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Target was right at 50 yards. 15 gr had no pressure signs at all. 15.5 is showing the start of flattening primers. I loaded up another 100 rounds at this charge to tinker with at larger distance. I really want to load up 125 sst, but I only have one box of them so I'm holding out till I get more of them. Who am I kidding though I need more powder and primers too.
Originally Posted By tarip:
My first loading was 15.5gr of Lil' Gun with 147gr M80's. No signs of high pressure at all. I loaded up a bunch at 15.9 now, so we'll see. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By tarip:
Originally Posted By xtreme762:
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
http://<a href=http://i.imgur.com/8ElX1Js.jpg?1</a>" /> 155 gr nosler match 15 gr lilgun win small rifle primer LC converted brass Very nice. What distance shot was that? Also, were those WSR primers flat at all. I ran into flat Fed primers with 15gn Lilgun, and 150gn Nosler BT's. Had to back it down a little. My first loading was 15.5gr of Lil' Gun with 147gr M80's. No signs of high pressure at all. I loaded up a bunch at 15.9 now, so we'll see. |
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Originally Posted By SigChef:
Does your wife or girlfriend stop ovulating when you're not around? |
Anyone belling the case mouths a little bit for seating flat based bullets like the Hornady 110gr V MAX?
I am loading up some test rounds with these bullets and they are a pain in the butt to get set on the case for seating. Holding them as they go into the die is working. Just wondering if there is an easier way. If this was covered in the first 48 pages I missed it in the past few days of reading this thread. |
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I WILL NOT COMPLY
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Originally Posted By StretchMaK:
Anyone belling the case mouths a little bit for seating flat based bullets like the Hornady 110gr V MAX? I am loading up some test rounds with these bullets and they are a pain in the butt to get set on the case for seating. Holding them as they go into the die is working. Just wondering if there is an easier way. If this was covered in the first 48 pages I messed it in the past few days of reading this thread. View Quote Are you running an expander? If so, check the measurement of it. |
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Kill all but Nine...
VOTE FREEDOM FIRST! |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By StretchMaK: Anyone belling the case mouths a little bit for seating flat based bullets like the Hornady 110gr V MAX? I am loading up some test rounds with these bullets and they are a pain in the butt to get set on the case for seating. Holding them as they go into the die is working. Just wondering if there is an easier way. If this was covered in the first 48 pages I messed it in the past few days of reading this thread. View Quote |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Originally Posted By Weber:
Are you running an expander? If so, check the measurement of it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Weber:
Originally Posted By StretchMaK:
Anyone belling the case mouths a little bit for seating flat based bullets like the Hornady 110gr V MAX? I am loading up some test rounds with these bullets and they are a pain in the butt to get set on the case for seating. Holding them as they go into the die is working. Just wondering if there is an easier way. If this was covered in the first 48 pages I messed it in the past few days of reading this thread. Are you running an expander? If so, check the measurement of it. 0.3070" on the expander ball in my LEE die. They do not need any extra force or anything like that to seat the bullets. |
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I WILL NOT COMPLY
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
No expanding here, but I chamfer the inside and well as debur the outside of the case mouth. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By StretchMaK:
Anyone belling the case mouths a little bit for seating flat based bullets like the Hornady 110gr V MAX? I am loading up some test rounds with these bullets and they are a pain in the butt to get set on the case for seating. Holding them as they go into the die is working. Just wondering if there is an easier way. If this was covered in the first 48 pages I messed it in the past few days of reading this thread. Maybe I will chamfer a little bit more than I do now. |
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I WILL NOT COMPLY
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Well, on Dec. 22nd I ordered the 2" mini chop saw from Harbor Freight's website. After never getting a tracking number, or follow up email on the status of my order, I called them today. The person I spoke too told me that it is discontinued. He suggested I check with the stores in my area to see if any of them had any left.
I finally found three at the W. Broad St. store in Richmond, Va. and promptly bought them all. The other store in Richmond had one when I spoke to someone there earlier today. Just thought I'd give a heads up to anyone wanting these, as it seems like a popular saw for converting brass. No word on if there is a replacement model in the works. |
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Thanks
Might be that too many abused the warranty, by buying new and returning the old. Repeat as needed |
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Well, that sucks about the saw :( I wish I had a HF close to me to pick up a spare.
