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Posted: 8/21/2014 10:57:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bm3]
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Had no idea you could get enough gas to cycle it with 150s loaded to subsonic velocities using any powder. How much powder for a 150 grain projectile? Thanks. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By rob99rt:
How are you going to get enough pressure to cycle the bolt with only a 150 grain bullet? I didn't think you could do it with less than a 180 grain bullet or so? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I do it with 175 down to 150 with 1680. Had no idea you could get enough gas to cycle it with 150s loaded to subsonic velocities using any powder. How much powder for a 150 grain projectile? Thanks. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile With the 175 I'm running 13.4 of 1680. I didn't keep my data on the 150 because I couldn't find a accurate load. A little self edit here. I found my data card on the 150s . You are correct it wouldn't cycle properly . |
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Posted: 8/21/2014 11:38:00 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for all the load info guys. I have a 208 grain bullet load with h4831 thats works but the blow back is terrible. Is there a better powder or are you running an adjustable gas block for this ?
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Posted: 8/25/2014 8:22:57 PM EDT
[#3]
Here's a question from the other end of the velocity spectrum. I have my dies, cutting jig, and now finally my barrel, so I really want to get started loading rounds for 300 Blackout, but there are so many supersonic loads, I'm kind of dazed. I want to start out with rounds to punch paper at 100 yards or more, so which bullet weights should I go with - 110s, 120s, 125s, 130s...? I'm looking for a round that I can mess around with while getting the hang of converting cases and later reloading the converted cases. I'll be using H110 and/or AA 1680.
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Posted: 8/25/2014 8:56:13 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Here's a question from the other end of the velocity spectrum. I have my dies, cutting jig, and now finally my barrel, so I really want to get started loading rounds for 300 Blackout, but there are so many supersonic loads, I'm kind of dazed. I want to start out with rounds to punch paper at 100 yards or more, so which bullet weights should I go with - 110s, 120s, 125s, 130s...? I'm looking for a round that I can mess around with while getting the hang of converting cases and later reloading the converted cases. I'll be using H110 and/or AA 1680. Sierra 2121c- 125 gn bullet won't disappoint. |
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Posted: 8/25/2014 9:00:43 PM EDT
[#5]
1680 is better for heavier bullets.
110 is an all around powder. Heavier bullets tend to shoot a rainbow like arc The lightest bullets I like are 125s, due to length of finished round 147 pulls can be had cheaply and are great plinkers |
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Posted: 8/25/2014 9:57:17 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Here's a question from the other end of the velocity spectrum. I have my dies, cutting jig, and now finally my barrel, so I really want to get started loading rounds for 300 Blackout, but there are so many supersonic loads, I'm kind of dazed. I want to start out with rounds to punch paper at 100 yards or more, so which bullet weights should I go with - 110s, 120s, 125s, 130s...? I'm looking for a round that I can mess around with while getting the hang of converting cases and later reloading the converted cases. I'll be using H110 and/or AA 1680. Then there are the various pulled/surplus 147 gr FMJ. I like Lil'Gun for anything over 135 grs. There is the 135 gr Sierra Match King for paper punching. H-110 here. Also I have cleaned out my odds and ins of 30 cal round nose bullets. 150 and 180 gr. They feed fine. AA-1680 is what I use. Super sonic loads, no suppressor here.
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Posted: 8/25/2014 10:19:56 PM EDT
[#7]
Anyone use 5744 or 4227 for supers or sub's? 1680 and Lil gun are nowhere to be had (already have h110) so I picked up as pound of each of the previous. I'd love any first hand uses, both have load data for BO.
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Posted: 8/25/2014 11:15:53 PM EDT
[#8]
I recently picked up some 4227. It's been too hot to spend any quality time at the range, but it seems to function fine.
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OR, USA
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Posted: 8/26/2014 2:31:32 AM EDT
[#9]
Imr 4227 is good to go I use it for suppers since it's all I have for this caliber. Great powder. Never tried subs I use H 4198 for those.
