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300 Blackout Master Thread (Page 39 of 77)
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Link Posted: 1/6/2015 9:10:47 PM EDT
[#1]
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Originally Posted By DaveSpud:
One other powder Ill recommend for 150 gr. projectiles is IMR4227.  It has performed better than H110 with the 150s in my rifle.  And it is widely available in my area  You might want to try it.  

Curious: has anyone tried IMR 4227 for subsonic loads?
View Quote

9gr of 4227 with a cci small rifle primer cycles a 203gr projectile in my 8.5 inch pistol gas sbr WITH my supressor. Without it short strokes. I don't have a chrono but it's definitely subsonic.
Link Posted: 1/7/2015 5:43:42 PM EDT
[#2]
I am looking at running 190g BTHP Noslers subsonic in a 12.5 300 BO rifle with pistol gas and SDN-6.  I have not loaded any yet.  I don't see much data for 190g bullets.  Is there any issues with the 190G?  I know im giving up something compared to heavier subsonic loads but the 190s are cheaper.
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 4:03:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: smustian] [#3]
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Originally Posted By millbarge:


0.013" was correct.
SAAMI specs for a 300BLK neck: 0.334"
Projectile Diameter: 0.308"
This leaves 0.026" available for the case wall. Divide this by 2 for both sides of the neck and you're left with 0.013".

-Millbarge



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Originally Posted By millbarge:
Originally Posted By millbarge:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Anyone else notice that some brands of brass seem to expand after sizing? I've got about 5% of my cases not fitting in my Giraud Trimmer and need to be resized...

Seems like its all foreign ammo made in Europe
No, what headstamps?  


S&B
ATI 09
MKE 08
AZ (Nato Cross) 93


I resized them again, and half still wouldn't fit. Not sure if I need to readjust my die for those casings, but I tossed them. I wasn't wasting anymore time.


It sounds like you're running into a known issue of the case wall of the 5.56 brass being too thick for in-spec 300BLK brass. If the case walls (now the neck of the 300BLK round) are thicker than 0.013" (I believe it's 0.013 - I'll verify and update the post) you'll likely have problems chambering the round.  It's fortunate that your trimmer found the issue for your before you loaded the round.

Lake City, Federal, Hornady, Remmington brass have all worked fine for me. Though I try to stay all Lake City for my conversion brass.

-Millbarge


0.013" was correct.
SAAMI specs for a 300BLK neck: 0.334"
Projectile Diameter: 0.308"
This leaves 0.026" available for the case wall. Divide this by 2 for both sides of the neck and you're left with 0.013".

-Millbarge





List of good and bad brass.      http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=88599
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 5:13:29 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By smustian:


List of good and bad brass.      http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=88599
View Quote

Thats a great resource thanks!

Link Posted: 1/8/2015 5:17:45 PM EDT
[#5]
So I fucked up bad last night, my mini chop saw's adjustment changed somehow in the past week. 600+ casings were chopped .03-.04" shorter then they should have. So instead of the brass being around 1.350" They were sizing around 1.310" +


So now I really wanted to toss it, because I'm not going to have the time to try a few then decide. Its either load them or toss them.

So this made me think.... )Especially with subs as thats what I was using these for) If the neck is reduced by 15-20% in length, how does that actually effect the cartridge?

My questions:

Would it causing sealing issues leading to a dirty chamber and extraction issues?
Would it become dangerous due to to lesser neck tension, even with a crimp, possibly causing excessive bullet setback?
Would it somehow cause the projectile to leave the barrel unstable? - I really think that is a far stretch, but definitely a concern with a suppressor.
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 6:16:35 PM EDT
[#6]
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Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
So I fucked up bad last night, my mini chop saw's adjustment changed somehow in the past week. 600+ casings were chopped .03-.04" shorter then they should have. So instead of the brass being around 1.350" They were sizing around 1.310" +


So now I really wanted to toss it, because I'm not going to have the time to try a few then decide. Its either load them or toss them.

So this made me think.... )Especially with subs as thats what I was using these for) If the neck is reduced by 15-20% in length, how does that actually effect the cartridge?

My questions:

Would it causing sealing issues leading to a dirty chamber and extraction issues?
Would it become dangerous due to to lesser neck tension, even with a crimp, possibly causing excessive bullet setback?
Would it somehow cause the projectile to leave the barrel unstable? - I really think that is a far stretch, but definitely a concern with a suppressor.
View Quote


I actually did something very similar. with a group of brass I was cutting.  mine are about 1.330 give or take.  I have not had any issues that I have been able to notice loading subs or supers.  just had to adjust for bullets with a cannalure.
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 6:25:31 PM EDT
[#7]
I was good ng to keep the coal the same...  my only other thought, is they arent really going to stretch so im going to have to sort them out next time I reload to keep them in the same lot
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 10:55:30 PM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 10:56:20 PM EDT
[#9]
If you ever get commercial ammo do not use ficocci.  It is beyond garbage.  Even tried to put it through a Sheridan slotted gauge and it would not drop all the way.
Link Posted: 1/8/2015 11:18:50 PM EDT
[#10]
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Originally Posted By Vandy58:
If you ever get commercial ammo do not use ficocci.  It is beyond garbage.  Even tried to put it through a Sheridan slotted gauge and it would not drop all the way.
View Quote