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Stupid double tap
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Originally Posted By jlficken:
Well, that sucks about the saw :( I wish I had a HF close to me to pick up a spare. View Quote There's not much to em'. If one had to, he could probably buy the motor on egay for pretty cheap. As far as the belt goes, vacuums use belt of similar sizes. I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to find one. You can get a 2" blade just about anywhere. All this is assuming the case, and frame of the saw are still intact. |
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Lord, make me fast, and accurate. Let my aim be true, and my hands faster than those who would seek to destroy me. Grant me victory over my foes, and those that wish to do harm to me, and mine!
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There are others available. It cost more, but I bet it is better built.
http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-miter-and-cut-off-saw,9639.html |
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Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There are others available. It cost more, but I bet it is better built. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-miter-and-cut-off-saw,9639.html View Quote I'd like to see one up close. Just by the pic, it appears to the same saw with the addition of a blade guard. |
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Originally Posted By polarys425:
I'd like to see one up close. Just by the pic, it appears to the same saw with the addition of a blade guard. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By polarys425:
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There are others available. It cost more, but I bet it is better built. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-miter-and-cut-off-saw,9639.html I'd like to see one up close. Just by the pic, it appears to the same saw with the addition of a blade guard. What difference would it make? We already know the HF one is good for thousands of cuts. If this one is the same and becomes the last alternative for that particular saw, what is your up close inspection going to do? |
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Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
What difference would it make? We already know the HF one is good for thousands of cuts. If this one is the same and becomes the last alternative for that particular saw, what is your up close inspection going to do? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
Originally Posted By polarys425:
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There are others available. It cost more, but I bet it is better built. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-miter-and-cut-off-saw,9639.html I'd like to see one up close. Just by the pic, it appears to the same saw with the addition of a blade guard. What difference would it make? We already know the HF one is good for thousands of cuts. If this one is the same and becomes the last alternative for that particular saw, what is your up close inspection going to do? You set right there and "bet it's better built", I'm guessing you arrived at that conclusion simply because it $74 ($84 shipped) instead of the $22 with a coupon at HF. There are people selling the HF unit on ebay for ridiculous prices, does that make those units better than one that come straight from HF? So my desire to see one up close is based on your "bet it is better built". If it's indeed the same unit, then in absence of the HF version, I'd look for a different solution to cutting cases down, or build my own. That's what my close inspection would do. A $22 disposable unit is different than an $84 disposable unit. |
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Originally Posted By polarys425:
You set right there and "bet it's better built", I'm guessing you arrived at that conclusion simply because it $74 ($84 shipped) instead of the $22 with a coupon at HF. There are people selling the HF unit on ebay for ridiculous prices, does that make those units better than one that come straight from HF? So my desire to see one up close is based on your "bet it is better built". If it's indeed the same unit, then in absence of the HF version, I'd look for a different solution to cutting cases down, or build my own. That's what my close inspection would do. A $22 disposable unit is different than an $84 disposable unit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By polarys425:
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
Originally Posted By polarys425:
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There are others available. It cost more, but I bet it is better built. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-miter-and-cut-off-saw,9639.html I'd like to see one up close. Just by the pic, it appears to the same saw with the addition of a blade guard. What difference would it make? We already know the HF one is good for thousands of cuts. If this one is the same and becomes the last alternative for that particular saw, what is your up close inspection going to do? You set right there and "bet it's better built", I'm guessing you arrived at that conclusion simply because it $74 ($84 shipped) instead of the $22 with a coupon at HF. There are people selling the HF unit on ebay for ridiculous prices, does that make those units better than one that come straight from HF? So my desire to see one up close is based on your "bet it is better built". If it's indeed the same unit, then in absence of the HF version, I'd look for a different solution to cutting cases down, or build my own. That's what my close inspection would do. A $22 disposable unit is different than an $84 disposable unit. it's about 25% the investment.... And they are the same saw... no brainer.to me. |
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Originally Posted By rangermonroe:
and Obama might turn out to be a good President, and skittles might fly out of my ass and turn into unicorn seeds. All are equally likely. |
Originally Posted By polarys425:
You set right there and "bet it's better built", I'm guessing you arrived at that conclusion simply because it $74 ($84 shipped) instead of the $22 with a coupon at HF. There are people selling the HF unit on ebay for ridiculous prices, does that make those units better than one that come straight from HF? So my desire to see one up close is based on your "bet it is better built". If it's indeed the same unit, then in absence of the HF version, I'd look for a different solution to cutting cases down, or build my own. That's what my close inspection would do. A $22 disposable unit is different than an $84 disposable unit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By polarys425:
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
Originally Posted By polarys425:
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There are others available. It cost more, but I bet it is better built. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-miter-and-cut-off-saw,9639.html I'd like to see one up close. Just by the pic, it appears to the same saw with the addition of a blade guard. What difference would it make? We already know the HF one is good for thousands of cuts. If this one is the same and becomes the last alternative for that particular saw, what is your up close inspection going to do? You set right there and "bet it's better built", I'm guessing you arrived at that conclusion simply because it $74 ($84 shipped) instead of the $22 with a coupon at HF. There are people selling the HF unit on ebay for ridiculous prices, does that make those units better than one that come straight from HF? So my desire to see one up close is based on your "bet it is better built". If it's indeed the same unit, then in absence of the HF version, I'd look for a different solution to cutting cases down, or build my own. That's what my close inspection would do. A $22 disposable unit is different than an $84 disposable unit. I stated it's probably better built because Harbor Freight is known for making cheap copies of everything. That is usually reflected in the price. $75 still isn't very much money for something that will most like likely last you a lifetime, relatively speaking, of cutting cases for 300BLK. Hell, even if you decide to get out of the caliber, I am sure you could sell your used one of these for $50. Some of us understand the value of a proven system. If you aren't one of those people, good on you. Spend more time, money and energy coming up with another system. |
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Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
I stated it's probably better built because Harbor Freight is known for making cheap copies of everything. That is usually reflected in the price. $75 still isn't very much money for something that will most like likely last you a lifetime, relatively speaking, of cutting cases for 300BLK. Hell, even if you decide to get out of the caliber, I am sure you could sell your used one of these for $50. Some of us understand the value of a proven system. If you aren't one of those people, good on you. Spend more time, money and energy coming up with another system. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
Originally Posted By polarys425:
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
Originally Posted By polarys425:
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There are others available. It cost more, but I bet it is better built. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-miter-and-cut-off-saw,9639.html I'd like to see one up close. Just by the pic, it appears to the same saw with the addition of a blade guard. What difference would it make? We already know the HF one is good for thousands of cuts. If this one is the same and becomes the last alternative for that particular saw, what is your up close inspection going to do? You set right there and "bet it's better built", I'm guessing you arrived at that conclusion simply because it $74 ($84 shipped) instead of the $22 with a coupon at HF. There are people selling the HF unit on ebay for ridiculous prices, does that make those units better than one that come straight from HF? So my desire to see one up close is based on your "bet it is better built". If it's indeed the same unit, then in absence of the HF version, I'd look for a different solution to cutting cases down, or build my own. That's what my close inspection would do. A $22 disposable unit is different than an $84 disposable unit. I stated it's probably better built because Harbor Freight is known for making cheap copies of everything. That is usually reflected in the price. $75 still isn't very much money for something that will most like likely last you a lifetime, relatively speaking, of cutting cases for 300BLK. Hell, even if you decide to get out of the caliber, I am sure you could sell your used one of these for $50. Some of us understand the value of a proven system. If you aren't one of those people, good on you. Spend more time, money and energy coming up with another system. "lifetime"......lol folks here are burning these things up, many within 30-90 days. That $84 unit, wont be any different. Building something that will last a long time for under $84 shouldn't be that difficult. The HF unit is popular because, it's uber cheap with a coupon, and gets the job done for a little while, and is cheap to replace. If you're ok paying 4 times the price for the same unit, with the same short lifespan, great for you. I have a feeling you're gonna be in the minority on that one. Anyways, enough of this, we disagree. My original post was simply to let others know that the HF unit appears to be now discontinued, so anyone wanting one/another can do so before they are gone. |
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This is a good alternative to the HF saw, if you already own an angle grinder:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200422331_200422331 I bought one, and it is a nice unit. It took some fiddling to get it squared up good, but not a big deal. My abrasive cut-off wheels make a harsher cut than the tooth ones, but it just takes some more deburring. I used a v-block and a bolt/nut for an adjustable stop. Works great. |
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Send the brass to me, I'll process it for you, and send most of it back...