Start low and work up as us usual. Safe shooting |
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Posted: 8/26/2014 4:57:38 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By usmcscout:
Imr 4227 is good to go I use it for suppers since it's all I have for this caliber. Great powder. Never tried subs I use H 4198 for those. Start low and work up as us usual. Safe shooting except with subsonics. start high and work down 
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Posted: 8/26/2014 7:50:36 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
My favorite cheap and accurate bullet is the Speer 125 gr TNT, and any 110 gr Spitzer you find for cheap. H-110 works well. Then there are the various pulled/surplus 147 gr FMJ. I like Lil'Gun for anything over 135 grs. There is the 135 gr Sierra Match King for paper punching. H-110 here. Also I have cleaned out my odds and ins of 30 cal round nose bullets. 150 and 180 gr. They feed fine. AA-1680 is what I use. Super sonic loads, no suppressor here. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Here's a question from the other end of the velocity spectrum. I have my dies, cutting jig, and now finally my barrel, so I really want to get started loading rounds for 300 Blackout, but there are so many supersonic loads, I'm kind of dazed. I want to start out with rounds to punch paper at 100 yards or more, so which bullet weights should I go with - 110s, 120s, 125s, 130s...? I'm looking for a round that I can mess around with while getting the hang of converting cases and later reloading the converted cases. I'll be using H110 and/or AA 1680. Then there are the various pulled/surplus 147 gr FMJ. I like Lil'Gun for anything over 135 grs. There is the 135 gr Sierra Match King for paper punching. H-110 here. Also I have cleaned out my odds and ins of 30 cal round nose bullets. 150 and 180 gr. They feed fine. AA-1680 is what I use. Super sonic loads, no suppressor here. I have a box of 150gr RNSP .30-30 bullets sitting there on the shelf; never got really excited about .30-30, but I inherited a Winchester lever gun and dies in that caliber, so I got some components too. I'll play with those, and my pull/bulk 147 FMJs as well. I assume that loads for the longer, round nose bullets are probably going to be a bit different due to the longer bearing surface, but I think I've seen published data for them too, so I'll dig into that and see what turns up. |
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Posted: 8/26/2014 2:22:20 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: I was thinking about the 125s because of the comparisons people have made between Blk and 7.62x39, but 110 gr spitzers are also pretty attractive. Thanks. I have a box of 150gr RNSP .30-30 bullets sitting there on the shelf; never got really excited about .30-30, but I inherited a Winchester lever gun and dies in that caliber, so I got some components too. I'll play with those, and my pull/bulk 147 FMJs as well. I assume that loads for the longer, round nose bullets are probably going to be a bit different due to the longer bearing surface, but I think I've seen published data for them too, so I'll dig into that and see what turns up. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By GHPorter: Here's a question from the other end of the velocity spectrum. I have my dies, cutting jig, and now finally my barrel, so I really want to get started loading rounds for 300 Blackout, but there are so many supersonic loads, I'm kind of dazed. I want to start out with rounds to punch paper at 100 yards or more, so which bullet weights should I go with - 110s, 120s, 125s, 130s...? I'm looking for a round that I can mess around with while getting the hang of converting cases and later reloading the converted cases. I'll be using H110 and/or AA 1680. Then there are the various pulled/surplus 147 gr FMJ. I like Lil'Gun for anything over 135 grs. There is the 135 gr Sierra Match King for paper punching. H-110 here. Also I have cleaned out my odds and ins of 30 cal round nose bullets. 150 and 180 gr. They feed fine. AA-1680 is what I use. Super sonic loads, no suppressor here. I have a box of 150gr RNSP .30-30 bullets sitting there on the shelf; never got really excited about .30-30, but I inherited a Winchester lever gun and dies in that caliber, so I got some components too. I'll play with those, and my pull/bulk 147 FMJs as well. I assume that loads for the longer, round nose bullets are probably going to be a bit different due to the longer bearing surface, but I think I've seen published data for them too, so I'll dig into that and see what turns up. To figure out the OAL for any bullet, see my post on page 1 in this thread. I got this method off the AAC website. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/26/2014 5:29:39 PM EDT
[#13]
Tag for sure.
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Posted: 8/26/2014 6:17:04 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
To figure out the OAL for any bullet, see my post on page 1 in this thread. I got this method off the AAC website. Thanks for reminding me where it was...I was going to go searching for it and that never goes well for me... 
