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Thanks for the welcome. Barnes showed 20.2 grains H110 the max load on their data. I went with the middle of the load range in terms of charge. They used Fed 205's in their original load. They have since changed the trim length to 1.358" (this is only in the last few weeks I might add). I used their original 1.368" specification with what seems like a great result.
Here is a link to their load data for the 300 AAC Blackout cartridge using the 110 gr TAC-TX round. http://www.barnesbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/02/300-AAC-Blackout-110gr-TAC-TX.pdf Can't wait to experiment with the subs a little. |
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Originally Posted By arklatexgeo:
Thanks for the welcome. Barnes showed 20.2 grains H110 the max load on their data. I went with the middle of the load range in terms of charge. They used Fed 205's in their original load. They have since changed the trim length to 1.358" (this is only in the last few weeks I might add). I used their original 1.368" specification with what seems like a great result. Here is a link to their load data for the 300 AAC Blackout cartridge using the 110 gr TAC-TX round. http://www.barnesbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/02/300-AAC-Blackout-110gr-TAC-TX.pdf Can't wait to experiment with the subs a little. http://www.barnesbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/02/300-AAC-Blackout-110gr-TAC-TX.pdf ETA: BTW, Welcome to ARFCOM. |
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Originally Posted By xtreme762:
Originally Posted By arklatexgeo:
Thanks for the welcome. Barnes showed 20.2 grains H110 the max load on their data. I went with the middle of the load range in terms of charge. They used Fed 205's in their original load. They have since changed the trim length to 1.358" (this is only in the last few weeks I might add). I used their original 1.368" specification with what seems like a great result. Here is a link to their load data for the 300 AAC Blackout cartridge using the 110 gr TAC-TX round. http://www.barnesbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/02/300-AAC-Blackout-110gr-TAC-TX.pdf Can't wait to experiment with the subs a little. http://www.barnesbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/02/300-AAC-Blackout-110gr-TAC-TX.pdf ETA: BTW, Welcome to ARFCOM. Thanks for the welcome, bro. I saw that Barnes page. That's where I got the original load data. They apparently changed the trim length by 0.01" since I got it. I KNOW it said 1.368" when I first grabbed it. They probably caught a typo and changed it on the quick. Can't blame them. Nonetheless, the loads using that trim length worked just fine. I put a light crimp on the bullet and had absolutely no problems with it at all. I'll certainly try the new spec in the next batch I load up. The ones I loaded up to the 1.368" spec worked flawlessly. Fairly quiet as subsonic loads go, cycled the action in a brand new rifle just fine, and didn't show any pressure signs or blown out primers. Loading up subs this weekend to see what they do. Any advice or loading start points are welcomed. |
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Originally Posted By MRBLACK947: I scored a couple three or four pounds of some old steel core FMJ .308 cal bullets from my father in laws boss. They scale at 150g. They had been sitting in his shed for probably 30+ years. I'm guessing there is a couple hundred anyways. I've been throwing a handful in the tumbler every evening trying to clean them up a bit. Anyways, My starting load I am going to try is 15.9g of Lilgun with these 150g bullets. Does this sound like a decent starting point? I'll figure out the COAL tonight. Edit, Will be shooting out of 16" Rainier Arms select SS barrel 8.5 twist. Carbine gas system. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff208/Mr__Black/Firearms/photo1_zpse1877d4c.jpg I started at 14.5 grs Lil'Gun and worked up to 15.5 grs. As 15.5 grs was the max in my data. So I would start a lot lower and work up. Those bullets are cleaning up fine. You on the wet or dry side of the state?
