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Posted: 5/30/2013 1:04:50 AM EDT
[#1]
Man I'm having trouble justifying spending $60 on a piece of aluminum when the saw is only $30!
What length does that Jig cut to? I'm Tempted to just make my own. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 1:10:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: chevcamo]
[#2]
From what I've seen the price on eBay versus getting from on the forum is like $7 more last time I looked at his thread and last time I saw it on eBay.
InfiniteGrim, you could make this thing. Cheapo 300 BLK Trimmer |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 1:12:57 AM EDT
[#3]
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
From what I've seen the price on eBay versus getting from on the forum is like $15 more last time I looked at his thread and last time I saw it on eBay. InfiniteGrim, you could make this thing. Cheapo 300 BLK Trimmer $2 difference tonight. Forum ad says $55, ebay is $57. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 1:14:15 AM EDT
[#4]
Damn, I just tried signing up for 300blktalk and got "Too much spam from this domain."
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Posted: 5/30/2013 1:23:54 AM EDT
[#5]
Originally Posted By medicmandan:
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
From what I've seen the price on eBay versus getting from on the forum is like $15 more last time I looked at his thread and last time I saw it on eBay. InfiniteGrim, you could make this thing. Cheapo 300 BLK Trimmer $2 difference tonight. Forum ad says $55, ebay is $57. Yeah, I just looked and then changed my post. Last time I looked he wasn't offering the jigs Anodized, that may be the price difference from what I remember. This thread says $50, where did you get the $55? |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 3:17:29 AM EDT
[#6]
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim: Man I'm having trouble justifying spending $60 on a piece of aluminum when the saw is only $30! What length does that Jig cut to? I'm Tempted to just make my own. the jig is well worth the price. Granted, I bought mine in December and paid less than current price. It's got about 30k through it. The HF saw.. I'm on my 4th one as they seem to crap out at about the 10k mark when the spring that lifts the saw breaks. the blades are good for about 8k. Not sure of the belt life, but they do start to scream a bit louder around the same time the blade needs to be replaced. As long as you keep your receipt and it's within 90 days you can exchange for a new. Or just buy the replacement coverage for $7. The gal at HF finally convinced me to buy it on the last one. the other saw I contemplated last time the HF saw crapped out was a Proxxon, and it's over $200 http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37160-KGS-MICRO-Chop/dp/B001AT5H1C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1369897873&sr=8-4&keywords=proxxon+tools The benefit of that saw if the larger blade size gives you more options in blades. Some one posted that they used a BOsch OSC212TC 2 1/2" blade. For $20, buy 2 packs of the HF replacement blades. That blade just tore up the brass.
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Posted: 5/30/2013 6:33:03 AM EDT
[#7]
There is a much cheaper solution. Take a short , about 1 1/4" by 1/2 inch piece of flat steel, May have to shorten it some. Drill a small hole in it one end. Remove the clamp on the attached vice and using a small machine screw and nut attached it by the already drilled hole in the vice. Put it back together and trim. Cuts my brass to almost the exact length.
The jig is faster no doubt, but the other way is cheap. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 9:26:10 AM EDT
[#8]
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
Originally Posted By medicmandan:
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
From what I've seen the price on eBay versus getting from on the forum is like $15 more last time I looked at his thread and last time I saw it on eBay. InfiniteGrim, you could make this thing. Cheapo 300 BLK Trimmer $2 difference tonight. Forum ad says $55, ebay is $57. Yeah, I just looked and then changed my post. Last time I looked he wasn't offering the jigs Anodized, that may be the price difference from what I remember. This thread says $50, where did you get the $55? Just a typo. It is $50. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 2:46:18 PM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim: Will I have any length issues loading the tracers on the left? They are 146gr (M62). I'm thinking I should use 160-180gr data? 146gr Tracer, 165gr Sierra Gameking, 125gr Nosler http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g165/InfiniteGrim/IMG_0628-1.jpg 146 gr tracer, I would use 150 gr data. Would set my OAL as per posted methos on page 1. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 3:47:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Not sure if this has been discussed or not;
Any thoughts on forming .300 blackout from unfired 5.56mm blanks? I've been messing around forming cases from a stash of about 200 blanks that have been in my stash of junk since the late 90's. My idea is that with primers being a major choke point it would be nice to be able to repurpose the blanks and use the primers already seated. |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 5/30/2013 4:46:50 PM EDT