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Posted: 8/26/2014 10:46:04 PM EDT
[#15]
Glad to help you, and anyone else reading this thread.
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Posted: 8/27/2014 9:15:36 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Glad to help you, and anyone else reading this thread. One question your post on Page 1 doesn't address: Do you anneal before or after forming the case? I'm thinking "after," but I want to check before I make a bunch of "soon to be brittle" cases. |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 10:25:54 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
One question your post on Page 1 doesn't address: Do you anneal before or after forming the case? I'm thinking "after," but I want to check before I make a bunch of "soon to be brittle" cases. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Glad to help you, and anyone else reading this thread. One question your post on Page 1 doesn't address: Do you anneal before or after forming the case? I'm thinking "after," but I want to check before I make a bunch of "soon to be brittle" cases. I know this wan't directed to me, but I anneal before sizing - on any cases. For 300, I trim to a close length using a HF saw and jig, then anneal, size and trim in that order. Not sure if its right, but it seems to me annealing makes the case less brittle, so sizing after annealing will allow for the form to take place easier. It seems to make the sizing easier and has less "pull" on the brass, stretching or bouncing back on the way out of the die as it passes over the ball. Could be my imagination though. Sometimes I have noticed that the the first sizing of brass without annealing won't completely fit it the Sheridan gauge. It takes a second pass through the sizing die. Annealing before hand doesn't have this effect and one pass usually works. Not directly related, you can anneal before lubing then do all of the brass work after lubing and tumble when its done. I don't like annealing with lube on so I'd tumble the lube off if sizing before annealing, then finish processing and have to tumble again. |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 10:48:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: One question your post on Page 1 doesn't address: Do you anneal before or after forming the case? I'm thinking "after," but I want to check before I make a bunch of "soon to be brittle" cases. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Glad to help you, and anyone else reading this thread. One question your post on Page 1 doesn't address: Do you anneal before or after forming the case? I'm thinking "after," but I want to check before I make a bunch of "soon to be brittle" cases. edit, Pic removed.. Going to leave this up a short time and remove it and change the address again.  |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 8/28/2014 5:15:07 PM EDT
[#19]
Its hard to beat 125's to start messing with and punching holes in paper at 100yrds.
I'd agree with that and the sierras. as for 5744, I have been tinkering around with load data similar to this 
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Posted: 8/28/2014 6:29:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Moved%20Pics/bd1bb344-e39f-410e-89c9-76182d1dd110_zps94ee9acc.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/dryflash3/bd1bb344-e39f-410e-89c9-76182d1dd110_zps94ee9acc.jpg</a> I did explain, but it was with this pic. Trouble is this pic gets all over the 'net fast. So I don't leave it up long. So pic was gone when you read my post. Going to leave this up a short time and remove it and change the address again. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By GHPorter: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Glad to help you, and anyone else reading this thread. One question your post on Page 1 doesn't address: Do you anneal before or after forming the case? I'm thinking "after," but I want to check before I make a bunch of "soon to be brittle" cases. I did explain, but it was with this pic. Trouble is this pic gets all over the 'net fast. So I don't leave it up long. So pic was gone when you read my post. Going to leave this up a short time and remove it and change the address again. edit to remove part of my pic's address. dryflash3
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Posted: 8/29/2014 11:28:56 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Rooster-Cogburn]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By norbyam:
Its hard to beat 125's to start messing with and punching holes in paper at 100yrds. I'd agree with that and the sierras. as for 5744, I have been tinkering around with load data similar to this http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/746/western300blk.png I haven't shot subs yet, since I don't have my suppressor yet. I was surprised by your post. I swear I saw something from AAC that claimed that all I had to do to switch to subs was change ammo? I don't have an adjustable gas block on my .300 rifle/pistol. Edit: I guess I should read more carefully. I guess my AAC upper is configured for it without an adjustable gas block. I wonder if my pistol is ported to cycle both? CMMG 8" barrel, YHM clamp on gas block.... |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 8/29/2014 1:45:48 PM EDT
[#22]
I believe you should be OK.one of the features of the 300BO is to be able to switch from sub's to supers w/o much if any adjustment to your firearm system.