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By MRBLACK947:
I scored a couple three or four pounds of some old steel core FMJ .308 cal bullets from my father in laws boss. They scale at 150g. They had been sitting in his shed for probably 30+ years. I'm guessing there is a couple hundred anyways. I've been throwing a handful in the tumbler every evening trying to clean them up a bit. Anyways, My starting load I am going to try is 15.9g of Lilgun with these 150g bullets. Does this sound like a decent starting point? I'll figure out the COAL tonight. Edit, Will be shooting out of 16" Rainier Arms select SS barrel 8.5 twist. Carbine gas system. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff208/Mr__Black/Firearms/photo1_zpse1877d4c.jpg I started at 14.5 grs Lil'Gun and worked up to 15.5 grs. As 15.5 grs was the max in my data. So I would start a lot lower and work up. Those bullets are cleaning up fine. You on the wet or dry side of the state? Thanks for the advice as usual dryflash. Wet side. I'm in the Puyallup area next to Paul Bunyan rifle range. |
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Originally Posted By MRBLACK947:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By MRBLACK947:
I scored a couple three or four pounds of some old steel core FMJ .308 cal bullets from my father in laws boss. They scale at 150g. They had been sitting in his shed for probably 30+ years. I'm guessing there is a couple hundred anyways. I've been throwing a handful in the tumbler every evening trying to clean them up a bit. Anyways, My starting load I am going to try is 15.9g of Lilgun with these 150g bullets. Does this sound like a decent starting point? I'll figure out the COAL tonight. Edit, Will be shooting out of 16" Rainier Arms select SS barrel 8.5 twist. Carbine gas system. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff208/Mr__Black/Firearms/photo1_zpse1877d4c.jpg I started at 14.5 grs Lil'Gun and worked up to 15.5 grs. As 15.5 grs was the max in my data. So I would start a lot lower and work up. Those bullets are cleaning up fine. You on the wet or dry side of the state? Thanks for the advice as usual dryflash. Wet side. I'm in the Puyallup area next to Paul Bunyan rifle range. I shot at a range in that area back in the 90's, wander if it was the same range. I recall the range having incremental target lines. So you could use the same range to shoot all distances. Cant remember what the max line was though. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By MRBLACK947: I scored a couple three or four pounds of some old steel core FMJ .308 cal bullets from my father in laws boss. They scale at 150g. They had been sitting in his shed for probably 30+ years. I'm guessing there is a couple hundred anyways. I've been throwing a handful in the tumbler every evening trying to clean them up a bit. Anyways, My starting load I am going to try is 15.9g of Lilgun with these 150g bullets. Does this sound like a decent starting point? I'll figure out the COAL tonight. Edit, Will be shooting out of 16" Rainier Arms select SS barrel 8.5 twist. Carbine gas system. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff208/Mr__Black/Firearms/photo1_zpse1877d4c.jpg I started at 14.5 grs Lil'Gun and worked up to 15.5 grs. As 15.5 grs was the max in my data. So I would start a lot lower and work up. Those bullets are cleaning up fine. You on the wet or dry side of the state? Dryflash, can you please help me (reloading noob)/us understand something? The data chevcamo posted back on page 24 from Hornady's book as related to 150 grain interlock SP bullets said that the minimum load was 11.8 and the max was 17.0 for Lil'Gun. I've shot up to 16.1 so far with the 150 grain Nosler BT's at both 2.22 and 2.07 OAL and didn't see pressure signs for either, so I'm just curious as to why he should only shoot up to 15.5 with the 150 grain steel core bullets. Is it because of a different bullet profile (more in the case, for instance), or is it because the outer jacket is softer/harder and causes more pressure to be built up behind the bullet? I'm just trying to learn, so please don't take this as an offensive question... There are still a *LOT* of things I don't understand about reloading. I'm just curious as to why you said to load only between 14.5 and 15.5. FWIW, my most accurate loads with the 150's that I've tried so far are with 15.6 grains. A couple others said they used 15.5 and got their best accuracy with them using that powder load. (tried 14.6, 14.9, 15.3, 15.6 and 16.1) Thanks for the help. |
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Originally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By MRBLACK947:
I scored a couple three or four pounds of some old steel core FMJ .308 cal bullets from my father in laws boss. They scale at 150g. They had been sitting in his shed for probably 30+ years. I'm guessing there is a couple hundred anyways. I've been throwing a handful in the tumbler every evening trying to clean them up a bit. Anyways, My starting load I am going to try is 15.9g of Lilgun with these 150g bullets. Does this sound like a decent starting point? I'll figure out the COAL tonight. Edit, Will be shooting out of 16" Rainier Arms select SS barrel 8.5 twist. Carbine gas system. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff208/Mr__Black/Firearms/photo1_zpse1877d4c.jpg I started at 14.5 grs Lil'Gun and worked up to 15.5 grs. As 15.5 grs was the max in my data. So I would start a lot lower and work up. Those bullets are cleaning up fine. You on the wet or dry side of the state? Dryflash, can you please help me (reloading noob)/us understand something? The data chevcamo posted back on page 24 from Hornady's book as related to 150 grain interlock SP bullets said that the minimum load was 11.8 and the max was 17.0 for Lil'Gun. I've shot up to 16.1 so far with the 150 grain Nosler BT's at both 2.22 and 2.07 OAL and didn't see pressure signs for either, so I'm just curious as to why he should only shoot up to 15.5 with the 150 grain steel core bullets. Is it because of a different bullet profile (more in the case, for instance), or is it because the outer jacket is softer/harder and causes more pressure to be built up behind the bullet? I'm just trying to learn, so please don't take this as an offensive question... There are still a *LOT* of things I don't understand about reloading. I'm just curious as to why you said to load only between 14.5 and 15.5. FWIW, my most accurate loads with the 150's that I've tried so far are with 15.6 grains. A couple others said they used 15.5 and got their best accuracy with them using that powder load. (tried 14.6, 14.9, 15.3, 15.6 and 16.1) Thanks for the help. dryflash's load data for 150gn bullets had a max listed as 15.5gn of Lil'Gun. ETA: I've gone up to 17gn with the 150gn bullets. But not accurately. So I figure why waste the powder, primers, and bullets on loads that aren't accurate. |
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ETA: Found my answer. Thanks.
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<snip>
Originally Posted By rob99rt: Originally Posted By dryflash3: I started at 14.5 grs Lil'Gun and worked up to 15.5 grs. As 15.5 grs was the max in my data. So I would start a lot lower and work up. Those bullets are cleaning up fine. You on the wet or dry side of the state? Dryflash, can you please help me (reloading noob)/us understand something? The data chevcamo posted back on page 24 from Hornady's book as related to 150 grain interlock SP bullets said that the minimum load was 11.8 and the max was 17.0 for Lil'Gun. I've shot up to 16.1 so far with the 150 grain Nosler BT's at both 2.22 and 2.07 OAL and didn't see pressure signs for either, so I'm just curious as to why he should only shoot up to 15.5 with the 150 grain steel core bullets. Is it because of a different bullet profile (more in the case, for instance), or is it because the outer jacket is softer/harder and causes more pressure to be built up behind the bullet? I'm just trying to learn, so please don't take this as an offensive question... There are still a *LOT* of things I don't understand about reloading. I'm just curious as to why you said to load only between 14.5 and 15.5. FWIW, my most accurate loads with the 150's that I've tried so far are with 15.6 grains. A couple others said they used 15.5 and got their best accuracy with them using that powder load. (tried 14.6, 14.9, 15.3, 15.6 and 16.1) Thanks for the help. I am going on what the data I had listed and how they shot in my rifle. If you have published data and work up carefully, you can load following your data. My personal experience with 147 gr FMJ's (almost the same thing as a 150 gr bullet) is the pressure can build suddenly and you will start blowing primers. Also why I quit using H-110 with bullets over 135 grs.
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Thanks Dryflash and xtreme762. I see what you mean... no sense in loading any higher powder charge when it's just not accurate, and above 15.5 was when the accuracy started to deteriorate. No sense having a faster bullet when you can't hit what you're aiming at with it.
I appreciate the clarification. Have a good one. |
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Luke 22:36 - And Jesus said to them, "But now, whoever has a money belt is to take it along, likewise also a bag, and whoever has no sword is to sell his coat and buy one.
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I just found my next load. VERY NICE!!!! I found LilGun at the range yesterday.
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Originally Posted By bm3:
I found a great load for the Sierra 125 /2121c bullets Case LC Primer cci450 Sierra 125/2121c COAL2.223 Powder LIL GUN 17.6 grains 2250 FPS Temp 90 Nice work bm3. I have a load very similar to that all set up but not tested yet. Nearly the same everything but with 17.4g. Lilgun, 125g 2121 sierra, I am also coming up with a COAL of 2.165 to 2.170. Using tin 30 round magazines. I take it they were feeding just fine at that length? I set my COAL up per dryflashes instructions at the beginning of this thread. Unfortunately I am not gonna get back out to the range till next Saturday. |
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Nice work, bm3...or should I say "boats"?