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Kill all but Nine...
VOTE FREEDOM FIRST! |
Originally Posted By andrewz71:
I'll just leave this here. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NyVlN28jVlU/UsIZxt1CUCI/AAAAAAAABCU/s5OSt5rKDYM/s912/image.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h7xHiGAijZc/UsIZxicWWFI/AAAAAAAABCQ/g8mt3jzWypU/s912/image.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-96DZep_PFwc/UsIZxgw9T6I/AAAAAAAABCM/rsc4PpACaHk/s800/image.jpg I live within an hour of powder valley so I am stocking up. Not pictured got another 4000 rds lc 5.56 brass to convert. Have another 2000 175 gr factory seconds projectiles ordered. Wilson case gauge. Now just need to order the Dillion 1050 a few extra heads, Giraud Case annealer, some dies, etc. View Quote I have you beat in powder and brass, but I bow to your huge collection of pills! |
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Seeing as how I've got a .30cal can coming in and I've got everything but the barrel for an upper, this thread is now relevant to my interests...
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Originally Posted By saabdrifter:
I have you beat in powder and brass, but I bow to your huge collection of pills! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By saabdrifter:
Originally Posted By andrewz71:
I'll just leave this here. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NyVlN28jVlU/UsIZxt1CUCI/AAAAAAAABCU/s5OSt5rKDYM/s912/image.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h7xHiGAijZc/UsIZxicWWFI/AAAAAAAABCQ/g8mt3jzWypU/s912/image.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-96DZep_PFwc/UsIZxgw9T6I/AAAAAAAABCM/rsc4PpACaHk/s800/image.jpg I live within an hour of powder valley so I am stocking up. Not pictured got another 4000 rds lc 5.56 brass to convert. Have another 2000 175 gr factory seconds projectiles ordered. Wilson case gauge. Now just need to order the Dillion 1050 a few extra heads, Giraud Case annealer, some dies, etc. I have you beat in powder and brass, but I bow to your huge collection of pills! I hope to catch up soon. If I could get out and shoot some 5.56 up so I can pickup the brass. I also have a line on some more a1680, and lil gun, as well as some w296. Picking up 1000 .224 69gr, and 1000 77gr projectiles early next yr. Originally Posted By RDTCU:
Seeing as how I've got a .30cal can coming in and I've got everything but the barrel for an upper, this thread is now relevant to my interests... I also have a couple cans coming in ready for sbr 300 blk use, I got tired of not being able to find ammo, as well as decent plinking prices. |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Lets get this back to a reloading thread, not a look what I have thread.
That's what the the "What have you done in Reloading Today" thread is for.
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
You cannot stop it now....it's automatic
CO, USA
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I know it's been covered to seat bullets to ~.250 diameter on the rib of the AR mag for proper feeding/function.
My question is what is that length/measurement from the ~.250 diameter ogive on the bullet to the base of the case? I'm not able to measure any mags at the moment and thought someone might have this bit of info. |
Bullets in a firefight are like candy in kindergarten; bring enough for everyone or you are going be in trouble. - TescoVee
What don't you understand about "...SHALL NOT BE INFRINGED." ? |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By AlphaOperator: I know it's been covered to seat bullets to ~.250 diameter on the rib of the AR mag for proper feeding/function. This is the only dimension that matters. My question is what is that length/measurement from the ~.250 diameter ogive on the bullet to the base of the case? 1.70 GI 20 round alum mag. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By AlphaOperator: I know it's been covered to seat bullets to ~.250 diameter on the rib of the AR mag for proper feeding/function. This is the only dimension that matters. My question is what is that length/measurement from the ~.250 diameter ogive on the bullet to the base of the case? 1.70 GI 20 round alum mag. I'm not able to measure any mags at the moment and thought someone might have this bit of info. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Could someone please give me any additional data for IMR 4227 with Hornady 125 sst.
