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Posted: 7/13/2010 10:26:47 AM EDT
First question is when the baseboard meets your door casing do you just do a 90 degree cut and nail like I have shown in the picture(personnaly I think it looks horrible like this), miter it at 45 degrees or miter at 22 1/2 degrees and nail flush against end of door casing, caulk then paint?
Second question is when shoe molding is installed when it meets the door casing is it cut at 45 degrees or 22 1/2 degrees or maybe some other way? 
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Posted: 7/13/2010 10:33:01 AM EDT
[#1]
cut a mitered return on the base in picture #1
A mitered return on shoe mould or a 22 1/2 degree cut looks fine too the shoe mould stops at the same point the base does. By the way something looks weird in that first pic. Can you show a pic of why the casing is like that ? |
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Posted: 7/13/2010 11:14:27 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
cut a mitered return on the base in picture #1 A mitered return on shoe mould or a 22 1/2 degree cut looks fine too the shoe mould stops at the same point the base does. By the way something looks weird in that first pic. Can you show a pic of why the casing is like that ?[/quote] Exactly. It looks like that should be a door jamb there, or a cased opening of some sort, not just a piece of casing. A complete picture will help. Either way, you don't want to leave it like that. |
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Posted: 7/13/2010 11:46:11 AM EDT
[#3]
Here you go. Be gentle I have never done this type of work before
The door casing is 3 1/2" and the reveal is around 3/8" which brought the edge of the casing to the end of the wall by the stairs. I wasn't sure if I should have put a small reveal there or not. 
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Posted: 7/13/2010 12:10:10 PM EDT
[#4]
I would have narrowed the casing on that door jamb so you could come around the corner with the base moulding. The way to do it is to rip about 1/8 " off the side that attaches to the door jamb and about 1/4 " off the heavy side. All the trim on that door would get adjusted accordingly.
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Posted: 7/13/2010 12:11:17 PM EDT
[#5]
Is that an old farmhouse ? Those stairs look a bit dangerous.
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Posted: 7/13/2010 12:13:50 PM EDT
[#6]
Another option could have been to miter that baseboard back down to the floor. Similar to how you handled the skirt boards on the stairs. But my first suggestion is the best in my opinion
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Posted: 7/13/2010 12:33:55 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Another option could have been to miter that baseboard back down to the floor. Similar to how you handled the skirt boards on the stairs. But my first suggestion is the best in my opinion Agreed. I might go as far as cutting it back even with the wall end and returning it there, rather than covering the edge of the casing. |
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Posted: 7/13/2010 2:57:07 PM EDT
[#8]
In the first picture, is that just an opening with no door? That part of the wall should be finished in drywall so you could have continued the base trim into the other room.
You also could have wrapped that part with trim on all three sides then ended the base trim like the door casing in the second picture. If my eyes are fucking with me, disregard my post. :) VRMN |
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Posted: 7/13/2010 3:13:06 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
In the first picture, is that just an opening with no door? That part of the wall should be finished in drywall so you could have continued the base trim into the other room. You also could have wrapped that part with trim on all three sides then ended the base trim like the door casing in the second picture. If my eyes are fucking with me, disregard my post. :) VRMN Yes, that is a opening that goes 5 stairs down into a family room. I removed the old hollow core door and will be installing a solid wood door soon. I was going to do the same thing you suggested but we have a 10 month old who is getting mobile and decided to keep a door there until he is a few years old. |
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Posted: 7/13/2010 3:14:27 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Is that an old farmhouse ? Those stairs look a bit dangerous. I just refaced the old stairs with laminate flooring and bullnose. Its pretty solid 
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Posted: 7/13/2010 3:19:42 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted: Quoted: In the first picture, is that just an opening with no door? That part of the wall should be finished in drywall so you could have continued the base trim into the other room. You also could have wrapped that part with trim on all three sides then ended the base trim like the door casing in the second picture. If my eyes are fucking with me, disregard my post. :) VRMN Yes, that is a opening that goes 5 stairs down into a family room. I removed the old hollow core door and will be installing a solid wood door soon. I was going to do the same thing you suggested but we have a 10 month old who is getting mobile and decided to keep a door there until he is a few years old. AHHHH, My eyes WERE fucking with me (lack of paying attention). DUH!!! I thought it was just an opening going into that room (not the stairway) and capped with the door casing. Thats a tricky spot. |
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Posted: 7/13/2010 4:46:45 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Is that an old farmhouse ? Those stairs look a bit dangerous. I just refaced the old stairs with laminate flooring and bullnose. Its pretty solid From the first picture the stairs looked shallow and steep. Not a good combination. I've seen that typically in old farm houses. |
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Posted: 7/13/2010 7:23:24 PM EDT
[#13]
Use a "plinth block" in the bottom corners of the door ways.
Make s a much more "finished" look. |
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Posted: 7/15/2010 10:44:33 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
cut a mitered return on the base in picture #1 Or Quoted:
Use a "plinth block" in the bottom corners of the door ways. Make s a much more "finished" look. |
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Posted: 7/15/2010 3:09:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Mitered return would be your easiest bet. |
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Posted: 7/17/2010 2:16:01 PM EDT
[#16]
I would just use a mitered return on the end of the baseboard to return the baseboard to the wall.
As far as question #2 regarding the shoe molding, I always return it as well. Some people prefer to just cut a shallow angle on it and let it be, but I think that returning it looks much more professional. |
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