Not a lot of clearance in those mags, huh? Have you loaded those into PMags or something similar yet? I loaded some into a Swamp Fox mag the other day and had no problem. COAL was 2.250" |
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Originally Posted By arklatexgeo:
Nice work, bm3...or should I say "boats"? Not a lot of clearance in those mags, huh? Have you loaded those into PMags or something similar yet? I loaded some into a Swamp Fox mag the other day and had no problem. COAL was 2.250" There is more room in the mag than it looks. I haven't tried any Pmags yet. |
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Do any of you guys process on a 1050??
Having some troubles after brass goes threw the trim die, the inside neck diameter is .295.... I don't want to run a expander ball back threw it as I just trimmed to length! What would be an option ( on the press) to get the mouths back open a bit? Or will .295 even be a problem? |
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I run an expander after a 1200b, oal brass length changes very little and does so consistently enough that it is not an issue.
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Whats very little? A thousandth?
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Does anyone have any tips/tricks to holding onto the brass while trimming with the giraud? I have a hard time holding onto the brass as it tends to spin in between my fingers. I have tried gloves and pliers but was curious if there is something else. Any help would be appreciated.
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What is the lowest you would go in terms of case length before you pitched the case? I got some a while back that were in the 1.34 range. Are those too short? I didn't measure the shoulder on them.
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Ok so is that consistent? Have you tried it with mixed brass.
That's weird that it loses length, I thought it would have stretched it out more |
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Just ordered the trim die from Brad's Warehouse and the power trimmer from Dillon for my 650. I should be in business soon.
Upper is built less whatever optic I choose to use. I've got an Eotech and a Trijicon Accupoint 1-4X not mounted right now. |
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Originally Posted By arklatexgeo:
What is the lowest you would go in terms of case length before you pitched the case? I got some a while back that were in the 1.34 range. Are those too short? I didn't measure the shoulder on them. I have loaded and shot some botched resizing that were 1.33" without a problem, there are no abnormal safety concerns provided there is enough neck tension not to set the bullet back in to the case during chambering. Originally Posted By tillermiller:
Ok so is that consistent? Have you tried it with mixed brass. That's weird that it loses length, I thought it would have stretched it out more When you start mixing brass you will see variations, the same head stamps will be consistent within usable reason. The expander encounter the most resistance as it plunges in to the case force the neck down slightly resulting in a shorter oal. The only brass I have had problems with is Sellier and Bellot, goes right in the scrap bucket now, I don't even give it a chance as the brass is absurdly hard. Obviously this observation is solely based from the lots that have wound up mixed with my other brass. |
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That really helps a lot! Thanks! So i can load up the ones that are a little short as long as they seat the bullet properly. I need to mic the shoulders on some of these too. May go do that at lunch.
Thanks for the help! |
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Instead of measuring the shoulder with a mic, I highly suggest you purchase and use a case guage. This will insure your sizing is within the specs it should be, I use an LE Wilson quite often - http://www.midwayusa.com/product/714043/le-wilson-case-length-headspace-gage-300-aac-blackout-762x35mm
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<snip> When you start mixing brass you will see variations, the same head stamps will be consistent within usable reason. The expander encounter the most resistance as it plunges in to the case force the neck down slightly resulting in a shorter oal. The only brass I have had problems with is Sellier and Bellot, goes right in the scrap bucket now, I don't even give it a chance as the brass is absurdly hard. Obviously this observation is solely based from the lots that have wound up mixed with my other brass. Are you annealing your cases when forming? I just got a batch of 223 S&B once fired, going to have to try forming them into 300 blk.
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When I first built my 300 I was having some problems with short stroking and not locking the bolt back on the last round.
I went to a carbine buffer from an H2 and I opened the gas port hole up another .010". The gun cycles great now on 125 -150g supersonics. I am now getting dented case mouths with this configuration. Is that pretty normal with this cartridge? I guess the case mouth is getting thrown into the brass deflector? To keep this in the reloading forum theme, is this a problem for the dies to handle? and will it shorten the life of the brass? Also, on the subject of annealed brass, how often should this be done? |
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Anyone have any luck with Sierra 168gr Matchkings?
