I have the 230 grain Lee mold and my first batch of bullets was pretty lousy accuracy-wise from my SBR (9.5" core15 barrel).  Had a bit of lead in the barrel, too, out near the muzzle end of the barrel (strips of lead in the rifling, fwiw).  I was using 8.7 grains of Lilgun and lubed with liquid alox.  I didn't size anything, though, and didn't have a FCD die at the time, I think... can't remember exactly when I picked that up.  Which sizer are you using for your 300 Blackout that you're getting good accuracy with?  .308 or .309?



ETA:  I also thought I read somewhere that the Lee 230 grain mold for 300 Blackout was a tumble lube bullet, and was supposed to be shot as-is, and not sized since it doesn't have traditional lube grooves.  Is that not the case?





 

What's a good bullet for supersonic loads out of a 9" barrel?  I will be using H110.

I use a lee 309 push through after I apply the powder coating. my first loads were sized 308 and  weren't great but I was just trying to stop the barrel leading. which it did so then I sized 309 and since I didn't have a lee FCD FOR 300 BLK  I  used my 308 WIN Lee FCD but held the case from the top with my fingers and then ran the ram up to apply crimp and it works till I get a 300blk FCD. hope this helps some. im going out of town for a while so I wont be able to reply back for a week but I will when I can.

I just got my chop saw last night. I'm a cheap bastard as well. I want one of those jigs but don't want to pay 50$.  What could I do to line up my cases in a relatively quick fashion?  I used a 99 cent sharpie marker.  I pulled them apart. Trimmed to length and now I am able to push a 5.56 case in the tube till the rim of the case is just barely sticking out the left side and chop away.  It's easy to eyeball the rim. No muss, no fuss and more importantly, CHEAP!  Just thought I would pass it along.

I have some old epoxy resin laying around. I think I'm going to make a form to put a block around the sharpie tube so that it doesn't crush under pressure from the vice portion.

buying the little jig sped up my process to once piece every 3-5 seconds. It is worth it if you plan to make a lot. Or if you are goot with wood working, make your own, but its very hard to chop the brass in the configuration the saw comes in.

Try a 110gr - 150 gr. the ballistics of 140-180gr projectiles aren't ideal in the BLK but you can do it and depending on your application may never know it wasn't perfect. I have plenty of 150gr plinking loads that work perfectly for me- 150 yds is the longest shot so far with that load.

As noted above 110 is not a good powder for subsonic loads (ie heavier projectiles) and in some cases is not safe.
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Has anyone used a 38 Super carbide sizing die to decap rough cut 300BLK cases?  the dimensions are similar-ish and I'm thinking the radius of the die mouth would help align the case in the die.

Primarily, looking for something that will work for self defense/range use.  Not concerned with the subsonic just yet, as I still have 6 months or more until I get my can.  It would be nice if I could find something cheap for range use that had roughly the same poi as a good defense bullet.  

I use the Barnes 110gr TAC-TX and the 125gr SMK in my supersonic loads using H110.  Both bullets feed flawlessly and are plenty accurate out of my 8.2" Noveske.  They aren't the cheapest options, but in my opinion they are the best bullets out there right now for the 300BLK.







 

If you are just plinking then the 125SMK's are the only decent choice now and as cheap as anything else other than cast etc for 30 cal, they are in stock at many reloading sites, the 110gr blacktips are the best for supers, but costly and hard to find in stock(though they are in stock at a few places this moment)

Thanks for the heads up on the Barnes

Where are the Barnes 110 grain TTSX bullets in stock?  I've been looking for about an hour online and can't find any place with them in stock.



 

The blacktips are not TTSX, they are called Tac-Tx makes a difference when searching
http://www.natchezss.com/Bullets.cfm?contentID=productDetail&brand=BX&prodID=BX30851&prodTitle=Barnes® M/LE Tactical Bullets - .30 cal .308

LOL, no they are not, LOL,  I only bought a box to make up some deer hunting rounds, for plinking I shoot the 125SMK's, 35$ per 100

posting on arfcom killed it

they are out of stock

behold the power

Has anyone tried this bullets for plinkin? PRVI 30 cal 150g SP.
PRVI 30 Cal

Been in stock for a while so i guess perhaps not that good?

Yes, but an ARFCOM member did benefit from the post, and if I might add, never had the opportunity to obtain, use and educate himself on these particular bullets.  There's a different perspective on this.    They are pricey....but my plans are to use them on wild hogs and deer.  I do have lots of those 125 gr sierra MK for practicing.

What about the Hornady SST 125gr?  They look good and a little more cost effective than the Sierras.

I just bought a box of these at Cabelas last week.  27 bucks for 100.    

