I picked up one of the FS2000 and while it has some interesting aspects the trigger sucks big time.

Of course I am comparing that to my PWS MK114 with a Geissele enhanced 2 stage and my LBC M4 with a Timney Combat single stage but that is the neighborhood where my guns reside and wondered if this crappy FN trigger can be replaced and if so who makes one or is an AR trigger possible.

Obviously I am in total ignorance regarding this carbine so any suggestions would be nice

If any owners have any feedback regarding ammo preferences that to would be nice.

It has an adjustable gas system and any advice regarding which ammo prefers what setting, well, nice again

Wulfmann

You can polish and remove burs, or buy a trigger mod called neu trigger and that's about it..

Fs2000s generally eat just about everything, so long as yours doesn't light strike (a small problem in some fs2000s)

The has setting should be at 12 o clock unless the ammo is so underpowered/ the rifle is so dirty it won't cycle

There's a guy on FNforum.net that removed one of the springs in the trigger group.  In the area where there is a right and left spring on each side... it directly affects the weight of the trigger.  He told me his trigger was ~4lbs.

he was a gunsmith from like arizona or new mexico or something.

Anyway I tried to do it myself but I couldn't get the damm thing out easily so I opted to sell the rifle.  If you can easily remove/replace it then it's worth doing but it will void your warranty if you ever send the rifle in with one of those springs missing.

+1 on the neu trigger.  It really does lighten up the pull and smooth it out a fair bit.

Ditto on the Neu trigger.  Still not an AR trigger, but its definitly much better.

If you are brave, you can snip off 1 or 2 rings from the twin springs at the back of the hammer group.  Do one ring from both sides at a time until you get the pull weight you desire ( cut from the forward end of the spring, not the rear).  The creep and stacking come from the force of the hammer up against the sear and as mentioned above there is a solution to that as well.  I would think that 6# trigger would be a good trade off between accuracy and safety.

EDIT:  So let's talk shorter springs.  On my hammer group I counted 15 rings to each coil.  I just snipped off 2 rings from each side.  The net result was an initial "out of the rifle" pull weight of 8#s and a final pull weight of 6.75#s.  I don't know if I would cut more than 3 from each side but 2 rings made a big difference.  Again, I counted 15 rings and now I have 13 rings per side.  You'll need wire snips to cut through these springs.  Also I did not remove the springs to cut them but I did have to remove the silver drop safety for the left side.  Simply push out the pin and keep an eye on the tiny spring.  It should not fall out but you never know.

I removed one spring from the trigger and voila, great trigger pull.

You may get uneven wear on the sear and possible twisting or binding.  IMO FNH had the right idea of twin springs but a few less coils would have made the gun exponentially better.

I'm not tracking.  Can you explain the physics of the uneven wear, twisting and binding?

If you removed one spring from one side, the spring will not have a counter force to keep the hammer dropping straight

An even number of coils removed from each side would evenly reduce spring tension and it wouldn't be lopsided

Those springs don't drop the hammer at all.  They provide resistance for the trigger rods.  The rods provide equal distribution of force because of the guides inherent to the pack.  I'm still not tracking.  Can an engineer chime in here?

You are completely right.  Those springs are not the hammer spring and have nothing to do with it.  The other poster is mistaken.

Hammer springs???  Who's talking about hammer springs???  Your both right! and FNH is completely wrong to have engineered twin springs behind the sear to balance the forces from left to right when pulling your trigger.  What the heck do they know anyway???  One spring is all you need, so lets drop it already.  You are now officially tracking.  

Cheers

I was mistaken.. I was looking at the wrong springs in a picture of my hammer pack. I was meaning to look at the trigger sear springs

Dr. Coffee,
I have one of your "Neu-triggers" in my FS2K.  If I cut a couple coils off those springs I have several questions––-

1. Will this affect the hammer hitting the primers with enough force?  My rifle suffered from this on 5.56 ammo and I have had the trigger pack replaced by FN.
2. Exactly what was the trigger #'s pull with your device and the coils cut off?

Has anyone actually shot the weapons with this modification?

The springs in the picture above are not the hammer springs so there would be no detriment to primer strike.  The hammer springs are at the pivot point of the hammer itself more forward in the hammer group.  The pictured springs above keep the sear in the forward position.  They directly affect the resistive force you feel at the trigger.  So clipping 2 coils off each side will knock off about 1.5#s and from my experience have ample force to operate the sear.  Keep in mind that these two springs are the only force keeping the sear over the hammer in the cocked position.

Thanks Dr. Coffee, I appreciate your quick response.  I may attempt this one day.

try my method, shoot the piss out of it & every thing loosens up after a while including the trigger

Shameless plug but the neu-trigger from drcoffee makes a SIGNIFICANT improvement in the feel of the trigger. It's still heavy (due to the sear springs talked about ad-nauseum above) but the break is much cleaner and without the creep associated with plastic-on-plastic.

I saw this thread and forgot I started it.

I posted this before I shot the F2K and when doing close combat style shooting I do not notice the mediocre trigger.

It shoots every ammo except the new Wolf WPA (Barnaul made).
It does not set it off.
8 of 20 rounds did not fire of the black box and 100% of the military classic did not fire.
The older Wolf (Uly made) fires 100% as does any other ammo including my reloads using Wolf primers.

Anybody else have problems with the WPA????
Anything I can look for??? (primers seem to be hit hard enough by the dent)

Wulfmann

How old is your rifle?

Mine was one of the first 1,000 and it had a recall done on the firing pin to add a spring-the sad thing is when they did that the thing would not set off 5.56 ammo-about one of every 10 rounds it would not set off the primer.
So I waited and waited, and then FN came out with another trigger pack and re-designed it again and now it works 100%.  
But my trigger got even HEAVIER with this.

Another thing to check-the firing pin channel on these gets DIRTY with powder and gunk and mine was a mess of oil, powder residue, and green looking gunk when I took it completely apart.  Yours may be dirty and restricting the firing pin movement if you are shooting any large number of rounds through it without cleaning that part.


I have DR. Coffees NeuTrigger in mine and it smooths it out as you pull it but does not lower the actual pull weight in my opinion-that is why I am intrigued by all this spring talk after 5 years of ownership I never thought to do this.

I thought the easy fix for the light primer strikes is to cut some of the coils off the firing pin spring for anti-slam fires. I cant see any ones complaint about the trigger pull, on mine, it is as smooth and easy as I want a tactical shooting trigger.  

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