I've had issues with Fiocci's 7.62x39 brass.  It doesn't like to fit in my Wilson case gauge, mostly at the head end.  Other than that, it's nice brass.
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 9:11:36 AM EDT
[#11]
Have a question, I am new to reloading I have been reading and reading and my question is kinda long for the search LOL. Gave me no results.  Ok I have a 16 inch barrel and it has a pistol length gas tube trying to find out load data for it.

I will be using .223 brass cut down and resized  I will anneal them, I have 150 grain nosler ballistic tip bullets with CCI small rifle primers trying to figure which powder to use and grains per bullet. I figure the gas port length will have some effect no suppressor yet LOL soon I hope.

I have seen people using H110 powder but that seems to be for lighter bullets and the lilgun for for the heavier stuff.

This will used for hunting also if that has any bearing.

                                                                       Thanks
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 10:51:37 AM EDT
[#12]
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Originally Posted By roboto65: I have 150 grain nosler ballistic tip bullets with CCI small rifle primers trying to figure which powder to use and grains per bullet. I figure the gas port length will have some effect no suppressor yet LOL soon I hope.

I have seen people using H110 powder but that seems to be for lighter bullets and the lilgun for for the heavier stuff.

This will used for hunting  
View Quote


First off, you should consult a few loading data books or databases. Hodgdon's had load data for 150gr pills and H110 powder if you take the time to go look.

Secondly, a pistol length gas system running supers will be a little harder on your bcg than you really want to do on a regular basis. I'm not saying you'll have any catastrophic failures but you'll wear it faster than you need to. An adjustable gas block will cure this if you have the ability to install one.

Lastly, what are you planning to hunt with the 150s? Remember you need expansion of the bullet for a clean and quick kill. I don't know of any 150s that will expand reliably at 300blk speeds. You'd be better served by going to some lighter, proven options such as the 125 gr Nosler or 110 gr black tips.
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 12:05:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: roboto65] [#13]
Yep looked that up but with the pistol tube I was unsure. I will be hunting Hog with this round I will get some lighter bullets then, 125 is fine by me had in my head 30/30 round so got the 150s at the time.

It gave me this Hodgdon
H110
.308"
2.235" COL
15.0  Starting
1,785
38,000 CUP
16.2  Max
1,901
47,700 CUP
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 12:27:18 PM EDT
[#14]
Nosler Ballistic Tips are designed to expand starting as low as 1800 fps.
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 3:53:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3] [#15]
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 11:02:16 PM EDT
[#16]
Ok will look those up and see if I can get some for when I am home this time.

Thanks for the advice everyone.
Link Posted: 1/10/2015 9:36:52 AM EDT
[#17]
I double checked this, and Hodgdon recommends not reducing H110 loads more than 3% from published minimums...which reminded me about issues with loading .30 Carbine with H110.  Yes, it is touchy stuff, and that's probably why you can find wildly different recommended starting and maximum loads published all over the place.  I had H110 on hand for .30 Carbine, and it's a good powder for that - in standardized, Carbine, M1 loads - but I'm glad I don't "depend" on it.  All the more reason to get Lil Gun if I could just find it.  It looks like Lil Gun is also a good powder for .30 Carbine, so that's probably where I'm headed.
Link Posted: 1/11/2015 8:29:27 PM EDT
[#18]
Well I just got back from testing my 300 blackout pistol and Form 1 can I built this week. I loaded up some 190 gr SMK's using 10.5-11 gr of 5744 and am pleased to announce it is a subsonic load and will
cycle the actio suppressed and unsuppressed. The pistol has an 8.5" PSA melonite barrel I bought during their blowout sale also a spikes ST-T2 buffer, regular carbine spring and a white oak armament
stainless gas block. I had my buddy stand around 3 feet from the ejection port side of the rifle while I fired two shots and both registered 95 DB using the JL Audio SPL app on my iphone. I must say I am
impressed and so was my buddy this is my new favorite round and setup now to just SBR the pistol!
Link Posted: 1/11/2015 10:30:29 PM EDT
[#19]
Because the one "OK" powder I have for Blackout isn't very "OK" with the 150gr FMJs I have, and because I have a ton of .30 Carbine 110gr FMJs on hand, I thought I'd see if I could make this work.  I'd heard (here, in fact) that there were feeding issues, so I put together 5 dummy rounds with a COAL of 1.795" using my carbine bullets, and they fed (hand cycled, of course) from a PMAG.  I'm going to load up a few of these just to see if they work at all "live," and I'll report back.

