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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:59:53 PM EDT
[#1]
If swapping out the gas block is not an option I would suggest sending the inside of the gas block. May require a little hammering on with a wood block or such. Always modify the cheapest part. I've encountered this with a build before. Not that uncommon.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 7:07:00 PM EDT
[#2]
You need to heat the block up much hotter, 400 or 450 degrees.
200 is pissing in the wind for the expansion you need. You should be able to easily tap it on then. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 9:30:44 PM EDT
[#3]
Just get a wheel cylinder hone ($15) from a full service auto parts house and open up the bore of the gas block.
It may be possible to get their automotive machinist (wizard in back) to do the same. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 10:08:27 PM EDT
[#4]
Poor mans hone would be a wood dowel, cut a slot in it . Stick some fine sand paper through it . Chuck it up in a drill and hone it out
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Posted: 3/31/2015 10:55:00 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just get a wheel cylinder hone ($15) from a full service auto parts house and open up the bore of the gas block. It may be possible to get their automotive machinist (wizard in back) to do the same. +1 |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 11:11:20 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just get a wheel cylinder hone ($15) from a full service auto parts house and open up the bore of the gas block. It may be possible to get their automotive machinist (wizard in back) to do the same. As luck would have it, my friend is an auto mechanic, so I'm sure he has such a hone. So, having these types of tolerance issues is not uncommon? |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 11:14:14 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As luck would have it, my friend is an auto mechanic, so I'm sure he has such a hone. So, having these types of tolerance issues is not uncommon? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just get a wheel cylinder hone ($15) from a full service auto parts house and open up the bore of the gas block. It may be possible to get their automotive machinist (wizard in back) to do the same. As luck would have it, my friend is an auto mechanic, so I'm sure he has such a hone. So, having these types of tolerance issues is not uncommon? It can happen. It's an easy fix, though. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 5:41:50 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As luck would have it, my friend is an auto mechanic, so I'm sure he has such a hone. So, having these types of tolerance issues is not uncommon? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just get a wheel cylinder hone ($15) from a full service auto parts house and open up the bore of the gas block. It may be possible to get their automotive machinist (wizard in back) to do the same. As luck would have it, my friend is an auto mechanic, so I'm sure he has such a hone. So, having these types of tolerance issues is not uncommon? It is not that common when the block is produced and sold from a reputable manufacturer. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 7:23:49 AM EDT
[#9]
The last YHM low profile I did was very tight going on. I opted to use a small hammer and tap it on vs opening up the gas block. I don't think it would even need the set screws at this point.
Tighter is better.  |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 10:05:06 AM EDT
[#10]
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Posted: 4/1/2015 10:22:54 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The last YHM low profile I did was very tight going on. I opted to use a small hammer and tap it on vs opening up the gas block. I don't think it would even need the set screws at this point. Tighter is better. I had a YHM low profile block that would NOT go on all the way. In fact, the block was damaged while drifting it off. I am going to contact YHM. I am confident they will take care of me. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 10:46:01 AM EDT
[#12]
Thanks all - I'm sending all of this valuable info along...
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Posted: 4/1/2015 11:03:13 PM EDT
[#13]
Rainier arms makes there low profile oversize.
Click link above. Mine slid right on, and when you tighten the screws it almost wraps it around the barrel. Zero issues, or leaks of any kind. |
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Posted: 4/3/2015 1:27:11 PM EDT
[#14]
I had to hammer one on once, now I wish I hadn't, never coming off. Dremel would be my only option.
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Posted: 4/3/2015 3:28:45 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It is not that common when the block is produced and sold from a reputable manufacturer. Agreed. Get a new gas block. -Stooxie |
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Posted: 4/4/2015 9:29:05 AM EDT
[#16]
Side question on hones: if I want to smooth out something with a 1.34" ID, can a 1-3/8" (1.375") ball-type hone be used or would it remove too much material? Is it simply a matter of how long you run it or does it take material off quickly? Would a 1-1/4" dowel with fine-grit sandpaper attached to a drill be a better option?
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Posted: 4/4/2015 10:35:11 AM EDT
[#17]
As luck would have it, my friend is an auto mechanic, so I'm sure he has such a hone. Probably not, unless he's old school. Complete wheel cylinders are dirt cheap these days (often under $10/ea); with rebuild kits only a couple dollars less and rebuild labor factored, it's far more economical for a customer to replace rather than rebuild. I have a couple of these hones, but I haven't used them in years. Side question on hones: if I want to smooth out something with a 1.34" ID, can a 1-3/8" (1.375") ball-type hone be used or would it remove too much material? Is it simply a matter of how long you run it or does it take material off quickly? Would a 1-1/4" dowel with fine-grit sandpaper attached to a drill be a better option? You do not want to use a ball hone unless you can fit the entire hone in the bore. If it is hanging out the ends, you'll end up with an inverted ellipsoid (think subtle hourglass). A reamer is best, but a stone hone is runner up, so long as the stones are good and you know how to use it. |
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Posted: 4/4/2015 11:51:29 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Side question on hones: if I want to smooth out something with a 1.34" ID, can a 1-3/8" (1.375") ball-type hone be used or would it remove too much material? Is it simply a matter of how long you run it or does it take material off quickly? Would a 1-1/4" dowel with fine-grit sandpaper attached to a drill be a better option? The original was called Flex Hone...I would not use this style for the AR gas block bore. Instead I would use a conventional 3-stone cylinder hone of the correct size. Use a thin cutting oil...make a pass....stop....clean....measure.....repeat as necessary. Use moderate RPM with a variable speed drill motor.....no wide open throttle. Thread hijack finished. |
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Posted: 4/4/2015 12:03:42 PM EDT
[#19]
With clamp on blocks I've had good luck with tapping them on sideways and then turning them when they are up against the shoulder.
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Posted: 4/4/2015 2:01:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
+1 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just get a wheel cylinder hone ($15) from a full service auto parts house and open up the bore of the gas block. It may be possible to get their automotive machinist (wizard in back) to do the same. +1 +2 I just took some 600 grit sandpaper and lightly sanded the inside of my YHM block. |
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Posted: 4/5/2015 12:56:58 PM EDT
[#21]
Same problem with my new gas block. Sand the inside of the gas block and get yourself a piece of wood and a hammer and start whackin
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Posted: 4/5/2015 8:01:19 PM EDT
[#22]
I have built many ARs and I am under the belief that gas blocks should not be altered since it needs a tight fit for gasses not to escape where they shouldn't. I have had to freeze my barrel over night and heat up my gas block and use a hammer and wood block before but it still went on fine with out needing to alter anything.
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Posted: 4/5/2015 8:31:00 PM EDT
[#23]
You should be able to get them on with beating on them, freezing, heating them.
Most clamping systems PULL DOWN enhancing the seal. If there's a tiny void, it will quickly fill with carbon. |
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