I bought a bunch of the blems from powder valley. If they dont work out they can be .308 "pratice" ammo. |
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Formed 60 S&B 223 cases to 300 blk today.
They are in the tumbler with corn cob now, getting the lube removed. No problems encountered. I annealed before forming, as this is my standard process. The primer pockets were tight and some of the cases had a primer crimp. Crimp was removed and primer pockets uniformed while cases were still 223's. All of the 223 S&B cases I have worked with/loaded have very tight primer pockets that required uniforming. Otherwise priming was almost impossible. Once uniformed, the cases load well.
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Originally Posted By MRBLACK947:
When I first built my 300 I was having some problems with short stroking and not locking the bolt back on the last round. I went to a carbine buffer from an H2 and I opened the gas port hole up another .010". The gun cycles great now on 125 -150g supersonics. I am now getting dented case mouths with this configuration. Is that pretty normal with this cartridge? I guess the case mouth is getting thrown into the brass deflector? To keep this in the reloading forum theme, is this a problem for the dies to handle? and will it shorten the life of the brass? Also, on the subject of annealed brass, how often should this be done? Dented case mouths are perfectly normal. Reload and shoot again. |
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Originally Posted By MRBLACK947:
I went to a carbine buffer from an H2 and I opened the gas port hole up another .010". When I built my 300, a friend who is also a gunsmith advised me to open the gas port up to 0.125" using a drill bit taped off to prevent over penetration into the bore and possible contact with the lands on the opposite side of the bore. It seems to have worked quite nicely as I haven't had any cycling problems with supersonics while the only short-cycles I have had have been with low charge weights (less than about 10.8 grains) of H4198 under Berger 210-grain BTHP loaded as subsonics. My subsonic load experiments up to now are showing good promise around the 11.1 to 10.9 grain charges of H4198 behind those same projos. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Formed 60 S&B 223 cases to 300 blk today. All of the 223 S&B cases I have worked with/loaded have very tight primer pockets that required uniforming. That's pretty typical for S&B in most calibers, otherwise it's decent brass in my experience. They are probably still "in spec" though... 0.1730 is the minimum primer pocket size, while 0.1765 is the maximum primer diameter. In reality, most primers are held in by more like 0.002 press fit. |
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This may have been covered in the previous 30 pages and 300 threads so I appologize in advance...
Does it matter how many firings are on the .223 brass that is being formed for 300 Blk? I'm not talking about loose primer pockets or ringed, about-to-seperate cases, but ones that have unknown firings on them but still pass inspection. How do the pressure points compare? |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
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Originally Posted By Dracster: This may have been covered in the previous 30 pages and 300 threads so I appologize in advance... Does it matter how many firings are on the .223 brass that is being formed for 300 Blk? I'm not talking about loose primer pockets or ringed, about-to-seperate cases, but ones that have unknown firings on them but still pass inspection. How do the pressure points compare? To me it's not worth the effort to form anything but once fired cases. When I first started forming cases, I used 223 cases that were odd ball unknown number of times fired. Once I had my process perfected, I switched to once fired cases. |
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Originally Posted By EvilBetty:
I ran my first case through my Hornady sizer (L&L AP Press) to try to form the case. I deprimed and then cleaned all my brass. I cut down LC .223 brass on a HF trim saw down to 1.37" I deburred and chamfered. Lubed cut down cases. Installed the resizing die until it hit the shell plate, then backed it off a 1/4 turn and then tightened down the collar. Adjusted deprimer until it was sticking out 1/4 of an inch. Inserted a case and resized it. It worked smoothly so I ran through five more. They all came out clean and consistent. Problem came when I held them next to a piece of Factory AAC brass and inserted them into my Sheridan case gauge. The shoulder location when compared to the factory piece of brass is much higher on the case. I lowered the die another 1/8 of a turn with no change. The factory brass sits 0.001" inside the case gauge. The reformed brass sticks out about 0.035" from the case gauge. Anyone else run into this? Factory Brass on Left http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Guns/IMG_20130716_100506.jpg Reformed Brass http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Guns/IMG_20130716_100641.jpg Factory Brass http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Guns/IMG_20130716_100610.jpg Get a thinner shell holder, and size it down further. Redding has competition shell holders that are pretty thin, good luck finding some right now, though. Other than Redding, I have found the Lee shell holder works pretty well. |