I finished converting a second batch of 200+ cases to 300 Blackout today, and I'm going to start messing around with load development.  Using Hodgdon's data for H110 and 110gr VMax bullets as a starting point, I'll make up probably 20 rounds with increments from 18.8gr to 19.4gr (0.2gr steps) of H110.  I'll be using a Lee FCD to give the bullets a light crimp.
Link Posted: 1/11/2015 11:01:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Link Posted: 1/12/2015 12:03:45 PM EDT
[#21]
I found some IMR 4227 would that be any better than the H110 for the 150 grain bullet  Hodgens website say the stats are about the same but the IMR has a few more grains added to the mix but the pressures and velocity are about the same.  Wish I could find some Lilgun but no luck so far also LOL
Link Posted: 1/12/2015 12:37:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: azlester] [#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By roboto65:
I found some IMR 4227 would that be any better than the H110 for the 150 grain bullet  Hodgens website say the stats are about the same but the IMR has a few more grains added to the mix but the pressures and velocity are about the same.  Wish I could find some Lilgun but no luck so far also LOL
View Quote

Did you look at Nosler site for load info??? Sierra has published loads for their 150-155gr bullets on their site.
The 4227 should work fine. It's just that 110 can be kind of spikey pressure wise with heavier bullets.
Link Posted: 1/12/2015 12:59:46 PM EDT
[#23]
Yep looked at Noslers site but not much there for 300BLK well for the 150 grain hunting bullet anyway closest was the 140. I will pick some 4227 up then I can use the 110 when I get some smaller bullets next time off.
Link Posted: 1/13/2015 12:07:48 AM EDT
[#24]
Sierra has inv=formation on 150 and 155 grain bullets on there web page.  Just start 10% down and work your way up.
Link Posted: 1/13/2015 12:22:07 AM EDT
[#25]
I have a 8.5" noveske barreled SBR w/ can.  I am wanting to load some subsonics using Hornady 208 gr amax bullets (already have these).  I have both lil'gun and A1680 and am finding load data for both.  which is a better powder for subs, lil'gun or 1680?  and just as importantly, why?

Also why aren't the 300 blk loads that people have listed here in the excel sheet that is pinned at the top of the forum?

thx
Link Posted: 1/17/2015 8:47:47 AM EDT
[#26]
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Originally Posted By Vandy58:
If you ever get commercial ammo do not use ficocci.  It is beyond garbage.  Even tried to put it through a Sheridan slotted gauge and it would not drop all the way.
View Quote


I picked up a couple boxes of Fiocchi on sale.  Eight rounds wouldn't drop into my Sheridan but they fed and fired just fine.  It does appear to be loaded kinda hot though as the primers were slightly flattened, definitely moreso than my handloads.
Link Posted: 1/17/2015 10:03:44 PM EDT
[#27]
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Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Basic 147-150 grain FMJs work too.  My "free time" budget has been busted since early November, but I'm planning to try out my 8" upper with 150s over H110 really soon...unless I can find Lil' Gun at the funshow this weekend.
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Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By jokker1978:
Originally Posted By bigplayer2382:
Originally Posted By garyd:

It is a re-loaders dream.  can be made for easily obtained .223/5.56 brass, and can be loaded with any 30 caliber bullet out there and there are most likely more 30 caliber bullets then any other.


I just built a 300 black out and havent started to try and reload it yet though. How cheap can you find the 30 caliber bullets for? I thought they were expensive as shit



I use the extreme 150gr flat nose they are about 51$ for 500.
I've heard good things about the zombie 13 ones too.
Basic 147-150 grain FMJs work too.  My "free time" budget has been busted since early November, but I'm planning to try out my 8" upper with 150s over H110 really soon...unless I can find Lil' Gun at the funshow this weekend.


I finally got my load data in front of me. This is how I am loading my 150s
150gr Hornady Interlock
15.8gr H110
CCI 400 primer
2.11" OAL
Link Posted: 1/17/2015 10:30:28 PM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By tcoz73:


I picked up a couple boxes of Fiocchi on sale.  Eight rounds wouldn't drop into my Sheridan but they fed and fired just fine.  It does appear to be loaded kinda hot though as the primers were slightly flattened, definitely moreso than my handloads.
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Originally Posted By tcoz73:
Originally Posted By Vandy58:
If you ever get commercial ammo do not use ficocci.  It is beyond garbage.  Even tried to put it through a Sheridan slotted gauge and it would not drop all the way.


I picked up a couple boxes of Fiocchi on sale.  Eight rounds wouldn't drop into my Sheridan but they fed and fired just fine.  It does appear to be loaded kinda hot though as the primers were slightly flattened, definitely moreso than my handloads.