Hodgdon data shows 16.5 start and 17.7c max I would like another set of data to compare to. I am going to be using magnum small rifle primers. Is there any other data I could get from you guys? This is the powder I am going to have to be working with for a little bit. Thank you guys for any help. Edit: spelling |
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Originally Posted By SigChef:
Does your wife or girlfriend stop ovulating when you're not around? |
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
Could someone please give me any additional data for IMR 4227 with Hornady 125 sst. Hodgdon data shows 16.5 start and 17.7c max I would like another set of data to compare to. I am going to be using magnum small rifle primers. Is there any other data I could get from you guys? This is the powder I am going to have to be working with for a little bit. Thank you guys for any help. Edit: spelling View Quote I can give you Nosler 300 AAC Blackout loads for 125 g Accubond Spitzer and 125 Ballistic Tip Spitzer - both @ 2.060". Their BC's are .366 and SD's are .188 IMR 4227 16.0 - 1845 fps 17.0 - 1927 fps 18.0 - 2003 fps (Max) All are compressed loads. You will have to interpret this to see if it is useful for your needs. I don't load for 300 AAC and have never tried these, just reading it from the book that was sitting on my coffee table. |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By 13starsinax: Could someone please give me any additional data for IMR 4227 with Hornady 125 sst. Hodgdon data shows 16.5 start and 17.7c max I would like another set of data to compare to. I am going to be using magnum small rifle primers. Is there any other data I could get from you guys? This is the powder I am going to have to be working with for a little bit. Thank you guys for any help. Edit: spelling View Quote |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Why mag primers? All you have? Or shooting in low temps? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
Could someone please give me any additional data for IMR 4227 with Hornady 125 sst. Hodgdon data shows 16.5 start and 17.7c max I would like another set of data to compare to. I am going to be using magnum small rifle primers. Is there any other data I could get from you guys? This is the powder I am going to have to be working with for a little bit. Thank you guys for any help. Edit: spelling Magnum primers are all I use. Mostly due to not being able to get non-mag primers anywhere. But even if I could, I'd probably still use magnum anyway. |
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Lord, make me fast, and accurate. Let my aim be true, and my hands faster than those who would seek to destroy me. Grant me victory over my foes, and those that wish to do harm to me, and mine!
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Ok, just wondering.
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Originally Posted By RLR350:
I can give you Nosler 300 AAC Blackout loads for 125 g Accubond Spitzer and 125 Ballistic Tip Spitzer - both @ 2.060". Their BC's are .366 and SD's are .188 IMR 4227 16.0 - 1845 fps 17.0 - 1927 fps 18.0 - 2003 fps (Max) All are compressed loads. You will have to interpret this to see if it is useful for your needs. I don't load for 300 AAC and have never tried these, just reading it from the book that was sitting on my coffee table. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
Could someone please give me any additional data for IMR 4227 with Hornady 125 sst. Hodgdon data shows 16.5 start and 17.7c max I would like another set of data to compare to. I am going to be using magnum small rifle primers. Is there any other data I could get from you guys? This is the powder I am going to have to be working with for a little bit. Thank you guys for any help. Edit: spelling I can give you Nosler 300 AAC Blackout loads for 125 g Accubond Spitzer and 125 Ballistic Tip Spitzer - both @ 2.060". Their BC's are .366 and SD's are .188 IMR 4227 16.0 - 1845 fps 17.0 - 1927 fps 18.0 - 2003 fps (Max) All are compressed loads. You will have to interpret this to see if it is useful for your needs. I don't load for 300 AAC and have never tried these, just reading it from the book that was sitting on my coffee table. I was able to fit 16.4 using 110gr seirra varmit projectiles and 15 with a 150 hornaday fmj was.a.compressed....but I'm using converted lake city brass. both loads did well for me.. |
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Originally Posted By rangermonroe:
and Obama might turn out to be a good President, and skittles might fly out of my ass and turn into unicorn seeds. All are equally likely. |
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
Could someone please give me any additional data for IMR 4227 with Hornady 125 sst. Hodgdon data shows 16.5 start and 17.7c max I would like another set of data to compare to. I am going to be using magnum small rifle primers. Is there any other data I could get from you guys? This is the powder I am going to have to be working with for a little bit. Thank you guys for any help. Edit: spelling View Quote I've loaded both the Nosler 125 and the Hornady 125 SST with 4227. I settled on 18 grains 4227 and an OAL of 2.100" for both, medium crimp. This is a compressed load. I started getting very slight primer flattening, but not worse than some of my 5.56 loads or factory xm193. Velocity is 1780 avg for the Nosler, 1750 avg for the SST out of my 10.5" barrel. EDIT: Can also add that I use the Wolf SRM primer. |
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Thanks a lot guys I appreciate the insight. I got a good start I feel comfortable with now. Flash I use mag primers currently due to what I have in hand. My buddy uses them in everything he loads.