I loaded them up with 17g of lilgun.  I have not had a chance to range check them yet but this could be my go to bullet.  It appears to be made perfectly for the 300blk.   From the brief amount of google searching I have done on this bullet it appears to have replaced the old Pink tipped bullets that were popular a while back that were discontinued.  

Little bit of a range report on some loads I shot this weekend.
Made up 5 rounds each of two loads for the 110 grain Barnes Tac-TSX
bullets (black tips) with 18.9 and 19.1 grains of Lil Gun.  Shooting
them at 50 yards with the 1-4X Primary Arms scope worked out really
well, too.  The reason I chose 50 yards as my sight-in with this load is
because it should get me out to 150 yards or so, and I'll be within a
couple inches of my point of aim.  Both loads shot very well, with a
couple shots (before scope adjustments) shooting over-lapping holes at
the target.  The last round I had of the 10 I dead-centered the 1/2"
wide bullseye I was shooting at, so I thought that was a nice way to end
it.  FWIW, this is going to be my "deer gun", so the 1-4X scope should
get me out there past 75 yards or so on 4X.  It also gives me the
ability to have it on 1X and use it as basically a red dot while walking
through the woods if a deer jumps up and takes off.  I've tried getting
on deer running through the woods even with a 3-9X on 3X, and it is
hard to do.





Specs:  





mixed .223 converted brass (LC, Remington, Winchester) trimmed to 1.355.  Has been annealed after forming/trimming.


Wolf SRM primers.


18.9 and 19.1 grains of Lil' Gun.


Seated to 2.25" OAL


Lee FCD used to crimp them.  Crimp was centered, basically, in the
bullet groove.  I put enough of a crimp on them that the collet spaces
were practically closed up.





SBR has a 9.5" Core15 stainless barrel, fwiw.





Had no feeding issues at all.  





Based upon the accuracy I had from the loads, I'm going to just make up
the remaining 40 bullets I have with 19.0 grains and call it good.  One
other person way back on page 2 or so said they used 19.0 grains of Lil'
Gun with their 110 grain Tac-TSX bullets, and it definitely is a
winner.





Has anybody chronographed this particular load, or something similar
(another 110 grain bullet with 19 grains of Lil'Gun out of a 9-10"
barrel)?  My estimate is around 2100 fps with 19.0 grains of Lil'Gun,
and that's what I'm using with the Strelok ballistics calculator on my
Galaxy S3, but I'd like to know what others may have seen in their
loads.
 

I thwacked a deer at 265 yards last year with that bullet out of my 308.... It had excellent performance with an impact velocity of right around 2250fps according to Bulletflight.

ETA - The top of the heart and both lungs were completely destroyed, and the buck didn't even move. That bullet made a 250lb buck DRT.....

Those are good looking MRBLACK.  I picked up a box of 100 to try out.  Hoping they will work well over H110.

Has anyone used Graf's labeled bullets or Barnes' Match Burner bullets?

The epoxy will work well.  I brought some acrylic resin home from the office and made my own jig as well

Good to know. Thanks!! What do you think about using them in 300 AAC? I know i can always use it on my 30-06 but i was leaning more towards the 300 AAC. Anyways i'll buy a few and test to see whats the performance anyways.

HEY everyone! first time posting in the reloading forum but I read threw most of this thread and didnt find a answer it has prob been asked in this thread more than once but..

On the 300AAC using 150FMJBT and H110 @14.8g (starting load) I am reading in the Hornady reloading manual 9th, it says C.O.A.L  @ 2.220 but I have been seeing on here everyone is going shorter to crimp in the cannelure roughly 2.060-2.270 what is correct? or how much will it effect how accurate this round is? Thanks and again hate to post if it has been already posted once or six times but I never across it.

I have read every page in this thread and wanted to say thanks to all that have contributed.

I have a quick question regarding crimping.

There are a few places where load data was listed and the mention of a crimp.....not often though. With loading 110 grain Sierra OTB's....I have not decided if I should crimp or not as I am getting satisfactory case neck tension with no issues so far.

Is a crimp necessary for this load in a semi? Will a crimp alter or increase the pressure?

Thanks for your consideration.








*

I crimp everything rifle with a Lee Factory Crimp die. Islet the die to just start closing at the top of the stroke, and I've seen better conistancy in accuracy as a result.

I've not needed a crimp yet. However, i've found with sub loads such as trailboss, a crimp does result in a better burn and
More consistant crony results. For supersonic loads i don't think its needed if you are using decent brass and good dies.

Thanks for that information guys.....I'll make a run with and without and see what works better for my application.

I'll post some eye candy as soon as I have a rack of them completed.