I found the brass to be hardly worth picking up too.
Link Posted: 1/19/2015 11:12:53 PM EDT
[#29]
Just loaded some 150 grain Noslers  with H110 15.5 grains First time shooting my 300 and they are great cycle fine brass looks good do not have a chrono so do not know speed but loaded 50 so far and loving it. Shot it in my 16 inch barrel with a pistol gas tube worked great.
Link Posted: 1/19/2015 11:49:16 PM EDT
[#30]
Keep hearing great things about the 300 blackout... considering one, but it seems factory ammo is running about $0.70 to $1 a shot.
Seems the last several pages have a few guys claiming to have costs down to 10 cents a shot?! I'm not too caught up on the jargon yet, but I'm assuming they're reusing .223 brass to get it down to that cost. How beginner friendly is it to modify/check .223 brass for 300 blackout? Assuming I can reuse the prvi partizan brass I have saved up, can I also reload 300 blackout for about 10 cents a shot?
Link Posted: 1/20/2015 12:27:49 AM EDT
[#31]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Johnson184:


Keep hearing great things about the 300 blackout... considering one, but it seems factory ammo is running about $0.70 to $1 a shot.

Seems the last several pages have a few guys claiming to have costs down to 10 cents a shot?! I'm not too caught up on the jargon yet, but I'm assuming they're reusing .223 brass to get it down to that cost. How beginner friendly is it to modify/check .223 brass for 300 blackout? Assuming I can reuse the prvi partizan brass I have saved up, can I also reload 300 blackout for about 10 cents a shot?
View Quote
I'm perfectly fine running around 40-50c per round (subsonic). I use 220gr SMK and 208gr A-Max. You can get lower costs with cast bullets (e.g. check BlackoutBrass.com - which, admittedly, I'm going to grab a bag and test them out)
With 3-4c per primer, 3-4c for powder (~10 grains) that leaves 2-4c for the bullet. I'm not sure how people are getting that low unless they are doing huge bulk orders and/or casting their own.





 
There's a thread here that lists the brass that you can safely convert and still have it chamber. With some brass the case wall is too thick >0.013" which will make it not chamber. As long as you have convert-able brass it's as simple as cutting the 223 neck off, putting it through the 300BLK sizing die and trimming to length.




I don't see 300BLK as a budget round and acceptable the cost of playing with it before I built it and filed for the NFA items.




-Millbarge




I don't run supersonic often - but when I do I just use the 1200 150grain SP Hornady bullets I got through rebates. Those will last me a really long time.



Link Posted: 1/20/2015 1:34:29 AM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By millbarge:
I'm perfectly fine running around 40-50c per round (subsonic). I use 220gr SMK and 208gr A-Max. You can get lower costs with cast bullets (e.g. check BlackoutBrass.com - which, admittedly, I'm going to grab a bag and test them out)With 3-4c per primer, 3-4c for powder (~10 grains) that leaves 2-4c for the bullet. I'm not sure how people are getting that low unless they are doing huge bulk orders and/or casting their own.
  There's a thread here that lists the brass that you can safely convert and still have it chamber. With some brass the case wall is too thick >0.013" which will make it not chamber. As long as you have convert-able brass it's as simple as cutting the 223 neck off, putting it through the 300BLK sizing die and trimming to length.


I don't see 300BLK as a budget round and acceptable the cost of playing with it before I built it and filed for the NFA items.

-Millbarge

I don't run supersonic often - but when I do I just use the 1200 150grain SP Hornady bullets I got through rebates. Those will last me a really long time.

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Originally Posted By millbarge:
Originally Posted By Johnson184:
Keep hearing great things about the 300 blackout... considering one, but it seems factory ammo is running about $0.70 to $1 a shot.
Seems the last several pages have a few guys claiming to have costs down to 10 cents a shot?! I'm not too caught up on the jargon yet, but I'm assuming they're reusing .223 brass to get it down to that cost. How beginner friendly is it to modify/check .223 brass for 300 blackout? Assuming I can reuse the prvi partizan brass I have saved up, can I also reload 300 blackout for about 10 cents a shot?
I'm perfectly fine running around 40-50c per round (subsonic). I use 220gr SMK and 208gr A-Max. You can get lower costs with cast bullets (e.g. check BlackoutBrass.com - which, admittedly, I'm going to grab a bag and test them out)With 3-4c per primer, 3-4c for powder (~10 grains) that leaves 2-4c for the bullet. I'm not sure how people are getting that low unless they are doing huge bulk orders and/or casting their own.
  There's a thread here that lists the brass that you can safely convert and still have it chamber. With some brass the case wall is too thick >0.013" which will make it not chamber. As long as you have convert-able brass it's as simple as cutting the 223 neck off, putting it through the 300BLK sizing die and trimming to length.


I don't see 300BLK as a budget round and acceptable the cost of playing with it before I built it and filed for the NFA items.