I've only run supers out of mine. Mostly been plinking with 168 smk's. As I can use them in my .308 as well. Buy one bullet two guns. Just like .223 brass converted to 300bo. I only have 300 bo to recycle some .223,brass ;) and to be able to buy my .308 bullets in more bulk :) I'm running 16" upper. Can on the way. Subsonic load ladder sitting in my safe waiting. |
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Posted: 8/29/2014 4:38:52 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Toxie:
Anyone use 5744 or 4227 for supers or sub's? 1680 and Lil gun are nowhere to be had (already have h110) so I picked up as pound of each of the previous. I'd love any first hand uses, both have load data for BO. Yep I do with a 220gr SMK. Works great. |
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Posted: 8/29/2014 4:55:15 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By norbyam:
I believe you should be OK.one of the features of the 300BO is to be able to switch from sub's to supers w/o much if any adjustment to your firearm system. I've only run supers out of mine. Mostly been plinking with 168 smk's. As I can use them in my .308 as well. Buy one bullet two guns. Just like .223 brass converted to 300bo. I only have 300 bo to recycle some .223,brass ;) and to be able to buy my .308 bullets in more bulk :) I'm running 16" upper. Can on the way. Subsonic load ladder sitting in my safe waiting. Yeah so far only supers on mine. Since Im not a tier one delta force ninja, Subs will be purely for playing around at the range. Since 220 gr seems to be hard to find and expensive, that will probably be very limited. Any HD or hunting application will be supers. It would be cool to be able to do both. I was too impatient to wait for my 556 brass necks to wear and chop it, so I've bought more .300 ammo than I originally intended. Long term, the plan is to chop the worn 556 brass. I can't imagine how much time will be spent on case prep after you factor in swaging and cutting. |
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Posted: 8/29/2014 10:07:24 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaBeamz:
Yep I do with a 220gr SMK. Works great. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaBeamz:
Originally Posted By Toxie:
Anyone use 5744 or 4227 for supers or sub's? 1680 and Lil gun are nowhere to be had (already have h110) so I picked up as pound of each of the previous. I'd love any first hand uses, both have load data for BO. Yep I do with a 220gr SMK. Works great. Thanks, for all the replies. Now I go back to watching the mail for my form 1 :) |
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Posted: 8/31/2014 10:05:17 PM EDT
[#26]
I have two questions:
What manuals now have published data for 300 Blackout? If I wanted to make up a few dummy rounds to function test my new upper (finished it today!), is there any reason not to use 147gr FMJs (which I have a bunch of), as long as I load the bullets to the correct COAL? Thanks! |
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Posted: 8/31/2014 10:12:05 PM EDT
[#27]
Hornady 9, Hodgdon annual manual and website, and Sierra has 300 blk at their site. Link somewhere in the back pages.
I made my first dummy rounds with 147 gr FMJ's. I use 2.10 as my OAL.
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Posted: 8/31/2014 10:42:44 PM EDT
[#28]
Perfect! I'll get the new manuals shortly. In the meantime, I'll make a handful of dummies with my 147s and be able to function test my upper. Pictures forthcoming when I get a chance - it's been a busy weekend and there's plenty on the schedule for tomorrow, too.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/1/2014 10:54:15 AM EDT
[#29]
Going back on my previous post (last page) running a 16" barrel with carbine gas system OK with sub's and supers. Especially with suppressor. If going shorter than 16" on 300bo. Probably going to want to go with pistol length system to utilize the high pressure gasses.
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Posted: 9/1/2014 11:03:06 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By norbyam: Going back on my previous post (last page) running a 16" barrel with carbine gas system OK with sub's and supers. Especially with suppressor. If going shorter than 16" on 300bo. Probably going to want to go with pistol length system to utilize the high pressure gasses. My AR has a 16 inch carbine gas system, perfect for me.
