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Posted: 3/16/2015 4:32:59 AM EDT
Got a nice forged lower with the integral trigger guard. The shop that sold it to me (I only saw the right side of the lower before purchase) engraved all kinds of goofy shit on the left side. I like the shop, but the owner just loves engraving his logo on everything he sells and then color filling it. How do I remove the logo? Take after it with a dremel or sander? I plan to keracote it OD green afterwards, so I'm not too concerned about the anodizing.

TIA.
Link Posted: 3/16/2015 6:12:05 AM EDT
[#1]
Sanding it would probably be your best option.
Link Posted: 3/16/2015 6:38:19 AM EDT
[#2]
Looking it over, it looks like sanding may be the best option. Going to mask the serial number off and sand the rest. I'm either going to ruin it or get exactly what I want. Knowing my skill level with sander, I'm thinking the former! haha
Link Posted: 3/16/2015 6:51:12 AM EDT
[#3]
Bondo it and then sand smooth.
Link Posted: 3/16/2015 7:21:09 AM EDT
[#4]
Wonder how long bondo will stay in place in that application...worth a shot!
Link Posted: 3/16/2015 7:24:03 AM EDT
[#5]
Evercoat Metal 2 Metal — Metal Reinforced Filler

Aluminum filled body repair filler for metal surfaces. Has excellent corrosion resistance and superior adhesion to galvanized steel and aluminum. Will not sag. Best known as the "nearest thing to lead." Moisture proof. Rustproof. Easily sands to a fine featheredge. Metal-2-Metal™ liquid reactor included.


Link Posted: 3/16/2015 7:28:44 AM EDT
[#6]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Wonder how long bondo will stay in place in that application...worth a shot!

View Quote
Provided you thoroughly degrease and clean the surface it should bond well. I wouldn't use an electric sander if you choose to sand it. A small block and sanding by hand is your best bet if you choose this route. Then you will have more control over where and how much you are removing material.

 
Link Posted: 3/16/2015 3:03:00 PM EDT
[#7]
Get someone with a mill to machine it off if it's a roll mark.
Link Posted: 3/16/2015 10:52:11 PM EDT
[#8]
JB Weld with a little acetone to thin it. It will fill nicely and is easy to sand flat. Covers nicely with any painting finish. I've used it on a couple of lowers.
Link Posted: 3/17/2015 1:00:01 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
JB Weld with a little acetone to thin it. It will fill nicely and is easy to sand flat. Covers nicely with any painting finish. I've used it on a couple of lowers.
View Quote


I would think that should someone want to get a lower laser engraved that this would be a good option to fill the "stock" design and still hold up to being etched.
Link Posted: 3/18/2015 10:10:34 PM EDT
[#10]
please post a youtube vid, id love to buy a bunch of lowers and fill in the shit they come with.
Link Posted: 3/18/2015 10:20:59 PM EDT
[#11]
sell it and get a new one before you f-it up.
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 12:40:03 AM EDT
[#12]
If you have a lot of time you can fill and sand and re coat it according to some great posts.

Personally, I would just smile and nod and buy another receiver and move on.

Build this one, shoot it and on to the next.  Not much utility in trying to fix someone else's mistakes.
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 10:03:03 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
If you have a lot of time you can fill and sand and re coat it according to some great posts.

Personally, I would just smile and nod and buy another receiver and move on.

Build this one, shoot it and on to the next.  Not much utility in trying to fix someone else's mistakes.
View Quote


If you're gonna 'kote the rifle anyway it's not that much work but if your just trying to get rid of the engraving I agree with above.
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 10:15:37 AM EDT
[#14]
I would fill it before I sanded it off.  I doubt it would lesson the strength of the lower, but less does not always equal better.  I have used the watered down JBL method before, but not on a firearm.
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 11:27:48 AM EDT
[#15]
Just buy a talon mag well grip decal and it will cover it up.  It looks nice and it's what I use on my Anderson lowers.
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 3:24:12 PM EDT
[#16]
On the cosmetic laser engraving just sand and fill.  I am assuming from the wording there is depth to the logo, I had filled in a PSA logo with jb weld and sanded it down and cerakoted it and it turned out good but was a lot of work.
Link Posted: 3/27/2015 5:45:28 AM EDT
[#17]
your going to screw it up. sell it and buy something you like instead.
Link Posted: 3/27/2015 5:58:26 AM EDT
[#18]
Where did you get it ?
Link Posted: 3/27/2015 4:17:35 PM EDT
[#19]
wow. I cant belief some people say sand it. Assuming the engraving is deep that would look like crap.
Use a mill and engrave deeper and make it what you want.

Or send it to a cO2 laser engraver and get something to replace it. check out c4precisionengraving.
Link Posted: 3/27/2015 4:18:20 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
your going to screw it up. sell it and buy something you like instead.
View Quote


I need a dislike button for this.
How sad.
Link Posted: 3/28/2015 2:02:50 PM EDT
[#21]
Any sanding or milling will removing the anodizing... I would never do that.  I'd return it.  That would piss me off.
Link Posted: 3/30/2015 7:37:37 PM EDT
[#22]
Call Omni Arms LLC in Albuquerque, New Mexico.  They have some blank magwell lowers.  All of required info is by the Hammer/Trigger pins.  

Ask for Lee, Tell him you are an ARFcommer and MAHA Sent you.

MAHA
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