[#11]
Originally Posted By Stormhawk:
Not sure if this has been discussed or not; Any thoughts on forming .300 blackout from unfired 5.56mm blanks? I've been messing around forming cases from a stash of about 200 blanks that have been in my stash of junk since the late 90's. My idea is that with primers being a major choke point it would be nice to be able to repurpose the blanks and use the primers already seated. I have 1000 fired blanks on the way to convert...but don't know what primers are used in the blanks. It would certainly be nice to be able to trim, size, and load, though. Please keep us posted on this! Thanks, Noveau |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 4:51:45 PM EDT
[#12]
Originally Posted By Noveau:
Originally Posted By Stormhawk:
Not sure if this has been discussed or not; Any thoughts on forming .300 blackout from unfired 5.56mm blanks? I've been messing around forming cases from a stash of about 200 blanks that have been in my stash of junk since the late 90's. My idea is that with primers being a major choke point it would be nice to be able to repurpose the blanks and use the primers already seated. I have 1000 fired blanks on the way to convert...but don't know what primers are used in the blanks. It would certainly be nice to be able to trim, size, and load, though. Please keep us posted on this! Thanks, Noveau They can be used. There is a thread either on here or the 300 blk forum. Not sure about the primers though. I have a little over 900 I'll get around to doing once I get around to getting that block for the saw. I FINALLY found some hornady dies in stock and are on the way to my house. Once they get here I have two rebate form to fill out and send for my free bullets. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 4:58:53 PM EDT
[#13]
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
I FINALLY found some hornady dies in stock and are on the way to my house. Once they get here I have two rebate form to fill out and send for my free bullets. I have about 900 rounds worth of rebate forms I need to send in. What bullets are you guys choosing? The 3031 30 CAL .308 150 GR SP for Blackout loads? |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 5:28:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: chevcamo]
[#14]
Originally Posted By EvilBetty:
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
I FINALLY found some hornady dies in stock and are on the way to my house. Once they get here I have two rebate form to fill out and send for my free bullets. I have about 900 rounds worth of rebate forms I need to send in. What bullets are you guys choosing? The 3031 30 CAL .308 150 GR SP for Blackout loads? I'm gonna get the 30 and 45 cal bullets. 30 cal for Blackout and 45 for either 45acp or keep them for loading for the 460 Rowland if I do in fact get a barrel for my XD. Which really I should probably just get the 45 cal bullets since I already have a few hundred bullets for the blackout to load. But not that many for the 45. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 5:40:14 PM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By EvilBetty: Originally Posted By chevcamo: I FINALLY found some hornady dies in stock and are on the way to my house. Once they get here I have two rebate form to fill out and send for my free bullets. I have about 900 rounds worth of rebate forms I need to send in. What bullets are you guys choosing? The 3031 30 CAL .308 150 GR SP for Blackout loads? What do you want your loads to do? Those bullets will work, myself I like the 110 and 125 gr bullets the best. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 6:54:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Stormhawk]
[#16]
I have 1000 fired blanks on the way to convert...but don't know what primers are used in the blanks. It would certainly be nice to be able to trim, size, and load, though. Please keep us posted on this!
Thanks, Noveau Just as an experiment I converted a handful this afternoon. The primers look like normal small rifle primers with a normal circular crimp holding them in place. The only thing thats strange is the small cannelure about 1/4 up from the base of the case. Not sure why its there as opposed to the case neck. I'll need to modify my case trimmer as well as my decapping pin in order to keep the primer in place while converting. Cutting the live blank was a little aggravating as there was powder spilling all over the place and a few times I was afraid it would ignite because of the head from the cutter. I have no reason to think that fired blanks would be any different than regular .223 brass. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 6:59:34 PM EDT
[#17]
I'm glad j thought about this.. if using blanks, you will need a swager for the primer pocket. When I get hone I'll look for the thread I mentioned about the guy using blanks and he also messed with some steel cases too.
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Posted: 5/30/2013 8:08:55 PM EDT
[#18]
I'm glad j thought about this.. if using blanks, you will need a swager for the primer pocket. When I get hone I'll look for the thread I mentioned about the guy using blanks and he also messed with some steel cases too.
