish one could want. www.mg34.com/Misc.html

Have you used it?
Can you please post some pictures?
Do you need to use a "baking" process?

Tagged, for later

Quoted: Could I use Naval Jelly instead somehow?

Can someone answer this question.... Thanks.

Quoted: Quoted: Could I use Naval Jelly instead somehow?   Can someone answer this question.... Thanks.

Naval Jelly is the wrong consistency.  I cant see it working.   You need to find a product that contains 75-85% phosphoric acid.  There are many rust removing products that have this content.  Jasco Paint Prep and Primer seems to be available to most people.   I have seen it in Home Depot and Lowes.  I've also used a product I found at Advance Auto, near the auto body supplies.  I think its called Right Stuff, or something similar.  I comes in a quart size and it is blue.

I also found this one at west marine that should work.
Rust lock

Here's a sample of a quickie park job I did on a Polish folding stock using Jasco Prep and Primer.  I diluted the Jasco to about 1 to 12 with regular tap water, brought to a soft boil, added a steel wool biscuit, waited for the biscuit to disolve, submerged the stock in the solution and then removed the stock when the fizzing stopped (about 15 - 20 minutes).  I do intend on painting with MolyResin at a later date.

That will work.  Did you take the picture in a Bordello?

Quoted: That will work.  Did you take the picture in a Bordello?

That's pretty funny.  Actually, it's my table cloth.