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How to remove duracoat
eastky454  [Member]
The question has often been asked how to remove duracoat, so since I decided to refinish one of my guns that I duracoated a few years ago, I thought I would write up this breif tutorial on how I did it. First off, there are always questions as to how durable duracoat is. Well, let me tell you....if you want to remove it be prepared for some work because this stuff is tough and if applied correctly, it doesnt come off easily. I called LCW and they told me that they did not recommend any particular stripper or chemical and that I should sandblast it off. I didnt want to remove the anodizing, so this was the route that I went.

I started out with an AR that I did a digital pattern on a few years ago. It turned out ok, but I decided that I didnt really like it and I wanted to change the handguard as well.


All the plastic parts were removed and sandblasted with Aluminum oxide because the chemical strippers are not made for use on plastics.

I tried a few other stripper chemicals and found that Jasco Paint and Epoxy remover worked the best...although not perfect. Make sure you get the paint "and epoxy" remover. The normal paint remover wont do anything. A word of warning, make sure you have protective equiment on your hands and eyes. I managed to get a little on my arm even though I was using long gloves and it started burning my skin immediately.



After spraying the assemblies liberally and letting it sit a few minutes I could see some of the paint bubble up, but not all of it. I used a stainless steel brush to scrub the remainder of the bonded paint off.





One alternative is to soak the parts in Laquer thinner or MEK. After about 1 hour, you can see some of the paint bubble up, but not much. You can use the brush, dipped in the thinner and scrub the paint off. My advice would be to use the Jasco first, then use the thinner as a back up plan. The bad thing about using thinner is that it dries too quick and you have to keep dipping the brush in the thinner when you scrub. This seems to help remove the paint better than not keeping thinner on the part.

As you can see, you can get most of it off, but there still is some residual that you cannot get off unless you remove the anodizing. One thing that will also happen especially if you use the brush, is that the anodizing will smooth out a little. This is important to note if you plan on refinishing, as you need to rought it back up a little for the new duracoat to stick well.

Here is the final product after all duracoat was removed:


After a fresh coat of desert warrior dark earth and a little broomstraw accent, here is the final product:
Pault  [Moderator]
I like the old and I like the new even better, awesome tutorial !
bjwar10  [Member]

Originally Posted By Pault:
I like the old and I like the new even better, awesome tutorial !


+1

Although I'm a bit biased towards the new look.

I must say I'm a bit surprised the Duracoat came off that easily and completely.
eastky454  [Member]
I wouldnt really say that it came off easy. I had to really scrub with the wire brush and Jasco to get it off. At first, I tried a scotch brite pad and also some sandpaper just to see if it would take it off and it wouldnt do much to it at all. I tried citristrip and the Jasco paint on stripper and it wouldnt touch it either. On some of the parts, I had to use a wire wheel on a drill to get in tight places and that had a hard time getting it off as well. Overall, I would say that it is pretty tough paint if applied correctly.
perimedik  [Member]
it looks like Naval jelly works too .
That gets anything off of everything. I did a shotgun a little while back in Colt Gray. I want to change it and do the broom straw effect that is Tacked (that's bad ass). This is the old barrel when I pulled the shot gun out of my uncle's attic from years of storage. Naval jelly cleaned it right off. I did the 28 inch barrel and the 18 inch barrel.


Here (middle) its refinished with some parts from Havlin Gun Parts (trigger assembly and some others.


It's been coated about 8 months. I just did a little patch as a test a few days ago and it came right off.


If you try it later, Just remember to wear a respirator those fumes will kill you (seriously)
perimedik  [Member]
I'm gonna strip the both barrels and the receiver this weekend so I'll post pics maybe it can help others.



Check these out (BTW the logo looks like a Bolt Face )

A little bit of elbow grease with a nylon bristle brush in the tough parts, then the Carb cleaner to degrease at the end and presto...





Hope it helps someone...
FOXONE-AZ  [Team Member]
The JASCO stuff in the can works good to.I brushed it on with a pretty thin coat.

I redid my slide because I had dropped it the first time and I wanted it perfect, came out great this time,Im not touching for a week or so



This stuff bubbled up in less than 5 seconds, and then peeled off. Durocoat was about 8 weeks old.

A quick blast to make sure she was rough.



Finished. Yes, I worked around the sights, they now match the rest of the slide, if I ever have to take them off (Doubtful) Ill have to recoat.

CarbineReloaded  [Team Member]
+1 for the jasco.


I just stripped a shotgun that was duracoated 2-3 years ago, has been heated up pretty bad and abused in general.


I had to get the paint-on version, ACE didn't have the spray on. A quick layer on each peice and it bubbled within a few seconds, and wiped off.


Stripped the entire shotgun in less then 30 min.
domingjm2  [Member]
Would you recommend these methods for prepping before an initial duracoating? Or is residueless brake cleaner and boiling water sufficient?
I don't want to have to do all of this crap a second time.
FOXONE-AZ  [Team Member]
I use brake cleaner to degrease, no problems yet.
microsuck1  [Member]
If you are going to re-duracoat it, why not just spray over the old coat?
Gr8Santini  [Member]

Originally Posted By microsuck1:
If you are going to re-duracoat it, why not just spray over the old coat?