Yeah, a swager is another one of those pieces of gear I'll get around to buying. Right now, I need to figure out a way to convert live blanks while keeping the primer in place. It's a win, win situation if I can figure it out. Virgin brass, already primed. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 9:18:02 PM EDT
[#19]
Originally Posted By Stormhawk: Not sure if this has been discussed or not; Any thoughts on forming .300 blackout from unfired 5.56mm blanks? I've been messing around forming cases from a stash of about 200 blanks that have been in my stash of junk since the late 90's. My idea is that with primers being a major choke point it would be nice to be able to repurpose the blanks and use the primers already seated. Yes it works and they turn out quite nice. I just finished turning 10k of them into 300BLK: 4k for a member and 6k as payment for conversion of the 4k. Here is a link to a thread on using M200's to load ball ammo. The OP did a tremendous job in researching the brass' characteristics, and documenting his results. |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 9:22:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: coug91]
[#20]
Originally Posted By Stormhawk: I have 1000 fired blanks on the way to convert...but don't know what primers are used in the blanks. It would certainly be nice to be able to trim, size, and load, though. Please keep us posted on this! Thanks, Noveau Just as an experiment I converted a handful this afternoon. The primers look like normal small rifle primers with a normal circular crimp holding them in place. The only thing thats strange is the small cannelure about 1/4 up from the base of the case. Not sure why its there as opposed to the case neck. I'll need to modify my case trimmer as well as my decapping pin in order to keep the primer in place while converting. Cutting the live blank was a little aggravating as there was powder spilling all over the place and a few times I was afraid it would ignite because of the head from the cutter. I have no reason to think that fired blanks would be any different than regular .223 brass. The knurling is there so Joe can readily identify blanks from live ball ammo in the dark. Most Joes are good kids, but left to their own devices, Joe will do some stupid shit. The link I posted above confirms that the brass is basically the same as that of ball ammo. |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 12:31:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: njogi]
[#21]
Anyone loaded 200 Sierra 200g MK's ?
I am thinking of starting sub load using N110 8.1g on AR pistol 8.5 barrel -pistol gas setup - plan to use it via a suppressor in future once the right load is found. I am thinking the bullet seating point might come to 2.1 OAL - in trying to get the bullet ogive point of .250 to be at the needed middle of the mag bump. This was closest I could get to having heavy weight available at the time. Waiting on heavier bullets to order but this might be a good to get start at the loading on this caliber now I have completed my build. I have to wait from for another month before I can shoot due to surgery. But can use time to load some up and check setup of an old crono to record. Any experience with this bullet weight might help ? |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 1:07:28 PM EDT
[#22]
Like to share my input on the WFT Trimmer ....I almost sent it back ...
But after a bit...I found out that if I set my band saw to cut the 5.56 cases a lot closer to length I want - meaning do not have to trim off a lot. then the Trim process works good. Also sizing the case a couple of times so it the case fits good enough in the WFT so it does not want to spin on you. I might also need a better battery drill - I am using a 12v one. I have to almost control my case going in slowly so the cutter does not grab it and make the case spin.. I guess have enough patient with it - it is bearable to the point I think I can use it until I save up for something better like trimmer from Dillon with the Trim dies for it. I have loaded mostly Hand Gun Calibers at this point and Rifle Caliber reloading demands a lot more which I will get better as time goes.. I wish like others who have said a better cutter design can help..but no complaints for the price. Great Thread - Lots of Help - Like to thank all for sharing and showing how to overcome issues experienced. 
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Posted: 5/31/2013 1:55:44 PM EDT
[#23]
Originally Posted By njogi: Like to share my input on the WFT Trimmer ....I almost sent it back ... But after a bit...I found out that if I set my band saw to cut the 5.56 cases a lot closer to length I want - meaning do not have to trim off a lot. then the Trim process works good. Also sizing the case a couple of times so it the case fits good enough in the WFT so it does not want to spin on you. I might also need a better battery drill - I am using a 12v one. I have to almost control my case going in slowly so the cutter does not grab it and make the case spin.. I guess have enough patient with it - it is bearable to the point I think I can use it until I save up for something better like trimmer from Dillon with the Trim dies for it. I have loaded mostly Hand Gun Calibers at this point and Rifle Caliber reloading demands a lot more which I will get better as time goes.. I wish like others who have said a better cutter design can help..but no complaints for the price. Great Thread - Lots of Help - Like to thank all for sharing and showing how to overcome issues experienced. Regarding the WFT grabbing the case, I found that if I wasn't spinning the drill pretty darn fast when I put the case in that it would grab it instead of cutting it. Basically, I hit the trigger, spin it up to full speed, and start trimming cases. It also helps if you have gloves or something to hold the case because otherwise it'll give you blisters on your fingers eventually.... |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 1:56:29 PM EDT
[#24]
It seems the faster you spin that WFT the better it cuts. My next batch of brass I do I am going to use my lathe to spin the trimmer. Seems like it will work great.