-Millbarge

I don't run supersonic often - but when I do I just use the 1200 150grain SP Hornady bullets I got through rebates. Those will last me a really long time.



hehe, I actually set aside all my 30 cal rebate bullets for my M1 garand, I won';t let the 300 touch them

right now I am using 208 amax for subs and looking for something cheap in the 110 range for supers.  I saw at one time RMR had some 30 cal bullets for 300 blk but they are off their page right now (aka, out of stock).  I need to run down to the sierra plant when I have more free $$ and pick up seconds
Link Posted: 1/20/2015 1:38:38 AM EDT
[#33]
since it was nice there this weekend i decided to do some testing.  i wanted to work up some subsonic loads using 208g amax.  these are going to be just for fun shooting and/or practice/drills.  i decided i want to aim for somewhere between 1050 and 1075 fps.  all test are 5 shot groups unless i state otherwise.  i don't have targets becouse the duffices next to me i found out where also shooting at my targets.....   here is the chrono data got:

Gun: custom built
-8.2" 1:7 noveske (1 yr old barrel, i have not done anything with the gas port)
-standard carbine spring and regular (non-h) buffer
-GI buffer tube
-nib bolt and full auto carrier
-silencerco flash hinder (i was not using my can all weekend)
-chrono, magnetospeed strapped to my noveske keymod handguard (got some reading errors but for the most part it was seemed to be working good)
-brass, virgin formed by ozark ordinance.  all i did with it was clean it
-bullets, hornady 208 amax
-primers, CCI #41 (my standard rifle primers)
-range info: elevation 853, OAT 52 F

first run using lil'gun.  i was really hopeful that this would work.  it burns cleaner than a1680, uses slightly less powder, and some people were reporting they were getting it to work.
lil'gun, COAL 2.120
7.8 gr, 1085 hi, 1068 lo, 1077 avg, 17 es, 6 sd - note: short stroked and didn't hold the bolt open
8.0 gr, 1112 hi, 1082 lo, 1094 avg, 30 es, 10.9 sd - note: short stroked and bolt caught magazine but not bolt catch
8.2 gr, 1141 hi, 1114 lo, 1126 avg, 27 es, 14.2 ad - note: short stroked and didn't hold the bolt open (4 shot group).  primers were starting to flatten

well....not what i was hoping for.  the 7.8 was nice but won't function the gun without can.  i don't want to have ammo that will not work without the can.  next up a1680.

a1680, COAL 2.150
10.6 gr - due to my error i only got i shot on the chrono, 963 fps - note: no short stroke and bolt caught mag catch
10.8 gr - 1024 hi, 1015 lo, 1019 avg, 9 es, 4.2 sd - note: no short stroke and bolt caught mag catch (4 shot group)
11 gr - 1072 hi, 1017 lo, 1046 avg, 55 es, 24.4 sd - note: no short stroke and bolt caught mag catch

so for now it looks like my load will be 10. gr a1680.  it is a little slower than i was wanting but it will work.  if i can find some a5744 i will try it but i haven't seen any anywhere.  I am starting to wonder if a cleaner burning powder will even work.  a1680 is really gassy and it most likely the reason the gun function correctly.
Link Posted: 1/20/2015 2:15:28 AM EDT
[Last Edit: millbarge] [#34]



Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ws-6:

*snip*
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I'm running something very similar and I tested 208 A-Max with A1680 today too. Except I ran suppressed (no cycling issues).

I'll use the same layout you did.







-8.5" 1:7 noveske (no changes to gas port)


-JP Silent Captured buffer (no tungsten rings)


-GI buffer tube


-silencerco flash hider


-silencerco SpecWar762


-chrony beta master


-brass, Lake City converted


-bullets, hornady 208 amax


-primers, CCI #41


-range info: elevation 911 (higher than I thought), 70 F







All strings were 10 rounds







A1680, COAL 2.200"


9.8 gr -   997 hi,  946 low,   974 avg, 51 es, 18.86 sd


10.0 gr - 1001 hi,  961 low,   983 avg, 40 es, 10.58 sd


10.2 gr - 1027 hi,  979 low,  1004 avg, 48 es, 13.67 sd


10.4 gr - 1040 hi, 1016 low, 1026 avg, 24 es,  7.61 sd


10.6 gr - 1059 hi, 1021 low, 1039 avg, 38 es, 14.31 sd







I also ran a few


220SMK


A1680, COAL 2.100"


10.5 gr - 1076 hi, 1024 low, 1047 avg, 52 es, 17.66 sd







and my old loads using:


220SMK  


IMR4198, COAL 2.100"


9.5 gr - 1020 hi,  970 low,  994 avg, 50 es, 17.20 sd







I've only run about 100 rounds using A1680 and I also noticed how gassy it was. IMR4198 isn't nearly as gassy and still cycles everything fine. Problem is that it's a pain to meter consistently.





 
Link Posted: 1/23/2015 2:55:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rob99rt] [#35]
Took some max OAL measurements with a couple methods somebody posted in here (I think) about using a cleaning rod and fine-point marker to find the max oal of the bullet (where it would be hitting the rifling lands) along with the second method which uses a fired case and a bullet coated in black marker, putting it in a case, and then using the BCG to push it in.  For the second method I had to tap a couple bullets out with the rod, and then I re-inserted it into the case up to the point that the marker was scraped off, and then measured the distance.  The case was a factory .300 blackout case that measured at 1.358" that has been fired (and trimmed) a few times.