According to the folks at Lauer, once a coat of duracoat cures for 7 days or more, subsequent coats won't adhere very well.
Shadowstep  [Member]
I've been able to get duracoat to adhere fine over an existing.... just hand sanding with 220 grit works good. supposedly they are the same formula but the only thing I have problem recoating over is roughed up clear coat "after fully week(s) cured" but hand sand it down to color and there ya' go. I'm re-doing a customer shotgun that he did himself years ago with my Twilight Shadowflage along with a horribly horribly pitted and rusted rossi pump action .22 gallery gun that's geting a gun-blue duracoat/moly resin treatment "I prefer moly resin on interior and small/high wear parts". Both these guns are almost done btw.
Evil_ATF  [Team Member]
I followed the Duracoat instructions to the absolute letter when I did my M4gery.

A month later I cleaned the rifle with NC Brake Cleaner, as I do all of my guns.

The Duracoat literally fell off. Evil was most displeased.

Also, after a couple of mag dumps during a training course, the barrel was no longer Duracoated. Not sure when it happened but at the beginning of the day I had a woodland brown barrel.

At the end of the class it was "back in black".

Heat that sumbitch up and hit it with NC brake cleaner. The Duracoat will trip over itself trying to get off of your firearm.
FOXONE-AZ  [Team Member]
I had the same issues Evil, I redid an HK and a keltec for a friend, it never really dried and stayed gummy, tried a new batch, same techinque, worked great, never could figure out why.
Zhukov  [Team Member]
In regards to the Jasco paint and epoxy remover: I looked up the MSDS, and just as I suspected, it contains a large percentage of Methylene Chloride. MC can be found in other strippers, and there are several at Home Depot whose primary ingredient is MC (made by KleanStrip). Anything over 80% is good; be careful though - MC will burn the living crap out of your skin.
eastky454  [Member]
Thanks for the info. I have heard that some people have a hard time finding the Jasco "paint and epoxy" remover. In fact, the store I bought it at doesnt carry it anymore.

As for the skin burning....yep, it does burn like hell. I managed to get a little on my arm and immediately felt it. That stuff is NASTY!
nf9648  [Team Member]
Will the Jasco be safe for a Glock frame? I have a buddy who fubar'ed his frame with durabake (didnt get it hot enough or leave it in long enough, it is still tacky a month later and looks like ass from handling), can he apply the jasco and take it back down without ruining the polymer?
eastky454  [Member]
The can says not to use it on rubber, figerglass, plastic or synthetics.....so I would not use it on the glock frame. Your best bet would be to strip it down and blast the old durabake off of it.
jim2024bob  [Member]
What would be the best option for removing duracoat from an ACOG?
eastky454  [Member]
I would say the best option would be to scuff it up and reduracoat it the color you want. I definitely would not put Jasco all over it, as it would ruin the seals if it came in contact with them.
Wormydog1724  [Member]
I JUST discovered that CLP's Powder Blast Gun Cleaner and Gun Scrubber will also take duracoat off. Not what I wanted to happen but now I know for future I guess. They contain that MC stuff as stated before. The bad part was it was on my Remington R-15 but I am lucky it only took the duracoat off the barrel, I squirted it down into the barrel from the chamber and some got on the end of the barrel. But at least it didn't mess up the pretty camo job on the rest of the gun, which I am sure it would. Not too sure I like that camo anyways tho, too green. Thinking of taking it all off and having it dipped in Natural Gear camo. Undecided at the moment.
RaptorArms  [Team Member]
I had an ooopps! while puting a new build together. Didn't have any Jasco so I went with the lacquer thinner and some orange stripper shown. Paint was only a day old so not fully cured. Still took a lot of elbow grease with a wire brush, but it did come off.
Corbin_Das  [Member]
This has been a rather informative thread. Thanks guys.

While I'm not looking to remove my Duracoat finish, I AM wanting to know what lubricants, lead solvents, cleaners and general maintenence chemicals to avoid. Although not all my questions were answered, I'm still looking through the different threads the search function provided on Duracoat. Thanks for the info.


Corbin
MRW  [Team Member]
I put the spray can duracoat on an AR lower to try and match the color to an old Colt grey upper, but it still doesn't match.

Any tips on how to take the duracoat off and leave as much of the original adonizing intact as possible?

thanks
JonLSU  [Team Member]
Link

This guy used zip-strip to remove it from a scope.

What he said in case the post gets deleted later...
"The secret to my success...
http://www.starbronze.com/720.html
I stuffed the objective and ocular lens with cotton balls and went to town. The Zip Strip lifted the Dura Coat in about 2 minutes. I couldn't believe how fast and easy it was to clean the Dura Coat off of the scope. It even lifted the coating out of the knurled power adjustment ring. No pain in the ass elbow grease or going after it with a nylon brush. I was extremely careful to keep it off the lenses, and it worked like a charm. There was absolutely no damage or color change to the scope body. Now the scope looks like it just rolled off the line at USO."