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Posted: 5/31/2013 2:30:42 PM EDT
[#25]
What the two above me said. The cutter used is an end mill that would under normal conditions be spinning at around 750-1250 RPMs depending on what would be being g cut on a milling machine. Spinning it slow will do nothing but grab. So give it all it has on the drill and have an extra battery or two on stand by. I have a micro lathe I'm going to use when I see about picking one of the trimmers up.
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Posted: 5/31/2013 4:35:21 PM EDT
[#26]
Thank You - I will try giving it a try with some grip type gloves and switch to a faster drill - I think the cheap 12v Drill is not working too good.
Annealing is also my next step also to start - I saw a nice Utube by Ammosmith on using a extended 12mm Socket with case mounted and rotating on a drill into the propane Torch Flame till blueish and dumping into water for quick cooling. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/31/2013 5:22:00 PM EDT
[#27]
Your N110 load with 200Mks will not work. You can try, but I wouldn't go buying the components if you don't already have them. Try reading back a few pages where we discuss this issue.
 
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Posted: 5/31/2013 11:23:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bip_master]
[#28]
Originally Posted By njogi:
Thank You - I will try giving it a try with some grip type gloves and switch to a faster drill - I think the cheap 12v Drill is not working too good. Annealing is also my next step also to start - I saw a nice Utube by Ammosmith on using a extended 12mm Socket with case mounted and rotating on a drill into the propane Torch Flame till blueish and dumping into water for quick cooling. Don't give up on the WFT. It is a great piece of equipment. The only downside I can find is that when I neck size only the brass will often not fit in the trimmer, so I have to go back and FL resize it. ETA: The above was for .308 cases. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 6/1/2013 4:51:31 PM EDT
[#29]
I am wanting to load Hornady 178 grain AMax over LilGun for my Rem 700 AAC bolt gun. I would like to keep it subsonic but don't think that is a real possibility. I would also like to be able to shoot it suppressed either way. This will be a hunting load only! The can is a Liberty Mystic.
1- What powder weight would you start with? 2-What would the the max load you would run it to? 3- Will it be stable enough to run it out of a can? Thanks for the help and advise in advance. |
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Posted: 6/2/2013 7:16:52 PM EDT
[#30]
bump
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/2/2013 7:55:20 PM EDT
[#31]
Anyone try loading with Alliant Power Pro 300-MP? Saw a short thread on 300blk about it and the few people seem to think its the new wonder powder for 300blk supersonics. Claims of 50-100fps higher velocity than h110 and lilgun with lower pressure too, and better temp stability.
I can't find any in stock anywhere to try out for myself yet though. |
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Posted: 6/2/2013 8:58:26 PM EDT
[#32]
Originally Posted By medicmandan:
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
Originally Posted By medicmandan:
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
From what I've seen the price on eBay versus getting from on the forum is like $15 more last time I looked at his thread and last time I saw it on eBay. InfiniteGrim, you could make this thing. Cheapo 300 BLK Trimmer $2 difference tonight. Forum ad says $55, ebay is $57. Yeah, I just looked and then changed my post. Last time I looked he wasn't offering the jigs Anodized, that may be the price difference from what I remember. This thread says $50, where did you get the $55? Just a typo. It is $50. This was free with scraps laying around. Fast workflow. You hold the brass with your finger. After the cut, you push the previous piece out of the way with the next. I am thinking of some kind of guard against the finger guillotine. 
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Posted: 6/4/2013 8:26:01 PM EDT
[#33]
SO I got everything i need to reload...... except when I ordered my giraud 3 months ago I didn't think I would need a 300 blackout holder! Doug was kind enough to get one in the mail to me ASAP
 .