This is on my Core15 9.5" SS upper and an old Bushmaster bolt carrier (I think)...  This was as close to the measurements as I could get them and when I checked the measurement of the dummy bullet with the 245 grain Missouri bullet loaded up, I was within a few thousands, so I figured it was fairly close since many folks rely on this method of measuring.

First....
actual bullet length:

Barnes 110 grain blue tips:  1.044"  (listed as 1.047" on Barnes' site)
Barnes 110 grain black tips:  1.178" (listed as 1.175" on Barnes' site)
Reformed 150 grain bullets from FatMcNasty (used to be 150 grain plated flat-points):  .987"  (the batch he sent me varies a little bit, but not much)
Missouri 245 grain coated lead bullets:  1.336" (no length listed on their site)
Sierra 220 grain SMK:  1.499"


What I load them to (OAL), typically, in cases I trim to 1.353-1.358":

Barnes blue tips:  2.08" (using .25" hole method)
Barnes black tips:  2.25" (per Barnes)
150 grain reformed plated bullets:  2.032" (using .25" hole method)
Missouri 245 grain coated lead:  2.135"
Sierra 220 grain SMK:  2.120"


Measured with the rod:
Measured from the tip of the bullet when the lands are touching the bullet to the face of the BCG:
Barnes 110 grain blue tips:  2.345"
Barnes 110 grain black tips:  2.450"
Reformed 150's:  2.255"
Missouri Bullet 245 grain lead:  2.060"


How I did it:
I first marked the rod as it was resting against the face of the bolt carrier and then shoved a bullet in the chamber and a spacer behind it to ensure it was seated firmly against the rifling.  I then marked the rod and took a measurement between the two spots.  The results are posted above.  Now, the first 3 I can understand... I load the blue tips to 2.08", so they're WAY off the lands, and even the black tips are .20" off the lands.  Even the 150 grain reformed bullets, which I load to 2.032" were  .223" off the lands.  But the weird one was the 245 grain bullet.  I load those to an OAL of 2.135", so according to the measurements above, I'm .095" into the lands.  I confirmed this by checking a loaded bullet that I let the BCG slam forward and seat, and it had some faint rifling marks in the bullet coating.  FWIW, the blue tips and 150 grain reformed bullets were loaded to the listed OALs above by using a .25" hole drilled in a piece of sheetmetal, a bullet spun in it, and then I pressed it into the case until it was 1.70" from the case head.


And now... with the marker on the bullet/pushing BCG forward gently method:

Barnes blue tips:  2.341" (and it was BARELY into the case, too)
Barnes black tips:  2.450"
The reformed 150's:  2.273" (and it was in the case only about .090"
The 245 grain Missouri bullets:  2.133"
Sierra 220 grain SMK:  2.316" (didn't use the rod on this one.... forgot I had them until after I'd finished all the others)

So, what did I learn...  The black tips are about .200" off the lands according to both measurements, so that's a pretty good jump.  They're pretty accurate in my SBR over 20 grains of W296/H110 and I've shot 3 rounds into nickel-size groups at 50 yards with it using a 1-4X scope turned up to 4X several times.  The blue tips have around a .261" jump to the rifling.  I've shot these and they hit 1 3/4" straight right at 50 yards compared to the tac-tsx load (also over 20 grains of W296/H110).  So, anytime I shoot them I just dial in 7 clicks left (1/2" @100 yard clicks) and it's on.  Odd they shoot so far to the right, but dead even in height, though...

The reformed 150's have just been plinking rounds so far and I'm still working on a load with Lil'gun, so I don't really have a good accuracy feel for them.  They shoot more of a 4" pattern at 50 yards with the loads I've used so far (14.3-14.6 of Lil'Gun), though, with the loads I've tried, and it could be that the .241" jump to the lands is hurting it...  Who knows?  I'll play with them.

The 245 grain Missouri bulelts are right up against the lands as they are currently, and unfortunately I have feeding issues every now and then with them at 2.135" in my gun.  I loaded up a few dummy rounds at 2.155" and they all cycled fine and didn't push back any into the case, so I *might* go that route and just deal with them being pushed into the rifling a bit.  I'm only using 8.3 grains of Lil'Gun, so they're not loaded hot by any stretch.

The load that everybody recommends with the 220 grain SMKs are .196" off the lands in my rifle... They weren't all that accurate, IMO, with the loads I've tried (not the dime-size groups everybody brags about anyway), but I've only tried a couple different Lil'Gun loads so far.  I haven't found any A1680 around here to try yet.

Anyway.. I may play a little bit with the OAL of the black tips to try to get them a little closer to the lands and see if the accuracy goes up any (doubtful), but I'm not sure the 110 grain blue tips are going to get helped all that much.  Even if I seated it in the first groove on the bullet, that would give it an OAL of 2.21", which only puts about .200" into the case mouth.  If it's enough to keep it seated ok and doesn't get pushed back when going up the feed ramp and then pulled out when it slams forward into the chamber, then that would only put it .131" off the lands, much closer than when loaded to 2.08".