Learned some new things the other night when I was working on some
ammo...  When you load up two different batches of 150 grain supers, and
you put them in two different mags, but you don't mark the mags as to
what the load data was, you really should just pull them and start
over.  Of course, once you pull the bullets, you *really* should re-size
them to tighten up the necks again, because if you don't, and you try
to load them again, the neck tension is really lousy.  And, even if you
use your FCD to try to put a nice crimp on the neck, it's still not
enough to keep the bullet from moving back and forth... so you have to
pull all 30 rounds AGAIN, resize them, and start over.  Tons of fun...





Oh...
and don't attempt to dump the powder from the kinetic bullet puller
straight back into the 8 lb powder jug with the 150 grain bullet still
in the bottom of the bullet puller... because it will inevitably fall
out into the powder jug, and then will very quickly disappear into the
jug, only to be found again when you have less than 100 grains left in
the jug, probably. (which means a couple years from now at the rate I'm
going).





I should have known better than to try to reload ammo after 9 PM.





On
a positive note, I think the 300 Blackout SBR is going to work great
for deer this year.  Pretty light, will reach out to 200 yards without a
problem with the 1-4X scope, and will be soooo much easier to maneuver
around in the woods than a full-size rifle.  FWIW, the light will come off when I take it hunting.  As it is right now it's setup with a mag full of 230 grain subs for HD duty.  Wish I had a can for it, but that's a lot of $$$$ away....






apologies
for the blurry pics... not enough light in the room to take a good pic
at 9:15 PM.  It's only around 20" long with the stock folded, btw, so
it'll fit in a lot of backpacks.







 

I FINALLY found some 220g in stock and was able to order them before they disappeared.  my only other problem is I don't have any powder for subs.  I have h110 that I currently use for supers.  I also have some #9 that some have said work but I have never tried it.


hogdon has a load for subs using h110 but I have read several times that it's not a good powder to use.  can someone elighten me on that?

A1680 and Li'l Gun

Any one have any loads for me to start with on 200gn and 240gn HPBT SMKS with lil gun?

My 220 smks were loaded with 8.0grains of lil gun. My average fps was 975. It was also very quiet through a can.

Ok, you guys almost have me half retard on this.  I tried the pipe cutter since I have a 5 gallon bucket of brass and a couple pipe cutters.  It was a bit slow and tedious.

I finally got a chance to stop at HF on the way home.  That drillmaster chop saw is $5 off and with a 20% coopon is $24 and change out the door (SEP17, 2013).  It sure makes a nice, clean cut.

So I also hopped on the Amazon and got some Hornady dies and the LEE FCD, along with a 'Worlds Finest Trimmer".  

I don't have powder, primer, or boolits yet, or even a barrel....but this sets my fate. I need to buy a few Dillon 650 bits to get this to full retard.

I haven't managed to make it though all of the pages of this thread, but have to ask based on my existing inventory:  have any loads been made up with Unique, 231, WST, or 571?  Send an IM if there is a chance the mods frilly panties will crawl up their sphincter about such a noob reloader question. Otherwise, I will figure it out as I wait for my stuff to ship.


Edit:  I just read page 2, rather than skimming.  I didn't know W296 was the same as H110.  I didn't mention it because I thought it might be too hot.

Welcome aboard. It's a fun round to reload for. Little spending to start but fun.

To my knowledge none of those powders have been used. Your main powders are H110, A1680, and Lil Gun.

I have Brass on the way.  Most of the parts for the Upper are here waiting on the handguard.  Just need to find Powder to use.

MAHA

Due to the lack of 1680 in my area I will have  to switch over to lil gun. I had some original super loads developed for lil gun and  147's, but I lost the data.

This sucks as I just got my 1680 load dialed in.

My best accuracy with the 150 grain Hornady BTs was 15.5 grains of lil'gun.  I tried several different loads from 14.9 up to 16.5 and 15.5 gave the best accuracy in my 9.5" upper.  I would suspect that something similar would be best for the 147's, so it might get you close.



 

What OAL did you use if you don't mind me asking?

I loaded those up to 2.07".  They fed and shot fine at that length for me.  I used a Lee FCD on them, too, fwiw.



 

I just hopped up my saw a bit. I do a bit of sheet metal with vehicle builds, so I have a lot of 18ga laying about. Anyone can make this with very basic hand tools and perhaps a dremel. No way I was gonna pay $50 for a jig and Devcon prosteel is too expensive to waste. I made two tabs as you can see and drilled and tapped the plate for a 10-32 shcs. One tab extends through the vice and supports the case. Both locating screws are red loctited in place. Trim length is approx. 1.42". A setscrew holds the drive screw in place. I removed the setscrew and vice screw. I drilled the threads out of the block so the spring holds the brass in place. No I will not make anyone a set. Since this was scrap and junk bin stuff, all it cost me was drinking time.



















I am going to change the on off switch to a momentary push button, and get rid of that stupid stop block.



I also tried the pipe cutter idea.  Since we are worried about work hardening the neck, I think that method is not a good idea without annealing.