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Originally Posted By xtreme762:
Get a thinner shell holder, and size it down further. Redding has competition shell holders that are pretty thin, good luck finding some right now, though. Other than Redding, I have found the Lee shell holder works pretty well. You can also sand a little off the top of an existing shell holder. Or if you have a 380 shell holder somewhere, you could try that instead, might be thinner. |
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Originally Posted By Gigs:
Originally Posted By xtreme762:
Get a thinner shell holder, and size it down further. Redding has competition shell holders that are pretty thin, good luck finding some right now, though. Other than Redding, I have found the Lee shell holder works pretty well. You can also sand a little off the top of an existing shell holder. Or if you have a 380 shell holder somewhere, you could try that instead, might be thinner. Turret press with turret shell plates. Can't really sand on these :) Turned out I just really needed to crank down the die. I thought it wasn't going to cam over at first but it still did and now the brass looks fine. |
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Dryflash, I remember you loaded some 30 carbine to try earlier in the thread but I don't remember you talking about how they performed. Are they worth it for cheap plinking purposes? If so, what load? I just bought an AAC mpw 16inch and I'm currently gathering components. Seems like the cheapest option.
Jeff |
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Is there a reason no one is using the Max OAL for their rounds, or at least close to it? I'm currently loading 300 Blackout at 2.255" for workup/test loads.
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Originally Posted By Fossil4Life:
Is there a reason no one is using the Max OAL for their rounds, or at least close to it? I'm currently loading 300 Blackout at 2.255" for workup/test loads. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Fossil4Life:
Is there a reason no one is using the Max OAL for their rounds, or at least close to it? I'm currently loading 300 Blackout at 2.255" for workup/test loads. Many projectiles will cause magazine issues when loaded to 2.25", if the bullets contact the magazine ribs with much force the cartridge stack will become altered inducing a chance to cause jams internal to a magazine. Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Are you annealing your cases when forming? I just got a batch of 223 S&B once fired, going to have to try forming them into 300 blk. I anneal only Win brass that is ran strictly through my bolt action rifles. |
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Originally Posted By PhreakMode:
Many projectiles will cause magazine issues when loaded to 2.25", if the bullets contact the magazine ribs with much force the cartridge stack will become altered inducing a chance to cause jams internal to a magazine. View Quote Thank you for the reply. If I use PMAGs and Lancer L5 mags, will I still run into that problem. I mic'd my rounds and ensured that they were not "too" long. |
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Originally Posted By jgieske: Dryflash, I remember you loaded some 30 carbine to try earlier in the thread but I don't remember you talking about how they performed. Are they worth it for cheap plinking purposes? If so, what load? I just bought an AAC mpw 16inch and I'm currently gathering components. Seems like the cheapest option. Jeff View Quote Dismal failure. They wouldn't feed. Insert mag, close bolt chambering round, fire, and next round would nose dive in mag. I quit after 4 cycles of this. Pulled the bullets, experiment over.
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Originally Posted By Fossil4Life: Is there a reason no one is using the Max OAL for their rounds, or at least close to it? I'm currently loading 300 Blackout at 2.255" for workup/test loads. View Quote I only use 2.250 with bullets designed for 300 blk. Like the Barnes TAC-TX. Other 30 cal bullets use the method I posted on page 1. It's what AAC recommends. (AAC developed the 300 blk) This is done so the shorter 300 blk round will feed from a 223 standard mag.
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Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Does anyone have any tips/tricks to holding onto the brass while trimming with the giraud? I have a hard time holding onto the brass as it tends to spin in between my fingers. I have tried gloves and pliers but was curious if there is something else. Any help would be appreciated. View Quote There was a you tube video, I wish I could remember more, but the fella used a Lee hand priming tool and shell holder. He would pop the case in the shell holder, and squeeze the priming handle, and this would make the case easier to hold onto, and prevent it from spinning while trimming. I think the trick was to use the large primer ram, it would still clear the hole in the shell holder, but would not fit the small primer hole in the case, this would allow the priming tool to operate as a lever operated case holder. HTH |
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Sorry, DT
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