Will be interesting to see how OAL changes and getting closer to lands will help (or hurt) accuracy.  Does anybody have any concern with doing that, or should I just keep it further off than that for safety's sake?  I've read on a few sites that said the Barnes ttsx bullets seem to shoot better further off the lands (read several folks say they were in the .120 to .150 range and getting good accuracy.  .261" off the lands for the blue-tips, though... that's a LONG way off.
Link Posted: 1/23/2015 10:02:04 PM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By millbarge:
I'm perfectly fine running around 40-50c per round (subsonic). I use 220gr SMK and 208gr A-Max. You can get lower costs with cast bullets (e.g. check BlackoutBrass.com - which, admittedly, I'm going to grab a bag and test them out)With 3-4c per primer, 3-4c for powder (~10 grains) that leaves 2-4c for the bullet. I'm not sure how people are getting that low unless they are doing huge bulk orders and/or casting their own.
  There's a thread here that lists the brass that you can safely convert and still have it chamber. With some brass the case wall is too thick >0.013" which will make it not chamber. As long as you have convert-able brass it's as simple as cutting the 223 neck off, putting it through the 300BLK sizing die and trimming to length.


I don't see 300BLK as a budget round and acceptable the cost of playing with it before I built it and filed for the NFA items.

-Millbarge

I don't run supersonic often - but when I do I just use the 1200 150grain SP Hornady bullets I got through rebates. Those will last me a really long time.

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Originally Posted By millbarge:
Originally Posted By Johnson184:
Keep hearing great things about the 300 blackout... considering one, but it seems factory ammo is running about $0.70 to $1 a shot.
Seems the last several pages have a few guys claiming to have costs down to 10 cents a shot?! I'm not too caught up on the jargon yet, but I'm assuming they're reusing .223 brass to get it down to that cost. How beginner friendly is it to modify/check .223 brass for 300 blackout? Assuming I can reuse the prvi partizan brass I have saved up, can I also reload 300 blackout for about 10 cents a shot?
I'm perfectly fine running around 40-50c per round (subsonic). I use 220gr SMK and 208gr A-Max. You can get lower costs with cast bullets (e.g. check BlackoutBrass.com - which, admittedly, I'm going to grab a bag and test them out)With 3-4c per primer, 3-4c for powder (~10 grains) that leaves 2-4c for the bullet. I'm not sure how people are getting that low unless they are doing huge bulk orders and/or casting their own.
  There's a thread here that lists the brass that you can safely convert and still have it chamber. With some brass the case wall is too thick >0.013" which will make it not chamber. As long as you have convert-able brass it's as simple as cutting the 223 neck off, putting it through the 300BLK sizing die and trimming to length.


I don't see 300BLK as a budget round and acceptable the cost of playing with it before I built it and filed for the NFA items.

-Millbarge

I don't run supersonic often - but when I do I just use the 1200 150grain SP Hornady bullets I got through rebates. Those will last me a really long time.




Avoid blackoutbrass.com.  I was going to try them too.   Ordered on January 2nd, still haven't seen any product,  no emails or voice mails answered,  I'm filing a claim with the CC company to get my money back.
Link Posted: 1/24/2015 12:10:16 AM EDT
[#37]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
Avoid blackoutbrass.com.  I was going to try them too.   Ordered on January 2nd, still haven't seen any product,  no emails or voice mails answered,  I'm filing a claim with the CC company to get my money back.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:



Originally Posted By millbarge:


Originally Posted By Johnson184:

Keep hearing great things about the 300 blackout... considering one, but it seems factory ammo is running about $0.70 to $1 a shot.

Seems the last several pages have a few guys claiming to have costs down to 10 cents a shot?! I'm not too caught up on the jargon yet, but I'm assuming they're reusing .223 brass to get it down to that cost. How beginner friendly is it to modify/check .223 brass for 300 blackout? Assuming I can reuse the prvi partizan brass I have saved up, can I also reload 300 blackout for about 10 cents a shot?
I'm perfectly fine running around 40-50c per round (subsonic). I use 220gr SMK and 208gr A-Max. You can get lower costs with cast bullets (e.g. check BlackoutBrass.com - which, admittedly, I'm going to grab a bag and test them out)With 3-4c per primer, 3-4c for powder (~10 grains) that leaves 2-4c for the bullet. I'm not sure how people are getting that low unless they are doing huge bulk orders and/or casting their own.

  There's a thread here that lists the brass that you can safely convert and still have it chamber. With some brass the case wall is too thick >0.013" which will make it not chamber. As long as you have convert-able brass it's as simple as cutting the 223 neck off, putting it through the 300BLK sizing die and trimming to length.





I don't see 300BLK as a budget round and acceptable the cost of playing with it before I built it and filed for the NFA items.



-Millbarge



I don't run supersonic often - but when I do I just use the 1200 150grain SP Hornady bullets I got through rebates. Those will last me a really long time.