Nice guy. Until harbor freight ships my chopsaw (and mini rotary tumbler for wet tumbling) I'm just going to have to use the giruad to trim the cases all the way down! |
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Posted: 6/4/2013 8:47:13 PM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim: SO I got everything i need to reload...... except when I ordered my giraud 3 months ago I didn't think I would need a 300 blackout holder! Doug was kind enough to get one in the mail to me ASAP .Nice guy. Until harbor freight ships my chopsaw (and mini rotary tumbler for wet tumbling) I'm just going to have to use the giruad to trim the cases all the way down! I've seen a few guys post the HF mini rotary, but figured it was too small for my needs. Started checking CL a couple weeks ago and snagged 2 nice rotary rock tumblers. One was a custom built, stainless steel with 2 Lortone 6 qt buckets, the second was an older Lortone with a 12qt bucket. Both for less than a new Thumblers. I'd have been happy with a Thumblers, these just came up, so I bought them. Stainless is definitely the way to go. |
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Posted: 6/4/2013 8:49:25 PM EDT
[#35]
Originally Posted By coug91:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
SO I got everything i need to reload...... except when I ordered my giraud 3 months ago I didn't think I would need a 300 blackout holder! Doug was kind enough to get one in the mail to me ASAP .
Nice guy. Until harbor freight ships my chopsaw (and mini rotary tumbler for wet tumbling) I'm just going to have to use the giruad to trim the cases all the way down! I've seen a few guys post the HF mini rotary, but figured it was too small for my needs. Started checking CL a couple weeks ago and snagged 2 nice rotary rock tumblers. One was a custom built, stainless steel with 2 Lortone 6 qt buckets, the second was an older Lortone with a 12qt bucket. Both for less than a new Thumblers. I'd have been happy with a Thumblers, these just came up, so I bought them. Stainless is definitely the way to go. I have 1lb of stainless media coming from ebay. I'm at school in an apartment, so I dont have the room for a full size tumbler. I figured the little 3lb unit would be perfect for my space restrictions. |
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Posted: 6/4/2013 9:00:14 PM EDT
[#36]
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim: Originally Posted By coug91: Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim: SO I got everything i need to reload...... except when I ordered my giraud 3 months ago I didn't think I would need a 300 blackout holder! Doug was kind enough to get one in the mail to me ASAP .Nice guy. Until harbor freight ships my chopsaw (and mini rotary tumbler for wet tumbling) I'm just going to have to use the giruad to trim the cases all the way down! I've seen a few guys post the HF mini rotary, but figured it was too small for my needs. Started checking CL a couple weeks ago and snagged 2 nice rotary rock tumblers. One was a custom built, stainless steel with 2 Lortone 6 qt buckets, the second was an older Lortone with a 12qt bucket. Both for less than a new Thumblers. I'd have been happy with a Thumblers, these just came up, so I bought them. Stainless is definitely the way to go. I have 1lb of stainless media coming from ebay. I'm at school in an apartment, so I dont have the room for a full size tumbler. I figured the little 3lb unit would be perfect for my space restrictions. One box of brass at a time...  |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 6/5/2013 7:57:12 AM EDT
[#37]
Loaded 20 300blk rounds last night. 18gr H110 under a 135gr SMK. I used the OAL from the hogedon data.
Shooting through a 8"bbl with syrac adj gas block. Hopefully they feed ok. The .250 spot on the bullet is pretty close to the bump on the mag. I'm wondering if the data takes only pressure into consideration or pressure and feeding . Will test with heavy buffer first and check for bolt lock back with gas block wide open. I'll bring a standard buffer also. |
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Posted: 6/6/2013 4:58:46 PM EDT
[#38]
Well its alot of trimmer, but the giraud will do it. Cant wait for my harbor freight tumbler and chop saw to get here!
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IN, USA
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Posted: 6/6/2013 5:26:53 PM EDT
[#39]
Originally Posted By BlackLabelM4:
Anyone try loading with Alliant Power Pro 300-MP? Saw a short thread on 300blk about it and the few people seem to think its the new wonder powder for 300blk supersonics. Claims of 50-100fps higher velocity than h110 and lilgun with lower pressure too, and better temp stability. I can't find any in stock anywhere to try out for myself yet though. I really, really like Alliant PP 300MP. I load Speer 125 TNT. I'll check later to see what my load is. |
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Posted: 6/6/2013 10:22:13 PM EDT
[#40]
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim: Well its alot of trimmer, but the giraud will do it. Cant wait for my harbor freight tumbler and chop saw to get here! http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g165/InfiniteGrim/20130606_163930.jpg You did better than I did, expanding 223 cases to 30 cal. About a third of mine split the necks. I lubed the inside of the necks with Imperial with a Q tip. What lube did you use? |
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Posted: 6/6/2013 10:42:13 PM EDT
[#41]
I had 5 split. I noticed that the twice fired brass split while the once fired had no issues
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Posted: 6/6/2013 10:45:39 PM EDT
[#42]
If I tried that again, I would anneal before forming.