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Originally Posted By SigChef:
Does your wife or girlfriend stop ovulating when you're not around? |
so whats the cheapest you guys are reloading the 300blk for? super and sub?
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I just consulted the Hornady 9th book, and this is their data for the 125 SST, 16" bbl:
Hornady 125 gr SST .308 2.100" OAL IMR 4227 1700 14.4 1800 15.7 1900 17.0 2000 18.3 MAX |
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Originally Posted By bigplayer2382:
so whats the cheapest you guys are reloading the 300blk for? super and sub? View Quote http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=86775 |
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Has anyone tried loading .308 100 GR. PLINKER "SPR1805"
also where is there solid data for lead and 300 blackout sure wish lyman would amend the cast data book to include 300 AAC ONLY powder I have that should work is imr 4227, A5744, 2400, trail boss |
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I like the 4227 with the Nosler 125 gr for the supers, of course I didn't have any other usable powder.
But, then I'm really, really, really happy with the accuracy with it. I go for the accuracy, vel is second. |
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Originally Posted By We-rBorg:
I like the 4227 with the Nosler 125 gr for the supers, of course I didn't have any other usable powder. But, then I'm really, really, really happy with the accuracy with it. I go for the accuracy, vel is second. View Quote Just out of curiosity, what was your velocity with 4227? Also, is it IMR, or Hodgdon? I was able to get them to 2325fps. using H110. But settled with 2250fps using H110 for accuracy's sake. 2250fps. is plenty velocity for the bullet anyhow, and it's good for 200yds.. |
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Lord, make me fast, and accurate. Let my aim be true, and my hands faster than those who would seek to destroy me. Grant me victory over my foes, and those that wish to do harm to me, and mine!
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I haven't had them over a chrono yet, had to work up an accracy load for deer season and only had a couple of days.
The load is hot, but doesn't show pressure, I can only assume( you know what they say about assume) that they are doing about 2300 out of a 18" bbl, but, damn they're accurate.. After the season, I will run them over a chrono. ETA, They do knock a deer on it's a$$, through both shoulders,, (cooking a roast right now) 2nd ETA, I have IMR |
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Originally Posted By xtreme762:
150gn Barnes Tac-X BT(30824) @ 2005fps. with 16" 1x8 bbl. 16gn LilGun Rem 7 1/2 2.210" COAL http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/8707/mk74.jpg I worked on these for a while using CCI BR4 primers, and could never get good accuracy out of them. So I changed up to the Remington 7 1/2, and the groups were outstanding. Outstanding as in 1/2" on paper @ 100yds.. No pressure sign, and the load could actually go up further. I'm good with this, though! These will make excellent hunting rounds for big game out past 250yds. due to the low reliable expansion velocity, and with good shot placement. View Quote Wow, 2005 vel, that's a $hitn and ah getting. They sure r pritty (In the best redneck I can do) |
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Originally Posted By We-rBorg:
Wow, 2005 vel, that's a $hitn and ah getting. They sure r pritty (In the best redneck I can do) View Quote Lol, I had to add that extra 5fps.. It just makes it sound so much better. ETA: I tried these as close to the lands as I could get them. Which was .060" out. Barnes recommends .040" - .070". But the closer I got them to the lands, the less accurate they got. They now sit .110" from the lands! |
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Lord, make me fast, and accurate. Let my aim be true, and my hands faster than those who would seek to destroy me. Grant me victory over my foes, and those that wish to do harm to me, and mine!
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Well I tried IMR 4227 for some 200 subs.
It did not go well. They will cycle my pistol but not my carbine. Worked up to published load data and started to have pressure signs... Will try to load up some supers when I can get out with chrony, otherwise I have 4lbs of powder I can't use. At least I scored 4lbs of 1680 |
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Does anyone have any experience with Alliant powders for supersonic loads? I have RE-7 and 2400 for subsonics but I'm looking for an Alliant powder for super sonic rounds too.