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Posted: 9/1/2014 1:56:54 PM EDT
[#31]
Annealing cases with dryflash3's method went very, very well. My Tempilaq was a little hard to get inside the cases consistently, but I got better with it as I went. My torch only needed to be barely lit to get a great blue flame about 3/4" long, and spinning the cases so I could see inside wasn't nearly the challenge I expected. I could have used better light when I started, but other than that, it went quite well. I now have 150 cases ready to form, but I'm taking a break now because it's freakin' hot out (even in an open garage with a good, powerful fan for ventilation) and I'm pooped.
I'm probably going to mess around with assembling my dummies before I form these cases, just because I want to function test my upper. Sad story from yesterday: I visited a LGS that's usually been a little low on powder and bullets over the past several months, and lo and behold! They had plenty of powder and lots of bullets on the shelves...but none of the powder or bullets I was looking for for 300 Blackout... It was nice to see 'em better stocked and doing a booming business, but not so nice walking out empty handed. |
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Posted: 9/1/2014 9:11:07 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By D_LaMz: Hey guys! Just wondering if I'm able to load 300 blackout with these powders. IMR 4756, IMR 800X, and Trailboss. I havent been able to find any load data. thanks! |
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Posted: 9/1/2014 9:58:25 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Annealing cases with dryflash3's method went very, very well. My Tempilaq was a little hard to get inside the cases consistently, but I got better with it as I went. My torch only needed to be barely lit to get a great blue flame about 3/4" long, and spinning the cases so I could see inside wasn't nearly the challenge I expected. I could have used better light when I started, but other than that, it went quite well. I now have 150 cases ready to form, but I'm taking a break now because it's freakin' hot out (even in an open garage with a good, powerful fan for ventilation) and I'm pooped. I'm probably going to mess around with assembling my dummies before I form these cases, just because I want to function test my upper. Sad story from yesterday: I visited a LGS that's usually been a little low on powder and bullets over the past several months, and lo and behold! They had plenty of powder and lots of bullets on the shelves...but none of the powder or bullets I was looking for for 300 Blackout... It was nice to see 'em better stocked and doing a booming business, but not so nice walking out empty handed. Remember to shake the Templaq well. The cases I've annealed were all wet tumbled and had clean necks so no problem with the Templaq sticking.
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Posted: 9/2/2014 7:20:25 AM EDT
[#34]
My problem wasn't getting it to stick, it was getting clumps out of the Tempilaq - they stuck to the brush and made it hard to be consistent with placement of the brush. I got better at it with LOTS of bottle shaking and a little patience.
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USA
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Posted: 9/9/2014 11:56:09 PM EDT
[#35]
Dryflash has showed me the OAL by the ogive in the AR15 mag. I was told that was for functioning. How would I adapt this into exisiting data? For example (don't use this data as I'm making it up) hornady wants me to use their 150 FMJ BT with IMR 4227 at 2.050" OAL. If I do the behind the rib trick and come out at 1.978" OAL, would it still work?
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Posted: 9/10/2014 7:47:03 AM EDT
[#36]
Broke out the RCBS lathe trimmer (the old style with a crank and collet shell holders, not the new motorized one with the lever-operated case holder) and trimmed exactly 4 cases. It wasn't very efficient because I had to dial in the right length, then get the cutter stop set right, and work the case holder.... So I'm going to order a Griraud caseholder for 300 Blackout and use that very nice chunk of machinery I have sitting on the shelf (that I have shellholders for all my other bottlenecked calibers for), and take a breather from this project.