Avoid blackoutbrass.com.  I was going to try them too.   Ordered on January 2nd, still haven't seen any product,  no emails or voice mails answered,  I'm filing a claim with the CC company to get my money back.
ugh - please keep us updated on your order and/or refund.
Has anyone else here had bad service like this?

 



-Millbarge
Link Posted: 1/24/2015 12:23:50 AM EDT
[#38]
Take a look over on the 300 BLK  forum.   I am sadly not alone...
Link Posted: 1/24/2015 5:28:56 PM EDT
[#39]
don't know what you ordered but I got my brass from Ozark Ordinance.  my gun likes it so far (noveske barrel) and it seems to be in spec.  the website is showing out of stock right now but they make it onsite so I would guess they would have more soon.

I decided when I first got the gun that I am just going to buy processed brass and not form my own.  I don't have the time to process it all and it seems to be well worth it to just pay someone else to do it
Link Posted: 1/24/2015 6:35:47 PM EDT
[#40]
I really wan't looking for brass from them as I do form my own.  I was looking more at their big heavy cast and coated bullets.
Link Posted: 1/24/2015 10:51:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mcooper] [#41]
nevermind.
Link Posted: 1/24/2015 11:48:21 PM EDT
[#42]
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 12:42:49 AM EDT
[#43]
apologies.
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 1:17:20 AM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By roboto65:
Just loaded some 150 grain Noslers  with H110 15.5 grains First time shooting my 300 and they are great cycle fine brass looks good do not have a chrono so do not know speed but loaded 50 so far and loving it. Shot it in my 16 inch barrel with a pistol gas tube worked great.
View Quote


That's the load I have set up for my first 50, except with Hornady 150 gn bullets. I have also made up 10 rounds each at 15.6, 15.8, 16 and 16.2
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 2:08:15 AM EDT
[#45]
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 10:46:03 AM EDT
[#46]
I'm guessing that Business for BlackOut Brass is to good. Ordered some 203gr bullets on the 31st of Dec. from Blackout Brass, never heard anything so fired off a E-mail on the 7th of Jan., got shipping conformation on the 9th showed up on about the 12th, package was in pretty rough shape. Actually had to sign for package. Emailed them on the 13th to ask for the loading info that they promise to put in each order that they ship. Still have not heard back. The bullets do look fine and hope to load some up once I can get the info they promised?
Link Posted: 1/26/2015 8:21:04 PM EDT
[#47]
Well, I'm off to a start...

Link Posted: 1/27/2015 11:53:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Toxie] [#48]
I shot some of my first reloads this last weekend, all the 150's were 5744, all primers cci400, brass mixed self formed. There were shot out of a 10.5" LMT MRP (for function only) with yhm brake/mount. I'll try to post some pics later of the brass.

110gr. Sierra varmint rounds, 17.8grs. 4227. They shot very softly, was relatively quiet (even w/ a brake) and had zero pressure signs. Zero malfunctions, locked the bolt back.
150 gr. Hornady fmjbt, [email protected] and [email protected]. They all functioned OK, although the 18.2 were starting to show more pressure signs (one cratered primer, some very light ejector marks) which I found surprising as that isn't near max. They were notably louder and had more recoil then the 110's. I think going back down to 17.8 is the ticket there.
Also tried some hornady 150gr spbt, [email protected] gr, same as above. Back down to 17.8, and start looking at accuracy.

Next up is subs, as I finally scored some lilgun!
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 2:19:40 AM EDT
[#49]
I've looked through about half of the thread, and I can't find any data for 100 grain using H110.

I'm guessing min of 19gr and max of 20.2 (just slightly more powder than the 110gr bullets)

Anyone use 220gr Sierra round nose hunters with H110 for subs?
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 10:35:26 AM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Toxie:
I shot some of my first reloads this last weekend, all the 150's were 5744, all primers cci400, brass mixed self formed. There were shot out of a 10.5" LMT MRP (for function only) with yhm brake/mount. I'll try to post some pics later of the brass.

110gr. Sierra varmint rounds, 17.8grs. 4227. They shot very softly, was relatively quiet (even w/ a brake) and had zero pressure signs. Zero malfunctions, locked the bolt back.
150 gr. Hornady fmjbt, [email protected] and [email protected]. They all functioned OK, although the 18.2 were starting to show more pressure signs (one cratered primer, some very light ejector marks) which I found surprising as that isn't near max. They were notably louder and had more recoil then the 110's. I think going back down to 17.8 is the ticket there.
Also tried some hornady 150gr spbt, [email protected] gr, same as above. Back down to 17.8, and start looking at accuracy.

Next up is subs, as I finally scored some lilgun!
View Quote


unless you have played with the gas port I found lil'gun to not produce enough gas to reliably cycle the gun with subs.  I had to switch to a1680.  I am wanting to try 5744 though also
Page / 77
300 Blackout Master Thread (Page 39 of 77)
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