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Top 10 scrip
"Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet." -Major General Mattis |
So I am most of the way through a 300 blackout pistol build. It's my first 300 build and I have to say I am very excited about the potential for the round. What is most exciting is not only what it can do out of an 8 inch barrel (what I have) but how inexpensive it will be to reload and even cast my own bullets for.
This is where my question comes from though. when I got my new barrel from Santa this year, I slugged the bore to check diameter so I know what to size the cast bullets to. I know from at least some experience that fit is king when it comes to casting...BHN, velocity, gas check, ect...they all play a part but fit is most important. The barrel slugs at .305...and that kinda concerns me. I bought the barrel from MAS defense (or Santa did I should say). I know cast boolits should be around .001 to .002 above bore size to allow perfect fit. what now? This seems like it could be for one out of spec, but I don't know...has anyone else had this experience? Will shooting jacketed bullets be safe through this one? (my understanding is most spec 30 cal bores run .307-.3075 range.) will sizing to .308 be sufficient for a good solid alloy of wheel weights and a bit of tin/antimony added to sweeten, water dropped, heat treated, and gas checked (which is what I have going on by the by) I have a .309 sizing die but that is .004 over bore size...seems a bit much but want to see what you guys think thoughts? |
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Originally Posted By Orionsblade:
So I am most of the way through a 300 blackout pistol build. It's my first 300 build and I have to say I am very excited about the potential for the round. What is most exciting is not only what it can do out of an 8 inch barrel (what I have) but how inexpensive it will be to reload and even cast my own bullets for. This is where my question comes from though. when I got my new barrel from Santa this year, I slugged the bore to check diameter so I know what to size the cast bullets to. I know from at least some experience that fit is king when it comes to casting...BHN, velocity, gas check, ect...they all play a part but fit is most important. The barrel slugs at .305...and that kinda concerns me. I bought the barrel from MAS defense (or Santa did I should say). I know cast boolits should be around .001 to .002 above bore size to allow perfect fit. what now? This seems like it could be for one out of spec, but I don't know...has anyone else had this experience? Will shooting jacketed bullets be safe through this one? (my understanding is most spec 30 cal bores run .307-.3075 range.) will sizing to .308 be sufficient for a good solid alloy of wheel weights and a bit of tin/antimony added to sweeten, water dropped, heat treated, and gas checked (which is what I have going on by the by) I have a .309 sizing die but that is .004 over bore size...seems a bit much but want to see what you guys think thoughts? View Quote .305? that seems really small, but maybe it is the norm for that maker, I would contact them. for My .308 diameter guns, .300blk, .308 winchester, I size to .311. I just seem to have less problems using this size. others size at .309 and also .310 and that works for them. I would use the .309 size and see what happens. |
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C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 6 un-socialized homeschoolers. |
Originally Posted By Orionsblade:
So I am most of the way through a 300 blackout pistol build. It's my first 300 build and I have to say I am very excited about the potential for the round. What is most exciting is not only what it can do out of an 8 inch barrel (what I have) but how inexpensive it will be to reload and even cast my own bullets for. This is where my question comes from though. when I got my new barrel from Santa this year, I slugged the bore to check diameter so I know what to size the cast bullets to. I know from at least some experience that fit is king when it comes to casting...BHN, velocity, gas check, ect...they all play a part but fit is most important. The barrel slugs at .305...and that kinda concerns me. I bought the barrel from MAS defense (or Santa did I should say). I know cast boolits should be around .001 to .002 above bore size to allow perfect fit. what now? This seems like it could be for one out of spec, but I don't know...has anyone else had this experience? Will shooting jacketed bullets be safe through this one? (my understanding is most spec 30 cal bores run .307-.3075 range.) will sizing to .308 be sufficient for a good solid alloy of wheel weights and a bit of tin/antimony added to sweeten, water dropped, heat treated, and gas checked (which is what I have going on by the by) I have a .309 sizing die but that is .004 over bore size...seems a bit much but want to see what you guys think thoughts? View Quote Call manufacturer and confirm |
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Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum
Proud Member - "Team Ranstad" - The Fantastic Bastards! |
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