What lube were you using?
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Posted: 6/6/2013 10:45:45 PM EDT
[#43]
I'm getting ready to start a run for the .300, the first time. But I have a question on the brass, and I'm almost positive it's been asked already a bizillion times. I'll do a search to see if I can find anything also. But want y'alls experience.
With stretching .223 brass that far to resize it .085" to allow for a .308 bullet. How many loadings are y'all getting on one piece of brass? Seems like not too many, but 3 would be nice before the necks split. What say you? |
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Posted: 6/6/2013 10:52:29 PM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
If I tried that again, I would anneal before forming. What lube were you using? My own special stuff! Its sewing machine oil. LINK I love this stuff with LEE dies because all I do is put my brass in a 1 gallon ziplock, squirt some in and mix it up. Makes lubing brass a non existant step  .
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Posted: 6/6/2013 11:40:30 PM EDT
[#45]
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim: Thanks.Originally Posted By dryflash3: If I tried that again, I would anneal before forming. What lube were you using? My own special stuff! Its sewing machine oil. LINK I love this stuff with LEE dies because all I do is put my brass in a 1 gallon ziplock, squirt some in and mix it up. Makes lubing brass a non existant step . |
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Posted: 6/6/2013 11:44:08 PM EDT
[#46]
I use the same lube method for all Lee dies, they just are not very picky like other dies.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/7/2013 8:31:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TrooperKbC]
[#47]
Originally Posted By xtreme762:
I'm getting ready to start a run for the .300, the first time. But I have a question on the brass, and I'm almost positive it's been asked already a bizillion times. I'll do a search to see if I can find anything also. But want y'alls experience. With stretching .223 brass that far to resize it .085" to allow for a .308 bullet. How many loadings are y'all getting on one piece of brass? Seems like not too many, but 3 would be nice before the necks split. What say you? The 300BLK neck falls below the shoulder of 223 brass. You're actually sizing DOWN at the 300BLK neck, not up. You can get just as many reloads as with any other. ETA: VIDEO |
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Posted: 6/7/2013 8:46:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: m411b30]
[#48]
Originally Posted By TrooperKbC:
The 300BLK neck falls below the shoulder of 223 brass. You're actually sizing DOWN at the 300BLK neck, not up. You can get just as many reloads as with any other. Wasn't thinking about trimming the cases below the .223 shoulder. I can be an idiot like that sometimes. 
Not sure even what put me on that thought. I think it was the above pictures dryflash has of the full cases resized to .300blk. Either way it was a dumb question. |
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Posted: 6/7/2013 11:48:41 PM EDT
[#49]
Originally Posted By TrooperKbC: Yes... if you rough cut before sizing. DF and IG both formed to 30 before cutting. Therefore, the 30 cal expander ball had to pass through the existing 22 cal case mouth and neck. Originally Posted By xtreme762: I'm getting ready to start a run for the .300, the first time. But I have a question on the brass, and I'm almost positive it's been asked already a bizillion times. I'll do a search to see if I can find anything also. But want y'alls experience. With stretching .223 brass that far to resize it .085" to allow for a .308 bullet. How many loadings are y'all getting on one piece of brass? Seems like not too many, but 3 would be nice before the necks split. What say you? The 300BLK neck falls below the shoulder of 223 brass. You're actually sizing DOWN at the 300BLK neck, not up. You can get just as many reloads as with any other. ETA: VIDEO |
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Posted: 6/7/2013 11:53:49 PM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: If I tried that again, I would anneal before forming. What lube were you using? Before forming after cutting at the shoulder; yes. Before cutting at the shoulder; no. The case will collapse at the shoulder. Granted, my test was 1 case, but it failed miserably, so I stopped. Expanding a non-annealed 223/556 case to 300 - I was splitting about 1/3 of the cases, so gave that up, too. That was with imperial sizing wax when I was using the rock chucker. Now I cut everything at the shoulder, tumble to knock the edges off (fatser than deburing, and I cn do more brass while the first batch is tumbling), anneal, form, wash, trim and decrimp. That works for me - YMMV |
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