So far in running a batch of 150 cases, I have "acordioned" one case in forming, formed one case with the shoulder WAY too low, and cut one case about 0.015" too short. I'm going to cut my losses and wait to get the better tool for trimming before procede. |
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Posted: 9/10/2014 7:39:32 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Broke out the RCBS lathe trimmer (the old style with a crank and collet shell holders, not the new motorized one with the lever-operated case holder) and trimmed exactly 4 cases. It wasn't very efficient because I had to dial in the right length, then get the cutter stop set right, and work the case holder.... So I'm going to order a Griraud caseholder for 300 Blackout and use that very nice chunk of machinery I have sitting on the shelf (that I have shellholders for all my other bottlenecked calibers for), and take a breather from this project. So far in running a batch of 150 cases, I have "acordioned" one case in forming, formed one case with the shoulder WAY too low, and cut one case about 0.015" too short. I'm going to cut my losses and wait to get the better tool for trimming before procede. Just so you know, you can get a WFT 2 (World's Finest Trimmer version 2) now with removable cutting assemblies that will trim up to .45 caliber cases. I've heard the Giraud trimmer is a nice piece of machinery, but the WFT is pretty darn simple to use once you have it set (which is easily done) and produces very repeatable case lengths. |
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Posted: 9/10/2014 8:17:49 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Just so you know, you can get a WFT 2 (World's Finest Trimmer version 2) now with removable cutting assemblies that will trim up to .45 caliber cases. I've heard the Giraud trimmer is a nice piece of machinery, but the WFT is pretty darn simple to use once you have it set (which is easily done) and produces very repeatable case lengths. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Broke out the RCBS lathe trimmer (the old style with a crank and collet shell holders, not the new motorized one with the lever-operated case holder) and trimmed exactly 4 cases. It wasn't very efficient because I had to dial in the right length, then get the cutter stop set right, and work the case holder.... So I'm going to order a Griraud caseholder for 300 Blackout and use that very nice chunk of machinery I have sitting on the shelf (that I have shellholders for all my other bottlenecked calibers for), and take a breather from this project. So far in running a batch of 150 cases, I have "acordioned" one case in forming, formed one case with the shoulder WAY too low, and cut one case about 0.015" too short. I'm going to cut my losses and wait to get the better tool for trimming before procede. Just so you know, you can get a WFT 2 (World's Finest Trimmer version 2) now with removable cutting assemblies that will trim up to .45 caliber cases. I've heard the Giraud trimmer is a nice piece of machinery, but the WFT is pretty darn simple to use once you have it set (which is easily done) and produces very repeatable case lengths. Thanks for the heads up, but I already have the original Giraud trimmer, and a new case holder is $30. The WFT is $69 + shipping. If I didn't have the Giraud trimmer already, I'd either go with the WFT or Giraud's new single-cartridge trimmer model. |
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Posted: 9/10/2014 10:25:45 PM EDT
[#39]
Just a FYI. The Giraud 300 black out set up works fine but not a whole bunch of case to hold on to when trimming the backout.
But still love it/use it! |
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KS, USA
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Posted: 9/10/2014 11:51:22 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
I have two questions: What manuals now have published data for 300 Blackout? If I wanted to make up a few dummy rounds to function test my new upper (finished it today!), is there any reason not to use 147gr FMJs (which I have a bunch of), as long as I load the bullets to the correct COAL? Thanks! Lyman has an AR specific loading manual out now with some loads, just a "thin" manual. |
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USA
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Posted: 9/11/2014 12:36:29 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Just so you know, you can get a WFT 2 (World's Finest Trimmer version 2) now with removable cutting assemblies that will trim up to .45 caliber cases. I've heard the Giraud trimmer is a nice piece of machinery, but the WFT is pretty darn simple to use once you have it set (which is easily done) and produces very repeatable case lengths. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Broke out the RCBS lathe trimmer (the old style with a crank and collet shell holders, not the new motorized one with the lever-operated case holder) and trimmed exactly 4 cases. It wasn't very efficient because I had to dial in the right length, then get the cutter stop set right, and work the case holder.... So I'm going to order a Griraud caseholder for 300 Blackout and use that very nice chunk of machinery I have sitting on the shelf (that I have shellholders for all my other bottlenecked calibers for), and take a breather from this project. So far in running a batch of 150 cases, I have "acordioned" one case in forming, formed one case with the shoulder WAY too low, and cut one case about 0.015" too short. I'm going to cut my losses and wait to get the better tool for trimming before procede. Just so you know, you can get a WFT 2 (World's Finest Trimmer version 2) now with removable cutting assemblies that will trim up to .45 caliber cases. I've heard the Giraud trimmer is a nice piece of machinery, but the WFT is pretty darn simple to use once you have it set (which is easily done) and produces very repeatable case lengths. I just bought the little crow trimmer for 300blk. It's very nice but requires some constant cleaning if you trim a lot of brass. The slightest brass debris in the trimmer, it won't work. You have to use a q tip to clean it out every 50-70 cases. Also you'll need a good thick glove to grip the brass, after a couple hundred cases, your fingers can get blisters from the high speed torque. |
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Posted: 9/11/2014 2:30:46 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigPolska: Lyman has an AR specific loading manual out now with some loads, just a "thin" manual. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigPolska: Originally Posted By GHPorter: I have two questions: What manuals now have published data for 300 Blackout? If I wanted to make up a few dummy rounds to function test my new upper (finished it today!), is there any reason not to use 147gr FMJs (which I have a bunch of), as long as I load the bullets to the correct COAL? Thanks! Lyman has an AR specific loading manual out now with some loads, just a "thin" manual. Hornady 8. On line @Sierra. (link posted in this thread and I printed it off and added to my copy of Sierra 5) |
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USA
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Posted: 9/12/2014 5:34:32 AM EDT
[#43]
Dillon has the thin manuals. Pg 82 Lyman ar book pg 82 k90-10976 $12.99
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NC, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2014 6:55:41 PM EDT
[#44]
After much testing I have come up the following load as the most accurate while staying subsonic in my Remington 700:
1) Caliber: 300 Blackout (Subsonic) 2) Case manufacturer: Hornady 3) Case length: 1.362” 4) Bullet manufacturer: Hornady 5) Bullet weight and type: 208 grain A-Max 6) Powder type: Accurate Arms 1680 7) Powder charge weight: 10.8 grains 8) OAL: 2.256” 9) Primer: Winchester Small Rifle 10) Firearm tested in: Remington 700 SPS 16.5 inch barrel 11) Chrono data : Average 1025 fps Note: This comes very close to duplicating the Hornady factory Subsonic loads. |
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Posted: 9/14/2014 11:24:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JPL]
[#45]
Tried working up a load today with less than desireable results:
LC Brass 208 gr Amax 11 gr A1680 1.210 OAL Gun wouldn't cyle. Would kick the empty's out, but wouldn't load the next cartridge and the avg vel was around 1,230 fps. So, I'm supersonic and my gun won't cycle. 
Any suggestions? |
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Posted: 9/15/2014 2:16:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Tunabomber]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JPL: Tried working up a load today with less than desireable results: LC Brass 208 gr Amax 11 gr A1680 1.210 OAL Gun wouldn't cyle. Would kick the empty's out, but wouldn't load the next cartridge and the avg vel was around 1,230 fps. So, I'm supersonic and my gun won't cycle. Any suggestions? Need some more info for sure. Barrel length? Buffer? Suppressed? Work "down" the load until it isn't supersonic, then tune your rifle from there would be my advice. What that entails depends on your rifle and it's current setup. |
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Posted: 9/15/2014 5:12:28 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JPL:
Tried working up a load today with less than desireable results: LC Brass 208 gr Amax 11 gr A1680 1.210 OAL Gun wouldn't cyle. Would kick the empty's out, but wouldn't load the next cartridge and the avg vel was around 1,230 fps. So, I'm supersonic and my gun won't cycle.
Any suggestions? Something does not sound right. . I load the same 208gr amax with 11.3 gr of 1680 and oal of 2.260 and it functions my 16 inch carbine gas without the suppressor and gives me 1005 fps on average. gas port size and barrel length would be helpful. buffer and spring also? |
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Posted: 9/15/2014 8:21:58 PM EDT
[#48]
>16 barrel
>carbine gas system >No idea on the port size >Buffer and spring are just some off the shelf, carbine, buffer and spring |
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Posted: 9/15/2014 9:00:57 PM EDT
[#49]
it sounds like a possible gas issue. possibly either gas port to small or gas block misaligned.
your velocity just seems odd. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/15/2014 9:10:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: djryan13]
[#50]
Sorry if this was already mentioned earlier (havent read through all these posts).. but I just noticed this was back at HF:
HF Cut Off Saw Ignore and carry on if already known. I have been trying to get my friend to buy one so he will leave mine alone. Now he has no excuse. Edit: My money is on gas port misaligned or port too small. I use far less 1680 and mine cycles with a heavy rifle buffer on my A2 stock. What barrel manufacturer? |
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